Location: Ballymote, County Sligo Map
Constructed: c. 1300
Ballymote Castle (Irish: Caisleán Bhaile an Mhóta, meaning "castle of the town of the motte/mound") is a large, rectangular, keepless Norman castle located in the townland of Carrownanty, on the outskirts of Ballymote in southern County Sligo, Ireland. Built around 1300 by Richard Óg de Burgh, 2nd Earl of Ulster (also known as the Red Earl), it is considered the last and one of the mightiest Norman castles in Connacht. Historically known as Átha Cliath an Chorainn ("The Ford of the Hurdles of Corran"), the castle was strategically constructed to protect de Burgh’s newly acquired territories in Sligo. Its imposing limestone structure, with thick walls and a symmetrical design, reflects Anglo-Norman military architecture, drawing comparisons to Beaumaris Castle in Wales. Despite its ruinous state today, Ballymote Castle remains a significant historical site, maintained by the Office of Public Works (OPW) and open to the public.
Ballymote Castle’s history is marked by its role as a
contested stronghold during Ireland’s medieval and early modern periods,
changing hands multiple times between Anglo-Norman lords, Gaelic clans,
and English forces. Below is a detailed timeline and analysis of its
historical significance:
Construction (c. 1300): The castle was
commissioned by Richard Óg de Burgh, the Red Earl of Ulster, a powerful
Anglo-Norman noble who controlled vast territories in Ulster and
Connacht. Built to secure his possessions in County Sligo, Ballymote was
one of the strongest fortresses in Connacht at the time. Its
construction followed the establishment of an earlier motte in the area,
and de Burgh also built the nearby Red Earl’s Road from Boyle to
Collooney, facilitating regional control. The castle’s design, with
10-foot-thick walls and a fortified gatehouse, reflects the strategic
and architectural influence of King Edward I’s castles, particularly
Beaumaris in Wales.
Early Conflicts (14th Century):
1317: The
castle was captured by the O’Connors of Sligo, marking the first of many
Gaelic seizures during local power struggles.
1347: The Mac Diarmada
(MacDermot) clan took control, holding it until 1381 when the MacDonaghs
gained ownership.
The castle’s early history reflects the instability
of Anglo-Norman control in Connacht, as Gaelic clans frequently
challenged their authority.
Book of Ballymote (1390s): Ballymote is
closely associated with one of Ireland’s most significant medieval
manuscripts, the Book of Ballymote, likely written at or near the castle
under the patronage of the MacDermot clan. This 14th-century manuscript
contains key texts of Irish literature, including the Lebor Gabála Érenn
(Book of the Taking of Ireland), genealogies, and translations of
classical works like the Iliad and Odyssey into Irish. The manuscript,
now housed in the Royal Irish Academy, underscores Ballymote’s role as a
center of learning and culture.
16th–17th Centuries:
1571: The
castle was held by the O’Connor Sligo, who surrendered it to James I of
England and had it regranted, reflecting the Tudor policy of “surrender
and regrant” to integrate Gaelic lords into the English system.
1577–1584: The castle briefly fell into English hands before being
sacked by Richard Bingham, Governor of Connacht, in 1584 during the
Tudor conquest. In 1588, it was burned by the O’Connors, O’Hartes, and
O’Dowds, coinciding with the Spanish Armada’s presence in Ireland.
1598: The English surrendered the castle to the MacDonagh clan, who sold
it to Red Hugh O’Donnell for £400 and 300 cows. O’Donnell used Ballymote
as a base before marching to the disastrous Battle of Kinsale in 1601.
1602: The O’Donnells surrendered the castle to the English, by which
time it was already in poor condition.
1633: The Taaffe family
briefly owned the castle but surrendered it to English Parliamentary
forces in 1652 during the Cromwellian conquest.
Williamite Wars
(1690): During the Williamite War, Captain Terence MacDonagh held
Ballymote for King James II but was forced to surrender to Arthur
Forbes, 1st Earl of Granard, after an artillery attack in 1690. The
castle was heavily damaged, its fortifications rendered useless, and its
moat filled in, leading to its final abandonment.
Later History: By
the 17th century, Ballymote Castle was largely abandoned and fell into
ruin. In the 18th century, the estate passed to John Fitzmaurice (Lord
Shelburne), who attempted to develop Ballymote as a center for the linen
industry by settling Protestant weavers from Ulster. The castle itself,
however, remained a ruin, its grounds later repurposed for community
use.
Ballymote’s turbulent history reflects its strategic importance
in Connacht, serving as a flashpoint in conflicts between Anglo-Norman,
Gaelic, and English forces. Its association with the Book of Ballymote
also highlights its cultural significance, making it more than just a
military stronghold.
Ballymote Castle is a large, rectangular, keepless enclosure castle,
notable for its symmetrical design and robust Norman military
architecture. Constructed from limestone, it showcases the strategic and
aesthetic prowess of its Anglo-Norman builders. Below are its key
architectural elements:
Overall Design: The castle is nearly
square, with an inner courtyard measuring approximately 150 feet by 150
feet. It lacks a central keep, a feature typical of “keepless” enclosure
castles, which relied on fortified walls and towers for defense. Its
layout is highly symmetrical, drawing comparisons to Beaumaris Castle in
Wales, built by Edward I.
Curtain Walls: The outer walls are 10 feet
thick and originally rose to a significant height, though much of the
upper structure has deteriorated. The walls form a pentagonal ring,
reinforced by towers, and were designed to withstand prolonged sieges.
Gatehouse: The most prominent feature is the large gatehouse on the
north wall, a rectangular structure flanked by twin D-shaped towers. The
double-faced walls of the gate towers were designed to prevent
undermining, and narrow 3-foot-wide passages within the walls provided
access to defensive positions. The gatehouse’s fortified design
underscores the castle’s military purpose.
Towers:
Corner
Towers: The castle has 3/4-round towers at each corner, providing
defensive coverage and housing rooms or lookout posts.
Mid-Wall
Towers: D-shaped towers are located midway along the east and west
curtain walls, further strengthening the fortifications.
Sallyport: A
small gateway in the south wall, possibly used as a sallyport (a
secondary exit for surprise attacks or escapes), adds to the castle’s
defensive versatility.
Courtyard: The large central courtyard, now
empty, likely contained wooden or stone buildings for residential and
administrative purposes, though no evidence of a keep exists. The
courtyard’s size suggests it could accommodate troops, livestock, or
community gatherings during sieges.
Defensive Features: The castle
originally had a moat, filled in after 1690, and its thick walls and
towers were designed to repel attackers. The D-shaped towers and
gatehouse allowed defenders to cover all approaches, making Ballymote
nearly impregnable in its prime.
The castle’s design reflects a
balance between defense and prestige, intended to project the Red Earl’s
power while safeguarding his territories. Its similarities to Beaumaris
suggest Anglo-Norman architects brought advanced engineering techniques
to Ireland, though Ballymote’s keepless layout is distinctively Irish.
Ballymote Castle is a ruin, with its outer walls, gatehouse, and
towers partially intact but its internal structures long gone.
Maintained by the Office of Public Works, the site is open to the public
and has been repurposed as a community park. Below is a detailed look at
its current state and visitor experience:
Physical Condition: The
castle’s limestone walls and towers remain imposing, though the upper
sections have eroded, and the interior is an empty courtyard with grass
and scattered stones. The gatehouse and D-shaped towers are the
best-preserved features, but the site is considered unsafe to enter due
to structural instability, so exploration is limited to the exterior and
grounds. The filled-in moat is no longer visible, and the castle’s
fortifications were deliberately dismantled after 1690. Recent
preservation work by the OPW has stabilized the ruins, but it remains an
“ivy-clad shell.”
Access:
Location: The castle is on the R296
road (Ballymote to Tubbercurry), opposite Ballymote railway station and
near the Church of the Immaculate Conception. It is easily accessible
from the town center, about 24 km southeast of Sligo town and 193 km
west of Dublin.
Entry: The castle grounds are freely accessible
year-round, with no admission fee. Access is through the grounds of the
Ballymote Community Nursing Unit, and visitors can walk around the
exterior and courtyard, though entering the structure itself is
discouraged for safety reasons.
Parking: Parking is available near
the entrance, opposite the railway station, or at the nearby Church of
the Immaculate Conception parking lot. Visitors should exercise caution
when re-entering the R296 due to traffic.
Exploration: Visitors
can:
Walk around the castle’s perimeter to admire the gatehouse,
D-shaped towers, and corner towers.
Explore the surrounding park,
which includes walking trails, picnic benches, and a small stream with
wild ducks, creating a serene setting.
View a placard (though
algae-covered and hard to read) providing basic information about the
castle’s history.
The visit typically takes 30–60 minutes, depending
on time spent in the park or photographing the ruins.
Atmosphere:
Reviewers describe Ballymote as a “huge old castle ruin” with a haunting
yet peaceful ambiance, enhanced by its rural setting and the presence of
wildlife like ducks. The park-like grounds make it family-friendly, with
ample space for walking or picnicking. The castle’s size and history
evoke a sense of stepping into Ireland’s medieval past.
Accessibility
Considerations: The site is partially accessible, with flat, grassy
grounds suitable for most visitors. However, the uneven terrain and lack
of paved paths may pose challenges for wheelchair users or those with
mobility issues. The castle’s interior is off-limits, so exploration is
limited to the exterior, which is accessible without climbing.
Community Use: The grounds are used for local gatherings and events,
reflecting the town’s integration of the castle into its cultural life.
A nearby private home with castle-like architecture adds an intriguing
modern contrast.
Ballymote Castle holds a prominent place in Irish history and
culture, reflecting both its military and intellectual contributions:
Norman Legacy: As the last Norman castle in Connacht, Ballymote
symbolizes the Anglo-Norman attempt to dominate western Ireland. Its
construction by Richard de Burgh underscores the strategic importance of
Sligo in the medieval period.
Gaelic Resistance: The castle’s
frequent capture by Gaelic clans like the O’Connors, MacDermots, and
MacDonaghs highlights the resilience of Irish lords against Anglo-Norman
and English rule. Its role in conflicts like the Battle of Kinsale
(1601) ties it to pivotal moments in Irish history.
Book of
Ballymote: The manuscript’s creation at or near the castle establishes
Ballymote as a center of medieval Irish scholarship. Its preservation of
Gaelic literature and classical translations underscores the cultural
richness of the region.
Local Identity: Ballymote town, with a
population of 1,711 in 2022, embraces the castle as a symbol of its
heritage. The castle’s integration into a community park and its mention
in local events, like the Ballymote Heritage Weekend, reflect its
enduring significance.
Notable Connections: The town is associated
with figures like Brother Walfrid, founder of Glasgow Celtic Football
Club, and Michael Corcoran, a brigadier general in the American Civil
War, adding to its historical prominence. A monument to the 69th
Infantry Regiment (“The Fighting 69th”), unveiled by Michael Bloomberg
in 2006, includes a piece of World Trade Center steel, linking Ballymote
to global history.
Ballymote Castle faces several challenges, but its status as a
National Monument ensures ongoing protection:
Structural Safety:
The castle’s ruinous state makes it unsafe to enter, limiting
exploration to the exterior. Falling stones or unstable walls pose
risks, necessitating regular maintenance.
Natural Deterioration: Ivy
growth and weathering threaten the limestone walls, though the OPW’s
preservation efforts have stabilized the structure.
Limited Signage:
The single, algae-covered placard provides minimal information,
hindering visitor understanding. Improved signage or digital resources
could enhance the experience.
Balancing Access and Preservation: The
castle’s use as a community park increases foot traffic, risking minor
damage to the grounds. The OPW must balance public access with
conservation needs.
Conservation efforts focus on stabilizing the
walls, clearing vegetation, and maintaining the park. The castle’s
designation as a National Monument prohibits unauthorized alterations,
ensuring its long-term survival.
To make the most of a visit to Ballymote Castle, consider the
following:
Best Time to Visit: Spring (April–May) or summer
(June–August) for pleasant weather and drier grounds. Autumn
(September–October) offers scenic foliage, while winter may be wet and
muddy.
What to Bring:
Sturdy shoes for grassy terrain,
especially after rain.
Rain gear, as the site is exposed and Sligo’s
weather is unpredictable.
A camera for capturing the castle’s
dramatic ruins and rural surroundings.
A picnic to enjoy in the
park-like grounds.
Respecting the Site: Avoid entering the castle’s
interior due to safety concerns. Follow Leave No Trace principles,
removing all litter and respecting the historical site.
Practical
Information:
Getting There: Ballymote is on the Dublin–Sligo railway
line, with 5–7 daily trains from Dublin Connolly (3 hours, €20). The
castle is a 5-minute walk from Ballymote station. Local Link bus Route
977 connects Ballymote to Sligo and Castlerea (€2.80). By car, take the
N4/N17 from Dublin, branching west after Castlebaldwin (30 minutes from
Sligo town). Ireland West Airport (Knock) is 30 minutes away.
Navigation Tip: The entrance is opposite the railway station but can be
hard to spot. Use the address of the nearby Ballymote Community Nursing
Unit for GPS.
Nearby Attractions:
Carrowmore Megalithic
Cemetery (25 km): Ireland’s largest megalithic cemetery, with tombs
dating from 4840–4370 BC.
Caves of Keash (5 km): A series of
limestone caves with mythological and archaeological significance.
Temple House (2 km): A Georgian mansion and estate with a 13th-century
Knights Templar castle ruin, offering accommodation and dining.
Slish
Wood and Lough Gill (20 km): Scenic walking trails and the Lake Isle of
Innisfree, immortalized by W.B. Yeats.
Moygara Castle (15 km): A
16th-century O’Gara clan castle overlooking Lough Gara.
Ballymote
Town: Explore the Market House, local craft shops, and the library on
Teeling Street. Thursday market days feature livestock auctions and
stalls.
Combine with a Regional Tour: Ballymote is a gateway to
Sligo’s attractions, including Sligo town (24 km), the Cliffs of Moher
(via Galway, 150 km), or the Wild Atlantic Way’s beaches and surfing
spots.