Location: 4 km (2.5 mi) South- West of Kington Clonegal Map
Constructed: 1625 for Laurence Esmonde, Baron Esmonde
Open: June, July, August and September
Huntington Castle, also known as Clonegal Castle, is a historic and culturally rich site located in the picturesque village of Clonegal, County Carlow, Ireland. Built in 1625 by Sir Laurence Esmonde, this 17th-century tower house, originally a plantation castle, has evolved into a family home, tourist attraction, and spiritual center. Nestled in the valley of the River Derry, near the borders of Counties Carlow and Wexford, the castle is celebrated for its architectural history, eclectic interiors, extensive gardens, and unique role as the headquarters of the Fellowship of Isis.
Huntington Castle is situated in Clonegal, a small, rural village in
southeast County Carlow, approximately 5 km from Bunclody (County
Wexford), 22 km from Carlow town, and 30 km southeast of Carlow town
along the N80 and L2024 roads. The castle lies just over a mile north of
the confluence of the River Derry and the River Slaney, with the Derry
forming the boundary between Counties Carlow and Wexford. This strategic
location, historically significant due to its position on the
Dublin-Wexford route, made the site ideal for a defensive garrison.
The castle is set within 160 acres of gardens, woodland, and
farmland, offering a serene and scenic environment. The approach to the
castle is marked by a magnificent avenue of French lime trees, planted
in 1680, leading from the village to the castle’s wrought-iron gates.
The surrounding landscape, part of Ireland’s Ancient East and the end of
the Wicklow Way, features rolling hills, the Blackstairs Mountains, and
the tranquil River Derry, enhancing the castle’s idyllic setting.
Huntington Castle’s history spans over six centuries, with roots in
earlier structures and a complex evolution through military,
residential, and cultural phases.
Pre-17th Century Origins
14th–15th Century: The site was occupied by a Franciscan friary and
possibly a 15th-century tower house built for the Caviness family, an
old Irish clan. The castle’s basement contains a sacred well dedicated
to St. Brigid, which likely influenced its location, ensuring a water
supply during sieges.
Strategic Importance: Clonegal’s position on
the Dublin-Wexford road made it a key point during the Plantations of
Ireland, when English settlers colonized Gaelic lands.
17th
Century: Plantation Castle
1625: Sir Laurence Esmonde, a major
general under King James I and governor of Duncannon Fort, built the
current castle as a plantation castle for defensive purposes. Designed
in the Jacobean style, it replaced earlier structures and served as a
garrison to protect English settlers and control trade routes along the
River Slaney.
Esmonde Family: Laurence, created 1st Baron Esmonde for
his loyalty, married Ailish O’Flaherty, granddaughter of the pirate
queen Grace O’Malley, causing a family scandal. The Esmondes, who
arrived in Ireland in 1192, established the castle as their seat.
1650: During the Cromwellian conquest, Oliver Cromwell captured the
castle due to its strategic location, using it as a base en route to
Kilkenny.
18th–19th Century: Transformation to Family Home
1680s: Laurence Esmonde’s grandson modernized the castle, transforming
it into a comfortable family home. He laid out formal gardens, including
the French Lime Avenue, Yew Walk, lawns, and fish ponds, which remain
key features.
1720: A long wing was added to the northern side,
regularizing the castle’s fenestration and softening its defensive
character.
1860s–1880s: Alexander Durdin made significant Victorian
extensions, including a seven-bay, two-story wing and castellated
battlements. A water turbine house, built in 1888, provided electricity,
one of the earliest such systems in Ireland.
Late 19th Century: Helen
Durdin, heiress, married Herbert Robertson, Baron Strathloch, linking
the Esmonde lineage to the Durdin-Robertson family.
20th Century:
Modernization and Cultural Shift
1920s–1933: Manning
Durdin-Robertson, an architect and early advocate of concrete,
redecorated the castle in a modern style, removing battlements,
reconstructing the gateway, and building a precast concrete greenhouse.
1976: Olivia and Lawrence Durdin-Robertson, with Lawrence’s wife Pamela,
converted the basement into the Temple of Isis, founding the Fellowship
of Isis, a religion celebrating the divine feminine.
Film and Media:
The castle served as a setting for Stanley Kubrick’s 1975 film Barry
Lyndon, highlighting its historical ambiance.
21st Century:
Preservation and Tourism
Current Ownership: The castle is owned by
Alexander and Claire Durdin-Robertson, direct descendants of the
Esmondes, who maintain it as a family home, B&B, and tourist attraction.
Restoration: David and Moira Durdin-Robertson completed a thorough
restoration of the castle, gardens, and outbuildings, preserving its
heritage.
Huntington Castle is a castellated house of multiple periods,
blending medieval, Jacobean, Georgian, and Victorian elements. Its
core is a rough-hewn granite tower house from 1625, with later
additions creating a complex, eclectic structure.
Exterior
Original Tower House: The 17th-century tower house, built for
defense, features thick granite walls and a full-height semicircular
tower.
18th-Century Wing: A long northern wing, added circa 1720,
introduced Georgian symmetry with regular windows.
Victorian
Additions: A mid-1890s battlemented range and a curved bow with a
battlemented gable added flamboyant castellated features.
Courtyard and Outbuildings: The stable yard, accessed via a portico,
includes a Victorian conservatory with a grapevine ceiling (a
cutting from Hampton Court’s Great Vine) and a courtyard with a
tearoom and gift shop.
Interiors
Jacobean Hall: Features
original paneling and a grand fireplace, evoking the castle’s early
history.
Dining Room: Decorated with Bedouin tent hangings,
adding an exotic flair.
Tapestry Room: Houses a marriage chest
(cassone) and Aubusson French tapestries, showcasing the family’s
eclectic collection.
Victorian Kitchens: Preserved with antique
copperware, an iron stove, and early appliances like a vacuum
cleaner, offering a glimpse into 19th-century domestic life.
Stairway Hall: The semicircular tower bulges into the hall, clad in
timber and adorned with armor, creating a dramatic effect. A small
stone window in the curved wall adds charm.
Temple of Isis:
Located in the basement, this spiritual center, established in 1976,
features altars, goddess imagery, and the sacred well of St. Brigid.
It is the headquarters of the Fellowship of Isis, a global religion
with thousands of members. Photography is permitted here, unlike
other living quarters.
Living Quarters: The Durdin-Robertsons’
private rooms, filled with portraits, ornate carpets, and family
heirlooms, are included in tours, though photography is prohibited.
The castle is reputedly haunted, with tales of druidic spirits creating mists, starting fires, and causing supernatural phenomena like blood flowing from showerheads. These stories, possibly linked to the site’s ancient well and pagan history, add intrigue to tours.
Huntington’s gardens, laid out primarily in the 17th century by the
Esmondes, are a highlight, combining formal Italianate designs with
whimsical rural elements.
Key Features
French Lime Avenue:
Planted in 1680, this tree-lined approach frames the castle’s entrance.
Yew Walk: A 500-year-old avenue of yew trees, one of the oldest in
Ireland, creates a serene, almost mystical pathway.
Italian Parterre:
Formal lawns beside the house, restored to their 17th-century design.
Fish Ponds and Lake: Symmetrical ponds flank the central walk through
the wilderness, with an ornamental lake at its base.
Rose Garden:
Features vibrant roses and magnolias, though some visitors note it needs
maintenance.
Woodland and Specimen Trees: Includes rare varieties
like hickory, cut-leaved oak, Siberian crab, and buckeye chestnut,
adding horticultural interest.
Water Turbine House: A brick structure
from 1888, now ramshackle but historically significant for generating
electricity until the 1950s.
River Derry: Flows along the garden’s
edge, offering scenic woodland walks and views.
Additional
Elements
Adventure Playground: A woodland playground for children,
enhancing family appeal.
Farm Animals: Peacocks, chickens, pigs,
sheep, and lambs roam the grounds, delighting visitors. A notable
experience includes watching newborn lambs in the barn.
Precast
Concrete Greenhouse: Built by Manning Robertson, showcasing early
20th-century innovation.
The gardens, while occasionally needing
upkeep, are praised for their peaceful ambiance and biodiversity, with
crows, acers, oaks, and beeches adding to the estate’s charm.
Huntington Castle is unique for its blend of historical, familial,
and spiritual roles:
Family Continuity: Inhabited by the same
family line for over 400 years, the castle is a living museum, with the
Durdin-Robertsons actively preserving its heritage.
Fellowship of
Isis: The Temple of Isis, founded in 1976 by Olivia and Lawrence
Durdin-Robertson, is a global spiritual movement celebrating the divine
feminine. The temple, located in the former dungeons, attracts visitors
interested in mysticism and goddess worship.
Cultural Events: The
castle hosted the Solas Festival in 2008 and supports events like Easter
Treasure Hunts, Halloween Festivals, and the Carlow Garden Festival. It
also offers bespoke wedding packages in its 14th-century abbey ruins.
Film and Media: Its use in Barry Lyndon and as a filming location
underscores its cinematic appeal.
Huntington Castle is a multifaceted destination, offering tours,
accommodations, and family-friendly activities. It is open seasonally,
with extended hours from May to September and limited weekend openings
from February to April and October to December. Visitors are advised to
check www.huntingtoncastle.com for exact dates, as weddings or events
may close the castle.
Guided Tours
Duration and Content:
35–40-minute tours cover the Jacobean hall, Victorian kitchens, living
quarters, and Temple of Isis, with guides sharing history, ghost
stories, and family anecdotes. Guides like Peter and Keith are praised
for their knowledge and enthusiasm.
Cost (2025): House and gardens:
€13.95 (adults), €6.50 (children), €12.50 (OAP/students). Gardens only:
€6.95 (adults), €3.50 (children). Group and family discounts available.
Restrictions: Photography is prohibited in living quarters but allowed
in the Temple of Isis.
Accommodations
B&B: Luxury rooms with
four-poster beds, original fireplaces, and garden views, starting at
€160/night (2016 rates). Guests enjoy full Irish breakfasts and
personalized hospitality from hosts Alexander and Claire.
Self-Catering: Apartments on the grounds offer flexibility for longer
stays.
Guest Experience: Reviews highlight the “magical” ambiance,
comfortable beds, and unique experience of staying in a historic castle
with resident animals like peacocks.
Amenities
Tearoom and
Gift Shop: A 17th-century tearoom serves coffee, cakes, and light fare,
with a gift shop offering books, toys, and local crafts. The courtyard
setting is charming, especially with peacocks nearby.
Accessibility:
Wheelchair access is limited to parts of the gardens due to uneven
terrain.
Parking: Available opposite the courtyard entrance, with a
recommended walk down the Lime Avenue to fully appreciate the approach.
Activities
Garden Walks: Explore the Yew Walk, rose garden, and
River Derry trails, ideal for relaxation and photography.
Village
Exploration: A short walk to Clonegal offers Osborne’s pub, Sha-Roe
Bistro (highly recommended), and views of the Derry River.
Family
Events: Seasonal festivals and the adventure playground cater to
children.
Tips
Wear sturdy shoes for garden walks, as paths
can be uneven.
Book accommodations or tours in advance, especially
during peak season (June–September).
Check for wedding schedules to
ensure tour availability.
Visit nearby Altamont Gardens, a 16-hectare
estate known as Ireland’s gardening jewel, for a complementary
experience.
Preservation: The Durdin-Robertsons’ hands-on approach ensures the
castle’s upkeep, though some visitors note the gardens require
maintenance, particularly the canal ponds and wedding facilities.
Tourism Balance: As a family home, the castle balances private living
with public access, which limits photography and tour availability
during events.
Cultural Perception: The Temple of Isis, while unique,
receives mixed reviews, with some finding it less compelling than the
castle’s historical elements.
Recognition: Voted one of Ireland’s top
20 “Hidden Gems” by The Guardian, Huntington is gaining prominence as a
must-visit site in Ireland’s Ancient East.