Barberstown Castle

Barberstown Castle

Location: Straffan, County Kildare Map

Constructed: 1288

Official site

 

Barberstown Castle, located in Straffan, County Kildare, Ireland, is a historic 13th-century castle that has been transformed into a luxurious four-star country house hotel. Nestled on 20 acres of meticulously landscaped gardens in the heart of Ireland’s Ancient East, the castle is a striking blend of medieval, Elizabethan, Georgian, and Victorian architecture, reflecting its 800-year history. Built in 1288 by Nicholas Barby, it has had 37 owners, including notable figures like musician Eric Clapton, and has survived centuries of conflict, confiscation, and cultural shifts. Today, it offers a unique combination of historical charm and modern amenities, making it a premier destination for travelers seeking a romantic, historical, or cultural experience just 25 minutes from Dublin.

 

History

Barberstown Castle’s history spans over seven centuries, reflecting Ireland’s complex medieval and modern past. Its story is one of resilience, adaptation, and cultural significance, shaped by its strategic location in the fertile plains of County Kildare and its role in defending the Anglo-Norman Pale.

Foundation (1288): The castle was built by Nicholas Barby, an Anglo-Norman lord, on lands originally owned by the Fitzgerald family, one of the most powerful Norman families in Ireland. Constructed as a fortress to protect the village of Straffan and the surrounding area, Barberstown was part of the Pale—a fortified region encircling Dublin to secure English rule against Gaelic Irish clans, particularly the Ui Faolain, who attempted to burn the castle in 1310. The original structure was a defensive tower house, typical of Norman architecture, designed to withstand attacks.
Medieval Period (13th–16th Centuries): For its first two centuries, Barberstown was frequently targeted by Gaelic clans, reflecting the ongoing tensions between Anglo-Norman settlers and native Irish. The castle’s thick, sloping walls were built for defense, underscoring its role as a military outpost. Despite these challenges, it remained a key stronghold in north Kildare, passing through various owners who maintained its strategic importance.

Early Modern Period (17th–18th Centuries):
1630: The castle was owned by William Sutton, a member of a prominent local family, indicating its continued significance among the Anglo-Irish elite.
1689: During the Williamite Wars, following the accession of King James II, the castle was confiscated from Lord Kingston by the Earl of Tyrconnell, a Jacobite supporter. It was then leased to Roger Kelly by the Commissioners of the Revenue, marking a period of political upheaval.
1703: Bartholomew Vanhomrigh, former mayor of Dublin and father of Vanessa (famed for her connection to Jonathan Swift), purchased the castle and 335 acres for £1,033, adding to its illustrious ownership history.
Colley Family: In the 17th and 18th centuries, the Colley family expanded the castle, adding an Elizabethan-style wing and a Georgian residence, transforming it from a fortress into a grand country house. These additions reflected the castle’s shift from a military to a residential role as the Pale’s defenses became less necessary after the Williamite Wars (1690s).
19th Century (Barton Family): In 1830, the castle passed to the Barton family, prominent wine merchants and landowners. The Bartons introduced Victorian design elements, including landscaped gardens with a famous Weeping Willow tree, enhancing the estate’s aesthetic appeal. During the turbulent early 20th century, including Ireland’s War of Independence, the Bartons used the castle as a safe haven for local families, cementing its role as a community anchor.

20th Century:
1971: Norah Devlin opened Barberstown as a 10-bedroom guesthouse, one of the first Irish country houses to welcome public guests, marking its transition into a hospitality venue.
1979–1987: Musician Eric Clapton owned the castle, hosting famous rock stars like Bob Dylan and Sean Connery in the Green Room and Castle Keep, where music sessions reportedly lasted into the early hours. Clapton’s ownership added a modern cultural layer to the castle’s history.
Modern Era: Since 1971, Barberstown has operated as a luxury hotel, expanding to 55 rooms by the 1990s. A 1996 renovation uncovered a hidden tunnel linking the castle to Straffan’s parish church, likely used to hide priests during the Penal Laws (1695–1829), when Catholic worship was suppressed. The castle’s 37 owners, whose names adorn the bedroom doors, have each left a mark, from agricultural innovators to war veterans and celebrities, making it a living chronicle of Irish history.

Cultural Significance:
Role in the Pale: Barberstown was a key defensive structure in the Pale, protecting Dublin from Gaelic incursions, and its survival reflects the Anglo-Norman legacy in Kildare.
Architectural Evolution: The castle’s blend of medieval, Elizabethan, Georgian, and Victorian styles encapsulates Ireland’s architectural history, making it a valuable historical artifact.
Modern Cultural Hub: Its ownership by Eric Clapton and its current role as a venue for weddings, conferences, and cultural events (e.g., the Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride) highlight its adaptability and enduring appeal.
Local Legend: A tale claims one owner was buried in the castle’s tower to exploit a lease loophole, ensuring the family retained the property without increased rent. While unverified, this story adds to the castle’s mystique.

 

Architectural Features

Barberstown Castle is a unique architectural palimpsest, combining elements from multiple eras while preserving its medieval core. Its design reflects both its defensive origins and its later transformation into a grand country house. Below are the key architectural features:

Original Structure (1288):
Tower House (Castle Keep): The core of Barberstown is a Norman tower house built by Nicholas Barby, characterized by thick, inward-sloping walls (over 1 meter thick at the base) designed for defense. The walls thin as they rise, making upper rooms larger than those on the ground floor, a typical feature of Norman battlements. The keep remains a focal point, used today for private dining and events.
Defensive Design: The original structure was built to withstand attacks, with narrow windows and fortified walls, reflecting its role in protecting the Pale.
Elizabethan Wing (17th Century): Added by the Colley family, this wing features ornate, intricate detailing typical of Elizabethan architecture, with decorative stonework and larger windows that indicate a shift toward residential use. The Elizabethan style contrasts with the austere Norman keep, adding elegance to the complex.
Georgian Residence (18th Century): Also introduced by the Colleys, the Georgian addition is characterized by symmetrical design, sash windows, and classical proportions, reflecting the architectural trends of the period. This wing enhanced the castle’s status as a symbol of wealth and prestige.
Victorian Extensions and Gardens (19th Century): The Barton family added Victorian elements, including interior furnishings and the 20-acre landscaped gardens. The gardens feature manicured lawns, vibrant flower beds, a famous Weeping Willow tree, and pathways, creating a serene setting. The Victorian influence is also evident in the castle’s interior decor, with opulent furnishings and fireplaces.
20th-Century Additions: The castle’s conversion into a hotel in 1971 and subsequent expansions (e.g., 1996 renovations) added modern amenities while preserving historical features. The discovery of the tunnel to Straffan’s church during renovations highlights the castle’s hidden historical layers.

Interior Features:
Banquet Hall (16th Century): A grand space used for weddings and gala dinners, featuring high ceilings and historical ambiance.
Medieval Keep: The original tower house, now used for private dining and events, retains its medieval character with stone walls and historical artifacts.
Bedrooms: The 55 rooms, including Superior, Four Poster, and Junior Suites, are individually styled with antiques, chandeliers, and rich fabrics, reflecting the castle’s various eras. Each room is named after a former owner, from Nicholas Barby to Eric Clapton, adding a personal historical touch.
Public Areas: The Haggard (a traditional Irish pub), Garden Bar, and Edwardian Tea Rooms feature cozy fireplaces, wicker furniture, and paintings by local artist Susan Harris, blending historical charm with modern comfort.

Architectural Significance:
The castle’s multi-era design makes it a rare example of continuous architectural evolution, with each addition harmoniously integrated to maintain its historical integrity.
The preservation of the 1288 keep alongside later wings showcases the transition from defensive to residential architecture in Ireland.
The Victorian gardens and modern hotel facilities demonstrate the castle’s adaptability, balancing heritage with contemporary hospitality.

 

Current Condition and Visitor Experience

Barberstown Castle is a well-maintained, fully operational four-star hotel, recognized by Fáilte Ireland, Ireland’s Blue Book, and Historic Hotels of Europe. Its 20-acre estate and historical features are meticulously cared for, offering a luxurious yet authentic experience. Below is a detailed look at its current state and what visitors can expect:

Physical Condition: The castle is in excellent condition, with the medieval keep, Elizabethan, Georgian, and Victorian wings sympathetically restored to preserve their historical character. The 1996 renovations strengthened the structure and uncovered the tunnel, while ongoing maintenance ensures the gardens and interiors remain pristine. The castle’s stonework, fireplaces, and antiques are well-preserved, creating an immersive historical ambiance.

Access:
Location: Situated in Straffan, 25 km west of Dublin and 30 minutes from Dublin Airport, Barberstown is easily accessible via the M4/M50 motorways. Directions include taking the Straffan/Maynooth exit (Junction 7) from the M4 and following signs to the castle. Free parking is available on-site, and nearby buses connect to Dublin.
Entry: The castle operates as a hotel, with public access primarily for guests, diners, or event attendees. Non-guests can visit the Tea Rooms, Garden Bar, or Haggard Pub, or book dining experiences. Room rates start at approximately $242 per night, varying by season and room type.

Accommodation:
Rooms: The 55 rooms are divided into Superior, Four Poster, and Junior Suites, each uniquely decorated with antiques, chandeliers, and period furnishings. Modern amenities include free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, and private bathrooms with hairdryers. Four Poster rooms feature romantic, historical charm, while Junior Suites offer spacious living areas. Rooms are named after past owners, enhancing the historical experience.
Comfort: Guests praise the spacious, tranquil rooms, comfortable beds, and blend of old-world charm with modern facilities. Recent reviews highlight the quality of four-poster beds and showers.
Restrictions: The hotel is not child- or pet-friendly, catering to adults seeking a romantic or historical escape.

Dining and Entertainment:
Barton Rooms Restaurant: Open Friday and Saturday evenings, this fine-dining venue offers French-influenced Irish cuisine using locally sourced, seasonal produce, earning AA and Michelin guide recommendations. Signature dishes include pork belly, salmon fillet, and beetroot gnocchi.
Garden Bar: Offers casual dining with sharing plates and superb dishes like calamari and chicken wings, praised for quality and presentation.
Haggard Pub: A traditional Irish pub serving high-quality pub food and hosting a hog roast for events, as noted in wedding reviews.
Edwardian Tea Rooms: Open from 10:00 AM, serving afternoon tea, scones, sandwiches, and desserts in a cozy setting with fireplaces and wicker furniture. Lunch is available from 12:00 PM to 7:00 PM, with a Table d’Hôte menu on Mondays.
Live Entertainment: Weekend music performances enhance the castle’s lively atmosphere.

Event Facilities:
Weddings: The 16th-century Banquet Hall and grounds are popular for weddings, with experienced staff ensuring seamless events. Couples praise the attention to detail, from cake-cutting with a castle sword to hog roasts in the Haggard. The castle hosted a memorable 2024 wedding for 70 guests, earning rave reviews for food, service, and ambiance.
Conferences and Private Dining: The Medieval Keep and conferencing suites accommodate groups of 2 to 200, ideal for corporate events or private parties.

Grounds and Activities:
Gardens: The 20-acre estate features Victorian gardens with a Weeping Willow, flower beds, and a field of poppies (noted by guests as a delightful surprise). Guests can stroll, relax on outdoor seating, or enjoy picnics.
Local Attractions: The castle is a base for exploring Ireland’s Ancient East, including the Irish National Stud and Japanese Gardens (30 minutes), Kildare Village shopping outlet (30 minutes), Newgrange (a Neolithic site, 45 minutes), and Glendalough (40 minutes). Activities like golf at the K Club (0.5 miles), horse riding, archery, and canal walks are nearby. Guests receive a 10% discount at Kildare Village.
Atmosphere: Visitors describe Barberstown as a “striking 800-year-old castle” with a romantic, historical ambiance, enhanced by roaring fires, heavy antiques, and rich fabrics. The staff, including named employees like Bethan, Heather, Nazir, and Leona, are frequently praised for their professionalism and warmth, contributing to a welcoming experience.
Accessibility Considerations: The castle’s historical design may pose challenges for those with mobility issues, with uneven floors and stairs in older sections. While some public areas are accessible, specific accommodations for wheelchairs are not detailed in sources, so visitors should inquire in advance.
Safety and Policies: The hotel implements safety measures (e.g., COVID-19 protocols), offers flexible cancellations, and charges €20 for early check-in (10:00 AM) or late check-out (2:00 PM), subject to availability.

Visitor Feedback:
Guests consistently rate Barberstown highly (9/10 on Booking.com), praising its historical charm, elegant rooms, superb food, and attentive staff.
Standout experiences include the “exquisite” wedding services, the “superb” pork belly at the Garden Bar, and the serene gardens with unexpected poppy fields.
Some note the limited restaurant hours (Barton Rooms open only Friday/Saturday) as a minor drawback, but the Tea Rooms and pub compensate with quality offerings.

 

Cultural and Historical Significance

Barberstown Castle is a cultural and historical treasure, embodying Ireland’s layered past:

Anglo-Norman Heritage: As a Pale fortress, it played a critical role in defending English rule, reflecting the Norman influence in Kildare.
Architectural Legacy: Its multi-era design is a microcosm of Irish country house evolution, from defensive tower to luxurious estate, making it a valuable study for historians and architects.
Celebrity and Modern Culture: Eric Clapton’s ownership and visits by figures like Arnold Palmer and Sean Connery add a contemporary cultural dimension, bridging medieval history with modern fame.
Community Role: The castle’s use as a safe haven during the War of Independence and its current role as a wedding and event venue highlight its enduring community significance.
Ireland’s Ancient East: Located in the heart of this historical region, Barberstown serves as a gateway to exploring Kildare’s heritage, from Neolithic sites like Newgrange to modern attractions like the K Club.

 

Challenges and Conservation

Barberstown faces few conservation challenges due to its active use and careful maintenance, but some considerations remain:

Preservation vs. Modernization: Balancing historical integrity with modern hotel standards requires ongoing investment. The 1996 renovations successfully integrated modern amenities while preserving the keep and wings.
Structural Maintenance: The medieval keep and older wings require regular upkeep to prevent deterioration, particularly given their age and exposure to weather.
Accessibility: Enhancing access for guests with mobility issues could improve inclusivity without compromising historical features.
Environmental Impact: The 20-acre gardens and high-end operations necessitate sustainable practices to minimize environmental strain, though no specific issues are noted in sources.
The castle’s status as a Fáilte Ireland-approved property and its membership in Ireland’s Blue Book and Historic Hotels of Europe ensure rigorous standards for preservation and hospitality.

 

Visitor Tips and Nearby Attractions

To maximize a visit to Barberstown Castle, consider the following:

Best Time to Visit: Spring (April–May) or summer (June–August) for garden exploration and pleasant weather. Autumn (September–October) offers vibrant foliage, while winter provides cozy indoor experiences with log fires.

What to Bring:
Comfortable shoes for garden walks and exploring Straffan.
A camera to capture the castle’s architecture and poppy fields.
Formal attire for fine dining at Barton Rooms or special events.
Respecting the Site: Avoid touching fragile antiques, follow hotel guidelines, and book dining or events in advance due to limited restaurant hours.

Practical Information:
Booking: Reserve rooms or dining directly via www.barberstowncastle.ie for exclusive offers and flexible cancellations. Rates start at ~$242/night.
Contact: Tel: +353 1 6288157, Email: info@barberstowncastle.ie.
Events: Check for wedding availability or special events like the Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride.

Nearby Attractions:
Irish National Stud and Japanese Gardens (30 min): Home to thoroughbred horses and a renowned Zen garden.
Kildare Village (30 min): A luxury shopping outlet with a 10% discount for hotel guests.
Newgrange (45 min): A UNESCO World Heritage Neolithic site older than the Pyramids.
Glendalough and Powerscourt Gardens (40 min): Scenic monastic ruins and formal gardens.
K Club (0.5 miles): A world-class golf course, ideal for enthusiasts.
Straffan Village (5 min walk): A quaint village with local cafes like The Victorian Tea Room.
Kildare Maze and Donadea Forest (20–30 min): Family-friendly outdoor activities.
Combine with a Regional Tour: Use Barberstown as a base to explore Dublin (25 min), Wicklow Mountains (40 min), or the Boyne Valley (45 min) for a comprehensive Ancient East experience.