The Chiesa di San Pantaleone Martire, commonly known as San Pantalon in the Venetian dialect, is a remarkable yet often overlooked church located in the Dorsoduro sestiere of Venice, Italy. Situated on the Campo San Pantalon, just north of the bustling Campo Santa Margherita, this 17th-century parish church is dedicated to Saint Pantaleon of Nicomedia, a Christian doctor and martyr from the 3rd–4th centuries. Despite its unassuming and unfinished exterior, San Pantalon houses one of the most extraordinary artistic treasures in Venice: the largest oil painting on canvas in the world, adorning its ceiling.
The origins of San Pantalon are shrouded in some uncertainty, but
historical records suggest it is one of Venice’s oldest churches. It may
have been founded as early as the 9th century, though the first
documented mention appears in a 1161 privilege granted by Pope Alexander
III. At that time, it was likely a modest structure dedicated to Saint
Pantaleon and possibly Santa Giuliana. The church was rebuilt in 1222,
and its first known consecration occurred in 1305 under Bishop Ramberto
Polo during the reign of Doge Bartolomeo Dandolo. Over the centuries, it
underwent several reconstructions, with significant changes in the 17th
century that shaped its current form.
Saint Pantaleon, the
church’s patron, was a physician martyred around 305–310 AD during the
Diocletianic Persecution. Known as “all-compassionate,” he is venerated
as the patron saint of midwives and co-patron of doctors, alongside
Saints Cosmas and Damian. His cult was particularly strong in Venice,
partly due to the city’s Byzantine connections, as Pantaleon was revered
in the Eastern Church. His fame in Venice was further boosted in the
18th century by a play written by Carlo Goldoni, which popularized the
name “Pantalone” in the Commedia dell’arte, though the character is
unrelated to the saint.
The church’s parish was historically
vast, encompassing areas that later became the parishes of Frari,
Carmini, and Tolentini. By 1810, its jurisdiction was reduced
significantly. Today, it remains a parish church within the Vicariate of
San Polo-Santa Croce-Dorsoduro, under the care of the Frati Minori
Conventuali (Franciscan friars), who also oversee the nearby Basilica
dei Frari and San Nicola da Tolentino.
San Pantalon’s current architectural form is primarily the result of
a major reconstruction between 1668 and 1686, led by the Treviso
architect Francesco Comino. This rebuilding introduced a Baroque
aesthetic, aligning with the artistic trends of the period. A
significant structural change was the 90-degree rotation of the nave’s
longitudinal axis, reorienting the church so that its façade faced the
Campo San Pantalon rather than the Rio di San Pantalon, as depicted in
the 1500 Barbari map of Venice. This reorientation better integrated the
church with the urban fabric of the campo.
Exterior
The
church’s exterior is notably plain, with an unfinished brick façade that
lacks the marble cladding typical of many Venetian churches. Financial
constraints are often cited as the reason for this incomplete state,
though some sources suggest it was a deliberate choice reflecting the
church’s modest parish status. The façade features a central portal
flanked by two smaller lateral doors and a single semi-circular window
above, offering a stark contrast to the opulent interiors. The
simplicity of the exterior often causes visitors to overlook San
Pantalon, making its interior all the more surprising.
Interior
The interior of San Pantalon is a single-nave structure with side
chapels, a layout typical of Venetian parish churches. The space is
characterized by a rich decorative scheme, with a focus on its ceiling,
which is the church’s most celebrated feature. The interior is
relatively dark, but visitors can illuminate the ceiling by inserting a
coin into a light box, revealing the vibrant details of the artwork. The
church’s modest scale and serene atmosphere provide a tranquil contrast
to Venice’s more tourist-heavy sites.
In 1722, a small
rectangular chapel, known as the Chapel of the Holy Nail, was added to
the left of the presbytery to house a relic donated by the last abbess
of the Clarisse convent on Santa Chiara. In 1744, the church also
constructed an oratory replicating the Santa Casa di Loreto, featuring
frescoes attributed to Pietro Longhi. These additions enhance the
church’s spiritual and artistic significance.
San Pantalon is a treasure trove of Venetian art, with its ceiling
painting as the centerpiece. Below are the key artistic features:
1. The Ceiling: The Martyrdom and Apotheosis of St Pantalon
The
church’s defining feature is its immense ceiling painting, “The
Martyrdom and Apotheosis of St Pantalon”, created by Gian Antonio
Fumiani between 1680 and 1704. Spanning 443 square meters and composed
of 40–44 canvases sewn together, it is widely regarded as the largest
oil painting on canvas in the world. Often mistaken for a fresco due to
its seamless integration with the church’s architecture, the painting is
a masterpiece of Baroque illusionism.
Composition: The painting
narrates the life, martyrdom, and glorification of Saint Pantaleon. Key
scenes include:
The martyrdom on the left, depicting Pantaleon’s
unjust death sentence under Emperor Galerius Maximianus (shown seated on
a throne in red).
The apotheosis in the center, where Pantaleon is
welcomed into paradise by Christ, surrounded by angels who present him
with the crown of glory and the palm of martyrdom.
Pantaleon
enthroned above the main chapel, symbolizing his triumph.
Illusionistic Effects: Fumiani’s genius lies in his use of trompe-l’œil
techniques, creating dramatic architectural perspectives that make the
ceiling appear to extend into the heavens. The painting’s integration
with the church’s structure creates a three-dimensional effect, leaving
viewers in awe.
Creation and Legend: The work took 24 years to
complete, and a discredited legend claims Fumiani fell to his death from
scaffolding while finishing it. Historical records confirm he died in
1710, six years after completing the painting.
The ceiling’s
inclusion on the BBC’s list of the ten most beautiful ceilings in the
world underscores its global significance. Visitors often describe it as
a “hidden secret” due to the church’s low profile among Venice’s tourist
attractions.
2. Veronese’s Last Work: St Pantalon Healing a Boy
In the second chapel on the right, visitors can admire “St Pantalon
Healing a Boy” (1587), the final known work by Paolo Veronese, completed
a year before his death from pneumonia. Originally commissioned for the
high altar, this altarpiece showcases Veronese’s late style, with rich
colors and emotional depth. It depicts Pantaleon’s miraculous healing,
emphasizing his role as a physician-saint.
3. Coronation of the
Virgin in the Chapel of the Holy Nail
The Chapel of the Holy Nail,
accessible for a small fee (€1), houses an exquisite “Coronation of the
Virgin” (1444) by Antonio Vivarini and Giovanni d’Alemagna. This vivid
icon features a stern Heavenly Father, vibrant angels, and cherubs,
rendered in a Gothic style with Renaissance influences. The chapel’s
serene ambiance and the artwork’s well-preserved condition make it a
highlight for art enthusiasts.
4. Gilded Crucifix
Above the
central altar hangs a gilded wooden crucifix (c. 1335–1345), attributed
to an unknown Venetian artist known as the Maestro di San Pantalon. This
14th-century work was illicitly removed by a parish priest around 1935
and passed through various hands, including reportedly Hermann Goering,
before being recovered by the Carabinieri Command for the Protection of
Cultural Heritage in 2012. Returned to the church in 2016, it is a
testament to Venice’s efforts to preserve its heritage.
5. Loreto
Chapel Frescoes
The Loreto Chapel, built in 1744 to replicate the
Santa Casa di Loreto, contains remnants of 18th-century frescoes by
Pietro Longhi, including a Madonna and Child. These works add to the
church’s rich artistic tapestry.
6. Gaetano Callido Organ
Above the entrance, an organ crafted by Gaetano Callido in 1803 enhances
the church’s musical heritage, used during masses and special events.
San Pantalon is more than an artistic landmark; it is a living parish
church that fosters a sense of community. The Frati Minori Conventuali
maintain an active pastoral presence, with daily masses (typically at
6:00 PM) and a “gruppo carità” (charity group) that meets monthly to
support local needs. The church’s serene atmosphere offers a peaceful
retreat for reflection, contrasting with Venice’s crowded tourist sites.
Its artistic treasures, particularly the ceiling, make San Pantalon
a must-visit for those interested in Venetian Baroque art and
illusionistic painting. The church’s inclusion in restoration efforts by
organizations like Save Venice Inc. highlights its importance to
Venice’s cultural heritage.
Location: Campo San Pantalon, Dorsoduro 3703, Venice. Accessible from
the Ca’ Rezzonico or San Tomà vaporetto stops (Lines 1, 2, or N).
Opening Hours: Typically Monday–Saturday, 4:00 PM–6:00 PM; Sunday, 5:00
PM–6:00 PM. Hours may vary, so check locally.
Admission: Free, though
a €1 fee may apply for the Chapel of the Holy Nail. Coin-operated
lighting is available to illuminate the ceiling.
Tips for Visitors:
Visit on weekday mornings for a quieter experience. Ask the sexton for
access to the side chapels if they are closed. The nearby Campo Santa
Margherita offers cafés and a lively atmosphere for post-visit
relaxation.