Palazzo Soranzo Cappello is a historic palace located in the Santa Croce sestiere (district) of Venice, Italy, at Fondamenta Rio Marin, 770, near Palazzo Gradenigo. Positioned along the Rio Marin canal, it is close to key Venetian landmarks like the Venezia Santa Lucia railway station (300 meters northwest), the Ponte degli Scalzi (200 meters northwest), and the churches of San Simeone Profeta and San Simeon Piccolo. The Santa Croce district, one of Venice’s six sestieri, gained prominence in the 1930s with the creation of Piazzale Roma, connecting central Venice to vehicular traffic via the Constitution Bridge.
The palace’s origins date to the late 16th century, with construction attributed to the powerful Soranzo family, a prominent Venetian noble lineage. The building’s initial structure was likely commissioned by the Bragadin family, who renovated it between the late 1500s and early 1600s. In 1625, Lorenzo Soranzo, a procurator of St. Mark, acquired the property and initiated significant enhancements, particularly to the façade and garden. The palace changed hands among various families over the centuries and served as a barracks for a period, reflecting its adaptability. By the 20th century, it fell into neglect but was restored after being acquired by the State Public Property in 1989. Today, it serves as the headquarters of the Superintendence of Archaeology, Fine Arts, and Landscape for the metropolitan area of Venice and the provinces of Belluno, Padua, and Treviso, underscoring its role as a governmental and cultural institution.
Palazzo Soranzo Cappello exemplifies Venetian Renaissance
architecture, with a style reminiscent of Michele Sanmicheli, though the
architect remains unknown. The palace’s design adheres to traditional
Venetian typology, featuring a monumental façade and a layout centered
around a salone passante (central hall) that organizes lateral rooms.
Its architectural highlights include:
Façade: Facing the Rio
Marin, the façade spans four levels: a ground floor, a mezzanine, and
two noble floors, with a mezzanine attic featuring a skylight, a feature
seen in other 16th-century Venetian palaces. The façade is clad in
distinctive pink plaster with white Istrian stone accents, creating a
striking contrast. The first noble floor is adorned with an elegant
serliana (a tripartite window with an arched central section flanked by
rectangular openings), complete with white-stone inserts and a
balustrade. Both noble floors are marked by stringcourse cornices,
adding horizontal emphasis to the pink plaster wall. The second noble
floor includes a polifora (multi-light window) with a balcony under its
three central openings, enhancing the façade’s grandeur.
Interior:
The interior preserves valuable pictorial and decorative elements,
including wooden ceiling beams with elaborate cornices, some featuring
tempera and gold-leaf decorations. The salone passante on the first
noble floor is decorated with refined phytomorphic (plant-inspired)
motifs and trompe l’œil architectural and sculptural elements,
showcasing Venetian artistry. The ground-floor androne (entrance hall)
also features Istrian stone elements, contributing to the palace’s
monumental character.
Adjacent Structure: The complex includes a
smaller adjacent palazzetto, likely added later to meet spatial needs,
separated from the neighboring Palazzo Gradenigo by a garden wall. This
addition reflects the palace’s evolution over time.
The architectural
sobriety, combined with refined detailing, aligns with Sanmicheli’s
influence, emphasizing proportion and elegance over ostentatious
decoration. The palace’s design reflects Venice’s mercantile and
aristocratic heritage, balancing functionality with aesthetic
sophistication.
The garden of Palazzo Soranzo Cappello is one of Venice’s most
celebrated “secret” gardens, hidden behind the palace’s façade and
renowned for its historical and artistic significance. It is considered
a standalone attraction, often listed separately on platforms like
TripAdvisor. Key features include:
Layout and History: The
garden’s current layout is documented in a 1709 engraving by Vincenzo
Coronelli, suggesting its establishment in the early 17th century. It
was further embellished in the early 1760s, possibly to celebrate the
1658 wedding of Lorenzo Soranzo and Elisabetta Badoer. The garden is
divided into a courtyard and a larger green space, separated by a low
parapet with an ironwork grille. A straight path flanked by statues
leads to a small temple, likely from the mid-18th century, adding a
classical touch.
Sculptures: The courtyard features statues of the
Twelve Caesars (based on Suetonius’ accounts), crafted by Clement Molli,
depicting Julius Caesar and the first eleven Roman emperors as
condottieri (military leaders). Two sculptural groups, possibly
representing the Rape of the Sabine Women or the Labors of Hercules,
stand between the courtyard and garden, adding mythological depth. These
sculptures, commissioned by the Soranzo family, enhance the garden’s
grandeur.
Botanical and Cultural Appeal: Described as a “suggestive
and picturesque” historic garden, it is a haven for botany enthusiasts,
though some reviews note it could be better maintained. Its lush
greenery, framed by sculptures, offers a rare oasis in Venice’s dense
urban landscape. The garden’s literary fame stems from its role as a
setting in Gabriele d’Annunzio’s Il Fuoco (where Stelio and Foscarina
meet) and Henry James’s The Aspern Papers (where the search for Jeffrey
Aspern’s papers unfolds), cementing its cultural significance.
Access: The garden is open to the public Monday to Friday, 8:30 a.m. to
1:00 p.m., with advance booking required via phone (+39 041 2574011 or
041 2528816) or email (sabap-ve-met@beniculturali.it). Extraordinary
openings, often free with guided tours, occur between spring and early
autumn, with specific 2025 dates announced on the Superintendence’s
website (e.g., April 30, May 14, and May 28).
The garden’s seclusion,
accessible only through the palace’s portego, enhances its mystique,
making it a hidden gem for visitors seeking Venice’s lesser-known
treasures.
Palazzo Soranzo Cappello’s cultural importance extends beyond its
architecture and garden. Its literary connections elevate its status:
Gabriele d’Annunzio’s Il Fuoco: The garden serves as the romantic
backdrop for encounters between Stelio and Foscarina, infusing it with
poetic allure.
Henry James’s The Aspern Papers: The palace and garden
are central to the narrative, where the protagonist’s quest for Jeffrey
Aspern’s papers unfolds, highlighting its atmospheric charm.
These
works have immortalized the palace, particularly its garden, as a symbol
of Venice’s enigmatic beauty, attracting literary enthusiasts and
cultural tourists.
Today, the palace functions as an administrative hub for the
Superintendence of Archaeology, Fine Arts, and Landscape, overseeing
cultural heritage in Venice and surrounding provinces. This governmental
role limits public access to the palace itself, which is not always open
to visitors. The garden, however, is more accessible, with structured
visiting hours and special openings. Visitors are advised to contact the
Superintendence in advance to confirm access details, as spontaneous
visits may not be accommodated.
Address: S. Croce 770, Fondamenta
Rio Marin, 30135 Venice, Italy.
Contact: +39 041 2574011 or
sabap-ve-met@beniculturali.it.
Garden Hours: Monday–Friday, 8:30
a.m.–1:00 p.m. (booking required); special openings announced online.
Nearby Attractions: Include the Museum of Natural History at Fondaco dei
Turchi, Ca’ Pesaro’s contemporary art exhibitions, and the vibrant
Piazzale Roma area.
TripAdvisor reviews praise the palace’s
historical charm and the garden’s botanical appeal, though some note
maintenance issues. Its proximity to the railway station makes it
accessible for travelers arriving in Venice.