The Palazzi Contarini degli Scrigni e Corfù, located in Venice’s Dorsoduro sestiere on the Grand Canal, form a unique architectural complex comprising two distinct palaces owned by the noble Contarini family. Positioned between Palazzo Mocenigo Gambara and the Rio di San Trovaso, these palaces—Palazzo Contarini Corfù (15th century, Venetian Gothic) and Palazzo Contarini degli Scrigni (1609–1616, Renaissance)—reflect nearly two centuries of Venetian architectural evolution. Now known collectively as Palazzo Rocca Contarini Corfù degli Scrigni, the complex is a private residence owned by the Rocca family, celebrated for its historical significance, stylistic contrast, and well-preserved interiors.
The Palazzi Contarini degli Scrigni e Corfù trace their origins to
the powerful Contarini family, one of Venice’s oldest and most
influential patrician clans, which produced eight doges and owned
numerous palaces across the city. The family’s wealth derived from
trade, diplomacy, and landholdings, including the villa of Piazzola sul
Brenta, where their opulence earned the “degli Scrigni” (of the treasure
chests) moniker, alluding to their vast riches and the literal scrigni
(chests) in their estates. The “Corfù” name reflects their trade
connections with the Ionian island, a Venetian stronghold until 1797.
Palazzo Contarini Corfù was built in the late 14th or early 15th
century as a Gothic residence, typical of Venice’s mercantile elite. It
served as a family stronghold, housing generations of Contarinis engaged
in trade and governance. In the 17th century, it was internally
remodeled, possibly by Francesco Smeraldi, a Palladian follower, to
align with contemporary tastes, though its Gothic facade was preserved.
Palazzo Contarini degli Scrigni, constructed between 1609 and 1616,
was an extension commissioned to unify the complex. Attributed to
Vincenzo Scamozzi, a prominent Renaissance architect and pupil of
Palladio, the project responded to the Contarini’s desire for a modern
residence that harmonized with the older Corfù palace. Scamozzi, who had
previously worked for Francesco Contarini in France, designed a
Renaissance facade and integrated the interiors to create a seamless
transition between the two buildings, despite their stylistic
differences. The Contarini’s ownership continued until 1838, when
Girolamo Contarini bequeathed his art collection to Venice’s Gallerie
dell’Accademia and the palaces were sold.
In 1838, the complex
passed to Countess Matilde Berthold, who restored its interiors to their
“original magnificence,” ensuring the Contarini crest remained prominent
as a nod to its heritage. In the late 19th century, American art dealer
Peabody Russel purchased the palaces, intending to demolish them for a
grander structure, a plan thwarted by financial or regulatory
constraints, as noted in a letter by Henry James. By 1890, the Rocca
family acquired the complex, and in 1900, Count Riccardo Rocca, a
distinguished lawyer, was granted a hereditary noble title by King
Umberto I, cementing the palace’s current name, Palazzo Rocca. The Rocca
family has since maintained it as a private residence, occasionally
opening it for events.
The Palazzi Contarini degli Scrigni e Corfù are located at Dorsoduro
1057–1057 A-E, Calle Contarini Corfù, 30123 Venezia, on the Grand Canal
between the Accademia Bridge and Ca’ Rezzonico, where the Rio di San
Trovaso meets the canal. This prime position in Dorsoduro, a vibrant
sestiere known for its artistic and bohemian character, places the
complex near landmarks like the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Gallerie
dell’Accademia, and Ca’ Rezzonico. The Gothic facade of Palazzo Corfù
and the Renaissance facade of Palazzo degli Scrigni create a striking
contrast against the canal’s shimmering waters.
As a private
residence, the palace is closed to the public except for special
occasions, such as weddings, private events, or guided tours arranged
through organizations like Best Venice Guides. Visitors can contact
guides like Federica Gullino (federica.gullino@gmail.com) for private
tours, which may include access to the piano nobile and courtyard,
subject to the Rocca family’s approval. The facade is best viewed from a
vaporetto (Line 1, Accademia or Ca’ Rezzonico stops) or gondola,
particularly at sunset when the light enhances its details. The land
entrance, via Calle Contarini Corfù, leads to a 14th-century courtyard,
but access is restricted by a gate.
The surrounding Dorsoduro
sestiere offers a rich cultural context, with nearby cafés like Bar Alla
Toletta and attractions like Campo Santa Margherita, a 10-minute walk
away. The palace’s location at the Rio di San Trovaso, a hub for gondola
repairs, adds to its picturesque setting, making it a highlight of Grand
Canal tours.
The Palazzi Contarini degli Scrigni e Corfù form a single complex with two distinct architectural identities, unified internally to create a cohesive residence. Their contrasting facades—Gothic for Corfù, Renaissance for degli Scrigni—showcase Venice’s architectural evolution, while their interiors reflect careful integration.
Facade: The right-hand palace, Corfù, is a classic Venetian Gothic
structure, built in the late 14th or early 15th century. Its facade
features pointed arches, delicate tracery, and a polifora (multi-light
window) on the piano nobile, typical of Gothic palaces like Ca’ d’Oro.
The ground floor has a water gate for canal access, while the upper
floors are clad in light-colored stone, with single monofore (windows)
flanking the polifora. Faint traces of 14th-century frescoes, once
common on Venetian facades, survive on the courtyard side, evoking the
city’s colorful past. The facade was reinforced in 1777 by Tommaso
Scalfarotto with a stone embankment to address structural cracks, as
documented in Contarini family archives.
Interior: Internally
remodeled in the 17th century, possibly by Francesco Smeraldi, the
palace retains Gothic elements like ribbed vaulting in secondary spaces.
The portego (central hall) connects seamlessly with degli Scrigni, with
matching floor heights and Venetian terrazzo flooring. The 18th- and
19th-century restorations added Baroque and Neoclassical touches, such
as stucco and marble detailing.
Facade: The left-hand palace, degli Scrigni, designed by Vincenzo
Scamozzi, is a Renaissance masterpiece, completed between 1609 and 1616.
Its three-story facade is clad in Istrian stone, with a rusticated
(bugnato) ground floor pierced by a central water portal. The two piani
nobili feature five arched monofore per floor, each with projecting
balustrades and separated by paired Corinthian pilasters, echoing Jacopo
Sansovino’s classical vocabulary. A central elevated section houses a
small serliana (a Palladian window with a central arch flanked by
rectangular openings), a nod to Andrea Palladio’s influence. The facade
is crowned by a robust cornice with corbels and mascarons, and a rooftop
belvedere tower marks the internal oval staircase, a Scamozzi signature.
Critics like Diedo praise the facade’s “correct proportions” and
“graceful Ionic and Corinthian orders,” though some note the windows’
excessive slenderness as a minor flaw.
Interior: The piano nobile is
accessed via a monumental oval staircase, leading to a grand portego
with 18th-century furniture, pink marmorino walls, and Venetian terrazzo
floors partially covered by rugs. The interiors, restored by Matilde
Berthold in the 19th century, feature a library once adorned with
paintings by Pietro Liberi and Padovanino, though these may have been
part of Girolamo Contarini’s bequest to the Gallerie dell’Accademia. The
seamless integration with Corfù ensures consistent ceiling heights and
room alignments, creating the illusion of a single palace.
The land entrance via Calle Contarini Corfù opens to a 14th-century
courtyard, partially paved around a central well and partly a garden
with weathered marble statues. The courtyard’s Gothic facade retains
faded frescoes, a rare survival of Venetian exterior decoration. The
ground-floor androne (hall) once housed gondoliers’ quarters, reflecting
the Contarini’s reliance on private water transport. The courtyard and
staircase provide a dramatic transition from the medieval to the
Renaissance interiors, described as a “leap through centuries” by Best
Venice Guides.
The complex’s trapezoidal plan, incorporating two
small internal courts, maximizes space on the constrained canal-front
site. Scamozzi’s design skillfully navigates these limitations,
preserving the Gothic facade while introducing Renaissance symmetry,
influencing later architects like Baldassarre Longhena.
The Palazzi Contarini degli Scrigni e Corfù have undergone several
restorations:
17th Century: Internal remodeling of Palazzo Corfù,
possibly by Francesco Smeraldi, modernized its interiors while retaining
the Gothic facade.
1777: Tommaso Scalfarotto reinforced the Grand
Canal facade with a stone embankment to address structural instability,
as noted in archival records.
Mid-19th Century: Countess Matilde
Berthold restored the interiors, enhancing their opulence and preserving
the Contarini crest on walls and furniture, a gesture of historical
respect. Her work ensured the palace’s suitability for “princes and
foreigners,” as contemporary accounts attest.
Late 19th Century:
After Peabody Russel’s aborted demolition plan, the Rocca family’s
acquisition in 1890 led to further maintenance, preserving the complex’s
integrity.
The palace remains in “excellent condition,” with no major
structural changes since the 19th century. Ongoing maintenance by the
Rocca family addresses Venice’s environmental challenges, such as
flooding and humidity, though specific recent projects are undocumented.
The complex’s private status and careful stewardship have protected it
from the “elegant decay” affecting other Venetian palaces, like Palazzo
Belloni Battagia.
The Palazzi Contarini degli Scrigni e Corfù are a testament to the
Contarini family’s enduring influence and Venice’s architectural
diversity. The Contarini, with their diplomatic and mercantile prowess,
embodied Venice’s global reach, as seen in their Corfù trade and
Piazzola estate. The “degli Scrigni” name, tied to their wealth, and the
“Corfù” moniker, linked to Mediterranean commerce, underscore their
economic and cultural clout.
Architecturally, the complex is
significant for its stylistic duality. Palazzo Corfù’s Gothic facade
preserves Venice’s medieval aesthetic, while Palazzo degli Scrigni’s
Renaissance design, attributed to Scamozzi, introduced a classical
vocabulary that influenced Venetian Baroque, notably Longhena’s work.
Scamozzi’s integration of the two palaces, maintaining the older facade
while unifying the interiors, showcases innovative urban planning,
adapting to Venice’s constrained sites.
The palace’s later
history reflects Venice’s transition from a republic to a cultural
destination. Matilde Berthold’s restoration and the Rocca family’s
stewardship highlight the city’s commitment to preserving its heritage,
even as ownership shifted from patricians to new elites. Girolamo
Contarini’s 1838 bequest of artworks to the Gallerie dell’Accademia,
including works by Venetian masters, underscores the family’s cultural
patronage.
Unlike Palazzo Barbaro, a 19th-century artistic hub,
or Casino Venier, an intimate salon, the Palazzi Contarini are
significant for their architectural synthesis and historical continuity.
Their private status limits their public role, but their inclusion in
UNESCO’s Venice and its Lagoon World Heritage Site and Tripadvisor’s top
10% of attractions (ranked #681 of 987) reflects their niche appeal.
Visiting the Palazzi Contarini degli Scrigni e Corfù is primarily an
exterior experience due to their private status, but guided tours offer
rare interior access. The Grand Canal facade, with Corfù’s Gothic arches
and degli Scrigni’s classical pilasters, is best viewed from a vaporetto
or gondola, particularly during a Grand Canal tour (e.g., Viator’s
“Venice: Grand Canal by Gondola with Live Commentary,” $41.64 per
adult). The Rio di San Trovaso junction provides a picturesque angle,
with gondolas adding to the scene.
Private tours, arranged
through Best Venice Guides or similar operators, allow entry to the
courtyard, piano nobile, and portego, offering a “leap through
centuries” from the Gothic courtyard to the Renaissance interiors. These
tours, often costing €100–€200 for small groups, may include a spritz
and cicchetti tasting, as noted by Federica Gullino, enhancing the
experience with Venetian hospitality. The portego’s 18th-century
furniture, pink marmorino walls, and terrazzo floors are highlights,
though photography may be restricted.
The visit typically lasts
under an hour, as Tripadvisor reviews note, with one reviewer praising
the “fascinating contrast” of the facades but lamenting limited access.
The surrounding Dorsoduro sestiere enriches the experience, with nearby
attractions like Ca’ Rezzonico’s 18th-century museum or the Peggy
Guggenheim’s modern art collection. Local eateries, such as Osteria Al
Squero, offer cicchetti with canal views, complementing the palace’s
ambiance.