Location: Kerry County Map
Constructed: 15th century
Listowel Castle, located in Listowel, County Kerry, Ireland, is a 15th-century Anglo-Norman castle situated on an elevated site overlooking the River Feale, at the edge of The Square in the town center. Built in the late 13th century by the Fitzmaurice family, Lords of Kerry, it is one of the best-preserved examples of a quadrangular keepless castle in Ireland, though only two of its four towers and part of the curtain wall remain. As a National Monument managed by the Office of Public Works (OPW), it offers seasonal guided tours from June to September and serves as a cultural hub during Listowel’s renowned Writers’ Week festival. The castle’s history reflects the complex dynamics of Anglo-Norman settlement, Gaelic resistance, and English control in north Kerry, with a dramatic past involving sieges, confiscations, and literary connections.
Listowel Castle’s history spans over six centuries,
marked by its strategic role in north Kerry, the Fitzmaurice dynasty’s
prominence, and its survival through rebellion and ruin.
Origins
and Construction (13th–15th Century): The castle’s origins trace to the
late 13th century, when the Fitzmaurice family, a junior branch of the
Anglo-Norman Fitzgeralds, established a stronghold in Listowel (from the
Irish Lios Tuathail, meaning “Tuathal’s fort”). The current structure,
built in the early 15th century, likely replaced an earlier
motte-and-bailey or stone fortification. The Fitzmaurices, titled Lords
of Kerry and later Earls of Kerry, controlled north Kerry from Listowel,
leveraging its position above the River Feale to dominate trade and
defense. The castle was one of several Fitzmaurice strongholds,
alongside Lixnaw and Ardfert, reflecting their regional power. In 1303,
a “castellum de Lystothill” was recorded, suggesting an early fort,
though the quadrangular castle’s construction is dated to c. 1400–1450
based on architectural style.
Turbulent 16th Century: During the
Desmond Rebellions (1569–1583), the Fitzmaurices, led by Thomas
Fitzmaurice, 16th Lord Kerry, aligned with the Gaelic Desmond
Fitzgeralds against Elizabeth I’s forces. In 1579, the castle was a
rebel stronghold, but by 1580, it was captured by English troops under
Sir William Pelham. The 16th Lord Kerry’s surrender in 1583 spared
Listowel from destruction, unlike other Desmond castles. However, the
Fitzmaurices’ lands were curtailed, and the castle’s strategic role
diminished as English control strengthened.
Siege of 1600 (Nine
Years’ War): Listowel Castle’s most famous historical moment occurred in
1600 during the Nine Years’ War (1594–1603). An English garrison of
80–100 men, led by Captain Thomas Wilmot, held the castle against a
2,400-strong Irish force under Thomas Fitzmaurice, 18th Lord Kerry,
allied with Hugh O’Neill. The six-week siege saw intense bombardment,
with the castle’s walls breached by cannon fire. Wilmot’s men, reduced
to 30, surrendered but were massacred at Gort na gCeann (“Field of the
Heads”) after being promised safe passage, a notorious event in local
lore. The castle was briefly held by the Irish but retaken by English
forces under Sir Charles Wilmot in 1601, who spared the 18th Lord Kerry
to secure his allegiance.
Decline and Confiscation (17th–18th
Century): During the Confederate Wars (1641–1653), Listowel Castle was
held by the Fitzmaurices, but its defenses were weakened. By the
Cromwellian conquest (1649–1653), it was surrendered without significant
resistance, and parts were dismantled to prevent re-fortification. In
1662, the castle was restored to William Fitzmaurice, 20th Lord Kerry,
but the family’s Catholic allegiance led to further confiscations during
the Williamite War (1689–1691). By the early 18th century, the
Fitzmaurices relocated to Lixnaw, and Listowel Castle fell into ruin,
its stones reportedly reused for local buildings like the nearby Church
of Ireland.
Modern Era (19th Century–Present): By the 19th century,
the castle was a picturesque ruin, inspiring local folklore and early
photographs. In the 1920s, it was declared a National Monument under the
National Monuments Act. The OPW began conservation in the 1990s,
stabilizing the eastern towers and curtain wall. A major restoration in
2004–2005, costing €1.3 million, included repointing stonework,
rebuilding parapets, and adding a visitor platform, enabling guided
tours from 2005. The castle now hosts cultural events during Listowel
Writers’ Week and serves as a backdrop for the town’s literary identity.
The siege of 1600 is well-documented in English records and local
tradition, but details of the massacre vary, with some sources
suggesting exaggeration to vilify the Irish. The 13th-century
“castellum” reference is ambiguous, possibly referring to a temporary
fort rather than the current castle. The Fitzmaurices’ continuous
ownership until the 18th century is consistent, but their precise role
in the Confederate Wars is less clear, suggesting gaps in the record.
Listowel Castle is a quadrangular, keepless Anglo-Norman castle,
similar to Roscommon Castle, characterized by its symmetrical design
and defensive towers. Though only the eastern half survives, its
restored features highlight 15th-century architecture and later
modifications.
Structure:
Quadrangular Layout: The
original castle formed a rectangular enclosure, approximately 40 x
30 meters, with a high curtain wall and four corner towers. Only the
eastern curtain wall and two D-shaped towers (northeast and
southeast) remain, with the western wall and towers lost to decay
and stone quarrying.
D-Shaped Towers: The surviving towers, three
stories high, feature vaulted chambers and spiral staircases, with
the southeast tower better preserved. Each tower had arrow slits and
upper windows, balancing defense and residential use.
Curtain
Wall: The eastern wall, partially rebuilt in 2005, retains its
battlements and a central arched doorway, likely a secondary
entrance. The wall’s thickness (1.5–2 meters) reflects its defensive
role.
Gatehouse Absence: Unlike Roscommon, no twin-towered
gatehouse survives, though a main entrance likely existed on the
lost western wall facing the Feale.
Defensive Features:
Arrow Slits and Murder-Hole: The towers’ narrow slits allowed
archers to defend the walls, while a murder-hole above the eastern
doorway (restored) protected the entrance.
River Feale: The
castle’s elevated site above the Feale provided natural defense,
with steep banks deterring assaults from the north.
Outer
Defenses: A fosse or ditch likely surrounded the castle, though no
trace remains. An outer bawn or courtyard, common in quadrangular
castles, is inferred but unexcavated.
Architectural Significance:
Listowel’s keepless design, with corner towers integrated into the
curtain wall, mirrors Roscommon and Welsh castles like Harlech,
suggesting 13th-century Anglo-Norman influences. Its 15th-century
rebuild refined these features, with larger windows indicating
residential use by the Fitzmaurices. The castle’s symmetry and scale
set it apart from smaller Gaelic tower houses like Leamaneh or
Oranmore.
Restoration Details: The 2005 restoration added a steel
visitor platform at the southeast tower’s second floor, offering
views of the Feale and town. Repointed stonework and rebuilt
parapets preserve the castle’s silhouette, though some purists
criticize the modern platform’s intrusion. The lost western half,
likely dismantled post-Cromwell, leaves the castle’s footprint
incomplete.
Current State: The ruins are stable, with the eastern
towers and curtain wall accessible via guided tours. The interior is
sparse, with no surviving floors or furnishings, but the vaulted
chambers and staircases evoke its medieval past. Vegetation is
controlled, and safety barriers prevent unauthorized climbing.
The architectural comparison to Welsh castles is plausible but
speculative, lacking direct evidence of a shared designer. The 2005
restoration is well-documented, but the extent of pre-18th-century
residential modifications (e.g., Fitzmaurice manor additions) is
inferred from window sizes, as no interior artifacts survive.
Listowel Castle’s cultural importance stems from its Fitzmaurice
legacy, its role in Kerry’s history, and its integration into Listowel’s
literary identity.
Fitzmaurice Dynasty: The Fitzmaurices’ control
of north Kerry from Listowel underscores their role as Anglo-Norman
elites who adopted Gaelic customs, akin to the Fitzgeralds at
Springfield Castle. Their rebellion during the Desmond and Nine Years’
Wars reflects resistance to English centralization, while their survival
post-1600 highlights strategic alliances. The 1600 massacre at Gort na
gCeann remains a potent symbol of Irish-English conflict in local
memory.
Literary Connections: Listowel, known as “Ireland’s Literary
Capital,” hosts the annual Writers’ Week (late May/early June),
Ireland’s oldest literary festival, drawing figures like Seamus Heaney
and Colm Tóibín. The castle serves as a backdrop for readings,
performances, and events, linking its medieval past to modern
creativity. Writers like John B. Keane and Bryan MacMahon, Listowel
natives, celebrated the town’s heritage, indirectly elevating the
castle’s cultural profile.
Folklore and Identity: Local legends, such
as ghostly sightings tied to the 1600 siege, add mystique, though less
prominent than Leamaneh’s Máire Rua tales. The castle’s name, possibly
linked to a pre-Norman fort of “Tuathal,” ties it to early Irish
history, though this is folkloric. Its riverside setting inspires
descriptions as “Listowel’s crown,” enhancing town pride.
Archaeological Value: As a quadrangular castle, Listowel informs studies
of Anglo-Norman architecture, with parallels to Roscommon and Adare. Its
partial survival offers insights into 15th-century fortification and
post-Cromwellian dismantling, though limited excavations restrict deeper
understanding.
National Monument Status: As a National Monument, the
castle symbolizes Kerry’s medieval heritage, complementing sites like
Ross Castle or Gallarus Oratory. Its restoration reflects Ireland’s
commitment to preserving Anglo-Norman legacies, though its tourism
profile is modest compared to Bunratty or Kilkenny.
The 1600 siege’s
cultural impact is amplified by local storytelling, but English accounts
may inflate the massacre’s scale for propaganda. The castle’s literary
role is significant, but its direct connection to Writers’ Week events
is secondary to venues like the Listowel Arms Hotel, suggesting a
symbolic rather than central function.
Listowel Castle is a seasonal heritage site, open for guided tours
from June to September (Wednesday–Sunday, 9:30 am–5:30 pm, last tour
5:00 pm), managed by the OPW with support from local guides. Outside
tour season, the exterior can be viewed year-round.
Location and
Access:
Address: The Square, Listowel, Co. Kerry, Ireland (GPS:
52.446861, -9.486944).
Directions: Located in Listowel’s town center,
off the N69 (Tralee–Tarbert road), 27 km northeast of Tralee, 70 km from
Killarney, and 100 km from Limerick. From Dublin (3 hours, 260 km), take
the M7/N21/N69. The castle is a 2-minute walk from The Square’s parking.
Public Transport: Bus Éireann routes 13 (Tralee–Limerick) and 272
(Tralee–Tarbert) stop at The Square (5 minutes’ walk). Listowel has no
train station; the nearest is Tralee (30 minutes’ drive). Taxis from
Tralee cost €30–40.
Parking: Free parking at The Square or nearby
streets, with coach spaces for tour groups.
Visitor Experience:
Tours: Free 45-minute guided tours (max 20 people) cover the eastern
towers, curtain wall, and visitor platform, with guides detailing the
Fitzmaurices, the 1600 siege, and architectural features. Access
includes the southeast tower’s vaulted chambers and spiral staircase,
with the platform offering River Feale views. Tours are engaging, with
local guides like Mary Fagan praised for humor and storytelling, though
some visitors note limited interior access due to safety restrictions.
Admission: Free, making it accessible, though donations support
maintenance. Pre-booking is recommended for groups via
heritageireland.ie or +353 87 396 6146.
Duration: Tours last 45
minutes, with 1–1.5 hours recommended for exploring The Square and
nearby park. Off-season, exterior viewing takes 10–20 minutes.
Features: The restored southeast tower, with its staircase and platform,
is the highlight, offering insights into medieval life. The Feale’s
scenic backdrop and the castle’s elevated site create a photogenic
setting, especially at sunset. Informative panels detail the siege and
Fitzmaurice history.
Events: During Writers’ Week (late May/early
June), the castle hosts outdoor readings, music, or performances,
weather permitting. Other events, like Heritage Week (August), feature
historical reenactments or talks.
Reviews: TripAdvisor (4.5/5) and
Google (4.6/5) praise the “well-preserved ruins,” knowledgeable guides,
and free entry, with families appreciating the short, engaging tours.
Some note disappointment at the castle’s partial state (only half
survives) or seasonal closure, and a few report inaccessible towers due
to locked gates or weather.
Nearby Attractions:
Listowel
Writers’ Week venues (The Square, Listowel Arms Hotel).
Seanchaí
Kerry Writers’ Museum (5 minutes’ walk), celebrating John B. Keane and
local authors.
Garden of Europe (10 minutes’ walk), with 12,000 trees
and a Holocaust memorial.
Lartigue Monorail Museum (10 minutes),
showcasing a restored 1880s railway.
Ballybunion Cliffs and Beach (25
km, 25 minutes).
Tralee’s Kerry County Museum (27 km, 30 minutes).
Dining and Amenities: The Square offers pubs like John B. Keane’s (owned
by the playwright’s family), Maid of Erin, and restaurants like Lizzy’s
Little Kitchen or Café Hanna. No on-site facilities exist, but town
restrooms are nearby. Accommodation includes the Listowel Arms Hotel or
local B&Bs.
Tips for Visitors:
Book tours in advance for peak
season (July–August) or Writers’ Week, as slots fill quickly.
Wear
sturdy shoes for uneven stone steps and bring rain gear, as tours
proceed in light rain.
Visit during Writers’ Week for cultural
events, but expect crowds.
Explore The Square post-tour for literary
pubs and the Seanchaí Museum.
Check heritageireland.ie for tour
schedules or closures due to weather or maintenance.
Challenges:
Seasonal Access: Closure from October to May limits visits,
disappointing off-season travelers.
Partial Survival: The missing
western half reduces the castle’s grandeur, with some visitors expecting
a larger site.
Accessibility: The spiral staircase and platform
exclude mobility-impaired visitors, with no lift feasible due to
heritage constraints.
Interpretation: On-site panels are informative,
but some call for digital guides or more signage for off-season
visitors.
The visitor experience benefits from free tours and
Listowel’s literary vibe, but the castle’s seasonal operation and
partial state temper its appeal compared to fully restored sites like
Bunratty.
D-Shaped Towers: The southeast tower’s vaulted chambers and staircase
are well-preserved, offering a glimpse of 15th-century design.
Curtain Wall: The restored eastern wall, with its arched doorway and
battlements, evokes the castle’s quadrangular form.
Visitor Platform:
The 2005 steel platform provides safe access and Feale views, though its
modern look contrasts with the stonework.
River Feale Setting: The
castle’s elevated site above the river enhances its dramatic presence
and historical defensibility.
Literary Link: Its role in Writers’
Week ties it to Listowel’s cultural identity, a rare blend of medieval
and modern.
Listowel Castle aligns with Ireland’s Anglo-Norman castles (e.g., Roscommon, Adare), built to assert control over Gaelic territories, contrasting with smaller tower houses like Leamaneh or Oranmore. Its Fitzmaurice ownership parallels the Fitzgeralds at Springfield, reflecting Norman-Gaelic integration, while the 1600 siege mirrors Tyrrellspass’s 1597 battle in its defiance of English forces. The castle’s ruinous state post-Cromwell echoes Leamaneh’s decline, underscoring English efforts to neutralize Irish strongholds. Its literary connection via Writers’ Week, akin to Thoor Ballylee’s Yeats link, elevates its cultural role, though its historical narrative is less mythologized than Leamaneh’s Máire Rua tales. As a National Monument, it contributes to Kerry’s heritage trail, alongside Ross Castle and Muckross House, but its tourism potential is underexploited due to seasonal access.
Preserving Listowel Castle involves balancing conservation, public
access, and historical integrity:
Weathering: The Feale’s
humidity and Kerry’s wet climate erode stonework, requiring regular
repointing. The 2005 restoration addressed major decay, but ongoing
maintenance is needed.
Stone Loss: The western half’s disappearance,
likely due to 18th-century quarrying, limits the castle’s footprint. No
plans exist for reconstruction, preserving authenticity.
Visitor
Impact: Guided tours minimize wear, but climbing restrictions frustrate
some. The platform reduces pressure on fragile areas.
Funding: OPW
budgets support maintenance, but Listowel’s modest profile compared to
Blarney or Kilkenny limits investment. Local fundraising, tied to
Writers’ Week, supplements efforts.
Historical Gaps: The 1303
“castellum” reference and pre-15th-century fort details are vague,
requiring archaeological surveys. The 1600 massacre’s scale is debated,
with Irish sources suggesting fewer casualties.
The OPW’s restoration
and local engagement ensure the castle’s survival, but expanding
off-season access or digital interpretation could enhance its appeal.