The Chiesa di San Bartolomeo, dedicated to Saint Bartholomew the Apostle, is a historic church located in the San Marco sestiere of Venice, Italy, near the bustling Rialto Bridge and the Fondaco dei Tedeschi. Positioned on the Campo San Bartolomeo, this small but culturally significant church is a testament to Venice’s mercantile and artistic heritage. Founded in the 9th century, rebuilt in the 12th century, and extensively remodeled in the 18th century, it blends Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque elements. Once a vibrant parish church, it was deconsecrated in the early 19th century during the Napoleonic era and now serves as a venue for musical performances, particularly by the Venice Music Project, and cultural events.
The Chiesa di San Bartolomeo traces its origins to 828, when it was
founded as one of Venice’s earliest churches, dedicated to Saint
Bartholomew, one of the twelve apostles, traditionally martyred by being
flayed alive. Its location near the Rialto, the commercial heart of
Venice, made it a focal point for the city’s German and foreign merchant
communities, particularly those associated with the nearby Fondaco dei
Tedeschi, a trading post for German traders established in the 13th
century.
The original church, likely a simple structure, was
rebuilt in 1170 following a fire, adopting a Romanesque style with
Gothic influences. This reconstruction was supported by the Badoer
family, a prominent Venetian patrician clan, reflecting the tradition of
noble patronage in Venetian ecclesiastical projects. By the 16th
century, San Bartolomeo served as the chapel for the Scuola dei Tedeschi
(German merchants’ confraternity), further cementing its role as a
cultural and commercial hub.
In the 18th century, the church
underwent significant remodeling under architect Giovanni Scalfarotto
(nephew of Alessandro Mauro), transforming its interior into a Baroque
masterpiece while retaining its Romanesque-Gothic façade. In 1723, a new
bell tower was added, designed by Scalfarotto, replacing an earlier
structure. The church’s prominence waned during the Napoleonic
suppressions of 1807–1810, when it was deconsecrated and repurposed as a
warehouse, a common fate for Venetian churches under French rule. It was
briefly restored to religious use in 1810 but permanently deconsecrated
thereafter, reflecting the decline of parish churches in central Venice.
Since 2013, the church has been managed by the Venice Music Project,
a cultural association that uses it as a venue for Baroque music
concerts performed on period instruments. This adaptive reuse has
revitalized San Bartolomeo as a cultural space, hosting performances and
exhibitions, such as those by the Fondazione Lucia de Conz, which
supports young artists. The church’s proximity to the Rialto Bridge and
its historical ties to the German merchant community make it a symbol of
Venice’s cosmopolitan past, while its current role underscores the
city’s ongoing cultural vibrancy.
San Bartolomeo’s architecture is a layered composition, reflecting its 9th-century origins, 12th-century reconstruction, and 18th-century Baroque remodeling. Its modest scale and strategic location near the Rialto Bridge integrate it into Venice’s dense urban fabric.
The façade, facing the Campo San Bartolomeo, is a restrained example
of Romanesque-Gothic architecture, with minimal decoration due to its
urban setting and later modifications. Key features include:
A
simple brick façade with a central portal framed by an ogival arch,
typical of Venetian Gothic, and a small rose window above, admitting
light into the nave.
Two lateral niches, possibly once containing
statues, now empty, adding a subtle decorative touch.
A white marble
band running horizontally across the façade, a remnant of the
12th-century design, which contrasts with the brickwork.
The bell
tower, rebuilt in 1723 by Giovanni Scalfarotto, is a modest structure
with a conical spire and small arched openings, blending into the
campo’s skyline.
The façade’s simplicity reflects its role as a
parish church serving merchants rather than a grandiose monument. Its
location, hemmed in by surrounding buildings, limits its external
prominence, but the campo’s lively atmosphere, with the iconic Carlo
Goldoni statue nearby, enhances its visibility.
The interior, remodeled by Scalfarotto in the 18th century, is a
compact yet elegant Baroque space, designed to maximize light and
ornamentation within a small footprint. Key architectural elements
include:
A single nave with a barrel-vaulted ceiling, creating a
unified and intimate space ideal for concerts.
Side chapels flanked
by Corinthian pilasters, adding verticality and grandeur, typical of
Baroque design.
A semicircular apse housing the high altar, framed by
a rococo canopy that serves as a focal point for the interior.
Stucco
work and gilded details, restored in the 20th century, enhancing the
Baroque aesthetic with a sense of opulence.
A black-and-white marble
floor, patterned in geometric designs, reflecting Venetian
craftsmanship.
The interior’s Baroque transformation, completed by
1723, contrasts with the exterior’s Romanesque-Gothic roots, creating a
dynamic interplay of styles. The church’s compact size, described as
“small but perfectly formed” by venice-tourism.com, makes it an ideal
venue for intimate musical performances, with excellent acoustics noted
by Venice Music Project reviews.
San Bartolomeo’s artistic significance lies in its collection of
17th- and 18th-century paintings and sculptures, which reflect its role
as a cultural hub for Venice’s merchant community. While some artworks
were removed after deconsecration, several masterpieces remain,
particularly those by Palma il Giovane and Sebastiano Ricci.
1.
Palma il Giovane’s Paintings
“Saint Bartholomew” (high altar, c.
1618): This altarpiece by Palma il Giovane, a leading Venetian
Mannerist, depicts the patron saint with his flayed skin, a vivid and
emotional portrayal characteristic of his style. Commissioned by the
Scuola dei Tedeschi, it underscores the church’s ties to the German
merchant community.
“The Miracle of Saint Bartholomew” (side chapel):
Another work by Palma, this painting illustrates a miracle attributed to
the saint, rendered with dynamic compositions and rich colors, typical
of late 16th-century Venetian art.
2. Sebastiano Ricci’s Painting
“Christ and the Woman Taken in Adultery” (presbytery, c. 1720s): This
work by Sebastiano Ricci, a Baroque master, showcases his dramatic use
of light and movement. The painting, noted in Lonely Planet, is a
highlight for its emotional intensity and vibrant palette, reflecting
the Baroque emphasis on narrative and spirituality.
3. Sculptural
Elements
High Altar Canopy: The rococo canopy, designed by
Scalfarotto, is adorned with cherubs and gilded stucco, creating a
theatrical focal point. Small statues, possibly by Giovanni Maria
Morlaiter, a Baroque sculptor, enhance the altar’s opulence.
Side
Chapel Statues: The chapels contain marble statues of saints and
allegorical figures, likely by 18th-century Venetian sculptors, adding
to the interior’s decorative richness.
4. Historical Artworks
(Lost or Relocated)
The church once housed additional paintings by
Palma il Giovane and other Venetian artists, some of which were moved to
the Gallerie dell’Accademia or other institutions after deconsecration.
The Scuola dei Tedeschi’s patronage ensured a rich artistic program,
though losses during the Napoleonic era diminished the collection.
A
17th-century organ, noted in historical records, was used for sacred
music but is no longer functional, replaced by modern staging for
concerts.
5. Modern Cultural Use
Since 2013, the Venice Music
Project has transformed the church into a performance space, with
Baroque music concerts featuring works by Vivaldi, Monteverdi, and
Scarlatti. The acoustics, enhanced by the nave’s barrel vault, make it
ideal for period-instrument performances, as noted in Tripadvisor
reviews. The church also hosts art exhibitions, such as those by the
Fondazione Lucia de Conz, showcasing young artists’ work.
San Bartolomeo embodies Venice’s mercantile and multicultural
heritage, particularly its ties to the German merchant community through
the Fondaco dei Tedeschi. Its location near the Rialto Bridge, a hub of
trade since the Middle Ages, underscores its role as a spiritual and
social center for merchants. The Scuola dei Tedeschi’s patronage linked
the church to Venice’s cosmopolitan trade networks, with German traders
commissioning artworks and participating in its confraternity.
The church’s deconsecration in the early 19th century reflects the
broader decline of Venice’s ecclesiastical institutions under Napoleonic
rule, yet its revival as a cultural venue demonstrates the city’s
adaptability. The Venice Music Project has restored its relevance,
making it a vibrant space for Baroque music and art exhibitions,
aligning with Venice’s legacy as a musical and artistic capital. The
presence of works by Palma il Giovane and Sebastiano Ricci connects San
Bartolomeo to the Venetian artistic tradition, while its
Romanesque-Gothic façade preserves a glimpse of the city’s medieval
past.
Located in the heart of San Marco, steps from the Rialto
Bridge and Piazza San Marco, San Bartolomeo offers a quieter alternative
to Venice’s tourist-heavy sites. Its lively Campo, with the Goldoni
statue and nearby Fondaco dei Tedeschi (now a luxury shopping center),
integrates it into the city’s daily life, making it a focal point for
both locals and visitors.
Location: Campo San Bartolomeo, San Marco, Venice, near the Rialto
Bridge. Accessible via the Rialto vaporetto stop (Lines 1, 2, N) or a
5-minute walk from Piazza San Marco.
Opening Hours: Deconsecrated,
the church is not open for regular visits but hosts concerts and
exhibitions organized by the Venice Music Project
(www.venicemusicproject.it). Check the website for event schedules,
typically evenings or weekends. Private tours may be arranged through
cultural organizations.
Admission: Free entry to the campo for
exterior viewing. Concert tickets range from €20–€40, depending on the
performance (check Venice Music Project for details). Donations support
maintenance and cultural programs.
Tips for Visitors:
Attend a
Venice Music Project concert to experience the church’s acoustics and
see the interior, particularly Palma il Giovane’s altarpiece and Ricci’s
painting.
View the Romanesque-Gothic façade from Campo San
Bartolomeo, ideally in the morning for softer light.
Combine with
visits to the Fondaco dei Tedeschi (for its rooftop terrace), Rialto
Bridge, or Piazza San Marco for a San Marco itinerary.
Explore nearby
cafés like Caffè Florian (0.3 mi) or shops on the Mercerie for a taste
of Venetian life.
Check www.venicemusicproject.it or local guides for
concert schedules and exhibition openings, as access is event-dependent.