Howth Castle, Ireland

Howth Castle

Location: Howth Map

Constructed: 14th century

 

Howth Castle, located on the scenic Howth Peninsula in County Dublin, Ireland, is a historic fortress with over 800 years of history, making it one of the longest continuously inhabited private residences in Europe. Nestled amidst 500 acres of parkland, the castle overlooks Dublin Bay, offering stunning views of the Irish Sea, Ireland’s Eye, and the rugged cliffs of Howth Head. Once the ancestral home of the St. Lawrence family and later the Gaisford-St. Lawrence family, it has evolved from a medieval stronghold to a romantic, rambling estate that blends architectural styles across centuries. Sold to Tetrarch Capital in 2019, the castle is undergoing redevelopment, but its rich history, picturesque grounds, and cultural significance continue to captivate visitors.

 

History

Origins and Early Development
Howth Castle’s origins trace back to 1177, when Almeric (or Armoricus) Tristram, a Norman knight, arrived in Ireland with John de Courcy during the Norman invasion. Legend holds that on August 10, the feast day of St. Lawrence, Almeric won a victory at Evora Bridge near Howth, securing control of the Howth Peninsula. In gratitude, he adopted the name St. Lawrence, founding a dynasty that would hold the castle and lands for over eight centuries. The St. Lawrence family became hereditary Lords of Howth, a feudal barony, with titles evolving to Baron Howth (until 1767) and Earl of Howth (until 1909).

The first castle, a timber structure, was built around 1177 on Tower Hill, overlooking Balscadden Bay near Howth village. By 1235, a deed records a new castle constructed on the current site, likely also of wood, situated on fertile land away from the coast. The earliest extant stone structures date to the mid-15th century, marking the transition to a more permanent fortress.

Medieval and Early Modern Period
The St. Lawrence family navigated Ireland’s turbulent history with remarkable resilience, retaining their titles and lands through the Middle Ages, Tudor, Elizabethan, Commonwealth, and Restoration periods. Unlike many Norman families, they remained loyal to the English Crown within the Pale (the area around Dublin under English control), even as Gaelic Irish and Old English families faced decline. The castle served as a defensive stronghold, protecting the peninsula from Viking raids and later Gaelic rebellions.

A famous legend from 1576 involves Gráinne (Grace) O’Malley, the Gaelic chieftain and “Pirate Queen.” Attempting a courtesy visit to the 8th Baron Howth, she was refused entry as the family was dining, and the castle gates were closed. In retaliation, she abducted the baron’s grandson, the 10th Baron, releasing him only after the family promised to keep the gates open to unexpected visitors and set an extra plate at every meal. This tradition is said to have persisted, symbolizing the castle’s hospitality.

Architectural Evolution and Later History
The castle underwent significant transformations over the centuries. In the 15th century, Christopher, 14th Lord of Howth, built the Keep and Gate Tower, the oldest surviving structures (circa 1450). The Hall was added in 1558 by Christopher, 20th Lord of Howth (the “Blind Lord”), and further expansions occurred in the 17th century. In 1738, William St. Lawrence, 14th Lord of Howth, modernized the castle in a Palladian style, introducing classical features like Georgian sash windows and a balustraded terrace.

In 1909, the death of the 4th and last Earl of Howth left the estate to his nephew, Julian Gaisford, who assumed the name Gaisford-St. Lawrence. He commissioned architect Sir Edwin Lutyens in 1910–1911 to renovate and expand the castle, adding a library tower (Gaisford Tower), a loggia, and a Catholic chapel, blending modern comforts with the castle’s medieval character.

The estate, once encompassing much of northern Dublin (including Kilbarrack, Raheny, and Clontarf), was gradually reduced from the 19th to mid-20th centuries. By the late 20th century, the demesne was redeveloped with golf courses, a hotel, and other facilities. In 2018, the Gaisford-St. Lawrence family sold the castle, estate, and Ireland’s Eye to Tetrarch Capital for redevelopment into a luxury resort. A 7-acre portion near the castle gate was sold to Glenveagh Homes for €14 million for residential development.

Recent Developments
Since its sale, Howth Castle’s future as a publicly accessible site is uncertain. Tours have likely ceased, and the castle is poised to become a luxury hotel, aligning with Tetrarch’s vision. However, the estate’s cultural and historical significance, including its gardens and nearby attractions, continues to draw visitors to the Howth Peninsula.

 

Architecture

Howth Castle is a “rambling and romantic” structure, described by Burke’s as a massive medieval keep with Irish crow-step crenelated towers, to which additions have been made over 800 years. Its eclectic design reflects its evolution from a defensive fortress to a residential mansion.

Key Architectural Features
Keep and Gate Tower (circa 1450): Built by Christopher, 14th Lord of Howth, these are the oldest surviving elements, forming the castle’s medieval core. The Keep is a large tower to the left of the main entrance, while the Gate Tower, slightly forward, guards the entrance court. Traces of a defensive wall and turrets remain in the gardens.
Hall (1558): Added by the “Blind Lord,” this central range, now entered via the main door, features Georgian sash windows from the 1738 renovation. A top floor was added before 1641 by Nicolas, 23rd Lord of Howth.
East Wing/Tower House (1660–1671): Constructed by William, 25th Lord of Howth, this addition includes battlements and turrets, maintaining the castle’s fortified appearance.
Palladian Redesign (1738): William St. Lawrence’s overhaul, designed by Sir Edward Lovett Pearce, introduced classical elements, including a pedimented Doric doorcase, a balustraded terrace with steps, and symmetrical proportions, softening the castle’s martial aesthetic.
Lutyens’ Additions (1910–1911): Sir Edwin Lutyens modernized the castle, adding:
Gaisford Tower: A three-bay, two-story library block with a dormer attic, incorporating earlier fabric from 1738 and 1840, featuring square turrets and oak bookcases with elm-paneled ceilings.
Loggia and Corridors: A loggia with bathrooms above and corbelled oriel windows along the drawing room wing, enhancing functionality and charm.
Catholic Chapel: A simple, dignified space in the early 19th-century range, with a barrel-vaulted ceiling and apse.
Sunken Garden: A charming addition near the tower, blending formal and natural elements.
Victorian Wing (19th Century): Designed by Sir Benjamin Lee Guinness, this addition expanded the castle’s residential capacity.

Interior Highlights
The castle’s interiors, accumulated over centuries, include:

Great Sword of Howth: Allegedly wielded by Almeric in 1177, though likely from the early 15th century, a symbol of the family’s martial heritage.
Drawing Room: Features a mid-18th-century ceiling, possibly inspired by William Kent’s Works of Inigo Jones, with paneled walls and arched mouldings.
Library: Lutyens’ oak-paneled library in the Gaisford Tower, with elm ceilings, is a scholarly retreat.
Furniture: Fine 18th-century Irish pieces, reflecting the family’s wealth and taste.
The castle’s architecture illustrates Ireland’s evolving historic houses, blending Norman, Tudor, Palladian, and Edwardian styles into a cohesive, if eclectic, whole.

 

Cultural and Historical Significance

Howth Castle is a cultural and historical treasure, embodying Ireland’s Norman legacy, feudal traditions, and adaptation to modern times:

St. Lawrence Legacy: The family’s 800-year tenure, from Almeric’s arrival to the 2019 sale, is unparalleled, making the castle a living link to Ireland’s medieval past. Their loyalty to the Crown and survival through rebellions highlight their political acumen.
Gráinne O’Malley Legend: The 1576 incident with the Pirate Queen is a celebrated tale, blending Gaelic and Norman narratives and symbolizing hospitality.
Literary Connections: The castle hosted Dean Jonathan Swift, a friend of the 14th Lord, who described Lady Howth as a “blue-eyed nymph.” Rosa Mulholland’s 1892 description of the grounds as a “quaint old castle” with “cathedral-like” woods captures its romantic allure. Samuel Ferguson’s poem “Aideen’s Grave” immortalizes the nearby dolmen.
Community Role: The castle has hosted cultural events, including art exhibitions, concerts, and food festivals, and was home to the Howth Castle Cookery School, fostering local engagement.
Archaeological Sites: The estate includes:
Aideen’s Grave: A 3,000-year-old dolmen, legendarily the tomb of Aideen, who died of a broken heart in AD 184, though the structure predates this tale.
St. Mary’s Abbey Ruins: Founded in 1042 by Viking King Sitric, amalgamated with Ireland’s Eye monastery in 1235, with most ruins from the 15th–16th centuries.
Corr Castle Ruins: A 16th-century structure on the grounds, adding to the estate’s historical depth.

 

Grounds and Estate

The castle’s 500-acre demesne is a highlight, offering a mix of natural beauty and curated landscapes:

Rhododendron Gardens: Planted in 1854, these are among Ireland’s earliest and most famous, with over 200 species and hybrids. Blooming in April–June, they create an “avalanche of colour,” especially vibrant in May.
Beech Hedges: Planted in 1710, these 10-meter-high hedges are among Ireland’s oldest, framing the gardens.
Formal Gardens: Include a swan-inhabited pond, a plashing fountain, and a sunken garden by Lutyens, described by Mulholland as a “prim garden” encircled by woods.
Deer Park: A public golf course and pitch-and-putt facilities occupy this area, with scenic views of Dublin Bay and Ireland’s Eye.
Howth Head: The estate encompasses much of the peninsula, including heathlands, cliff walks, and light woodlands. The Cliff Path Loop (6 km) offers dramatic views of crashing waves and rich heathers.
National Transport Museum: Housed in the former stables, it features double-decker buses, trams, and vintage vehicles, adding a quirky attraction.

 

Visitor Experience

Historically, Howth Castle was a private residence with limited public access, but it offered guided tours, garden walks, and cultural activities. Since its 2019 sale, visitor options may have changed, and the castle’s future accessibility is uncertain. Below is an overview based on its pre-sale offerings and current context:

Access: Located at Howth Castle, Howth, Dublin, D13 EH73, the castle is a 30-minute DART ride from Dublin city center to Howth Station, followed by a 15-minute walk uphill via the R105. Dublin Bus routes 31 or 31B from O’Connell Street take 40–50 minutes to Howth village, with a 20-minute walk to the castle. Parking is available on-site, though fees may apply.
Tours (Pre-2019): Guided tours, often led by resident historian Daniel, were available for groups by booking (via www.howthcastle.ie) or on Sundays in August–September for €12–€20. Tours covered the castle’s architecture, history, and stories, lasting about an hour. Visitors praised Daniel’s knowledge and enthusiasm.
Current Status (2025): Tours are likely discontinued due to the castle’s sale and redevelopment plans. However, the grounds, including the Rhododendron Gardens and Deer Park, may remain accessible for walks, especially in spring when the gardens bloom. Check www.howthcastle.ie or www.fingal.ie for updates.

Attractions:
Rhododendron Gardens: Open seasonally, free to explore, with peak blooms in April–May.
National Transport Museum: Open year-round, showcasing vintage vehicles (check www.nationaltransportmuseum.org for hours and fees).
Howth Cliff Walks: Free, with trails like the Cliff Path Loop offering stunning coastal views.
Cookery School (Closed): The Howth Castle Cookery School, known for seafood and Irish cuisine classes, is likely defunct post-sale.
Nearby Attractions: Howth village offers seafood restaurants (e.g., King Sitric, Beshoffs), the Ye Olde Hurdy-Gurdy Museum of Vintage Radio, and boat trips to Ireland’s Eye. St. Mary’s Abbey ruins and Aideen’s Grave are within the estate.
Best Time to Visit: Spring (April–May) for garden blooms, or summer for mild weather and coastal walks. Autumn and winter offer quieter visits but fewer facilities.
Tips: Wear comfortable shoes for uneven grounds and coastal paths. Bring a camera for Dublin Bay views. Check for updates on access due to ongoing redevelopment.

 

Conservation and Challenges

Howth Castle’s preservation has been a private endeavor, with the St. Lawrence family maintaining it for centuries. However, challenges persist:

Conservation Efforts:
The Gaisford-St. Lawrence family preserved the castle’s structure and contents, sharing it through tours and events.
Lutyens’ 1910–1911 renovations ensured the castle’s habitability while respecting its medieval core.

Challenges:
Sale and Redevelopment: The 2019 sale to Tetrarch Capital sparked concerns about the castle’s heritage, with fears of over-commercialization. A 2021 post on X lamented the dispersal of its contents at auction, suggesting missed opportunities for state acquisition.
Maintenance: The castle’s towers and walls show signs of disrepair, with weeds noted by some visitors, requiring ongoing care.
Balancing Access and Privacy: As a private residence, public access was limited, and post-sale, it may be further restricted during redevelopment.