The Palazzo Bernardo Nani Lucheschi, also known as Palazzo Nani Bernardo, is a Renaissance-style palace situated on the Grand Canal in the Dorsoduro sestiere of Venice, Italy. Constructed in the mid-16th century, this architectural gem was designed by the renowned sculptor and architect Alessandro Vittoria for the patrician Bernardo family. Nestled between the Palazzo Giustinian Bernardo and the grander Ca’ Rezzonico, the palazzo is a testament to Venice’s aristocratic heritage, blending Renaissance and early Baroque elements with a rich history of art, culture, and noble life. Today, it remains privately owned by the Lucheschi counts, serving as a venue for exclusive events, private tours, and luxury apartments, while preserving its historical charm and one of Venice’s largest private gardens.
The Palazzo Nani Bernardo’s history reflects the evolution of
Venetian society and architecture:
Origins (Mid-16th Century):
The palazzo was commissioned by the Bernardo family, a prominent
Venetian patrician clan, and built around 1550 on the site of an earlier
structure. Designed by Alessandro Vittoria, a leading figure in Venetian
Renaissance art, the palazzo was intended as a grand residence
showcasing the family’s wealth and status.
Original Orientation:
Uniquely, the palazzo’s original main facade faced what is now the site
of Ca’ Rezzonico, then a garden. This facade was once covered entirely
in vibrant frescoes, fragments of which remain visible on the building’s
sides, attesting to the opulence of Renaissance Venetian decoration. The
current Grand Canal facade was added later in the 17th century as the
urban landscape evolved.
Lucheschi Ownership (19th Century Onward):
The palazzo eventually passed to the Lucheschi family, whose
descendants, including Countess Elisabetta Lucheschi Czarnocki, still
own and reside in the property. Around 200 years ago, the Lucheschi
ancestors expanded the palazzo by demolishing adjacent houses to create
a large Italian-style garden, a rare feature in Venice. This addition
gave the palazzo its current harmonious layout and enhanced its
prestige.
Cultural and Social Role: Over the centuries, the palazzo
has hosted notable figures and events, maintaining its status as a hub
of aristocratic life. Its well-preserved interiors and art collections
have made it a venue for cultural exhibitions, such as the “Storie di
Moda” fashion exhibition in 2017 and contemporary art shows during the
Venice Biennale.
Environmental Challenges: The palazzo’s garden
suffered significant damage during the historic acqua alta (high tide)
of November 12, 2019, which uprooted trees and threatened plants with
saltwater intrusion. A fundraising campaign was launched to restore the
garden, highlighting its cultural and ecological value. The survival of
a pomegranate tree and a carved phoenix relief were seen as symbols of
resilience.
The Palazzo Nani Bernardo is a striking example of Venetian
architecture from the transition between Renaissance and early Baroque
periods, characterized by its compact, regular facade and elegant
proportions:
Grand Canal Facade: The current main facade, added
in the 17th century, overlooks the Grand Canal and is notable for its
“extraordinary compactness and regularity.” It is divided into four
levels: a ground floor with a water portal, two piani nobili (noble
floors) with central loggias, and an attic. The white marble facade is
adorned with two coats of arms at the second-floor level, emphasizing
the Bernardo family’s heritage. The facade’s design adheres to Venetian
architectural principles, with a central axis defined by the water
portal and balconies, creating a balanced and harmonious appearance.
Original Facade: The original 16th-century facade, now a lateral side
facing Ca’ Rezzonico, was once the palazzo’s primary front and was
entirely frescoed, a common practice in Renaissance Venice. Though most
frescoes have faded, small fragments remain, offering a glimpse of the
palazzo’s former vibrancy. This facade originally overlooked a garden,
which was later replaced by Ca’ Rezzonico.
Interior Layout: The
palazzo follows the traditional Venetian palazzo structure, with a grand
entrance from the Grand Canal leading to a large main staircase that
accesses the two piani nobili. The second piano nobile features a long
central hall (portego), ideal for receptions, flanked by five charming
side rooms. These spaces are sumptuously furnished with original period
pieces, frescoes, and artworks, preserving the aristocratic ambiance of
18th-century Venice. The interior decoration, attributed to Vittoria,
includes well-preserved stuccoes and frescoes, particularly in the
portego of the first floor.
Italian Garden: Added in the late 18th
century during Napoleon’s era, the garden is one of Venice’s largest
private green spaces, a rare and precious feature in a city dominated by
water. It features centuries-old plants, including the tallest palm tree
in Venice and a 200-year-old wisteria, and is enclosed by the palazzo’s
rear facade, which has a multi-lancet window overlooking the greenery.
The garden’s elegant design, with evergreen shrubs and seasonal blooms,
has been featured in films like Casanova (2005) with Heath Ledger and
Jeremy Irons. Despite damage from the 2019 acqua alta, restoration
efforts aim to return it to its former splendor.
Structural Details:
The palazzo’s white marble facade, central loggias, and water gate
reflect Venetian Renaissance ideals of symmetry and grandeur. The
presence of two coats of arms and the robust entrance staircase add to
its noble character. The building’s massiveness, particularly when
viewed from the Grand Canal, contrasts with the lighter, more ornate
facades of neighboring palazzi, giving it a distinctive presence.
The Palazzo Nani Bernardo is a cultural treasure that embodies
Venice’s Renaissance heritage and aristocratic legacy:
Artistic
Legacy: Designed by Alessandro Vittoria, a master of Venetian sculpture
and architecture, the palazzo is a showcase of Renaissance artistry. Its
frescoed facade and interior decorations, including stuccoes and
paintings, reflect the wealth and cultural sophistication of the
Bernardo family. The palazzo’s art collection, though partially
dispersed over time, once included significant works, and today it hosts
temporary exhibitions, such as those by contemporary artists like Thomas
Braida during the Venice Biennale.
Aristocratic Life: The palazzo
offers a rare glimpse into the lifestyle of Venetian nobility. Its
preserved furnishings, porcelain, silverware, and artworks evoke the
romantic elegance of 18th-century Venice, as noted by visitors who
describe it as a “hidden treasure.” The involvement of Countess
Elisabetta Lucheschi Czarnocki, who personally guides tours and hosts
events, adds a personal connection to the palazzo’s history.
Cinematic and Literary Connections: The palazzo’s garden and interiors
have appeared in films, notably Casanova (2005), enhancing its cultural
visibility. Its role as a venue for fashion and art exhibitions, such as
“Storie di Moda” in 2017, underscores its place in Venice’s contemporary
cultural scene.
Environmental and Community Role: The garden’s
survival through environmental challenges, such as the 2019 acqua alta,
and the subsequent restoration efforts highlight the palazzo’s role in
preserving Venice’s ecological and cultural heritage. The fundraising
campaign to restore the garden reflects community engagement and the
palazzo’s significance as a shared legacy.
Today, the Palazzo Nani Bernardo is a multifunctional space,
balancing its role as a private residence with public access through
tours, events, and rentals:
Private Tours: The first two floors
are open for private guided tours, often led by Countess Elisabetta
Lucheschi Czarnocki and her cousin. These tours showcase the palazzo’s
original furnishings, frescoes, and artworks, starting in the Italian
garden and concluding in the dining area with cocktails and homemade
desserts. Visitors praise the warm, personal hospitality, describing the
experience as feeling like “personal guests” in a “magical” setting.
Tours require advance booking and are highly recommended for art and
history enthusiasts.
Event Venue: The second piano nobile, with its
long central hall and five side rooms, is an ideal venue for weddings,
parties, and corporate events. The palazzo’s Grand Canal views, historic
interiors, and garden make it a sought-after location for exclusive
gatherings. Events are often accompanied by catering served on the
family’s porcelain and silverware, enhancing the aristocratic ambiance.
The garden, when accessible, adds a romantic “secret” element to events.
Luxury Apartments: Parts of the palazzo are rented as luxury apartments,
offering guests a chance to live in a historic Venetian palace. These
accommodations feature antique-filled interiors, Grand Canal views, and
access to the palazzo’s amenities. Some guests have noted issues with
dampness in ground-floor units, but the overall experience is described
as “lovely” and “spacious.”
Cultural Exhibitions: The palazzo hosts
temporary art and fashion exhibitions, such as the 2017 “Storie di Moda”
exhibit, which displayed historical Venetian costumes, and contemporary
art shows during the Venice Biennale. These events attract art lovers
and enhance the palazzo’s cultural profile.
Visitor Feedback: Reviews
on platforms like Tripadvisor (rated 4.5/5) highlight the palazzo’s
charm, with guests describing it as a “hidden treasure” and praising the
Countess’s “down-to-earth” hospitality. Memorable experiences include
arriving by water taxi, dining in the garden, and learning about the
palazzo’s history. Some note that public access is limited, requiring
pre-booked tours or event invitations, and occasional dampness in lower
levels is mentioned as a drawback.
Proposed Hotel Conversion: In
2016, InterContinental Hotels Group announced plans to convert the
palazzo into the InterContinental Venice - Palazzo Nani Hotel, set to
open in 2018. However, this plan appears to have been abandoned, as the
palazzo remains privately owned and operated by the Lucheschi family for
events and tours.
The Palazzo Nani Bernardo’s location on the Grand Canal enhances its
appeal:
Proximity to Landmarks: Situated in Dorsoduro, the
palazzo is steps from Ca’ Rezzonico (Museum of 18th-Century Venice) and
close to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Palazzo Grassi, and Ca’
Foscari. The vibrant, artsy Dorsoduro neighborhood, with its galleries,
students, and cultural institutions, adds to the area’s allure. The
palazzo is a 15-minute walk from St. Mark’s Square and easily accessible
from the Accademia Bridge.
Views: From the noble floor’s balconies,
guests enjoy stunning views of the Grand Canal’s “prestigious curve,”
including landmarks like Ca’ Foscari, Ca’ Rezzonico, and Palazzo Grassi.
The garden’s rear facade offers a serene contrast, overlooking the lush
greenery.
Transportation: The palazzo is accessible by water taxi
directly to its private water gate or via the Ca’ Rezzonico vaporetto
stop (a 2-minute walk). Guests arriving from Venice Marco Polo Airport
can arrange transfers (approximately 1 hour by boat and taxi). The
nearest parking is at Garage San Marco in Piazzale Roma, 1.5 km away.