The Casinò di Venezia, located in the Cannaregio sestiere of Venice, Italy, is the world’s oldest gaming establishment, founded in 1638. Housed in the magnificent Ca’ Vendramin Calergi, a Renaissance palace on the Grand Canal, the casino blends historical grandeur with modern entertainment. Renowned for its Venetian elegance, it offers a unique gaming experience amidst ornate frescoes, Murano chandeliers, and a storied past that includes hosting composer Richard Wagner, who died there in 1883. The casino’s secondary venue at Ca’ Noghera, opened in 1999 near Venice Marco Polo Airport, provides a modern, American-style gaming experience.
The Casinò di Venezia’s history is deeply rooted in Venice’s role as
a hub of commerce, culture, and entertainment, reflecting the city’s
innovative approach to regulated gaming.
1638: Founding of the
World’s First Casino
Established in 1638 during the Venice Carnival,
the Casinò di Venezia is recognized as the world’s oldest legal gaming
house. It was initially opened at the Ridotto di San Moisè in the
Palazzo Dandolo, near Piazza San Marco, as a public, state-regulated
venue to control the proliferation of illegal gambling dens in the
Rialto district. Authorized by the Maggior Consiglio (Great Council) of
the Republic of Venice, the Ridotto offered games like biribi and
bassetta, attracting nobles, merchants, and aristocrats. Its creation
marked a pioneering effort in legalizing and regulating gambling,
centuries before similar institutions emerged elsewhere.
1774:
Closure of the Ridotto
In 1774, reformer Giorgio Pisani proposed
closing the Ridotto, citing concerns over moral decay and excessive
gambling among the nobility. The motion passed overwhelmingly, and the
San Moisè venue was shuttered. Gambling continued in private clubs, such
as one in Campo San Barnaba run by the barnabotti (impoverished nobles),
but lacked official sanction.
1936–1946: Revival at the Lido
Legal gambling returned in 1936 with the opening of a summer casino at
the Palazzo del Casinò on the Lido di Venezia, designed by Eugenio
Miozzi in the Rationalist style. This venue operated until the late
1990s, capitalizing on the Lido’s role as a tourist destination during
the Venice Film Festival, which began in 1932. In 1946, the Municipality
of Venice purchased Ca’ Vendramin Calergi to establish a winter casino,
marking the modern era of the Casinò di Venezia.
1959–Present:
Ca’ Vendramin Calergi and Ca’ Noghera
The casino officially moved to
Ca’ Vendramin Calergi in 1959, transforming the Renaissance palace into
a luxurious gaming venue. In 1999, a second location, Ca’ Noghera, was
opened near Marco Polo Airport, introducing Italy’s first American-style
casino with over 5,000 square meters of gaming space. The Casinò di
Venezia is managed by Casinò di Venezia Gioco S.p.A., a company wholly
owned by the Municipality of Venice, under strict state regulation due
to Italy’s concerns about gambling addiction. Despite its historical
prestige, the casino has faced financial challenges, with losses
reported in recent years due to high municipal revenue-sharing (25% of
profits), creating a structural deficit.
Richard Wagner
Connection
The palace is famously associated with Richard Wagner, who
stayed at Ca’ Vendramin Calergi six times between 1858 and 1883. On his
final visit, Wagner rented the mezzanine floor, where he worked on
Parsifal until his death from a heart attack on February 13, 1883. The
Wagner Museum, opened in 1995 and managed by the Associazione Richard
Wagner di Venezia, occupies this space, displaying letters, scores, and
memorabilia. The museum and annual Wagner Days in Venice symposium
underscore the palace’s cultural significance beyond gambling.
The Casinò di Venezia at Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is a masterpiece of
Venetian Renaissance architecture, designed by Mauro Codussi and
completed by the Lombardo family, blending opulence with functionality.
Exterior
Facade: The Grand Canal facade, completed in 1509, is a
stunning example of Venetian Renaissance architecture. Designed by Mauro
Codussi, it features three stories with classically inspired Corinthian
columns dividing each level. The piano nobile and upper floor have tall
French doors topped by arches and a trefoil window, creating a balanced
and elegant silhouette. The facade’s white Istrian stone gleams against
the canal, enhanced by a private water gate for gondola access, a
hallmark of Venetian palazzi. The building’s nickname, “Non Nobis
Domine” (“Not unto us, O Lord”), is inscribed under a ground-floor
window, reflecting the Loredan family’s motto.
Location and Context:
Situated at Cannaregio 2040, the palace overlooks the Grand Canal
between Casa Volpi and Palazzo Marcello, opposite Palazzo Belloni
Battagia and near the Fondaco del Megio. Its proximity to the San
Marcuola vaporetto stop and Santa Lucia Station (12-minute walk) makes
it accessible. The Italian garden, one of the few canal-facing gardens
in Venice, adds to its allure, hosting events and offering scenic views.
Interior
Piano Nobile: The first noble floor features a grand
central hall with Renaissance-style decorations, including frescoes by
Mattia Bortoloni, Palma il Giovane, and Gian Battista Crosato. The Cuori
d’Oro Room, adorned with 15th–17th-century golden leather wall
coverings, showcases Venetian craftsmanship. The Royal Drawing-Room,
remodeled under the Duchess of Berry, displays portraits of French kings
Louis XV and Louis XVI, copied from Versailles originals. The Fireplace
Room, with a 17th-century fireplace framed by African and Veronese stone
columns, features allegorical figures possibly designed by Vincenzo
Scamozzi. These rooms host gala dinners, concerts, and corporate events.
Gaming Rooms: The second floor houses the main gaming areas, with damask
walls, Murano glass chandeliers, and precious paintings creating a
luxurious ambiance. Games include French Roulette, Black Jack, Punto
Banco, Chemin de Fer, Caribbean Poker, and slot machines. The layout
ensures spacious tables, though some visitors note a “dimly lit”
atmosphere compared to modern casinos.
Wagner Museum: The mezzanine
floor, where Wagner lived, is a small museum displaying his letters,
scores, and personal items. Managed by the Richard Wagner Association,
it is open by appointment, offering a cultural contrast to the gaming
floors.
Ristorante Wagner: The ground-floor restaurant, named after
the composer, offers Venetian and international cuisine in a setting
with colorful frescoes and canal views. The lounge bar and garden
provide additional spaces for dining and events, enhancing the palace’s
versatility.
Structural Notes
The palace rests on wooden piles
driven into the lagoon bed, a Venetian engineering staple. Its 28-year
construction period (1481–1509) was remarkably short for the era,
reflecting Codussi’s efficiency and the Lombardo family’s skill. Recent
restorations have addressed humidity and structural wear, preserving the
frescoes and leatherwork.
The Casinò di Venezia offers a blend of traditional and modern
gaming, catering to both casual visitors and seasoned players:
Ca’ Vendramin Calergi:
Table Games: Includes French Roulette, Fair
Roulette, Black Jack, Punto Banco, Chemin de Fer, Caribbean Poker, and
Midi Trente et Quarante. Tables open at 3:30 PM daily, with high-stakes
games like Chemin de Fer attracting players with bets of €5,000–€20,000.
Blackjack rules (e.g., number of decks, dealer hits/stays on soft 17)
vary, and players are advised to check with the casino for specifics.
Slot Machines: Available from 11:00 AM, offering various themes and bet
levels in a dedicated area, blending modern technology with the palace’s
historic setting.
Tournaments: Regular poker tournaments, such as the
WPT National Venice (World Poker Tour), draw international players.
Variants include Texas Hold’em and Caribbean Stud Poker, though Texas
Hold’em cash game tables are no longer at Ca’ Vendramin Calergi
(available at Ca’ Noghera).
Ca’ Noghera:
Opened in 1999, this
5,000-square-meter venue is Italy’s first American-style casino, located
near Marco Polo Airport. It features over 550 slot machines and tables
for Fair Roulette, Black Jack, Caribbean Stud Poker, Punto Banco, Chemin
de Fer, and French Roulette. The modern design contrasts with Ca’
Vendramin’s historic charm, catering to a broader audience.
Entry and
Dress Code: Admission requires a valid ID (passport, driver’s license,
or ID card) and is restricted to those 18+. The €50 admission card
includes a €20 chip or slot credit, cloakroom, a drink, parking (€10 at
AVM), and a free water shuttle from Piazzale Roma. The dress code is
smart casual (no shorts, tank tops, sandals, or flip-flops), with a
jacket recommended for men in the VIP area after 8:30 PM. Jackets are
available for rent at the cloakroom.
Criticisms: Some visitors
complain about the €50 entry fee, noting that casinos in regions like
the French Riviera or Normandy are free. Others report inconsistent
customer service and a “dimly lit” atmosphere, though the architecture
and dining are widely praised. Issues with “client points” allocation
for loyal players have also been raised, particularly at Ca’ Noghera.
The Casinò di Venezia is a cultural landmark, blending Venice’s
historical legacy with modern entertainment:
World’s Oldest
Casino: Founded in 1638, it pioneered regulated gambling, setting a
precedent for public gaming houses worldwide. Its origins in the Ridotto
di San Moisè reflect Venice’s innovative governance during the Republic.
Architectural Gem: Ca’ Vendramin Calergi’s Renaissance design, with
frescoes by Bortoloni and Palma il Giovane, makes it a must-visit for
architecture enthusiasts, even non-gamblers. The palace’s history as a
residence for doges, nobles, and Wagner adds to its allure.
Wagner
Legacy: The Wagner Museum and annual Wagner Days symposium connect the
casino to Venice’s musical heritage, drawing scholars and music lovers.
Wagner’s death in 1883, commemorated by a plaque from Gabriele
d’Annunzio, underscores the palace’s cultural depth.
Film and Event
Venue: The casino has hosted Venice Film Festival events and appeared in
films like Casino Royale (2006), enhancing its global fame. Celebrities
like Claire Danes and Coolio have attended events here, reinforcing its
status as a glamorous hotspot.
Cannaregio Context: Located in
Cannaregio, Venice’s second-largest sestiere, the casino is near
cultural sites like the Fondaco dei Turchi, Ca’ d’Oro, and Venice
Ghetto, enriching its historical setting. Its proximity to Santa Lucia
Station makes it a gateway for visitors arriving by train.
Location:
Ca’ Vendramin Calergi: Cannaregio 2040, 30121 Venice,
Italy. GPS: 45.4437°N, 12.3296°E. Near the San Marcuola vaporetto stop,
12 minutes from Santa Lucia Station, and 16 minutes from the Rialto
Bridge.
Ca’ Noghera: Via Paliaga 4, 30173 Mestre, Italy. Near Marco
Polo Airport (5-minute drive).
Access:
By Vaporetto: Take Line
1 or 2 to San Marcuola (1-minute walk to Ca’ Vendramin). From Piazzale
Roma or Santa Lucia Station, vaporetti run every 10 minutes (€9.50
single ride, €25 24-hour pass). A free water shuttle operates from
Piazzale Roma to Ca’ Vendramin with the €50 admission card.
By Foot:
From Santa Lucia Station, walk via Rio Terà Lista di Spagna to San
Marcuola (12 minutes). From Piazza San Marco, take a vaporetto or walk
via Campo San Polo (25–30 minutes).
By Gondola/Water Taxi: Gondola
tours along the Grand Canal offer views of the facade (€80–€120 for 30
minutes). Water taxis dock at the palace’s water gate (€60–€100 from
Piazzale Roma).
Ca’ Noghera: Accessible by car (free parking) or
shuttle from Marco Polo Airport (10 minutes).
Visiting:
Opening Hours: Open daily (except December 24–25). Ca’ Vendramin: Slot
machines from 11:00 AM, table games from 3:30 PM, closing at 3:00 AM
(Sunday–Thursday) or 4:00 AM (Friday–Saturday). Ca’ Noghera: Similar
hours, with extended poker sessions.
Cost: €50 admission card
(includes €20 chip/slot credit, cloakroom, drink, parking, shuttle).
Free entry for hotel-accredited guests before 6:00 PM. Wagner Museum
visits by appointment (€10, contact +39 041 5297111).
Dress Code:
Smart casual; no shorts, tank tops, sandals, or flip-flops. Men require
a jacket in the VIP area after 8:30 PM (rentable).
Wagner Museum:
Open by appointment via the Richard Wagner Association (+39 041 5297111,
www.wagnervenezia.it). Includes Wagner’s letters, scores, and Parsifal
memorabilia.
Tips for Visitors:
Best Time: Visit early evening
(4:00–6:00 PM) for fewer crowds and twilight canal views. Spring
(April–May) or fall (September–October) offer mild weather. Avoid peak
Carnival season for quieter visits.
Photography: Cameras must be
checked at the cloakroom due to gaming regulations. Exterior shots of
the facade are best from a vaporetto or the opposite bank near Palazzo
Belloni Battagia.
Accessibility: Ca’ Vendramin has limited wheelchair
access due to steps at the water gate; contact the casino for assistance
(+39 041 5297111). San Marcuola vaporetto stop has ramps. Ca’ Noghera is
fully accessible.
Nearby Attractions:
Fondaco dei Turchi
(3-minute walk): Natural History Museum.
Ca’ d’Oro (7-minute walk):
Gothic palace with Galleria Giorgio Franchetti.
Venice Ghetto
(10-minute walk): Historic Jewish quarter.
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
(15-minute walk): Renaissance church with marble facade.
Rialto
Bridge (16-minute walk): Iconic Grand Canal crossing and market.
Dining: Ristorante Wagner offers Venetian and international dishes
(€30–€60 per person). Nearby options include Antiche Carampane (San
Polo) or Osteria Mocenigo (Santa Croce) for local cuisine.
Tours:
Grand Canal boat tours (e.g., Viator, €30–€60) highlight the facade.
Cultural tours including the Wagner Museum are available via the Richard
Wagner Association.
Contact: Casinò di Venezia, +39 041 5297111,
info@casinovenezia.it, www.casinovenezia.it. Wagner Museum:
www.wagnervenezia.it. Tourism info: Venezia Unica, +39 041 2424,
info@veneziaunica.it, www.veneziaunica.it.
The Casinò di Venezia remains a cultural and entertainment landmark,
but faces modern challenges:
Financial Struggles: Despite high
revenues, the casino operates at a loss due to a 25% revenue share with
the Municipality of Venice, creating a “structural imbalance.” This has
drawn scrutiny from Italian courts, with Ca’ Noghera particularly
criticized for favoring certain players in loyalty programs.
Tourism
Impact: Venice’s 30 million annual visitors strain infrastructure, but
the casino’s entry fee and dress code ensure a controlled environment.
Its location in Cannaregio, a less touristy sestiere, offers a quieter
experience.
Preservation: The palace’s frescoes, leatherwork, and
chandeliers require ongoing maintenance to combat humidity and saltwater
damage. The MOSE flood barrier helps, but climate change poses long-term
risks.
Cultural Evolution: The Wagner Museum and event spaces (e.g.,
for the Venice Film Festival) diversify the casino’s role, balancing
gambling with cultural tourism. Plans for future renovations aim to
enhance accessibility and modernize gaming facilities while preserving
the Renaissance aesthetic.