Situated along the picturesque Fondamenta Zattere in Venice’s Dorsoduro district, overlooking the Giudecca Canal, Palazzo Clary-Ficquelmont, commonly referred to as Palazzo Clary, is a distinguished example of Late Renaissance Venetian architecture. Built in the 17th century, this elegant palace has a rich history tied to noble families, diplomatic functions, and Venice’s enduring cultural heritage. Its striking facade, historical significance as a French consulate, and proximity to landmarks like the Squero di San Trovaso and Gallerie dell’Accademia make it a notable yet understated presence in Venice’s architectural landscape. Today, it remains partly occupied by the Clary-Aldringen family, preserving its legacy as a private residence while embodying the city’s layered history.
Palazzo Clary was originally constructed in the late 17th century for
a Venetian noble family, though specific details about its initial
owners are sparse. Its location along the Zattere, a broad waterfront
promenade named for the wooden rafts (zattere) used to transport timber,
placed it in a prominent and prestigious area of Dorsoduro, ideal for
showcasing wealth and status. By the early 19th century, the palace came
into the possession of the Franco-Austrian counts of Ficquelmont, and
later their heirs, the Austrian princes of Clary-Aldringen, from whom it
derives its name. This noble family’s ownership marked a significant
chapter in the palace’s history, aligning it with European aristocracy.
A notable aspect of Palazzo Clary’s history is its role as the
French Consulate in Venice. From the post-World War II period until the
late 1990s, when the consulate was relocated to Trieste, the second
noble floor housed France’s diplomatic offices. During the Cold War,
this floor was home to the famous “red telephone line,” a direct
communication link between the United States and Russia, symbolizing the
palace’s brief but intriguing role in global geopolitics. A fire in the
1920s caused significant damage to the building, but careful restoration
preserved its original architectural forms, ensuring its Late
Renaissance character remained intact.
The palace is also linked
to the nearby San Trovaso parish, where a chapel in the San Trovaso
Church contains a burial place for a French princess of the Clary family
and a 15th-century marble relief, further embedding the palace in the
local cultural and religious fabric. Today, parts of the palace are
still occupied by Hieronymus, 9th Prince of Clary und Aldringen (born
1944), and his family, maintaining its status as a private residence.
Palazzo Clary exemplifies Late Renaissance Venetian architecture,
characterized by its balanced proportions, classical motifs, and
adaptation to the city’s aquatic environment. The palace’s design
reflects the Venetian tradition of prioritizing canal-facing facades to
display wealth and prestige, as canals were the primary thoroughfares of
the city.
Facade
The facade of Palazzo Clary, facing the
Giudecca Canal, is a striking composition spread over three floors plus
an attic, embodying the sobriety and elegance of Late Renaissance style.
Key features include:
Ground Floor: A large rectangular portal
serves as the main entrance, surmounted by two sculpted coats of arms,
likely representing the noble families associated with the palace. The
portal’s prominence reflects Venetian palazzi’s emphasis on water
access, as boats were the primary mode of arrival.
First Noble Floor:
This level features a central four-light window (a quadriforma), a
hallmark of Venetian Renaissance architecture, flanked by pairs of
single-lancet windows with round arches. The windows are framed by
Istrian stone, a durable material commonly used in Venice to withstand
the humid lagoon environment. A balustrade beneath the central window
adds a decorative flourish.
Second Noble Floor: Similar to the first,
this floor replicates the window arrangement but omits the balustrade
under the central four-light window. Instead, the window is delimited by
pilasters with Doric capitals, adding a classical touch that underscores
the Renaissance influence. This floor’s historical role as the French
Consulate adds to its significance.
Attic: The attic is marked by
small, symmetrically arranged square openings, bordered at the top by an
indented cornice that provides a clean, horizontal finish to the facade.
The cornice’s understated design aligns with the Late Renaissance
preference for restraint compared to the more ornate Gothic or Baroque
styles.
The facade’s overall composition is harmonious, with its
regular grid of windows and classical elements creating a sense of order
and grandeur. Its white Istrian stone contrasts beautifully with the
green waters of the Giudecca Canal, making it a recognizable landmark
along the Zattere. The palace’s depth and U-shaped plan, with long
lateral wings extending toward a rear garden, distinguish it from
narrower Venetian palazzi, allowing for spacious interiors and a private
courtyard.
Interior and Rear
While detailed information about
the interior is limited due to the palace’s private status, it is known
that the piano nobile (noble floor) features grand salons typical of
Venetian palazzi, designed for social and ceremonial functions. The
second noble floor, historically the consulate, likely contains rooms
with high ceilings and decorative elements such as frescoes or stucco
work, though these may have been affected by the 1920s fire and
subsequent restoration.
The rear facade overlooks a small,
enclosed garden, a rare feature in Venice where space is at a premium.
The garden is bordered by walls, providing privacy and a tranquil
retreat from the bustling Zattere. The palace’s depth and garden suggest
it was designed to accommodate both public display and private family
life, a common trait in Venetian palazzi that served as both residences
and business hubs.
Additional Structures
The palace is
sometimes referred to as Palazzo Michiel, though documentation for this
name is lacking. Structures near the Rio degli Ognissanti, adjacent to
the palace, may be remnants of a casinò (a small pleasure house used for
social gatherings), a common feature in Venetian noble estates. However,
their exact connection to Palazzo Clary remains unclear.
Construction and Materials
Like most Venetian palazzi, Palazzo Clary
was built with techniques adapted to the city’s lagoon environment. Its
foundations rest on wooden piles driven into the muddy subsoil, a method
that has allowed Venice’s buildings to endure for centuries. The
facade’s Istrian stone, prized for its durability and resistance to
saltwater, is a standard material in Venetian architecture, ensuring the
palace’s longevity despite the humid climate. The use of brick for
internal walls and wooden beams for floors and ceilings, typical of
Venetian construction, would have been employed, though the 1920s fire
may have necessitated repairs to these elements.
The palace’s
large windows and open design maximize natural light and ventilation,
critical in Venice’s damp climate. The inclusion of coats of arms and
classical pilasters reflects the Renaissance emphasis on heraldry and
antiquity, signaling the owners’ status and cultural sophistication.
Palazzo Clary’s significance lies in its blend of architectural
beauty, historical roles, and enduring family ownership. Its Late
Renaissance facade is a standout along the Zattere, contributing to
Dorsoduro’s reputation as a district of artistic and architectural
treasures. Its association with the Clary-Aldringen family connects it
to European nobility, while its use as the French Consulate during the
20th century adds a layer of geopolitical intrigue, particularly the
Cold War-era red telephone line.
The palace’s survival through
the 1920s fire and its restoration highlight Venice’s commitment to
preserving its architectural heritage, even for private residences. Its
proximity to the San Trovaso Church, where the Clary family’s chapel
resides, ties it to the spiritual life of the community, reinforcing the
interconnectedness of Venice’s secular and religious spheres.
Palazzo Clary is a private residence and not open to the public,
limiting direct access to its interiors. However, its canal-facing
facade can be admired from the Fondamenta Zattere, a popular promenade
for visitors and locals alike. The palace’s location, just 40 meters
from the Zattere vaporetto stop (served by Lines 2, 5.1, 5.2, 6, 10, and
16), makes it easily accessible for those exploring Dorsoduro. It is
approximately 1.7 kilometers from Santa Lucia railway station, a
20-minute walk or short vaporetto ride.
The palace’s exterior is
best viewed in the morning or late afternoon when the light enhances the
Istrian stone’s glow against the Giudecca Canal. Visitors can combine a
stop at Palazzo Clary with nearby attractions, such as:
Squero di
San Trovaso (100 meters east): Venice’s historic gondola boatyard,
offering a glimpse into traditional craftsmanship.
Gallerie
dell’Accademia (310 meters east): A renowned museum of pre-19th-century
Venetian art.
Peggy Guggenheim Collection (470 meters northeast): A
modern art museum in a former palazzo.
Teatro La Fenice (1 km
northeast): Venice’s iconic opera house.
The Zattere’s cafes and
gelaterias, such as Gelateria Nico, provide spots to relax while taking
in the palace’s facade and the canal’s scenic beauty.
Palazzo Clary is less documented in tourist literature than grander
palazzi like Ca’ d’Oro or the Doge’s Palace, but it is cherished by
architecture enthusiasts for its refined Late Renaissance design. Its
understated elegance contrasts with the more ornate Gothic or Baroque
facades along the Grand Canal, offering a quieter but no less compelling
example of Venetian architecture. Online sources, such as Wikipedia and
Italyscapes, highlight its historical roles and aesthetic appeal, though
visitor reviews are scarce due to its private status.
In the
context of Venice’s ongoing challenges—overtourism, acqua alta (high
tides), and preservation costs—Palazzo Clary’s continued use as a family
residence underscores the city’s living history. Its survival through
fire and restoration reflects the resilience of Venetian architecture,
while its Cold War diplomatic role adds a unique footnote to its story.