Located in the heart of Venice’s San Marco district at Campo Manin, Palazzo Nervi-Scattolin stands as a striking example of modern architecture woven into the city’s historic urban fabric. Designed by renowned architects Pier Luigi Nervi and Angelo Scattolin, the building serves as the headquarters of Intesa Sanpaolo, formerly the Cassa di Risparmio di Venezia (Venice Savings Bank). Constructed between 1963 and 1972 and inaugurated in 1972 to mark the bank’s 150th anniversary, the palazzo replaced an earlier 1883 structure on the same site. Its bold modernist design sparked controversy at the time due to its contrast with Venice’s traditional Gothic and Renaissance architecture, yet it remains a significant architectural achievement, celebrated for its innovative engineering and thoughtful integration of contemporary and Venetian elements.
The Palazzo Nervi-Scattolin project emerged from the Cassa di Risparmio di Venezia’s need for a modernized headquarters. The original building, dating to 1883, was deemed inadequate after structural assessments, and the bank opted for a new structure rather than a restoration. The decision to demolish and rebuild was contentious, as Venice’s historic preservation ethos clashed with the introduction of a modernist building in Campo Manin, a square surrounded by 19th-century revivalist structures mimicking Venetian Gothic style. The design process, spanning nearly a decade, faced scrutiny, particularly over the facade’s aesthetic, with critics like Bruno Zevi questioning its compatibility with the historic context. Despite this, the collaboration between Nervi, a globally acclaimed engineer known for his innovative use of reinforced concrete, and Scattolin, a prominent Venetian architect, produced a building that balanced modern technology with subtle nods to Venetian architectural traditions.
Palazzo Nervi-Scattolin is a three-story structure that occupies a
prominent corner between Campo Manin and Campo San Luca, with its
primary facade facing Campo Manin. The building’s design is
characterized by its modernist aesthetic, technical sophistication, and
selective references to Venice’s architectural heritage.
Facade
The facade is the palazzo’s most defining and debated feature. Unlike
the surrounding buildings, which adopt a “falso antico” (false antique)
style reviving Venetian Gothic, Nervi and Scattolin opted for a
resolutely modern approach. The facade is composed of reinforced
concrete, glass, and steel, creating a grid-like pattern that evokes the
alternating solids and voids of Venetian Gothic architecture without
mimicking it. The ground floor features a massive bronze gate designed
by sculptor Simon Benetton, adding an artistic flourish that contrasts
with the facade’s austere geometry. Above, the two upper floors
(referred to as the “noble floors”) are marked by a continuous series of
square window openings separated by slender concrete pillars, creating a
rhythmic, transparent effect. Early proposals for the facade included a
diamond-patterned band inspired by the Palazzo Ducale, but this was
abandoned to avoid accusations of stylistic mimicry, resulting in the
cleaner, more abstract design seen today.
The facade’s modernist
character stands in stark contrast to Campo Manin’s revivalist
surroundings, a deliberate choice by Nervi and Scattolin to reject
pastiche and assert a contemporary identity. The rear facade, facing
Campo San Luca, is more restrained, retaining 18th-century lines to
harmonize with the adjacent buildings while incorporating 20th-century
elements.
Interior
The interior of Palazzo Nervi-Scattolin is
equally remarkable, showcasing Nervi’s engineering prowess and
Scattolin’s sensitivity to spatial dynamics. The ground-floor salone
(hall) is a spacious, open area, recently restored to highlight its
original design. A standout feature is the grand spiral staircase, a
sculptural element crafted from steel, wood, and reinforced concrete.
This staircase, described as a “bold architectural choice,” embodies
Nervi’s signature approach to structural expression, where engineering
becomes art. The staircase is complemented by two sculptures by Arturo
Martini, Agricoltore con spighe (Farmer with Wheat) and Ercole con la
pelle del leone (Hercules with the Lion’s Skin), both from 1910, which
add a historical layer to the modern interior.
The building’s
structural innovation is further evident in its isostatic ribbed slabs,
a Nervi hallmark that optimizes load distribution while creating
visually intricate ceiling patterns. Glass mosaic tiles, reminiscent of
Murano glass, adorn certain elements, reinforcing the Venetian
connection. The corner of the building features a glazed section that
enhances transparency and integrates the staircase into the external
view, creating a dynamic interplay between interior and exterior.
Palazzo Nervi-Scattolin is a testament to Nervi’s mastery of reinforced concrete and Scattolin’s ability to adapt modern materials to a historic context. The use of reinforced concrete allowed for the facade’s slender pillars and open floor plans, while steel and glass contributed to the building’s lightweight, transparent aesthetic. The bronze gate by Simon Benetton and the Murano glass tiles are not merely decorative but serve as tactile links to Venice’s artisanal traditions. The building’s structural elements, such as the isostatic slabs and variable-section pillars, demonstrate Nervi’s engineering ingenuity, ensuring both efficiency and aesthetic impact.
The palazzo’s construction was fraught with debate, primarily due to
its modernist facade, which some critics argued clashed with Venice’s
historic character. The prolonged design process, lasting from 1963 to
1972, reflected the challenges of securing approval in a city protective
of its architectural heritage. Articles in the press, including a
critical piece by Bruno Zevi in L’Espresso, fueled public discourse,
with some accusing the architects of disrupting Campo Manin’s cohesion.
However, others praised the building for its technical sophistication
and bold departure from revivalist trends. Over time, the palazzo has
gained recognition as a rare and successful example of contemporary
architecture in Venice, with its recent restoration (noted in 2023)
highlighting its enduring relevance.
Tripadvisor reviews reflect
mixed sentiments: some visitors appreciate the building’s “majestic”
presence and recommend guided tours (available by appointment only),
while others find it “out of place” in Campo Manin, citing its 1970s
aesthetic as jarring. A Russian reviewer noted that while the exterior
is distinctly modern, the interior preserves historical details, though
access is limited due to the building’s function as a bank headquarters.
Today, Palazzo Nervi-Scattolin serves as the Venetian headquarters of Intesa Sanpaolo, housing banking operations and occasionally hosting cultural events. Its location in Campo Manin, near landmarks like the Scala Contarini del Bovolo and the Grand Canal, makes it a notable stop for architecture enthusiasts, though public access is restricted to pre-arranged visits. The building’s integration into Venice’s urban fabric demonstrates how modern architecture can coexist with historic surroundings, provided it engages thoughtfully with context.
The palazzo is surrounded by notable sites, enhancing its appeal as
part of a broader Venetian itinerary:
Statua di Daniele Manin: A
monument in Campo Manin honoring the 19th-century Italian patriot.
Scala Contarini del Bovolo: A nearby spiral staircase known for its
architectural elegance.
Grand Canal: Venice’s main waterway,
accessible a short walk away.
Piazza San Marco: The city’s iconic
square, with the Basilica, Doge’s Palace, and historic cafes like
Florian and Quadri, is within easy reach.