Location: Irbid Governorate Map
Umm Qais (also spelled Umm Qays or Um Qais) (أم قيس), located in northern Jordan, is a captivating archaeological and cultural site renowned for its historical significance, stunning ruins, and breathtaking vistas. Situated on a hilltop 378 meters (1,240 feet) above sea level, it overlooks the Jordan Valley, the Sea of Galilee (Lake Tiberias), the Yarmouk River, the Golan Heights, and parts of Syria, Israel, and the Palestinian Territories. Once the thriving Greco-Roman city of Gadara, a member of the Decapolis, Umm Qais is steeped in history, from its Hellenistic origins to its Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman periods. Today, the site comprises three main areas: the archaeological ruins of Gadara, a late Ottoman village, and the modern town of Umm Qais. Named a “Best Tourism Village” by the World Tourism Organization in 2022, Umm Qais blends ancient heritage with vibrant community tourism.
Umm Qais, originally known as Gadara, has a rich history spanning
over two millennia, shaped by its strategic location on trade routes
connecting Syria, Palestine, and the Mediterranean. Its historical
timeline includes:
Pre-Hellenistic and Hellenistic Periods
(Before 3rd Century BCE–63 BCE): Sparse evidence suggests early
settlement before the 3rd century BCE. Gadara was likely founded as a
military colony by the Ptolemies, successors of Alexander the Great,
after his conquest of the region in 333 BCE. Its name, meaning
“fortress” or “stronghold” in Greek, reflects its defensive role. The
city was contested by the Ptolemies and Seleucids, with Antiochus III
besieging it in 218 BCE. In 98 BCE, the Hasmonean king Alexander
Jannaeus laid siege to Gadara for 10 months, capturing it from the
Nabataeans. The Nabataean king Obodas I reclaimed it in 93 BCE after a
decisive victory at the Battle of Gadara.
Roman Period (63 BCE–4th
Century CE): In 63 BCE, Roman general Pompey conquered the region,
rebuilding Gadara as a semi-autonomous city within the Decapolis, a
league of ten Greco-Roman cities. Gadara minted its own coins and
flourished under Roman rule, becoming a cultural and intellectual hub.
In 33 BCE, Augustus assigned it to Herod’s Jewish kingdom, but after
Herod’s death in 4 BCE, it joined the Roman province of Syria. The city
thrived during the 2nd and 3rd centuries CE, with major civic monuments
constructed, including theaters, a colonnaded street, and an aqueduct
system. Gadara was known for its cosmopolitan atmosphere, attracting
poets, philosophers, and artists, and was called “a new Athens” by a
poet.
Byzantine Period (4th–7th Centuries CE): Christianity spread
gradually in Gadara, with martyrs like Zacharias and Alpheios recorded
under Emperor Diocletian (303 CE). By 325 CE, Gadara was a bishopric,
with Bishop Sabinus attending the Council of Nicaea. The city remained
prosperous, with churches and a five-aisled basilica built over a Roman
tomb. The Battle of Yarmouk (636 CE) brought Muslim rule, but Gadara
retained regional importance until a series of earthquakes in the 7th
and 8th centuries, particularly in 747 CE, devastated the city, leading
to its decline.
Islamic and Ottoman Periods (7th Century CE–20th
Century): By the 9th century, the name Gadara faded, and the site was
called Mukais or Mkeis, meaning “customs house” or “frontier station” in
Arabic, from which Umm Qais (meaning “Mother of Qais”) derived. In 1596,
Ottoman records list Mkeis as a village with 21 Muslim and 3 Christian
households, paying taxes on wheat, barley, and goats. A small Ottoman
village emerged in the late 19th century on the acropolis, reusing Roman
stones. This village was inhabited until the 1980s, when residents were
relocated to protect the archaeological site. In 1920, a conference of
Arab leaders was held in Umm Qais to address British and French
mandates, and in 1922, King Abdullah I opened a school, the third oldest
in Jordan.
Modern Period: Rediscovered as Gadara by Ulrich Jasper
Seetzen in 1806, Umm Qais was excavated by the Jordanian Department of
Antiquities starting in the 1930s, with major work by the German
Protestant Institute for Archaeology since 1974. The 1967 Arab-Israeli
War damaged the site due to its proximity to the Golan Heights, with the
underground mausoleum used as a field hospital. Today, Umm Qais is a
major tourist destination, with ongoing conservation and community
tourism initiatives.
Umm Qais spans approximately 1,600 meters east-west and 450 meters
north-south, combining Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman ruins with a modern
village. Its structures, built from black basalt and white limestone,
create a striking visual contrast. Key features include:
West
Theatre: The best-preserved monument, constructed in the 2nd century CE
from black basalt, with a capacity of 3,000 spectators. The auditorium
has three tiers of seats divided into wedge-shaped sections, accessed by
four entrances (vomitoria) through a corridor (crypta). The stage
building (scaenae frons) is largely destroyed, but the theater’s setting
against the acropolis offers stunning views. Earthquakes, particularly
in the 8th century, damaged parts of the structure, but restoration
efforts continue.
North Theatre: A larger theater, less
well-preserved, located near the northern edge of the site. It served
similar functions for plays, festivals, and public events. A third,
smaller theater existed at Hammat Gader in the Yarmouk Valley.
Colonnaded Street (Decumanus Maximus): The main east-west street, paved
with original stones and lined with columns, shops, and vaulted
terraces. Chariot wheel tracks are visible, attesting to its use as a
bustling thoroughfare. The street connected key civic structures,
including the nymphaeum and baths.
Five-Aisled Basilica and
Mausoleum: A rare 4th-century basilica, built over a Roman-Byzantine
tomb, features a unique view into the tomb from the church interior. Its
6th-century mosaic floor, now in the museum, and later conversion into a
mosque reflect its multi-era use. The underground mausoleum, discovered
by the Jordanian army in 1967, has a 2-ton basalt door and was used as a
field hospital. A Greek inscription from 355/356 CE in the north
mausoleum reads: “To you I say, passerby: As you are, I was; as I am,
you will be.”
Roman Aqueduct System: A remarkable engineering feat,
constructed between 90–150 CE, this 170-km network of tunnels supplied
water to Gadara and other Decapolis cities (e.g., Abila, Adraa). The
106-km underground section, with 2,900 access shafts up to 70 meters
deep, is the longest known from antiquity. The tunnels, carved beneath
the acropolis, channeled water from eastern springs to the city center
but were damaged by 8th-century earthquakes. Plans to develop the
Aqueduct Tunnel for tourism are underway.
Ottoman Village: Built in
the late 19th century on the acropolis, this village features black
basalt and white limestone houses, a mosque, a girls’ school, and
winding lanes. Inhabited until the 1980s, it was acquired by the
Department of Antiquities for preservation. The village offers a glimpse
into Ottoman rural life, with courtyards and reused Roman stones.
Archaeological Museum (Beit al-Rousan): Housed in an 1860s Ottoman house
of the Rousan family, the museum has two halls. The first displays
ceramics from the Hellenistic to Islamic periods and tomb finds, while
the second showcases Roman statuary, including the seated Tyche statue.
The courtyard contains basalt sarcophagi, column capitals, mosaics, and
two basalt gates. Renovated in 1990, the museum offers views and guided
tours.
Other Structures: The site includes a nymphaeum, public baths,
a hippodrome (partially visible), city gates, and the Eastern Necropolis
with rock-cut tombs. The 16th-century octagonal church and vaulted shops
add to the multi-layered history. A small Byzantine church on the
western terrace, built in the 6th century and destroyed by an
8th-century earthquake, features pillar ruins and domed rooms.
The ruins, less restored than those at Jerash, retain a raw, atmospheric
quality, enhanced by their windswept hilltop setting and the
juxtaposition of Roman and Ottoman elements. Ongoing excavations and
conservation, led by the Jordanian Department of Antiquities and
international teams, continue to uncover new finds.
Umm Qais is a site of profound cultural and religious importance,
reflecting its role as a crossroads of civilizations and faiths:
Christian Significance: Gadara is mentioned in the New Testament
(Matthew 8:28–34) as the site of the “Miracle of the Gadarene Swine,”
where Jesus cast demons from two men into a herd of pigs that drowned in
the Sea of Galilee. This association made Gadara a Christian pilgrimage
destination, particularly in the Byzantine period, with churches and a
bishopric. The basilica’s integration with a Roman tomb may relate to
this miracle.
Intellectual Hub: In Roman times, Gadara was a cultural
center, home to poets and philosophers like Theodorus, who founded a
rhetorical school in Rome, and others who earned it the nickname “a new
Athens.” Its university and cosmopolitan atmosphere attracted scholars,
making it a beacon of Hellenistic and Roman intellectual life.
Multicultural Heritage: The site reflects influences from Greek, Roman,
Byzantine, Islamic, and Ottoman cultures. The aqueduct system, theaters,
and basilica showcase Roman engineering and art, while the Ottoman
village and mosque highlight later Arab traditions. This syncretism
underscores Umm Qais’s role as a trade and cultural junction.
Modern
Cultural Role: Named a “Best Tourism Village” in 2022 by the UNWTO, Umm
Qais is a pioneer of community tourism in Jordan. Local initiatives,
such as beekeeping tours, cooking classes, and handicraft markets,
engage visitors with Bedouin and village traditions. The Yarmouk Nature
Reserve, adjacent to the site, preserves Jordan’s deciduous oak forest
and rare species, enhancing its ecological and cultural appeal.
Geopolitical Context: Umm Qais’s location near the borders of Syria,
Israel, and the Golan Heights gives it a unique geopolitical resonance.
Its views of contested regions, including the Golan Heights, add a layer
of modern significance, with visitors reflecting on the region’s complex
history and conflicts.
Umm Qais offers a blend of archaeological exploration, natural
beauty, and cultural immersion:
Archaeological Exploration:
Visitors can wander the West Theatre, colonnaded street, basilica, and
Ottoman village, with the museum providing context. The underground
mausoleum and aqueduct tunnels (partially accessible) are highlights,
though the latter closes at 4:00 PM.
Panoramic Views: The hilltop
offers 360-degree vistas of the Sea of Galilee, Golan Heights, Yarmouk
River, and, on clear days, Mount Hermon in Lebanon. The restaurant
terrace is a prime spot for sunset views, encompassing three countries.
Hiking and Nature: The Yarmouk Nature Reserve, part of Jordan’s last
deciduous oak forest, offers trails with rare orchids, mountain
gazelles, otters, and birds. Guided hikes, mountain biking, and
eco-tours are available through the Royal Society for the Conservation
of Nature (rscn.org.jo).
Culinary Experiences: The Umm Qais Rest
House, in a former Ottoman school, serves Jordanian dishes like mansaf
and musakhan on a terrace with panoramic views. Meals cost $8–10 USD,
and the restaurant is open from 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM (October–May) or
10:00 PM (June–September). Local chefs offer farm-to-table cooking
classes, showcasing northern Jordan’s biodiversity.
Community
Tourism: Beekeeping tours allow visitors to explore hives and taste
local honey, harvested three times a year. Handicraft markets sell
textiles and artifacts, while homestays and village tours connect
travelers with Bedouin culture.
Stargazing: The site’s minimal light
pollution makes it ideal for astronomy nights, with guided stargazing
available through local operators.
Nearby Sites: Umm Qais pairs well
with day trips to Jerash (80 km away), Ajloun Castle, or Pella. The
Al-Himma hot springs, 10 km north, offer therapeutic bathing (separate
schedules for men and women).
Location and Access:
Umm Qais is 110 km (68 miles) north of Amman,
28 km north of Irbid, and 25 km northwest of Jerash. It’s a 2-hour drive
from Amman or 45 minutes from Irbid.
By Car: The most efficient
option, with free parking at the site. Rent a car in Amman or hire a
taxi for a day trip ($50–100 USD, depending on itinerary). Combine with
Jerash or Ajloun for a full day.
Public Transport: From Amman, take a
bus to Irbid’s south bus station (1.5 hours, ~$2 USD), then transfer to
Irbid’s north bus station and take a minibus to Umm Qais (45 minutes,
~$1 USD). Schedules are irregular, so confirm times locally.
Tours:
Group or private tours from Amman or Irbid, often including Jerash or
Ajloun, cost $30–100 USD per person. Book through hotels, agencies like
Jordan Group Tours, or online platforms (e.g., Viator). Licensed guides
(identifiable by badges) are available at the entrance. Avoid unofficial
guides to prevent scams.
Admission and Hours:
Entry to the
archaeological site costs 5 JOD ($7 USD) for foreigners, 0.25 JOD for
Jordanians, or is free with the Jordan Pass. The museum is included in
the ticket.
Hours: November–April (8:00 AM–4:00 PM), April–May (8:00
AM–5:30 PM), Summer (8:00 AM–6:30 PM), Ramadan (8:30 AM–6:00 PM).
Best Time to Visit:
Spring (March–May) and autumn
(September–November) offer mild weather (15–25°C/59–77°F) and blooming
wildflowers. Summer (June–August) is hot (30–35°C/86–95°F), while winter
(December–February) is cool and rainy but less crowded. Late afternoon
visits maximize clear skies and sunset views.
Practical Tips:
Wear comfortable shoes for uneven terrain and bring water, sunscreen,
and a hat. The site involves moderate walking, with some steep paths.
Use licensed guides for historical insights; negotiate fees upfront
(~10–20 JOD/hour). Beware of unofficial guides like “Amjad,” reported
for overcharging.
Facilities are limited (basic restrooms, no
souvenir shops). The restaurant and museum offer the main amenities.
Respect local customs (modest dress, ask permission for photos). Tipping
guides and restaurant staff is customary (5–10%).
Check border
security advisories due to proximity to Syria and the Golan Heights,
though the site is safe for tourists.
Accommodation:
On-Site:
Umm Qais Rest House offers basic rooms (~$50–80/night) with terrace
views. Homestays with local families (~$30–50/night) provide cultural
immersion.
Nearby: Hotels in Irbid (budget, $20–50/night) or Amman
(budget to luxury, $30–200/night). Book in advance for peak seasons.
Feynan Ecolodge, 3–4 hours away, is a sustainable option for multi-day
trips (~$100–150/night).
Photography: The site’s ruins and vistas are
ideal for photography, especially at sunset. Drones require permits. The
West Theatre, colonnaded street, and museum courtyard are popular spots.