Location: Butrint, Vlore Region
Built: 1819 by
order of Ali Pasha Tepelene
Ali Pasha Castle, also commonly referred to as Porto Palermo Castle (Kalaja e Porto Palermos in Albanian), is a striking coastal fortress located in southern Albania along the Albanian Riviera. It stands on a small peninsula in Porto Palermo Bay, approximately a few kilometers south of the town of Himarë and about 45 kilometers north of Saranda. The castle's position offers commanding views of the Ionian Sea, surrounded by rugged cliffs, lush green hills, and pristine coves, creating a dramatic and picturesque setting. The nearby Llamani Beach and the bay itself are part of an area slated for protection as a designated landscape by the Albanian government, emphasizing its natural and historical value. The fortress is named after Ali Pasha of Tepelena, the Ottoman Albanian ruler who commissioned its construction in the early 19th century, and it remains one of the best-preserved examples of his military architecture in the region.
The history of Ali Pasha Castle is deeply intertwined with the
turbulent era of Ottoman rule in the Balkans and the ambitions of
Ali Pasha Tepelena (1740–1822), a semi-autonomous Ottoman governor
who rose to control vast territories in Albania, Greece, and beyond
through his Pashalik of Yanina. Born in Tepelena, Albania, Ali Pasha
was of Albanian descent, with ancestors who had converted from
Christianity to Islam. He was appointed by the Ottoman Sultan as
governor of Epirus and expanded his influence through military
conquests, alliances, and fortifications. By the late 18th century,
the Porto Palermo area fell under his domain, and he initiated the
castle's construction in 1803 to bolster defenses along his coastal
territories.
The site has ancient roots, tracing back to the
Epirot city of Panormi (or Panormos), an ancient harbor mentioned by
geographers like Strabo and Ptolemy, which served the nearby
fortified city of Chimaira (modern Himarë). During the Byzantine
period, the name evolved to Porto Palermo, possibly influenced by
Sicilian nomenclature. In the Middle Ages, the area was
strategically important for trade, and there are historical
indications of a Venetian fortress built there to protect commercial
interests, though evidence from this period is limited and debated.
Some scholars argue that no significant Venetian or Ottoman
structure predated Ali Pasha's work, while others suggest remnants
of earlier defenses may have existed, such as during the time of
Pyrrhus of Epirus.
Ali Pasha enlisted local craftsman Giorgio
Permettari, along with Italian and French architects and engineers,
to design and build the fortress. An inscription above the entrance
dates the completion to 1804, though some sources point to ongoing
work until 1814. Historical accounts from travelers like William
Martin Leake (who visited in 1803) describe the fort as modest at
the time, with only 4 or 5 cannons and a small garrison of 10 men
armed with two four-pounders. Ali Pasha even offered the castle and
port to the British Royal Navy, indicating it was not deemed
critically strategic to him personally. François Pouqueville,
another contemporary observer in 1806, noted it as a square
bastioned structure near warehouses, a custom-house, and a Greek
church, connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus.
The castle
served defensive purposes from antiquity through World War II, but
under Ali Pasha, it was part of a broader network of fortifications
to secure his pashalik's coastal flank against rivals, including the
Ottomans themselves. Ali Pasha's rule ended dramatically in 1822
when he was assassinated by Ottoman forces after rebelling against
the Sultan. Post-Ottoman, the site coexisted with later structures,
such as Cold War-era bunkers, highlighting Albania's layered
military history.
Architecturally, Ali Pasha Castle exemplifies early 19th-century
military engineering, blending functionality with the natural terrain.
The fortress is triangular in shape, measuring approximately 150 meters
by 400 meters, though this may encompass the peninsula's dimensions. Its
walls rise up to 20 meters high, constructed from thick stone to
withstand artillery, with three massive bastions at the corners designed
for mounting cannons. Originally built on a small island, it was
connected to the mainland via landfill, creating a narrow strip of land
for access.
The entrance is positioned in the middle of the southern
wall, featuring a sloping wall with a defensive gap for surveillance and
a terrace above for additional protection. Inside, the layout includes a
central hexagonal chamber with a domed ceiling supported by six large
pillars, which provides access to various rooms and terraces.
Rectangular chambers housed soldiers, while warehouses stored supplies.
A stone staircase leads to an open southern terrace, offering panoramic
views and serving as an observation post. The bastions and walls include
protected guard houses with stone roofs, enhancing defensive
capabilities. The overall design reflects influences from French
military architecture, adapted to the hilly landscape, which naturally
bolsters its defenses.
A notable feature is the white marble plaque
at the entrance, bearing a Greek inscription composed by Ioannis
Vilaras, a Greek poet in Ali Pasha's court. The plaque, measuring 49 cm
high, 59 cm wide, and 5 cm thick, with 3.5 cm capital letters, spans
nine lines. The first line dates it to February 5, 1814, while the
verses praise the castle as a shelter for sailors in stormy Panormi Bay,
extol Ali Pasha's military prowess, and highlight cultural elements like
the role of Chimariote women in building traditions. The use of Greek,
the court's official language, reflects the multilingual context of the
region and Ali Pasha's efforts to unify diverse ethnic groups. Debates
surround the inscription's date, with some linking it to post-Napoleonic
events or even suggesting a connection to Ali Pasha's death in 1822 due
to its tombstone-like frame.
Beyond its military role, the castle is enveloped in romantic legends. One popular tale claims Ali Pasha built it as a gesture of love for his young Christian wife, Vasiliqia (or Kyra Vassiliki), transforming the fortress into a symbol of romance amid his otherwise ruthless reputation. This story, though possibly apocryphal, adds a layer of mystique, portraying the castle as a blend of fortification and personal sanctuary. The inscription by Vilaras further immortalizes it in literature, praising Ali Pasha's greatness and linking the site to broader Albanian and Greek historical narratives.
Ali Pasha Castle holds immense historical and cultural significance as a testament to Albania's Ottoman-era heritage and Ali Pasha's legacy as a formidable ruler who bridged Albanian, Greek, and Ottoman worlds. It represents a pivotal chapter in regional defense strategies and cultural exchanges, with the Greek inscription underscoring linguistic diversity and national identities in the early 19th century. Today, the castle is a major tourist attraction, owned and managed by the Albanian state, and is open to the public with an admission fee supporting conservation efforts. Visitors can explore its well-preserved interiors, though they may be dark, and enjoy breathtaking sea views from the battlements. Nearby features include the Kep i Palermos Lighthouse, a 10-meter solar-powered structure with an octagonal tower, and the area's natural beauty, which earned it a spot in Huffington Post's "15 Undiscovered European Destinations" in 2014. Preservation initiatives continue to protect it from modern threats, ensuring it remains a bridge between Albania's past and present.