Palazzo Contarini Michiel, Venice

The Palazzo Contarini Michiel is a historic Venetian palace located in the Dorsoduro sestiere, overlooking the Grand Canal between the Ca’ Rezzonico and Palazzetto Stern. This late Renaissance palace, originally built by the prominent Contarini family, is a striking example of Venetian architecture, blending historical beauty with luxurious interiors.

 

History

The Palazzo Contarini Michiel was constructed in the late Renaissance period by the Contarini family, one of Venice’s most influential patrician families, known for producing eight doges and owning numerous palazzi across the city. The exact date of its construction is not well-documented, but it likely dates to the 16th century, reflecting the architectural trends of the time. The palace later passed to the Michiel family, though the reasons and timing of this transfer remain unclear. It is believed that the palace originally consisted of two separate buildings, which were unified in the 18th century, possibly under the direction of Teresa Corner Duodo, a member of another prominent Venetian family.

In subsequent centuries, the palace changed hands multiple times. It was owned by the Donà family before being acquired by the sculptor Valentino Besarel, who undertook a meticulous restoration. In the early 20th century, the palace was influenced by the grandfather of the current owner, a diplomat who lived in Tokyo during the 1920s and 1930s with his Venetian wife. His collection of Asian art, combined with European antiquities, shaped the palace’s distinctive eclectic and oriental aesthetic. The property underwent a complete renovation in 2009, preserving its historical character while introducing modern amenities.

Today, the Palazzo Contarini Michiel remains in private family ownership and is used as a prestigious rental venue for events such as weddings, conferences, private dining, and gala dinners. Its location on the Grand Canal and its luxurious interiors make it a sought-after destination for high-end gatherings.

 

Architecture

The Palazzo Contarini Michiel is an asymmetrical early Renaissance palace with notable neorococo stucco work from the 20th century, attributed to Vittorio Trentin (1920). Its architectural design reflects the transition from Gothic to Renaissance styles, with a facade that is both elegant and distinctive due to its composite nature.

Exterior and Facade: The palace’s principal facade, which faces the Grand Canal, is composed of two visibly distinct sections, a result of its origins as two separate buildings. These sections lack architectural continuity but share stylistic elements, particularly in their fenestration. The left section features a trifora (a three-light window) offset to the right, while the right section, which is lower, has a quadrifora (a four-light window) offset to the left. These polifore are among the most notable features of the facade, showcasing the Renaissance preference for symmetrical window arrangements inspired by classical architecture. The facade’s asymmetry and the juxtaposition of the trifora and quadrifora create a dynamic visual effect, setting the palace apart from more uniform Grand Canal palazzi. The ground floor includes openings with round arches and a central portal providing direct access to the canal, typical of Venetian palaces designed for water-based entry. The rear of the palace features an expansive private garden, a rare and luxurious feature in densely built Venice.
Interior: The interiors of the Palazzo Contarini Michiel are characterized by their opulence and eclectic style. The left section of the palace contains rooms decorated with neorococo stucco work from the early 20th century, adding a layer of ornate detail to the Renaissance framework. The main salon, or salone, is particularly impressive, featuring a large balcony overlooking the Grand Canal, which offers spectacular views of Venice’s iconic waterway. A third-floor terrace provides additional outdoor space, enhancing the palace’s appeal for events. The interiors are furnished with a blend of European antiquities and Asian art, reflecting the influence of the owner’s grandfather, who collected pieces during his time in Tokyo. This combination creates a unique atmosphere that balances Venetian grandeur with oriental elegance. Each room is designed to maximize light and space, with large, sun-filled areas suitable for both formal and intimate gatherings.
Structural Layout: The palace’s layout is typical of Venetian palazzi, with a central portego (a grand hallway) leading to various rooms. The unification of the two original buildings in the 18th century likely involved reconfiguring the interior to create a cohesive space, though the facade retains its dual character. The presence of a private garden at the rear adds to the palace’s prestige, as such spaces were historically reserved for the wealthiest families.

 

Artistic Elements

While the Palazzo Contarini Michiel is not primarily known for its art collection in the same way as museums like the Gallerie dell’Accademia, its interiors are enriched by a curated selection of artworks and decorative elements:

Asian Art Collection: The palace houses an outstanding collection of Asian art, amassed by the current owner’s grandfather during his diplomatic tenure in Tokyo. These pieces, which may include ceramics, textiles, or sculptures, contribute to the palace’s distinctive oriental ambiance. Specific details about the collection are not widely documented, but it is described as a highlight of the interior decor.
European Antiquities: The palace also contains valuable European antiquities, likely including furniture, tapestries, and decorative objects from the Renaissance and later periods. These items complement the Asian art, creating a harmonious blend of Eastern and Western aesthetics.
Neorococo Stucco Work: The neorococo stucco decorations, added in 1920 by Vittorio Trentin, are a significant artistic feature of the left section of the palace. These intricate plasterworks, characterized by their elaborate curves and floral motifs, add a layer of 18th-century-inspired elegance to the interiors, contrasting with the Renaissance architectural framework.
Unlike other Venetian palazzi, such as the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, which is famous for its spiral staircase, the Palazzo Contarini Michiel does not appear to have specific artworks by renowned artists like Tintoretto or Tiepolo. Its artistic value lies in its curated decor and the atmospheric interplay of its collections.

 

Current Use and Accessibility

The Palazzo Contarini Michiel is not open to the public as a museum or tourist attraction but operates as a prestigious rental venue. It is marketed as a luxurious setting for events, offering a rare combination of historical beauty and modern comfort. The palace’s large rooms, spectacular views, and elegant interiors make it ideal for weddings, conferences, private dining, gala dinners, and other high-profile gatherings. Its location, slightly off the main tourist routes but close to key attractions like Ca’ Rezzonico, ensures a balance of privacy and accessibility.

During the Venice Biennale, the palace occasionally hosts art exhibitions, such as the “Highway to Hell” exhibition by Chinese artist Jiang Heng, which was open to the public for free until November of an unspecified year (likely 2023, based on available sources). These events provide a rare opportunity to visit the palace, as it is otherwise closed to the general public. The palace also contains a hotel, as noted in Tripadvisor reviews, which is ranked moderately among Venice’s accommodations (e.g., 324 out of 366 hotels on the Italian Tripadvisor page). Guests of the hotel or event attendees can experience the palace’s grandeur, including its balcony and terrace overlooking the Grand Canal.

Location: The palace is situated in Dorsoduro, near Ca’ Rezzonico and Palazzetto Stern, with direct access to the Grand Canal. It is approximately 0.9 km (0.6 miles) from Venice’s city center, making it easily reachable by foot or vaporetto (water bus). Nearby attractions include Ca’ Zenobio degli Armeni (0.2 km), the Venice Jazz Club (0.4 km), and the Chiesa di San Nicolò dei Mendicoli (0.3 km). Restaurants such as Riviera, La Tecia Vegana, and Osteria Ca’ del Vento are conveniently located nearby.
Visiting: For those interested in visiting, checking the Venice Biennale schedule for collateral events is advisable, as these may provide free access to the palace. Otherwise, renting the venue for an event or staying at the hotel are the primary ways to experience the interior. The palace’s website (www.palazzocontarinimichiel.com) offers booking information for events.

 

Cultural and Historical Significance

The Palazzo Contarini Michiel is a testament to the enduring legacy of the Contarini family and the evolution of Venetian architecture. Its construction during the late Renaissance reflects the city’s shift toward classical influences, while its later modifications, including the 18th-century unification and 20th-century neorococo stucco work, illustrate Venice’s ability to adapt historical structures to new purposes. The palace’s eclectic decor, blending Asian and European elements, underscores Venice’s historical role as a crossroads of trade and culture, connecting East and West.

The palace’s ownership history, from the Contarini and Michiel families to the Donà, Besarel, and the current family, highlights the social and economic dynamics of Venetian aristocracy. The involvement of the diplomat-owner’s grandfather in shaping the palace’s aesthetic also connects it to broader 20th-century global cultural exchanges, particularly between Venice and Asia.

While not as famous as the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo or the Palazzo Ducale, the Palazzo Contarini Michiel contributes to Venice’s rich architectural tapestry. Its use as a venue for modern events and exhibitions ensures that it remains a living part of the city’s cultural landscape, rather than a static monument.