The Chiesa dell’Angelo Raffaele, officially known as the Chiesa di San Raffaele Arcangelo (Church of the Archangel Raphael), is a historic Catholic church in Venice, Italy, located in the Dorsoduro sestiere. Known locally as “Anzolo Rafael” in the Venetian dialect, it is one of the city’s oldest churches, with a rich history, distinctive architecture, and significant artistic treasures. Its serene location along a quiet canal and its unique ability to be circumnavigated on foot make it a hidden gem in Venice’s ecclesiastical landscape.
The origins of the Chiesa di San Raffaele Arcangelo are steeped in
legend and tradition, with some sources suggesting it may predate even
the oldest recorded churches in Venice. According to one account, the
church was founded in 416 AD following a vow by Adriana, the wife of
Genusio Ruteno, a lord of Padua, to secure her husband’s safe return to
Venice from a war-torn mainland. If true, this would make it older than
San Giacomo di Rialto, traditionally considered Venice’s earliest church
(founded in 421 AD).
More commonly, the church is attributed to
Saint Magnus of Oderzo (580–670), a bishop venerated as a saint, who is
said to have founded eight churches in Venice during the 7th century,
including San Raffaele Arcangelo. Historical records confirm the
presence of a church on this site by 828, linking it to Venice’s early
Christian community.
The church has endured multiple calamities,
including fires in 889, 1106, and 1149, each followed by reconstruction.
By the early 17th century, the building was in poor condition, leading
to its demolition and a complete rebuild under the architect Francesco
Contin of Lugano. Construction began in 1618, with the new church
completed in 1639, though interior decorations continued into the 18th
century, finalized between 1743 and 1749.
The church is situated in the Dorsoduro sestiere, a vibrant yet less
tourist-heavy district known for its artistic and academic atmosphere.
It lies near the San Basilio water bus (vaporetto) stop, making it
accessible via water bus lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, or 6 (Santa Marta
stop). The church’s main façade faces the Rio dell’Angelo Raffaele, a
tranquil canal named after the church, while its western entrance along
the Salizada della Chiesa is the most commonly used access point.
A distinctive feature is that San Raffaele Arcangelo is one of only
two churches in Venice that can be walked around entirely, a rarity in a
city where buildings are often tightly packed or bordered by canals.
Nearby attractions include the Ca’ Rezzonico museum, Palazzo Giustinian
Recanati, and the churches of San Sebastiano and Santa Maria dei
Carmini, all within a 10-minute walk.
The church is located at
Campo Anzolo Raffaele 1721, 30123 Venice, and is typically open to
visitors from 10:00 AM to 12:00 PM and 3:00 PM to 5:30 PM, though hours
may vary, and it is often closed outside of religious services. Visitors
are advised to check opening times in advance, as some have reported
finding it closed.
The Chiesa di San Raffaele Arcangelo is a fine example of Venetian
architecture transitioning from Renaissance to early Baroque styles,
with elements reflecting its ancient origins. The church’s plan is a
Greek cross, a symmetrical layout with four equal arms, which is
relatively rare in Venice and emphasizes its early Christian roots.
Exterior
The façade, designed by Francesco Contin in the 17th
century, is constructed of white stone and faces the Rio dell’Angelo
Raffaele. It is characterized by a restrained elegance, typical of
Venetian churches that prioritize functionality over ostentatious
ornamentation. The façade caused a local controversy when restored, as
the removal of centuries of grime from its stone angels sparked debate
about preserving the “patina of age.”
Above the main entrance, a
prominent sculpture by Sebastiano Mariani depicts the Archangel Raphael
guiding Tobias, accompanied by Tobias’ dog and a fish, a reference to
the Book of Tobit. This scene is central to the church’s iconography and
cultural significance. The façade is flanked by two square-based bell
towers with Romanesque-style lead-covered spires, adding to the church’s
distinctive silhouette.
The ability to walk around the church
offers unique views of its apse, which opens onto the Campo dell’Angelo
Raffaele, and its western flank along the Salizada della Chiesa. The
surrounding campo and canal create a peaceful, almost secluded
atmosphere, contrasting with Venice’s busier tourist areas.
Interior
The interior is intimate, described by some as one of
Venice’s smaller churches, yet richly decorated. The Greek cross layout
creates a centralized space, with the altar positioned at the crossing.
The interior is adorned with 18th-century frescoes and paintings,
reflecting the Baroque taste of the period. A restored baptistery
features Francesco Fontebasso’s Baroque frescoes in vibrant pink, gold,
and pale green hues, adding a luminous quality to the space.
The
church’s organ doors are a highlight, painted with scenes from the Story
of Tobias, attributed to Gianantonio Guardi (1699–1760), a late
18th-century vedutista known for his misty Venetian landscapes. These
paintings employ the Venetian “pittura di tocco” (touch painting)
technique, characterized by scintillating brushstrokes and feathered
colors, showcasing the vitality of the Venetian school just before the
fall of the Republic. The organ doors narrate the Tobias story in a
dynamic, almost cinematic manner, sometimes depicting multiple events in
a single scene.
Sculptures by Sebastiano Mariani and Michelangelo
Morlaiter enhance the interior, with Mariani’s work also appearing above
the entrance. The main altar features a cycle of paintings, possibly by
Gianantonio or his brother Francesco Guardi, though attribution remains
uncertain.
The Chiesa di San Raffaele Arcangelo is dedicated to the Archangel
Raphael, one of the three archangels (alongside Michael and Gabriel)
named in the Bible. Raphael, meaning “God heals,” is the patron saint of
travelers, healers, and fishermen, and is prominently featured in the
Book of Tobit. In this story, Raphael, disguised as a human, guides
Tobias on a journey, instructing him to use a fish’s organs to heal his
father’s blindness and exorcise a demon. This narrative is central to
the church’s iconography, seen in the exterior sculpture and organ door
paintings.
The church’s connection to Sally Vickers’ novel Miss
Garnet’s Angel has drawn literary pilgrims. The novel, set in Venice,
prominently features the church and the Tobias story, inspiring visitors
to seek out its serene ambiance and artistic treasures. Reviews on
Tripadvisor highlight its appeal to fans of the book, with one visitor
noting the enthusiastic welcome of the custodian, who treated them as
guests rather than tourists.
The church also holds historical
manuscripts, including two 14th-century liturgical books (a Graduale and
a Kyriale) adopted for conservation by the Venice in Peril Fund in 2016.
These manuscripts, containing mass settings, faced significant
deterioration, with issues like flaking pigments and parchment damage
from iron gall ink. Their restoration underscores the church’s role in
preserving Venice’s cultural heritage.
Visitors often describe the Chiesa di San Raffaele Arcangelo as a
peaceful retreat from Venice’s crowded tourist sites. Its location in a
quiet corner of Dorsoduro, near the Campo dell’Angelo Raffaele, offers a
glimpse of the “real” Venice, as one reviewer noted. The church’s small
size and spiritual ambiance, enhanced by occasional organ music, create
memorable experiences. One visitor recounted hearing an organ master
practicing in an empty church, adding spontaneity to their visit.
However, the church’s limited opening hours can be a challenge. It
is often closed except for religious services, and several reviewers
advised checking schedules in advance to avoid disappointment. When
open, the interior’s frescoes, paintings, and sculptures are described
as stunning, with the Tobias-themed art being a particular draw.
The church’s exterior, including the statue of Raphael, Tobias, and the
dog, is accessible even when closed, and the nearby tabernacle with an
antique crucifix adds to the area’s historical charm. The surrounding
neighborhood offers additional attractions, such as the Ca’ Zenobio
degli Armeni, San Sebastiano church, and local wine bars like Danilo
Venezia Wine.
For a family of four seeking affordable, three-star accommodation near the church, options can be found by searching “Hotels near Chiesa di Angelo Raffaele, Venice, Italy” on platforms like Tripadvisor, where user ratings provide guidance. One nearby option mentioned is the DV House Luxury Design (0.05 km away), though pricing and availability should be verified. Dorsoduro’s proximity to the San Basilio vaporetto stop makes it convenient for exploring Venice, and the area offers a range of budget-friendly hotels and apartments suitable for families.