Location: 22 km (14 mi) South of Makindu via Kibwazi Map
Tel. 045 622483
Open: 6am- 7pm daily
Nestled in southeastern Kenya’s Makueni County, approximately 190 kilometers southeast of Nairobi and 30 kilometers southwest of Kibwezi, Chyulu Hills National Park is a pristine and relatively undiscovered gem in Kenya’s network of protected areas. Established in 1983 and managed by the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS), the park spans 741 square kilometers and forms part of the Tsavo conservation area, connecting Tsavo West, Tsavo East, and the Kibwezi Forest. Renowned as Ernest Hemingway’s “Green Hills of Africa,” the park is celebrated for its dramatic volcanic landscapes, rich biodiversity, and unparalleled views of Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest peak, located 75 kilometers to the northeast across the Kenya-Tanzania border. The Chyulu Hills, a 100-kilometer-long volcanic mountain range, offer a rugged wilderness experience, highlighted by the world’s longest lava tube, diverse flora and fauna, and a deep cultural connection to the Maasai people.
The Chyulu Hills are one of the youngest mountain ranges in the
world, formed by volcanic activity that began approximately 1.4 million
years ago in the northern parts and propagated southeastward. The range,
with its highest peak at 2,188 meters, comprises hundreds of small
volcanic cones, craters, and lava flows, with the last recorded
eruptions (Shaitani and Chainu) occurring in 1856. The park’s volcanic
origins are evident in its rugged black lava fields, ash cones, and the
iconic Leviathan Cave (also known as Kisula Cave), an
11.5-kilometer-long lava tube, one of the longest in the world. These
geological features attract geologists, volcanologists, and adventurers
seeking to explore the subterranean world.
The park’s porous
volcanic rock acts as a critical water catchment area, absorbing
rainfall and feeding permanent freshwater sources in the surrounding
plains, including Mzima Springs, Umanyi, Kibwezi, Makindu, and the Tsavo
and Galana rivers. This hydrological role supports ecosystems far beyond
the park’s boundaries, including coastal towns. The absence of permanent
rivers within the park itself underscores the importance of its
subterranean water systems.
The landscape is diverse, with
distinct ecological zones:
Grasslands and Thickets: The lower slopes,
below 1,800 meters, are dominated by savanna grasslands, acacia
woodlands, and scrublands, providing grazing grounds for herbivores.
Montane Forests: Above 1,800 meters, lush montane forests thrive,
featuring species like Neoboutonia macrocalyx, Strombosia scheffleri,
Cassipourea malosana, Prunus africana, and Ilex mitis. These forests,
often cloaked in mist, support unique biodiversity and act as cloud
forests.
Riverine Vegetation: Seasonal streams and rivers foster
dense vegetation, including fig trees, wild palms, reeds, and grasses,
creating vital habitats for wildlife.
Lava Flows and Orchids: Sparse
vegetation on lava flows contrasts with 37 species of orchids found on
the upper slopes, adding to the park’s botanical richness.
The
climate is characterized by temperatures ranging from 20–30°C and annual
rainfall of 200–700 mm, with two rainy seasons: the short rains in
November and the long rains in April–May. The dry seasons (June–October
and January–February) are ideal for wildlife viewing and exploration due
to better road conditions and concentrated animal activity around water
sources.
Chyulu Hills National Park supports a rich but less dense population
of wildlife compared to Kenya’s more famous parks like Maasai Mara or
Amboseli. Human encroachment and poaching have reduced wildlife numbers
within the park’s boundaries, but the broader Chyulu ecosystem,
including adjacent Maasai-owned conservancies, remains a haven for
biodiversity. The park’s fauna includes:
Mammals: Eastern black
rhinos (critically endangered), elephants, Cape buffaloes, bushbucks,
elands, Maasai giraffes, leopards, lions, cheetahs, mountain reedbucks,
steinboks, wildebeests, Grant’s zebras, giant forest hogs, and bush
pigs. Large mammals like elephants, lions, and leopards often migrate
between Chyulu Hills, Tsavo West, and Amboseli, using the park as a
dispersal zone. Wildlife is more abundant in the western flanks,
particularly in Maasai conservancies like the Mbirikani Group Ranch.
Reptiles: The park is home to snakes such as black mambas, puff adders,
and rock pythons, as well as geckos, tortoises, and lizards.
Insects:
Notable species include dung beetles, tsetse flies, and butterflies,
adding to the ecological complexity.
Birds: With over 380 recorded
species, Chyulu Hills is a birdwatcher’s paradise, particularly around
Lake Jipe in the southwest. Notable species include the Abyssinian
crimsonwing, Hartlaub’s turaco, white-headed buffalo weaver, African
crowned eagle, tambourine dove, African green pigeon, purple-crested
coucal, Klass’s cuckoo, Eurasian nightjar, alpine swift, black crake,
crowned lapwing, gray heron, and great egret. The dry season
(January–February, June–October) is optimal for birdwatching.
The
park’s flora, including montane forests and grasslands, supports this
biodiversity, with pockets of savanna and acacia woodlands providing
critical habitats. The montane forests, in particular, are vital for
water retention and species like the African cherry and black ironwood.
Chyulu Hills National Park offers a unique blend of adventure,
natural beauty, and cultural immersion, distinct from traditional
game-viewing safaris. Key attractions and activities include:
Leviathan Cave Exploration:
The Upper Leviathan Cave,
stretching 11.5 kilometers, is a highlight for adventurers.
Accessing the cave requires a 15-kilometer hike (3–4 hours one way)
from the park entrance, though the route is motorable for those
preferring to drive. Guided tours are recommended, as the cave’s
underground chambers and lava formations require proper equipment
and expertise. Many unexplored caves also dot the hills, offering
opportunities for speleological research.
Hiking and
Trekking:
The park’s volcanic hills, with their relatively gentle
slopes, are ideal for hiking. Trails lead through forests,
grasslands, and lava fields, offering panoramic views of Mount
Kilimanjaro and the surrounding plains. The highest peak, at 2,188
meters, is accessible and rewards climbers with breathtaking vistas.
Guided nature trails reveal hidden waterfalls, orchids, and
wildlife.
Wildlife Viewing:
While wildlife density is
lower within the park, game drives during the dry season
(June–October, January–February) offer sightings of giraffes,
zebras, elands, and occasionally big cats. Morning and afternoon
drives maximize animal encounters, as wildlife congregates around
water sources. The western conservancies, such as Mbirikani Group
Ranch, provide richer game-viewing opportunities, with elephants,
lions, and rhinos more frequently spotted.
Birdwatching:
Lake Jipe and the park’s woodlands and savannas are prime birding
spots. Guided birdwatching tours during the dry season reveal
colorful species and migratory birds, making Chyulu Hills a
must-visit for ornithologists.
Cultural Experiences:
The
park is situated in Maasai and Kamba territory, and visitors can
engage with Maasai communities through village visits, learning
about their traditions, folklore, and coexistence with wildlife.
Activities include cultural tours, interactions with Maasai
warriors, and insights into their conservation efforts.
Scenic Views and Photography:
The park’s emerald-green hills,
black lava flows, and views of Kilimanjaro create a photographer’s
paradise. Locations like the Shaitani lava flow, meaning “devil” in
Swahili, offer otherworldly landscapes. Sunrise and sunset views
enhance the dramatic scenery.
Adventure Activities in
Conservancies:
Adjacent Maasai-owned conservancies, such as
Mbirikani and Kuku Group Ranches, offer exclusive activities not
available within the park, including horseback safaris, mountain
biking, bush walks, fly camping, and tracking sessions with Maasai
guides. Lodges like Ol Donyo Lodge and Campi ya Kanzi provide
luxurious bases for these experiences.
Chyulu Hills National Park plays a vital role in Kenya’s conservation
efforts, particularly as a water catchment area and a corridor for
wildlife migrating between Tsavo and Amboseli. However, the park faces
significant challenges:
Poaching and Human Encroachment: Illegal
grazing by livestock within park boundaries and poaching have reduced
wildlife populations, making animals wary of humans. Conservation
programs, particularly in Maasai conservancies, are addressing these
issues through anti-poaching patrols and community involvement.
Low
Wildlife Density: Compared to other Kenyan parks, Chyulu Hills has fewer
animals, partly due to its high altitude and historical poaching.
Efforts to restore populations, especially of black rhinos, are ongoing.
Road Conditions: The park’s dirt roads become challenging during the wet
seasons (April–May, November), requiring sturdy 4x4 vehicles.
Climate
Risks: Heavy rainfall can flood caves, posing risks for explorers, and
climate change may alter the park’s delicate hydrological balance.
The KWS, in collaboration with Maasai communities and private lodges
like Ol Donyo Lodge and Campi ya Kanzi, is working to protect the park’s
ecosystems. These lodges, located on adjacent conservancies, run
conservation programs that support rhinos, elephants, and lions while
providing economic benefits to local communities through tourism and
employment. The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust also supports cloud forest
conservation in the Chyulu Hills, emphasizing its ecological importance.
The Chyulu Hills are deeply intertwined with Maasai culture, as the region lies within Maasailand. The Maasai, who call the hills “spotted hills” due to their volcanic features, have coexisted with wildlife for centuries, and their pastoralist lifestyle is integral to the ecosystem. Visitors can engage with Maasai traditions, from learning about their beadwork and dances to understanding their conservation practices. The park’s historical significance is further enhanced by its literary connection to Ernest Hemingway, who immortalized the hills in Green Hills of Africa, and its cinematic role as a stand-in for the Ngong Hills in the film Out of Africa.
Access:
By Road: The park is 232 kilometers from Nairobi (3–4
hours) via Mombasa Road (A109) to Emali, then the Emali-Loitokitok road
(C102) to Kithasyo Gate, 9 kilometers off the highway. From Mombasa (250
kilometers), access is via Tsavo West. A 4x4 vehicle is recommended due
to rugged terrain.
By Air: Domestic chartered flights from Nairobi or
Mombasa land at airstrips near the park, such as Ol Donyo Wuas or those
serving Campi ya Kanzi and Ol Donyo Lodge. Jomo Kenyatta International
Airport (NBO) is the main entry point for international visitors.
By
Rail: The Standard Gauge Railway from Nairobi or Mombasa to Kibwezi
offers an alternative, followed by a road transfer to the park.
Best Time to Visit:
The dry seasons (June–October, January–February)
are optimal for wildlife viewing, birdwatching, and caving, as roads are
accessible and animals congregate around water sources. The wet seasons
(April–May, November) offer lush greenery but challenging road
conditions and risks of cave flooding.
Entry Fees:
Park fees
are paid via the KWS e-Citizen platform using M-Pesa, Airtel Money, or
credit/debit cards. Visitors must present a digital ticket at the gate.
Exact fees vary by nationality and age; check the KWS website for
details.
Accommodation:
The park has three public campsites
near the headquarters, offering scenic views but basic facilities.
Luxury options are available in adjacent conservancies:
Ol Donyo
Lodge: A Tier 1 lodge on the 275,000-acre Mbirikani Group Ranch,
offering suites, a pool, star beds, and activities like horseback
safaris and bush tracking.
Campi ya Kanzi: A boutique eco-lodge on a
400,000-acre Maasai ranch, known for its Italian cuisine, community
engagement, and activities like guided walks and birding.
Nearby
accommodations in Tsavo West or Amboseli provide additional options.
Activities and Tips:
Book guided tours for caving and hiking to
ensure safety and maximize experience.
Bring sturdy shoes, water, and
sun protection for outdoor activities.
Engage with Maasai guides for
cultural insights and wildlife tracking.
Combine a visit with Tsavo
West, Amboseli, or Maasai Mara for a comprehensive safari.
Chyulu Hills National Park is a critical site for geological and ecological research, particularly due to its volcanic features and role as a water catchment. The Leviathan Cave has drawn international attention from speleologists, while the park’s biodiversity supports studies on species adaptation and migration. Its conservation efforts, especially in collaboration with Maasai communities, serve as a model for community-based wildlife protection. Globally, the park’s pristine landscapes and low tourism footprint make it a case study in sustainable eco-tourism, offering an alternative to crowded game-viewing destinations.