Location: 3 km (2 mi) West from Cahersiveen Map
Constructed: 16th century
Ballycarbery Castle, located approximately 3 kilometers (2 miles) from Cahersiveen in County Kerry, Ireland, is a striking ruin perched on a grassy hill overlooking a tidal estuary of the Fertha River and the Atlantic coast. Situated on the Iveragh Peninsula along the scenic Ring of Kerry, this 16th-century castle is one of the most impressive and picturesque castle ruins in the region, despite its state of disrepair. Its ivy-clad stone walls, dramatic coastal setting, and historical significance make it a compelling subject for an in-depth exploration.
Ballycarbery Castle’s history is rooted in the
medieval and early modern periods of Ireland, with evidence suggesting a
residence existed on the site as early as 1398, when the death of Taghd
MacCarthaigh was recorded there. However, the current ruins are from a
castle constructed in the 16th century, primarily associated with the
powerful McCarthy Mor clan, one of Ireland’s greatest medieval
dynasties. The McCarthy Mors were successful traders, and the castle’s
strategic location near the estuary was likely chosen for commercial
rather than defensive purposes, facilitating trade along the coast.
It remains uncertain whether the McCarthy Mors themselves resided in
the castle or if it was occupied by their wardens, the O’Connells, who
managed the property on their behalf. Following the death of Daniel
McCarthy Mor in the 1590s, the castle was granted to Sir Valentine
Browne, a prominent landowner based at Ross Castle near Killarney. The
castle briefly returned to McCarthy control in the early 17th century
but faced significant destruction during the War of the Three Kingdoms.
In 1652, Parliamentary forces under Oliver Cromwell bombarded the castle
with cannon fire, causing extensive damage that marked the beginning of
its decline into ruin.
In the 18th century, the Lauder family
built a house attached to the castle’s bawn (defensive) wall,
incorporating some of the castle’s stonework. This house was demolished
in the early 20th century, leaving the castle ruins as the primary
structure. Since then, the castle has been exposed to the elements, with
no significant preservation efforts undertaken, contributing to its
current state of decay.
Architectural Features
Ballycarbery
Castle was originally a tower house, a common type of fortified
residence in medieval Ireland, but its current layout is described as
L-shaped due to the loss of significant portions of the structure. The
castle was once surrounded by a high bawn wall, of which less than half
remains, punctuated by arrow slits for defense. The structure itself is
rectangular with a projecting corner tower, particularly notable in the
northeast section, where the only remaining vaulted chamber is located.
Ground Floor
The ground floor originally consisted of several
chambers, but only one, located in the northeast tower, retains its
vaulted roof and intact walls. This chamber features a high, arched
ceiling and contains a narrow, awkward staircase leading to the first
floor. The other ground-floor chambers are open to the sky, with their
southern walls missing, exposing the interior to the elements. The
layout suggests that these chambers were designed for storage or service
purposes, typical of tower houses.
First Floor
The first floor
is accessible via two staircases: one within the vaulted chamber, which
is in relatively good condition, and another external staircase that is
damaged and hazardous. The first floor is largely open, covered in
grass, and features two large rooms, one of which contains a window
offering views of the Fertha River and the surrounding landscape. The
presence of corbels (stone supports) at second-story height indicates
that the first floor likely housed large, vaulted halls, suggesting the
castle’s grandeur in its prime. Some smaller rooms and windows remain,
but the back wall’s absence makes the space feel exposed.
Upper
Floors and Current State
The second floor is inaccessible due to the
collapse of the back wall, where steps likely once existed. Historical
accounts suggest the castle originally had four stories, with a
crenelated tower at the top, now heavily deteriorated and overtaken by
moss and grass. The castle’s exterior is covered in ivy, particularly on
the rear wall, which adds to its romantic, fairy-tale aesthetic but also
conceals beehives that pose a hazard to visitors. The entire back wall
has crumbled, and approximately 60% of the bawn wall has been lost,
either through natural decay or the repurposing of stones for local
construction after the 1652 attack.
Since 2017, Ballycarbery Castle has been closed to the
public due to its location on private land and concerns over safety, as
the crumbling stonework poses significant risks. Visitors can view the
castle from a small parking area approximately 100 meters away, where an
information board provides historical context. Signs prohibiting
trespassing and electric fences reinforce the restricted access, a
change attributed to the landowner’s concerns about liability following
incidents of visitors climbing the ruins and sustaining injuries. Prior
to 2017, visitors could explore the grounds and even climb parts of the
ruins, though this was always at their own risk.
The castle’s
isolation and restricted access contribute to its relative obscurity
compared to other Ring of Kerry attractions, making it a quieter
destination even during peak tourist seasons. Its photogenic quality,
particularly during sunrise or sunset when the light enhances the
texture of the stone and ivy, makes it a favorite for photographers. The
castle is often used as a backdrop for wedding photos, though permission
from the landowner is required.
A local legend claims that Ballycarbery Castle was
connected by a tunnel to the nearby Leacanabuaile and Cahergall Stone
Forts, ancient ring forts located a short distance away. The presence of
a souterrain (underground passage) and small tunnels in the forts lends
some credence to this story, though no definitive evidence of such a
tunnel exists. These forts, dating back to the early medieval period,
are well-preserved and open to the public, making them excellent
complementary sites to visit.
Other nearby attractions include
the Old Barracks Heritage Centre in Cahersiveen, the Daniel O’Connell
Memorial Church, and Valentia Island, home to the Skellig Experience
Visitor Centre, which provides insights into the nearby Skellig Michael
monastic site. The castle’s location along the Ring of Kerry also places
it near scenic drives and natural landmarks like the Kerry Cliffs and
Geokaun Mountain.
Ballycarbery Castle is a listed building, but little has been done to preserve it, leading to ongoing deterioration from weathering and neglect. After the 1652 bombardment, much of the castle’s stone was taken for local construction, further reducing its integrity. Discussions on platforms like Reddit highlight local frustration over the lack of government intervention to protect the castle, especially compared to other heritage sites in Kerry that receive maintenance. The castle’s private ownership complicates preservation efforts, as the landowner has prioritized safety and liability over public access or restoration. Some advocate for its classification as a heritage asset to secure funding for stabilization, but no progress has been made.
To reach Ballycarbery Castle, visitors should follow
directions from Cahersiveen, locally known as the “over the water” area.
From the town, drive past the library and the Old Barracks (Cahersiveen
Castle) on Bridge Street, cross the estuary bridge, and continue for
about 600 meters to a crossroads. Turn left, drive 1.4 kilometers, and
take a left at the signposted turn for the castle. The parking area is
100 meters further on the left. The narrow country roads require
cautious driving, and guided tours are recommended for those unfamiliar
with the area.
The best time for photography is in the evening
from the nearby beach, where the castle’s silhouette against the sunset
or high tide creates a dramatic effect. Visitors should bring
comfortable shoes, rain gear, and a camera, but must respect the
no-trespassing signs to avoid legal or safety issues.
Ballycarbery Castle’s ruinous state enhances its
romantic and evocative appeal, as noted by travelers who find its
decrepit condition hauntingly beautiful. The ivy-covered walls, set
against the wild Kerry landscape, evoke a sense of timelessness and
mystery, aligning with Ireland’s reputation for fairy-tale-like scenery.
Its relative solitude, compared to more tourist-heavy sites, allows
visitors to appreciate its grandeur in a serene setting, fostering a
connection to Ireland’s medieval past.
The castle’s story also
reflects broader themes in Irish history: the rise and fall of Gaelic
lords, the impact of English conquest, and the challenges of preserving
heritage in a modern context. Its current state serves as a poignant
reminder of the fragility of historical sites and the tension between
private ownership and public access.