Location: The Burren
Constructed: c. 1480
Leamaneh Castle, located in the townland of Leamaneh North, Kilnaboy parish, County Clare, Ireland, is a ruined but evocative structure on the edge of the Burren National Park, near the intersection of the R476 and R480 roads between Corofin and Kilfenora. Comprising a 15th-century tower house and a 17th-century manor house, this National Monument is celebrated for its architectural duality, turbulent history, and the infamous legend of Máire Rua O’Brien (Red Mary), a figure whose fiery reputation and ghostly presence dominate its lore. Managed by the Office of Public Works (OPW), the castle is on private land and inaccessible to the public due to safety concerns, but its striking ruins can be admired from the roadside.
Leamaneh Castle’s history spans over five centuries, reflecting
Ireland’s complex interplay of Gaelic, Norman, and English influences,
with its story shaped by the powerful O’Brien family and the
controversial figure of Máire Rua.
Origins (Late 15th Century):
The castle began as a five-story tower house constructed around
1480–1490, likely by Toirdhealbhach Donn Ó Briain, a member of the
O’Brien family, descendants of Brian Boru and one of the last High Kings
of Thomond. The name “Leamaneh,” derived from the Irish léim an éich
(“the horse’s leap”) or possibly léim an fheidh (“the deer’s leap”), may
refer to a local geographical feature or legend, though its exact origin
is unclear. The O’Briens, prominent in Clare, built the tower at a
strategic crossroads where the baronies of Burren, Corcomroe, and
Inchiquin met, controlling regional trade and defense. In 1550, the
castle was granted to Donough O’Brien, who was later executed in
Limerick in 1582 for rebellion during the Mac an Iarla War, highlighting
the family’s fraught relationship with English authority.
Máire Rua
and Expansion (1630s–1650s): The castle’s most defining era began in
1639 when Conor O’Brien, a descendant of Donough, married Máire ní Mahon
(MacMahon), known as Máire Rua or “Red Mary” for her red hair and
reputed fiery temperament. Máire, born c. 1615 to Sir Turlough O’Brien
and Lady Honora, inherited significant wealth from her first husband,
Daniel Neylan (or O’Neillan) of Dysert O’Dea Castle, with whom she had
three sons. Her £1,000 dowry funded major expansions, transforming
Leamaneh into one of Ireland’s grandest residences. In 1648, Conor and
Máire added a four-story manor house with large mullioned windows, a
stark contrast to the defensive tower. The couple were staunch
Confederate supporters during the Eleven Years’ War (1641–1653),
opposing Cromwellian forces and raiding English settlers. In 1651, Conor
was mortally wounded by General Henry Ireton’s forces at Inchicronan.
Legend claims Máire callously refused him entry, shouting, “What do I
want with dead men here?” though she reportedly nursed him until his
death hours later.
Cromwellian Era and Máire’s Strategy (1650s–1686):
To preserve her estate from Cromwellian confiscation, Máire married
Cornet John Cooper, a Cromwellian officer, shortly after Conor’s death,
a pragmatic move that secured Leamaneh for her son Donough (later Sir
Donat). This third marriage, producing one child, allowed Máire to
navigate the turbulent 1650s, with Cromwellian troops occasionally
garrisoned at the castle for its strategic strength, as noted by General
Edmund Ludlow. Cooper amassed wealth through land speculation but faced
financial ruin, mortgaging Leamaneh to cover debts. Máire’s reputation
grew notorious, with folklore alleging she had up to 25 husbands,
divorcing or killing them after a year and a day, though historical
records confirm only three. Stories of her cruelty—hanging male servants
by their necks and female servants by their hair, or challenging guests
to ride a wild stallion to their deaths at the Cliffs of Moher—are
likely exaggerated, reflecting misogynistic tropes about powerful women.
Máire died in 1686, possibly at Leamaneh, though her burial site is
unknown, with some suggesting Coad Church in Kilnaboy.
Decline and
Abandonment (1686–18th Century): Donough O’Brien, raised Protestant
unlike his Catholic half-siblings, inherited Leamaneh but found it
dilapidated by 1684–1685. He relocated the family seat to Dromoland
Castle in Newmarket-on-Fergus, a larger, more modern estate. Donough,
who became the “richest commoner in Ireland,” served as Sheriff of Clare
(1690) and MP for Clare (1695–1713), building “Sir Donat’s Road,” a toll
road linking Kilnaboy to Leamaneh, parts of which survive. Leamaneh was
abandoned by the early 18th century, falling into ruin as the O’Flaherty
family, who gained it through marriage, faced financial decline. The
castle’s strategic value waned, and nature reclaimed the site.
Modern
Era: By the 19th century, Leamaneh was a picturesque ruin, inspiring
paintings, photographs, and folklore. In 1906 or 1908, its
barbican-style gates were relocated to Dromoland Castle by Lord
Inchiquin, and a fireplace was moved to the Old Ground Hotel in Ennis.
Designated a National Monument under the National Monuments Acts
1930–2014, the OPW has stabilized the ruins, repointing stone walls and
removing vegetation to prevent further decay. However, its poor
condition prevents public access, and it remains on private agricultural
land.
The historical record is robust for the O’Brien era,
particularly Máire Rua’s life, but folklore, such as the 25 husbands or
stallion legend, lacks corroboration and likely stems from 19th-century
oral traditions, possibly amplified to demonize a powerful woman. The
crannóg mentioned in some sources is speculative, as no archaeological
evidence confirms its proximity. The castle’s role in the Cromwellian
wars is well-documented, but details of Máire’s interactions with Ludlow
and Cooper’s death (natural, accidental, or violent) are ambiguous,
reflecting gaps in primary sources.
Leamaneh Castle is a rare architectural hybrid, combining a
15th-century defensive tower house with a 17th-century manor house,
showcasing both martial and residential priorities. Its ruins,
though roofless, retain significant features that highlight its
historical evolution.
Structure:
15th-Century Tower House:
The original structure, built c. 1480–1490, is a five-story
rectangular tower, approximately 15 meters high, constructed from
local limestone. Typical of Irish tower houses, it features:
Arrow Slits: Narrow loops for archers, emphasizing defense.
Spiral Staircase: A stone staircase within the thick walls,
providing access to upper floors.
Small Chambers: Cramped rooms
for storage, defense, or minimal living space.
Corbels: Stone
brackets, later associated with Máire Rua’s alleged punishments,
though this is likely apocryphal.
17th-Century Manor House: Added
in 1648 by Conor O’Brien and Máire Rua, the four-story manor adjoins
the tower’s west side, forming an L-shaped complex. It includes:
Mullioned and Transomed Windows: Large, decorative windows, unusual
for Ireland’s conflict-ridden 1640s, reflecting wealth and a shift
to residential comfort. The upper floors’ smaller windows create a
trompe-l’œil effect, making the building appear taller from the
ground.
Gabled Roofline: Now collapsed, the manor’s gables were a
Renaissance-inspired feature, contrasting with the tower’s
austerity.
Separate Entrance and Offices: The ground floor housed
a kitchen and service areas, with living quarters above, indicating
a manor house layout.
Bawn and Outbuildings: A walled courtyard
(bawn) with a barbican-style gateway, now at Dromoland Castle,
protected the complex. Remnants of walled gardens, a deer park, and
outbuildings are visible, suggesting a once-extensive estate.
Defensive Features: The tower’s thick walls, arrow slits, and
elevated entrance (likely with a murder-hole, though not explicitly
documented) reflect 15th-century defensive needs. The manor’s large
windows, however, indicate reduced defensive concerns by the 1640s,
a risky choice during the Confederate Wars.
Current State: The
castle is roofless, with the manor’s four walls and the tower’s
shell intact. Vegetation has been cleared, and stonework repointed,
but the structure is unstable, with collapsed interiors and no
accessible floors. The juxtaposition of the tower’s narrow slits and
the manor’s elegant windows creates a striking visual contrast,
highlighting its architectural evolution.
The architectural
narrative is well-supported, with the tower-manor duality a rare
feature in Ireland, akin to Bunratty Castle’s later expansions. The
trompe-l’œil effect is documented, but claims of a “grandest” status
may exaggerate, as Dromoland and Bunratty were larger. The absence
of interior access limits detailed study, and some sources’ mention
of a “partially demolished” tower during manor construction lacks
archaeological confirmation.
Leamaneh Castle’s significance lies in its embodiment of Ireland’s
socio-political shifts, its O’Brien legacy, and its haunting folklore,
particularly surrounding Máire Rua.
O’Brien Dynasty: As a
stronghold of the O’Briens, descendants of Brian Boru, Leamaneh
represents their enduring influence in Clare. Their pledge to Henry VIII
in the 1500s, earning titles like Earl of Thomond, reflects the
Gaelic-Norman synthesis, while their Confederate allegiance in the 1640s
underscores resistance to English rule. Donough’s move to Dromoland and
Protestant upbringing highlight the family’s adaptation to English
governance, securing wealth and status.
Máire Rua’s Legend: Máire Rua
is Leamaneh’s cultural heart, her red-haired ghost cementing its status
as one of Ireland’s most haunted castles. Folklore paints her as a
ruthless tyrant—hanging servants, killing husbands, and tricking riders
to their deaths at the Cliffs of Moher—yet these tales likely exaggerate
her agency to vilify a wealthy, independent woman. Her strategic
marriage to John Cooper, however, is factual, showcasing her political
acumen in preserving her estate. Stories of her death in a hollow tree,
possibly at Leamaneh or a “Druid’s Altar,” are unverified but fuel her
spectral reputation, attracting paranormal enthusiasts, especially on
Halloween.
Artistic Legacy: The castle’s ruins have inspired
paintings, photographs (e.g., Jerzy Strzelecki’s 1989 image), and
literary accounts since the 19th century. Its stark beauty in the
Burren’s karst landscape has made it a subject for artists like James A.
Truett, who documented its avian inhabitants. The 2015 and 2019
photographs by LawrenceCollection highlight its enduring visual appeal.
National Monument Status: As a National Monument, Leamaneh underscores
Ireland’s commitment to preserving its medieval heritage, though its
private ownership and ruinous state limit its public role compared to
restored sites like Bunratty. Its inclusion in Burren tourism
itineraries reflects its regional importance, tying it to nearby sites
like Poulnabrone Dolmen and Aillwee Cave.
The Máire Rua folklore,
while culturally rich, risks overshadowing the castle’s historical role,
with sources like Dúchas’ collection amplifying unverified tales. The
O’Brien narrative is robust, but the castle’s later O’Flaherty phase is
less documented, suggesting a need for further research. The “horse’s
leap” etymology is plausible but folkloric, possibly linked to Máire’s
stallion legend rather than geography.
Leamaneh Castle is a non-accessible National Monument on private
agricultural land, managed by the OPW, with no formal tours or interior
entry due to safety concerns. Its roadside visibility makes it a
compelling stop for passersby in the Burren.
Location and Access:
Address: Leamaneh North, Kilnaboy, Co. Clare, Ireland (GPS: 52.987811,
-9.139944).
Directions: Located at the R476/R480 intersection, 6.2 km
east of Kilfenora, 10 km from Corofin, and 30 km from Ennis. From Dublin
(2.5–3 hours, 230 km), take the M6/N18 to Ennis, then R476 northwest
through Corofin and Kilnaboy. From Galway (1 hour, 50 km), use the
N18/R476. The castle is visible on the left along the R480.
Public
Transport: Limited options exist. Bus Éireann routes from Ennis to
Corofin (30 minutes) or Galway to Kilfenora require a taxi or 2–3 km
walk to the site. Ennis Train Station (40 minutes’ drive) connects to
Dublin and Galway.
Parking: A small gravel pull-off at the R476/R480
intersection accommodates 1–2 cars, though roadside parking is cramped
and requires caution due to traffic.
Visitor Experience:
Access: The castle is not open to the public, as it is on private land
and structurally unsafe. Visitors can view it from the roadside, taking
photos of the tower and manor’s facade. Trespassing is discouraged, and
the OPW warns of liability for injuries, emphasizing care.
Duration:
A visit typically lasts 10–30 minutes, sufficient to admire the ruins,
read about Máire Rua (via guidebooks or apps), and photograph the Burren
backdrop. TripAdvisor reviews (4.5/5) praise its “impressive” and
“unique” structure but advise against detours unless nearby, given the
lack of interior access.
Features: The ruins’ tower-manor contrast,
mullioned windows, and Burren setting are photogenic, especially at
dusk. Birds nesting in the ruins, noted by James A. Truett, add a lively
touch. The absence of graffiti, as one reviewer noted, reflects Irish
respect for heritage.
Nearby Attractions: Leamaneh integrates with
Burren itineraries:
Poulnabrone Dolmen (10 km, 15 minutes), a
Neolithic tomb.
Caherconnell Stone Fort (8 km), with sheepdog
demonstrations.
Aillwee Cave (15 km), a karst cave with a tea room.
Cliffs of Moher (25 km, 25 minutes), Ireland’s iconic cliffs.
Doolin
and Lahinch, for music and surfing.
Dining and Amenities: No
facilities exist at the site. Nearby Kilfenora (6 km) offers pubs like
Vaughan’s or Linnane’s, while Corofin and Ennis provide restaurants
(e.g., China Palace, ZAIQA). Accommodation options include hotels in
Ennis or B&Bs in the Burren.
Tips for Visitors:
Use GPS for
accuracy, as one visitor reported confusion in Kilnaboy due to poor map
reading. From Ennis, take R476 to R480; the castle is on the left.
Bring a guidebook (e.g., O’Keeffe’s Burren guide) or access online
resources like Heritage Ireland for history, as no on-site signage
exists.
Visit in spring or autumn for mild weather and vivid Burren
landscapes; avoid wet seasons for safer parking.
Combine with Burren
attractions for a half-day itinerary, starting at Poulnabrone or
Caherconnell.
Respect private property; do not climb fences or
approach the ruins closely.
Challenges:
Inaccessibility: The
lack of interior access disappoints some, with TripAdvisor noting it’s
“not worth a detour” unless passing by. Permission from the landowner is
rarely granted.
Parking: The small pull-off and busy roads pose
risks, especially for larger groups.
Interpretation: No on-site
guides or plaques limit understanding, relying on external resources.
Folklore vs. Fact: Máire Rua’s exaggerated tales can overshadow the
castle’s historical role, requiring visitors to discern myth from
reality.
The visitor experience is modest but rewarding for those
intrigued by ruins and legends, though its private status and ruinous
condition contrast with accessible sites like Bunratty.
Tower-Manor Duality: The 15th-century tower’s defensive slits
juxtaposed with the 17th-century manor’s mullioned windows create a
unique architectural narrative.
Trompe-l’œil Windows: The manor’s
smaller upper windows enhance its perceived height, a Renaissance
flourish.
Máire Rua’s Legacy: The castle’s haunting reputation, tied
to Red Mary’s ghost, adds cultural allure, with reported sightings at
the castle and a “Druid’s Altar.”
Burren Setting: The stark karst
landscape frames the ruins, enhancing their dramatic presence.
Relocated Elements: The barbican gates at Dromoland and fireplace at the
Old Ground Hotel connect Leamaneh to broader Clare heritage.
Leamaneh Castle fits Ireland’s tradition of tower houses (e.g., Oranmore, Tyrrellspass) and fortified manors, reflecting the O’Briens’ dual role as Gaelic lords and English-aligned elites. Its Confederate resistance mirrors Roscommon Castle’s role, while Máire Rua’s pragmatism echoes strategies seen at Springfield Castle. The manor’s decorative windows, rare for 1640s Ireland, highlight a fleeting prosperity amidst war, akin to Malby’s renovations at Roscommon. The castle’s ruinous state, like many post-Cromwellian sites, underscores English efforts to dismantle Irish strongholds. Its haunting folklore aligns with Thoor Ballylee’s poetic mystique, though Leamaneh’s isolation and inaccessibility make it a rawer experience. As a National Monument, it contributes to the Burren’s UNESCO Global Geopark status, though its tourism potential is underexploited compared to Newgrange or Blarney.
Preserving Leamaneh Castle balances conservation with its private
status and ruinous condition:
Structural Decay: The roofless
manor and weathered tower risk further collapse. The OPW’s repointing
and vegetation removal are ongoing, but full restoration is unfeasible
due to cost and historical integrity concerns.
Private Ownership: The
agricultural land’s use limits public access, frustrating visitors and
historians. Negotiations for limited access could enhance tourism, as at
Poulnabrone.
Weathering and Environment: The Burren’s harsh climate
accelerates stone erosion, though the karst landscape preserves the
site’s stark beauty.
Folklore Overload: Máire Rua’s exaggerated
tales, while engaging, can obscure the castle’s broader history,
requiring careful interpretation by guides or resources.
Funding: As
a National Monument, OPW maintenance is state-funded, but budget
constraints prioritize stabilization over visitor amenities, unlike
commercialized castles.
The castle’s preservation is adequate for its
ruinous status, but its potential as a cultural hub is limited by access
restrictions and underinvestment in interpretation.