Contarini Palace of the Figures, Venice

 

The Palazzo Contarini delle Figure, a Renaissance-style palace in the San Marco sestiere of Venice, Italy, is a distinguished yet lesser-known gem along the Grand Canal. Positioned between the Palazzo Mocenigo Ca’ Vecchia and Palazzo Erizzo Nani Mocenigo, and across from Palazzo Civran Grimani, it is celebrated for its elegant marble facade and historical significance. Commissioned by Jacopo Contarini, a procurator of San Marco, and constructed between 1504 and 1546, the palace replaced an earlier Gothic structure and reflects the transition from Gothic to Renaissance architecture in Venice. Its name, “delle Figure,” derives from the decorative figures or reliefs on its facade, though these have largely faded. Today, the palace is privately owned, subdivided into apartments, and in a somewhat poor state of conservation, limiting public access.

 

Historical Background

The Palazzo Contarini delle Figure’s history is tied to the Contarini family, one of Venice’s most illustrious noble families, which produced eight doges and held significant political and cultural influence during the Republic of Venice (697–1797).

Pre-1504: Gothic Origins
The site originally housed a Gothic-style palace owned by the Contarini family, typical of Venice’s 14th- and 15th-century merchant residences. By the early 16th century, this structure was outdated and likely in disrepair, prompting Jacopo Contarini, a procurator of San Marco and a prominent figure in Venetian governance, to commission a new palace befitting his status.

1504–1546: Renaissance Reconstruction
Construction of the current palace began in 1504 and was completed by 1546, a relatively long period reflecting the complexity of building on Venice’s lagoon and the Contarini family’s ambition for a grand residence. The design is attributed to one of several renowned architects of the period—Antonio Abbondi (Scarpagnino), Mauro Codussi, Antonio Lombardo (son of Pietro Lombardo), or Giorgio Spavento—though no definitive evidence confirms the architect. The new palace embraced the Renaissance style, characterized by classical symmetry and proportion, marking a departure from the Gothic floral style of earlier Venetian palazzi like Ca’ d’Oro. The facade’s marble cladding and decorative elements, possibly including sculptural figures, gave rise to the name “delle Figure.”

1713: Art Collection Donation
By 1713, Bertucci Contarini, the last male heir of this branch, donated the palace’s significant art collection to the Ducal Palace (Doge’s Palace), a gesture reflecting the family’s civic pride and the collection’s cultural value. The donation included paintings and sculptures, though specific works are not well-documented, leaving the palace’s interiors less adorned.

19th Century: Guiccioli Ownership and Byron Connection
In the 19th century, the palace was acquired by Marchese Alessandro Guiccioli, whose wife, Teresa Guiccioli, became famous for her romantic affair with the poet Lord Byron between 1819 and 1823. Byron, a frequent visitor to Venice, reportedly spent time at the palace, adding a literary dimension to its history. The Guiccioli ownership coincided with a period of decline, as Venice’s economic fortunes waned under Austrian rule, and the palace began to suffer from neglect.
20th Century to Present: Subdivision and Private Ownership
By the 20th century, the Palazzo Contarini delle Figure was subdivided into private apartments, a common fate for many Venetian palazzi as maintenance costs soared and noble families dispersed. Its current state of conservation is described as “somewhat poor,” with faded frescoes and structural wear due to humidity and saltwater exposure. The palace remains privately owned, limiting public access, though its Grand Canal facade is a highlight of canal tours. Recent conservation efforts have been minimal, and the building’s future depends on private investment or municipal intervention to address ongoing deterioration.

 

Architectural Features

The Palazzo Contarini delle Figure is a quintessential example of Venetian Renaissance architecture, distinguished by its marble facade and classical design elements, which marked a shift from the Gothic style prevalent in earlier Venetian palazzi.

Exterior
Facade: The Grand Canal facade, clad in Istrian stone and marble, is attributed to one of Venice’s leading Renaissance architects (Scarpagnino, Codussi, Lombardo, or Spavento). It features three levels, with a balanced and symmetrical composition:
Ground Floor: Includes a water gate for gondola access, flanked by small rectangular windows, typical of Venetian palazzi designed for canal-based commerce and transportation.
First Piano Nobile: The main noble floor showcases a series of mullioned windows, likely a quadrifora (four-light window) or pentafora (five-light window), with rounded arches and slender columns, reflecting Renaissance classicism. Decorative reliefs or “figures” (possibly mythological or allegorical), from which the palace derives its name, once adorned this level, though most have faded or been lost to weathering.
Second Piano Nobile: Similar to the first, with slightly smaller windows, maintaining the facade’s symmetry. The upper floor may include single-lancet windows or a smaller mullioned set, crowned by a dentilled cornice.
Decorative Elements: The facade’s marble cladding, a luxurious choice, was originally embellished with frescoes or sculptural figures, though these have largely deteriorated due to Venice’s humid climate. Traces of decorative elements may remain, but they are not well-documented in public sources. The facade’s elegance lies in its clean lines and classical proportions, contrasting with the ornate Gothic style of nearby palazzi like Palazzo Pisani Moretta.
Location and Context: Positioned at San Marco 3627, the palace is strategically located near the Rialto Bridge (800 meters north) and Piazza San Marco (600 meters south), placing it in Venice’s commercial and political heart. Its Grand Canal setting, opposite Palazzo Civran Grimani, makes it a prominent feature of canal tours, visible from vaporetti or gondolas.

Interior
Layout: The palace follows the traditional Venetian palazzo plan, with a ground-floor androne (entrance hall) for canal access, a central portego (reception hall) on the first piano nobile, and additional rooms for living and entertaining. The portego, likely the grandest space, would have been used for receptions and displayed the Contarini art collection until 1713.
Decor: Historical records suggest the interior was once richly decorated with frescoes, stucco work, and paintings, though most of these were donated or sold over time. The 1713 donation to the Ducal Palace included significant artworks, leaving the interior less ornate today. The current private apartments likely retain some Renaissance or later modifications, such as Murano glass chandeliers or marble fireplaces, but detailed descriptions are scarce due to restricted access.
Structural Notes: Built on wooden piles driven into the lagoon bed, the palace’s foundation reflects Venetian engineering. Its long construction period (1504–1546) ensured robust stability, though modern challenges like humidity and flooding threaten its conservation. The subdivision into apartments has altered the original layout, with modern utilities likely introduced.

 

Cultural and Historical Significance

The Palazzo Contarini delle Figure is a cultural and historical landmark that encapsulates Venice’s Renaissance aspirations and noble heritage:

Contarini Legacy: The Contarini family, with eight doges and numerous palazzi (e.g., Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, Palazzo Contarini Fasan), was a pillar of Venetian society. The palace reflects their wealth and influence, particularly through Jacopo Contarini’s role as a procurator of San Marco, a prestigious position overseeing the city’s religious and civic affairs.
Renaissance Transition: The palace’s design marks a pivotal shift from Venetian Gothic to Renaissance architecture, influenced by architects like Codussi, who introduced classical elements to Venice. Its marble facade and possible sculptural figures align with the period’s embrace of humanism and classical revival, seen in contemporaries like Ca’ d’Oro and Palazzo Vendramin Calergi.
Byron Connection: The 19th-century ownership by Alessandro and Teresa Guiccioli ties the palace to Romantic-era literature. Lord Byron’s affair with Teresa, documented in his letters, adds a layer of cultural intrigue, making the palace a point of interest for literary scholars.
Artistic Heritage: The donation of the Contarini art collection to the Ducal Palace in 1713 underscores the palace’s role as a repository of Venetian art. While specific works are not listed, they likely included paintings or sculptures by Renaissance masters, reflecting the family’s patronage.
Hidden Gem: Unlike more accessible palazzi like Ca’ Rezzonico or Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, the Palazzo Contarini delle Figure’s private status and poor conservation make it a lesser-known site. Its Grand Canal facade, however, remains a highlight of Venice’s architectural panorama, admired by those exploring the canal.

 

Practical Information for Visitors

Location: San Marco 3627, 30124 Venice, Italy. On the Grand Canal, between Palazzo Mocenigo Ca’ Vecchia and Palazzo Erizzo Nani Mocenigo, opposite Palazzo Civran Grimani. GPS: 45.4352°N, 12.3325°E. Approximately 800 meters north of Piazza San Marco and 600 meters south of the Rialto Bridge.

Access:
By Vaporetto: Take Line 1 or 2 to Sant’Angelo (2-minute walk) or San Samuele (3-minute walk). From Piazzale Roma or Santa Lucia Station, it’s a 15-minute vaporetto ride or 20-minute walk.
By Foot: From Piazza San Marco, walk north via Calle Larga XXII Marzo to Campo Santo Stefano, then west to Campo Sant’Angelo (7–10 minutes). From Rialto Bridge, head south through Campo San Polo to Campo Sant’Angelo (10–12 minutes).
By Gondola/Water Taxi: Gondola tours along the Grand Canal offer prime views of the facade (€80–€120 for 30 minutes). Water taxis can stop near Sant’Angelo (€60–€100 from Piazzale Roma).

Visiting:
Access: The palace is privately owned and subdivided into apartments, making it inaccessible to the public except for its exterior. The facade can be admired from the Grand Canal via vaporetto, gondola, or water taxi, or from the opposite bank near Palazzo Civran Grimani.
Cost: Free to view from the canal or street. Vaporetto tickets cost €9.50 (single ride) or €25 (24-hour pass). Guided canal tours (e.g., Viator, €30–€60) may highlight the palace’s facade.
Best Times: Early morning (7:00–9:00 AM) or sunset (6:00–8:00 PM) for optimal light and fewer canal crowds. Spring (April–May) or fall (September–October) offer mild weather and reduced tourism.

Tips for Visitors:
Photography: Capture the facade from a vaporetto (Line 1, Sant’Angelo stop) or gondola for the best angles. The opposite bank near Palazzo Civran Grimani offers a clear view. Use a zoom lens for faded decorative details.

Accessibility: The Grand Canal and nearby fondamente are wheelchair-accessible via vaporetto ramps (Sant’Angelo or San Samuele). The palace’s interior is not accessible, and the campo near Sant’Angelo has uneven paving.

Nearby Attractions:
Campo Santo Stefano (3-minute walk): Lively square with cafes and the Church of Santo Stefano.
Church of San Vidal (3-minute walk): Baroque church with Carpaccio’s altarpiece and Interpreti Veneziani concerts.
Accademia Bridge (5-minute walk): Iconic wooden bridge with Grand Canal views.
Gallerie dell’Accademia (7-minute walk): Renaissance art by Titian, Tintoretto, and Veronese.
Peggy Guggenheim Collection (10-minute walk): Modern art in a canal-side palace.
Dining Nearby: Try Osteria al Bacareto (San Marco), Ristorante Agli Alboretti (Dorsoduro), or Cafe Florian (Piazza San Marco) for Venetian cuisine within a 5–10-minute walk.
Tours: Grand Canal boat tours (e.g., GetYourGuide, €30–€60) highlight the palace’s facade. San Marco walking tours (e.g., Viator, €40–€80) may include exterior commentary. Audio guides (e.g., Rick Steves app) provide context for self-guided exploration.
Contact: No direct contact for the palace due to private ownership. For tourism inquiries, contact Venezia Unica (+39 041 2424, info@veneziaunica.it, www.veneziaunica.it).

 

Modern Context and Preservation

The Palazzo Contarini delle Figure faces challenges typical of Venetian palazzi, balancing historical significance with modern constraints:

Preservation: The palace’s “somewhat poor state of conservation” reflects challenges from humidity, saltwater erosion, and neglect. The faded frescoes and decorative figures highlight the need for restoration, but private ownership and subdivision into apartments complicate efforts. The MOSE flood barrier (operational since 2020) mitigates acqua alta, but long-term climate change threatens the foundation.
Private Ownership: As a residential building, the palace is closed to the public, limiting its role in Venice’s tourism economy. Potential restoration by owners or intervention by organizations like Save Venice could revive its interiors, but no plans are currently documented.
Tourism Context: Venice’s 30 million annual visitors strain historic sites, but the palace’s inaccessibility keeps it off the tourist radar, preserving its quiet dignity. Its Grand Canal facade remains a highlight of boat tours, contributing to Venice’s UNESCO World Heritage aesthetic.
Cultural Legacy: The Byron connection and the Contarini family’s historical prominence make the palace a point of interest for literary and architectural scholars. Its Renaissance design influences discussions on Venice’s architectural evolution, alongside palazzi like Ca’ Vendramin Calergi.