The Palazzo Falier, also known as Palazzo Falier Canossa, is a historic Venetian palace located in the sestiere (district) of San Marco, overlooking the Grand Canal between the Ca’ del Duca and Palazzo Giustinian Lolin. This Gothic-style building, commissioned by the patrician Falier family in the early 15th century, is distinguished by its unique facade featuring two wooden liagò (covered loggias) and its rich historical associations with notable figures, including Doges Vitale and Marino Falier, and the sculptor Antonio Canova.
Origins and the Falier Family
The Palazzo Falier Canossa was built
in the first half of the 15th century for the Falier family, a prominent
Venetian patrician lineage with roots in the city since the 9th century.
The Falier were renowned as sailors (Capitani da mar) and produced three
Doges, including Vitale Falier (1084–1096), who was celebrated for the
miraculous rediscovery of Saint Mark’s body in 1094 (depicted in a
painting by Tintoretto), and Marino Falier (Doge 1354–1355), infamous
for his attempted coup d’état against the Venetian Republic, for which
he was executed. To distinguish this palace from another Palazzo Falier
in Cannaregio (associated with Marino Falier and now a hotel), Venetians
often refer to it as Palazzo Falier Canossa.
The Falier family
owned the palace until their extinction in the 20th century. In 1492,
the palace was owned by Francesco Falier, who was exiled to Cyprus for
life after proposing a charitable fund of 100 ducats annually for
impoverished patricians, a plan deemed financially ruinous by the
Council of Ten, costing an estimated 70,000 ducats. The family’s legacy
also includes Giovanni Falier, who recognized the talent of a young
Antonio Canova, a kitchen boy in their Asolo household, after seeing him
sculpt a lion from butter. Giovanni sponsored Canova’s artistic
education in Venice, and Canova later created the sculpture Dedalo e
Icaro (now in the Museo Correr) for him.
Later Ownership
After
the Falier family’s extinction, the palace was sold to the Canossa
family, a noble family from Verona, who owned it into the 20th century.
In the late 19th century, the American writer William Dean Howells, U.S.
consul in Venice under Abraham Lincoln, lived in the palace’s mezzanine
until 1865. His book Venetian Life (1866), inspired by his time there,
became a bestseller. The palace is now privately owned and occasionally
opens for exhibitions, particularly during the Venice Biennale.
Facade and Exterior
The Palazzo Falier Canossa is a striking
example of Venetian Gothic architecture, blending Byzantine and Moorish
influences with the Gothic style prevalent in Venice during the Middle
Ages. Its facade, slightly set back from the Grand Canal, is notable for
its unconventional design, deviating from the traditional tripartite
structure of many Venetian palaces. Key features include:
Two
Liagò: The facade is framed by two large, wooden liagò (covered loggias
or winter gardens), unique in Venetian architecture. These
glass-enclosed balconies, likely original to the 15th-century design,
allow residents to enjoy canal views while protected from the elements.
Initially thought to be 19th-century additions, recent scholarship
confirms their 15th-century origin. The liagò flank a central polifora
(multi-light Gothic window), creating a dramatic and asymmetrical
composition.
Gothic Windows: The central polifora features pointed
arches and intricate tracery, typical of Venetian Gothic, emphasizing
light and elegance. The facade’s upper mezzanine includes restored
leaded-glass windows, reinstalled during recent renovations to reflect
historical designs.
Material and Style: The facade combines pink and
white Istrian stone in an oblique pattern, a hallmark of Venetian
Gothic, with influences from Byzantine and Moorish styles, such as
inflected arches and lacy crenellations. The palace’s canal-facing
orientation reflects Venice’s reliance on waterways as primary
thoroughfares.
The palace’s location near the Accademia Bridge makes
it a prominent sight for those traveling along the Grand Canal or
waiting at the nearby vaporetto stop. Its small garden, nestled between
the liagò and the central facade, adds a rare touch of greenery to the
canal frontage.
Interior
The interior of Palazzo Falier
Canossa has been adapted over time to suit modern needs while preserving
its historical character. The piano nobile (main floor) features
high-ceilinged rooms suitable for grand events, such as piano recitals
or theatrical performances. Recent renovations, overseen by Venetian
architect Alberto Torsello and decorator Jacques Grange, redefined the
interior layout, as no original plans were available. The owners,
Giovanni and Servane Giol, prioritized a blend of Venetian, French, and
Oriental aesthetics, incorporating family furniture and works by local
artisans, such as Giberto Arrivabene’s drinking glasses and Gaby
Wagner’s glass lamps.
The palace includes modern amenities, such
as additional bedrooms, a family kitchen, and spaces for cultural
activities, reflecting its current use as a private residence and
cultural venue. Paintings on the walls combine Old Masters with works by
the owners’ artist friends, enhancing the palace’s eclectic charm.
Structural Considerations
Like all Venetian palaces, Palazzo
Falier Canossa rests on a foundation of timber piles driven into the
lagoon’s muddy bed, topped with stone. Its large windows, made possible
by Venice’s proximity to Murano’s glass industry and the city’s relative
safety from land-based enemies, maximize light and views. The palace’s
distinctive chimney designs (upside-down cones or pyramids) were
intended to trap embers, mitigating the risk of fire—a constant threat
in Venice’s wooden-beamed structures.
Role in Venetian History
The Palazzo Falier Canossa reflects the
wealth and influence of the Falier family, who were integral to Venice’s
maritime and political history. Their production of three Doges
underscores their prominence, though Marino Falier’s treason in 1355
left a controversial legacy, symbolized by the black shroud over his
portrait in the Doge’s Palace. The palace’s canal-front location near
the Accademia Bridge highlights its strategic and prestigious position,
aligning with the Falier family’s status.
Artistic Connections
The palace’s association with Antonio Canova is a significant cultural
highlight. Giovanni Falier’s patronage enabled Canova’s rise to fame,
and the Dedalo e Icaro sculpture remains a testament to this
relationship. The palace’s occasional use for Biennale exhibitions
further ties it to Venice’s contemporary art scene, making it a bridge
between the city’s medieval past and modern cultural life.
Modern
Cultural Hub
Under the ownership of Giovanni and Servane Giol, the
palace has become a center for cultural activities. Giovanni serves as
president of the Conservatorio di Musica Benedetto Marcello, housed in
the nearby Palazzo Pisani, while Servane founded the Laboratorio Falier,
a theater school that has grown from eight students to a significant
community program. The school, directed by Giovanna Cordova, stages
plays in Venice and tours annually, with rehearsals often held in the
palace’s garden. The palace’s piano nobile hosts piano recitals and
theatrical performances, reinforcing its role as a cultural venue.
Private Residence and Cultural Venue
Today, Palazzo Falier Canossa
is a private residence for the Giol family, who have restored and
adapted it for modern living while preserving its historical essence.
The ground floor has been converted into apartments available for rent,
praised by visitors for their Grand Canal views and proximity to the
Accademia Bridge. The palace’s piano nobile serves as a venue for
cultural events, including exhibitions during the Venice Biennale,
making it accessible to the public on select occasions.
Restoration Efforts
Restorations, particularly in the 19th and 20th
centuries, have addressed structural challenges posed by Venice’s
maritime climate. Architect Alberto Torsello’s work ensured historical
accuracy, such as the reinstatement of leaded-glass windows, while
Jacques Grange’s interior design balanced historical sensitivity with
modern functionality. These efforts have preserved the palace’s Gothic
facade and unique liagò, maintaining its status as a visual landmark on
the Grand Canal.
Location: Calle Vitturi o Falier, 2906, San Marco, overlooking the
Grand Canal near the Accademia Bridge and Rio del Duca.
Access: The
palace is a private residence and not regularly open to the public. It
may be visited during Biennale exhibitions or special events.
Ground-floor apartments are available for rent (check platforms like
Tripadvisor for reviews).
Nearby Attractions: Accademia Bridge,
Gallerie dell’Accademia, Chiesa di San Vidal, Campo Santo Stefano, and
Palazzo Giustinian Lolin.
Significance for Visitors: The palace’s
iconic liagò and Gothic facade make it a must-see for architecture
enthusiasts traveling along the Grand Canal. Its cultural events and
historical ties to Canova and the Falier family add depth for those
exploring Venice’s heritage.