Ca’ Faccanon, also known as Palazzo Giustinian Faccanon, is a notable Gothic palace in Venice, Italy, located in the San Marco sestiere, overlooking the Rio della Fava and near the Grand Canal. This historic building reflects Venice’s rich architectural heritage and its layered social and cultural history.
Ca’ Faccanon’s history is tied to two prominent Venetian families:
the Giustinian and the Faccanon. The palace was originally constructed
in the 15th century (circa 1400s) by the Giustinian family, one of
Venice’s most influential noble clans, known for producing doges,
procurators, and merchants. The Giustinian name is attached to multiple
palaces in Venice, reflecting their wealth and status during the
Republic of Venice (697–1797). The exact date of construction is not
well-documented, but its Gothic style places it in the period when
Venetian Gothic architecture flourished, blending Byzantine, Islamic,
and Western influences.
By the 17th century, the palace came into
the possession of Ascanio Giustinian, son of Girolamo Giustinian, a
Procurator of San Marco, one of the Republic’s highest offices. After
the fall of the Republic in 1797, when Napoleon’s forces dissolved
Venice’s independence, the palace passed to the Faccanon family, from
whom it takes its current name. The Faccanon family is less documented,
but their ownership marks a shift in the palace’s use from aristocratic
residence to more utilitarian purposes.
In the 19th century, Ca’
Faccanon adapted to Venice’s changing fortunes. From 1872, it served as
the city’s General Post Office, a role it held for several decades,
reflecting Venice’s integration into the Kingdom of Italy (1866) and the
need for modern infrastructure. Later, from the early 20th century until
the early 1980s, it housed the offices of Il Gazzettino, Venice’s
prominent newspaper, underscoring its role as a hub for communication.
These uses highlight Venice’s transition from a maritime republic to a
modern tourist and cultural center, with historic buildings repurposed
for civic functions.
Since the late 20th century, Ca’ Faccanon
has been used for various purposes, including as an office space and an
exhibition venue. Notably, in 2019, it hosted AFRICOBRA: Nation Time, a
collateral event of the Venice Biennale, showcasing works by African
American artists. Today, it reportedly serves again as a post office for
Venice’s historic center, maintaining its legacy of public service while
preserving its architectural grandeur.
Ca’ Faccanon is a fine example of Venetian Gothic architecture, a
style that emerged in the 14th–15th centuries and is characterized by
its ornate, airy aesthetic, influenced by Venice’s trade connections
with the East. The palace’s design reflects both functionality (as a
canal-side residence) and the Giustinian family’s desire to display
wealth and prestige.
Facade: The principal facade faces the Rio
della Fava, a narrow canal that connects to the Grand Canal near the
Rialto Bridge. The facade is asymmetrical yet harmonious, typical of
Venetian Gothic palaces constrained by tight urban plots. Key features
include:
Ground Floor: A central water entrance, essential for
gondola access, allows direct entry from the canal. This portal is
simple but functional, designed for loading goods and welcoming guests.
First Piano Nobile: Above the water gate, a four-light (quadrifora)
window with a balcony dominates, framed by pointed arches and delicate
tracery. This window illuminates the main reception hall, a space for
entertaining and showcasing wealth.
Second Piano Nobile: The second
floor features a hexaphora (six-light window) with quatrefoil tracery,
inspired by the Doge’s Palace (Palazzo Ducale). This elaborate window,
paired with a single ogival window with openwork inserts, draws the eye
and reflects Gothic intricacy. The quatrefoils—four-leafed motifs—are a
hallmark of Venetian Gothic, symbolizing elegance and cosmopolitan
influences.
Top Floor: A small three-column loggia, likely used for
ventilation and light, adds a delicate touch to the upper facade. This
loggia is less common in Venetian palaces, making it a distinctive
feature.
Materials: The facade uses brick with Istrian stone accents,
typical of Venice, where wood was scarce, and stone was prized for
durability against the humid lagoon environment. Traces of
Renaissance-era modifications, such as a balustrade with sculptures,
suggest later updates.
Interior: While public access to the
interior is limited, historical accounts describe a “vast piano nobile”
with soaring ceilings, typical of aristocratic residences designed for
grand gatherings. Baroque stucco work survives in parts of the second
piano nobile, indicating 17th- or 18th-century renovations. The interior
likely retains some original Gothic elements, such as wooden ceilings or
stone arches, though modern uses (post office, offices) may have altered
layouts.
Adjacent Structure: Ca’ Faccanon is connected to an almost
identical neighboring building, possibly another Giustinian property,
linked by a later addition. This twin structure creates a unified
aesthetic along the canal, doubling the palace’s visual impact.
Calle-Side Facade: The landward side, facing a narrow alley (calle),
shows signs of alteration, with rectangular windows on the first piano
nobile that are more recent than the Gothic canal facade. A large
stairway, possibly added later, enhances access from the calle,
reflecting practical adaptations.
The palace’s location near the
Rialto Bridge, Venice’s commercial heart, underscores its historical
role as a merchant family’s base, with easy access to markets and trade
routes. Its design balances beauty and utility, embodying Venice’s ethos
of living on water.
Ca’ Faccanon is significant for several reasons, reflecting Venice’s
architectural, social, and economic history:
Venetian Gothic Legacy:
The palace is celebrated as one of the city’s better examples of
Venetian Gothic architecture, alongside landmarks like Ca’ d’Oro and the
Doge’s Palace. Its hexaphora and quatrefoil details showcase the style’s
elegance, born from Venice’s trade with Byzantium and the Islamic world.
This style, with its pointed arches and intricate tracery, distinguishes
Venice from other Italian cities like Florence or Rome.
Giustinian
Influence: The Giustinian family’s ownership ties Ca’ Faccanon to
Venice’s ruling elite. The family’s wealth came from trade (silk,
spices) and maritime ventures, and their palaces symbolized their
dominance. Ascanio Giustinian’s association in the 17th century links
the palace to the Republic’s later years, when Venice remained
culturally vibrant despite economic decline.
Post-Republic
Adaptability: The palace’s transformation into a post office and
newspaper office reflects Venice’s resilience after 1797, when the
Republic’s fall forced the city to redefine itself. Unlike some palaces
that became museums or hotels, Ca’ Faccanon’s civic roles highlight its
integration into modern Venetian life.
Cultural Venue: Its use for
exhibitions, like the 2019 AFRICOBRA show, demonstrates Venice’s role as
a global art hub, especially during the Biennale. The palace’s 9,000
square feet of exhibition space, adorned with Venetian plaster and
Murano chandeliers, offers a historic backdrop for contemporary art,
bridging past and present.
Everyday Venetian Life: As a working post
office today, Ca’ Faccanon serves locals and visitors, grounding its
grandeur in daily utility. This dual identity—aristocratic palace and
public space—mirrors Venice’s blend of opulence and pragmatism.
Ca’ Faccanon remains a functional building rather than a primary
tourist attraction, which preserves its authenticity but limits public
access:
Current Use: The palace houses Venice’s central post
office, a practical role that connects it to the community. Occasional
exhibitions, as seen in 2019, open parts of the interior, but these are
temporary and not guaranteed.
Location: Situated in San Marco, near
the Rialto Bridge and St. Mark’s Square, Ca’ Faccanon is easily spotted
from the Rio della Fava or during a gondola ride. Its proximity to major
landmarks makes it accessible, yet its canal-side setting feels quieter
than the bustling Grand Canal.
Visitor Access: The exterior is freely
viewable from the canal or nearby bridges, ideal for photography,
especially in soft morning or evening light when the Gothic windows
gleam. The interior is generally closed to tourists unless an event is
scheduled. The post office on the ground floor may allow limited entry
for services, but it’s not a museum-like experience.
Cultural Events:
The 2019 AFRICOBRA exhibition, curated by Jeffreen M. Hayes, showcased
works by Black Arts Movement artists like Wadsworth Jarrell and Barbara
Jones-Hogu, drawing global attention. Such events are rare but highlight
the palace’s potential as a cultural space. Visitors hoping for similar
exhibitions should check Biennale schedules or local art listings.
Critiques and Challenges: Reviews from past exhibitions, like a 2018 Van
Gogh multimedia show, noted high entry costs and a lack of historical
context about the Giustinian family, suggesting the palace’s owners
prioritize commercial use over education. The building’s maintenance,
while adequate, faces Venice’s universal threats: rising tides,
subsidence, and humidity, which erode Gothic stonework.
Getting There: From St. Mark’s Square, walk toward the Rialto Bridge
via Calle Larga San Marco, then turn toward Rio della Fava (5–10
minutes). Vaporetto stops at Rialto (lines 1, 2) are closest. Look for
the palace’s Gothic facade along the canal.
Best Time to Visit: Early
morning or late afternoon avoids crowds and enhances views of the
facade. Check tide levels, as acqua alta (high tide) can flood nearby
streets in fall/winter.
Cost: Free to view externally. Post office
services are standard, but exhibition tickets (when applicable) may cost
€10–€20, based on past events.
Tips: Photograph from a gondola or the
canal’s opposite bank for the best angle. Combine with visits to nearby
Ca’ d’Oro or Rialto Market for a Gothic-themed itinerary. Respect the
building’s working status by avoiding loitering at the entrance.
Ca’ Faccanon’s significance lies in its architectural beauty and
adaptability, but it lacks the fame or documented drama of palaces like
Ca’ Foscari or Ca’ Rezzonico. Its Giustinian origins are prestigious,
yet the family’s many properties dilute its uniqueness—other Giustinian
palaces, like Ca’ Giustinian near San Marco, share similar traits. The
Faccanon name, tied to post-Republic ownership, is less evocative, and
sparse records about this family limit deeper historical insight.
The palace’s modern roles—post office, former newspaper office,
occasional gallery—suggest a pragmatic rather than romantic fate. Unlike
Ca’ d’Oro, a museum showcasing Gothic splendor, Ca’ Faccanon’s
inaccessibility to tourists restricts its cultural impact. Its use for
art exhibitions is promising but sporadic, and past shows have been
criticized for prioritizing profit over substance. Claims of it being a
“must-see” may overstate its allure compared to Venice’s iconic
landmarks.
Venice’s environmental challenges also loom large.
Rising sea levels and frequent flooding threaten low-lying palaces like
Ca’ Faccanon, especially its ground-floor water entrance. Without
sustained conservation, its Gothic details risk erosion, a fate shared
by many Venetian structures. The palace’s private ownership complicates
public investment in its preservation, raising questions about who bears
responsibility for such heritage.