The Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, often referred to simply as Ca’ Contarini del Bovolo, is a historic palace in Venice, Italy, located in the San Marco sestiere at Corte dei Risi, 4303, near Campo Manin. Renowned for its iconic Scala Contarini del Bovolo (Bovolo Spiral Staircase), a masterpiece of late Gothic architecture, the palace is one of Venice’s most distinctive landmarks. Built in the late 15th century for the Contarini family, it blends Venetian Gothic, Renaissance, and Byzantine influences, reflecting the city’s architectural diversity. Today, it is managed by the IRE Venezia (Istituzioni di Ricovero e di Educazione) and serves as a cultural site, open to the public for tours of the staircase, exhibitions, and panoramic views.
The Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo was constructed in the late 15th
century, likely between 1490 and 1499, for the Contarini family, one of
Venice’s oldest and most illustrious patrician dynasties, claiming
descent from Roman consuls and producing eight doges. The palace was
commissioned by Pietro Contarini, a member of the Contarini “del Bovolo”
branch, named after the spiral staircase (bovolo means “snail” or
“spiral” in Venetian dialect). The staircase, a later addition
attributed to Giovanni Candi, was built around 1499 to enhance the
palace’s prestige and functionality, connecting the residential floors
and showcasing the family’s wealth.
Originally a modest Gothic
structure, the palace was expanded to include the staircase and a
loggia, reflecting the Contarini’s desire to compete with Venice’s
architectural elite. The site, tucked away in a narrow corte off Campo
Manin, was constrained by surrounding buildings, making the external
staircase a practical and visually striking solution. The Contarini
maintained ownership until the 19th century, when the palace passed to
the Pizzamano family and later to Ernst Arndt, a German malt merchant
who used it as a residence and hospice.
By the 20th century, the
palace had fallen into disrepair, exacerbated by Venice’s environmental
challenges, such as flooding and humidity. In 1852, the staircase’s base
was raised to combat acqua alta (high tide flooding). Restoration
efforts began in the late 19th century, with significant interventions
in 2015–2016 by the Fondazione Venezia, which opened the palace to the
public as a cultural venue. Today, it hosts exhibitions, concerts, and
events, managed by IRE Venezia, and is celebrated for its architectural
innovation and panoramic views from the staircase’s belvedere.
The Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo is located in the heart of the San
Marco sestiere, a central and tourist-heavy district. Situated at Corte
dei Risi, 4303, it is hidden in a maze of narrow alleys near Campo
Manin, a lively square named after Daniele Manin, a 19th-century
Venetian patriot. Its proximity to major landmarks like Piazza San Marco
(0.5 km), Teatro La Fenice (0.3 km), Chiesa di San Moisè (0.4 km), and
Scuola di Santa Maria degli Albanesi (0.5 km) makes it a convenient stop
on a San Marco itinerary.
The nearest vaporetto stop is Rialto
(Lines 1, 2, and N), approximately 400 meters away, reachable via a
5-minute walk through Campo San Luca and Calle dei Fuseri.
Alternatively, the Sant’Angelo stop (Line 1) is 500 meters away, near
Campo Manin. The palace’s secluded location requires navigation through
Venice’s labyrinthine streets, but clear signage from Campo Manin aids
visitors. The Santa Lucia railway station is 1.5 km away, accessible by
vaporetto or a 20-minute walk.
The palace is open to the public
daily from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM (last entry at 5:30 PM), with admission
fees of approximately €8 for adults, €6 for students and seniors, and
free for children under 12 (prices as of 2025, subject to change).
Tickets include access to the Scala Contarini, the Tintoretto Room (an
exhibition space), and the belvedere’s panoramic views. Guided tours,
available in English and Italian, provide historical context and access
to additional areas, such as temporary exhibitions. The staircase
involves climbing 80 steps, which may challenge visitors with mobility
issues, and reservations are recommended during peak seasons via the
official website (www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com).
The Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo is a unique blend of Venetian
Gothic, early Renaissance, and Byzantine influences, with the Scala
Contarini as its defining feature. The palace’s constrained site in
a dense urban context necessitated innovative design, particularly
the external staircase, which is both functional and a symbol of
prestige.
Exterior
The main façade, facing Corte dei Risi,
is modest and partially obscured by surrounding buildings,
reflecting the palace’s integration into Venice’s tight urban
fabric. The façade is Gothic in style, with pointed arches and
polychrome brickwork, but its most striking element is the Scala
Contarini, an external spiral staircase rising 26 meters within a
cylindrical tower. The staircase, attributed to Giovanni Candi,
features:
80 Stone Steps: Arranged in a continuous spiral,
supported by a series of arches and columns in Istrian stone.
Loggias: Five levels of open arcades, with alternating red Verona
marble and white stone columns, creating a rhythmic interplay of
light and shadow.
Byzantine Influence: The staircase’s circular
form and decorative motifs echo Eastern architectural traditions,
possibly inspired by Venetian trade with Constantinople.
Belvedere: A domed platform at the top, offering 360-degree views of
Venice’s rooftops, including the Campanile di San Marco and the
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute.
The staircase’s design,
with its delicate arches and spiral ascent, contrasts with the
palace’s solid Gothic base, blending late Gothic exuberance with
Renaissance clarity. The courtyard, accessible from the corte,
features a wellhead and remnants of Gothic tracery, adding to the
palace’s historical charm.
Interior
The palace’s interior
is less accessible, as much of it is used for administrative
purposes or exhibitions, but key areas are open to visitors:
Tintoretto Room: Located on the second piano nobile, this former
noble hall is named for a supposed Tintoretto painting (now
disputed) and serves as an exhibition space for contemporary art or
historical displays. The room features 16th-century stucco work and
wooden ceilings with traces of original polychromy.
Piano Nobile:
The main floor, reached via the staircase, includes a series of
rooms with restored frescoes and stucco decorations, reflecting
Renaissance and early Baroque tastes.
Upper Floors: Smaller
rooms, once residential, are occasionally used for events or
storage, with minimal public access.
The interior’s restrained
decoration contrasts with the opulence of Palazzo Basadonna’s
neoclassical frescoes or the theatricality of San Moisè’s Baroque
interior, emphasizing the staircase as the palace’s primary artistic
statement.
While the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo is primarily celebrated for
its architecture, it contains modest artistic elements:
Frescoes
and Stucco: The Tintoretto Room and piano nobile feature 16th-century
fresco fragments and stucco moldings, depicting mythological or
allegorical scenes, restored in the 2015–2016 campaign.
Exhibition
Space: The Tintoretto Room hosts rotating displays, such as photography,
contemporary art, or historical artifacts related to Venetian culture,
curated by IRE Venezia.
Sculptural Details: The staircase’s columns
and arches include carved capitals with floral and geometric motifs,
showcasing Gothic craftsmanship.
The palace’s artistic significance
lies in its architectural innovation rather than a major art collection,
unlike the Tiepolo masterpieces in San Apostoli or the lost Tintoretto
frescoes of Palazzo Gussoni. The staircase itself, with its sculptural
quality, is considered a work of art, praised by scholars like John
Ruskin for its “exquisite delicacy.”
The Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo embodies Venice’s late 15th-century
cultural dynamism, a period when the city balanced Gothic traditions
with Renaissance ideals and Byzantine influences. The Contarini family’s
patronage reflects their status as cultural and political leaders, akin
to the Fini at San Moisè or the Gussoni at their palazzo. The staircase,
a rare external feature in Venice, symbolizes the family’s ambition to
stand out in a city of grand palazzi, paralleling the Scuola degli
Albanesi’s reliefs as a marker of identity.
As a cultural venue
today, the palace hosts events like concerts, lectures, and art
exhibitions, contributing to Venice’s vibrant arts scene, similar to the
educational role of Palazzo Basadonna’s Liceo Artistico. Its restoration
and public opening in 2016 underscore Venice’s commitment to preserving
its heritage, a theme shared with conservation efforts at San Raffaele
Arcangelo and San Apostoli. The palace’s appearance in popular culture,
including films and literature, enhances its allure, with the staircase
often featured as a quintessential Venetian backdrop.
The Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo is a popular attraction, praised for
its unique staircase and breathtaking views. Tripadvisor reviews
describe it as a “must-see hidden gem,” with visitors raving about the
“spiral staircase’s beauty” and the “panoramic vista” from the
belvedere, which includes landmarks like the Basilica di San Marco and
the Grand Canal. The climb, while manageable for most, requires moderate
fitness, and the loggias offer rest points with photo opportunities.
Some reviewers note the limited interior access and small exhibition
space as drawbacks, but the €8 ticket is considered good value.
The palace’s secluded location adds to its charm, offering a respite
from San Marco’s crowds, similar to the tranquil setting of San Raffaele
Arcangelo. Guided tours, available for an additional fee, provide
insights into the Contarini family and the staircase’s construction,
enhancing the experience for history buffs. The nearby Campo Manin
offers cafés like Bar Al Bacaro (0.2 km), and dining options include
Osteria alle Testiere (0.6 km) for Venetian cuisine.
For a family
of four seeking affordable three-star accommodation in San Marco,
options include Hotel Al Codega (0.3 km) or Hotel Antico Capon (0.5 km),
bookable via Booking.com or Tripadvisor. The area’s proximity to
vaporetto stops and major sites ensures convenience, though visitors
should plan for the staircase’s limited capacity during peak seasons.