Nestled along the tranquil Rio di San Trovaso in Venice’s Dorsoduro district, the Squero di San Trovaso is one of the city’s most iconic and historic gondola boatyards, known as a squero in Venetian dialect. Dating back to at least the 17th century, this small shipyard is a living testament to Venice’s maritime heritage, specializing in the construction and repair of gondolas, the city’s emblematic flat-bottomed rowing boats. As one of only three remaining active squeri in Venice, alongside Squero Tramontin and Squero Bonaldo, San Trovaso stands out for its picturesque setting, distinctive architecture, and enduring role in preserving a centuries-old craft. Its Tyrolean-style wooden structures, resembling mountain chalets, and its proximity to landmarks like the Accademia Bridge and the Zattere promenade make it a unique and cherished site in Venice’s urban landscape.
The Squero di San Trovaso has been in operation since at least the
17th century, with some sources suggesting it is over 600 years old,
though precise records are scarce. The term squero derives from the
Venetian word squara, meaning a square ruler used by shipwrights, or
possibly from the Greek eskárion, meaning building site. In Venice’s
maritime heyday, particularly in the 16th and 18th centuries, the city
was dotted with hundreds of squeri, with up to 45 private shipyards
operating in the 18th century. These complemented the state-owned
Venetian Arsenal, which focused on larger naval and merchant vessels,
while squeri like San Trovaso crafted smaller boats such as gondolas,
pupparini, sandoli, and s’ciopóni for private use and local transport.
During the 16th century, Venice’s canals teemed with an estimated
10,000 gondolas, a number that has dwindled to around 350–400 today,
primarily serving tourists. The decline in squeri reflects the shift
from gondolas as a primary mode of transport to a tourist attraction,
yet San Trovaso remains a vital link to this tradition. Originally, the
boatyard produced a variety of small boats, but today it focuses almost
exclusively on gondola repairs and, occasionally, new constructions. The
squeraroli (gondola builders) at San Trovaso, many of whom historically
hailed from the Cadore region in the Dolomites, have passed down their
craft through generations, maintaining techniques that have changed
little in centuries.
The Squero di San Trovaso is instantly recognizable for its
distinctive architecture, which sets it apart from Venice’s typical
stone palazzi. The boatyard consists of a cluster of wooden buildings
that resemble Tyrolean mountain huts or ski chalets, an unusual sight in
a city built on water. This design has both practical and historical
roots:
Material Origins: The wood used for gondola construction,
as well as the carpenters (maestri d’ascia, or axe masters),
traditionally came from Cadore in the Venetian Dolomites. The wooden
structures reflect the architectural style of this mountainous region.
Functional Design: The buildings are built on an inclined forecourt
sloping toward the Rio di San Trovaso, facilitating the launching and
hauling of boats. A canopy provides shelter from rain, and the upper
floors historically housed the carpenters’ families, while the lower
levels served as workshops and warehouses.
The boatyard’s layout
includes an open space bordering the canal, a slipway for boat access,
and wooden structures surrounding a small square. This configuration is
typical of Venetian squeri, designed to optimize the labor-intensive
process of boatbuilding. The simplicity of the wooden buildings
contrasts with the ornate Palladian-style structures nearby, creating a
rustic, almost anachronistic charm that transports visitors to an
earlier era.
Building a gondola at San Trovaso is a meticulous, artisanal process
that relies on traditional methods unchanged for centuries. Each gondola
is crafted by hand without modern winches or preparatory drawings,
relying instead on the squeraroli’s expertise and experience. The
process involves:
Materials: Gondolas are constructed from eight
types of wood—mahogany, cherry, fir, walnut, oak, elm, larch, and
lime—each chosen for specific properties like strength, flexibility, or
weight. Approximately 280 individual parts are assembled to create the
boat’s asymmetrical, shallow hull, which measures about 11 meters long
and 1.4 meters wide.
Design: Gondolas are built to an exact science,
with a twisted alignment that allows the gondolier to row from one side
while maintaining control in Venice’s narrow, crowded canals. The right
side is lower than the left to compensate for the gondolier’s weight at
the stern. Since the 16th century, a sumptuary law has mandated that all
gondolas be painted black to curb excessive decoration by noble
families, though an iron ferro (symbolizing Venice’s sestieri) adorns
the bow, and a carved wooden oarlock secures the oar.
Labor:
Constructing a new gondola takes 40–45 working days and involves
multiple artisans, including remeri (oar makers), calafati (caulkers),
and cordaroli (rope makers). Painting, the ferro, and wood carvings are
often outsourced to local specialists. Repairs, which dominate San
Trovaso’s current work, are equally labor-intensive, ensuring the
gondolas remain watertight and functional.
The boatyard’s reliance on
traditional methods, without modern technology, underscores the craft’s
authenticity. Each gondola is customized to suit its client, whether a
gondolier or a private owner, making every boat unique.
The Squero di San Trovaso is not only a functional shipyard but also
a cultural landmark that has inspired artists and writers. In the 19th
century, painters like Antonietta Brandeis, Rafael Senet y Pérez, and
Jules-Romain Joyant captured its picturesque quality, drawn to its
rustic charm and the interplay of wood, water, and gondolas. John
Ruskin’s The Stones of Venice is evoked in discussions of the squero,
with its call to “build for ever” resonating with the enduring craft
practiced here. The boatyard’s setting along the Rio di San Trovaso,
opposite a small canal lined with cafes like Osteria Al Squero, makes it
a photogenic spot for visitors, who can observe the squeraroli at work
from across the water.
The squero has also been featured in
cultural events, such as exhibitions tied to La Biennale, highlighting
its role as a symbol of Venetian craftsmanship. Its proximity to the San
Trovaso Church and the Zattere, a waterfront promenade named for the
wooden rafts (zattere) that once transported timber from Cadore, embeds
it in Venice’s maritime narrative.
The Squero di San Trovaso is not generally open to the public,
preserving its active workspace for the squeraroli. However, visitors
can view the boatyard from across the Rio di San Trovaso, along
Fondamenta Bonini or Fondamenta Meraviglie, where the sight of gondolas
being repaired or drying in the yard is a highlight. For groups of at
least 25 people, guided tours can be arranged from Monday to Friday,
lasting about 30 minutes. These tours, led by the squeraroli, offer
insights into gondola construction techniques and the boats’ unique
characteristics. Flash photography is prohibited to ensure the safety of
craftsmen working with sharp tools.
The boatyard’s location, just
southwest of the Accademia Gallery and near the Zattere vaporetto stop,
makes it an easy addition to a Dorsoduro itinerary. Visitors often
combine a stop at the squero with nearby attractions like the Gallerie
dell’Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, or the San Trovaso
Church. Across the canal, small bars and restaurants, such as Osteria Al
Squero, offer a chance to enjoy a coffee, spritz, or cicheti (Venetian
tapas) while watching the boatyard’s activity, enhancing the experience.
The Squero di San Trovaso is widely celebrated as one of Venice’s
most authentic and characteristic corners, earning a Tripadvisor
Travelers’ Choice award for its cultural significance. Reviews praise
its “fascinating” and “picturesque” quality, with visitors appreciating
the glimpse into a nearly extinct craft. Some note the boatyard’s “out
of context” architecture, likening it to a Swiss chalet, which adds to
its allure. However, the inability to enter without a group booking can
disappoint solo travelers, though the view from the canal is often
deemed sufficient.
In a city increasingly shaped by tourism, the
squero remains a working site, not a staged attraction, which adds to
its authenticity. Its survival amid Venice’s economic and environmental
challenges, including acqua alta (high tides) that can affect the
canals, underscores the resilience of Venetian traditions. The
boatyard’s role in maintaining the city’s modest gondola fleet ensures
that this symbol of Venice endures, even as the number of gondoliers, a
profession often passed from father to son, continues to decline.
The Squero di San Trovaso is ideally situated for exploring
Dorsoduro’s cultural and historic sites:
Gallerie dell’Accademia:
A premier art museum showcasing Venetian masterpieces, a short walk
away.
Peggy Guggenheim Collection: A modern art museum housed in a
former palazzo along the Grand Canal.
San Trovaso Church: A
16th-century church adjacent to the squero, known for its Tintoretto
paintings.
Zattere Promenade: A scenic waterfront along the Giudecca
Canal, perfect for a leisurely stroll.
Ponte dell’Accademia: A iconic
wooden bridge offering views of the Grand Canal.