The Palazzo Surian Bellotto is a striking Baroque palace in Venice, Italy, located in the Cannaregio district along the Cannaregio Canal, one of the city’s most prominent waterways. Known for its imposing facade and rich historical significance, the palace reflects Venice’s architectural grandeur and its role as a cultural and diplomatic hub. Built in the 17th century, it has been associated with noble families, illustrious figures like Jean-Jacques Rousseau, and significant moments in Venetian history. Today, it serves as a private residence and cultural venue, housing the innovative Laguna Libre restaurant and jazz club, symbolizing a blend of historical preservation and modern revitalization.
Origins and Construction (17th Century)
The Palazzo Surian
Bellotto was commissioned by the Surian family, a patrician family of
Armenian origin, in the 17th century, with construction likely completed
around 1663 and expansions occurring after 1685. The Surian family,
originally Christian Jacobites, had risen to prominence during the
Crusades, administering the seigneurie of Suro (modern-day Tyre) under
Venetian sovereignty from 1124. By 1648, they secured noble status in
Venice by paying a substantial sum, a common practice for wealthy
families seeking entry into the Venetian aristocracy.
The palace
was designed by Giuseppe Sardi (1624–1699), a notable Venetian architect
also responsible for the nearby Palazzo Savorgnan. Sardi’s attribution
is widely accepted, though some sources note it as speculative. The
palace was constructed to reflect the Surian family’s wealth and status,
with its grand facade intended to dominate the Cannaregio Canal, a key
thoroughfare connecting the Grand Canal to the Venetian Lagoon.
Ownership Transitions
By the late 17th century, the palace was sold
to the Bellotto family, originally from Brescia (though some sources
incorrectly cite Bergamo). The Bellotto family maintained ownership into
the 18th century, during which the palace reached its historical zenith.
In the 18th century, the Palazzo Surian Bellotto became the Venetian
seat of the French Embassy. From September 4, 1743, to August 22, 1744,
the philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau resided in the palace, serving as
secretary to the French ambassador, Pierre-François Comte de Montaigu.
Rousseau’s time in Venice, documented in his Confessions, was marked by
his fascination with the city’s culture, music, and theater, though he
clashed with the ambassador, leading to his departure. A plaque on the
facade commemorates his stay, underscoring the palace’s cultural
significance.
Decline and Decay (19th Century)
Following the
fall of the Venetian Republic in 1797 under Napoleonic conquest, the
Palazzo Surian Bellotto entered a prolonged period of decline. The 19th
century saw the loss of its sumptuous interiors, including original
structures and decorations, as Venice’s economic and political fortunes
waned. The palace’s interiors were irreparably altered, likely due to
neglect, repurposing, or looting, a fate shared by many Venetian palaces
after the Republic’s collapse.
Modern Revival (20th–21st Century)
In the 20th century, the palace transitioned into private ownership,
with parts converted into residential apartments. Unlike many Venetian
palaces now used as hotels or museums, Palazzo Surian Bellotto remains
one of the few historic buildings inhabited by Venetians, preserving its
residential character.
A significant restoration in 2016
transformed the ground floor into Laguna Libre, an ecological and
cultural restaurant and jazz club, opened on December 9, 2016. This
project, guided by green building principles, revitalized the space
while respecting its historical fabric. The restoration was highlighted
in a 2020 documentary on France 3’s Des Racines et des Ailes
(“Notre-Dame, Chartres, Venise: chefs-d’oeuvre en renaissance”), which
portrayed the palace and Laguna Libre as symbols of Venice’s resilience
following the devastating November 2019 acqua alta floods and the
COVID-19 pandemic.
The Palazzo Surian Bellotto is a quintessential example of Venetian
Baroque architecture, characterized by its dramatic facade and
functional layout tailored to the city’s unique canal-based urban
fabric. Its design reflects both the opulence of the 17th century and
the practical constraints of Venetian construction.
Facade
The
palace’s four-story Baroque facade is among the most imposing along the
Cannaregio Canal, towering over neighboring buildings. Key features
include:
Asymmetry: The facade is deliberately asymmetrical, with
its central axis shifted to the left, where the most ornate openings are
located. This design choice, attributed to Sardi, emphasizes the
palace’s portego (central hall) and creates a dynamic visual effect.
Ground Floor: Two arched portals, adorned with maskarons (decorative
faces) and set within rusticated stonework, serve as the main entrances
from the Fondamenta di Cannaregio. The rustication adds texture and
grandeur, typical of Baroque aesthetics.
Piano Nobile (First Floor):
The principal floor features two pairs of Venetian windows (serliane),
each with a central arched window flanked by smaller rectangular ones,
framed by Corinthian columns and balusters. These windows, richly
decorated with maskarons, illuminate the grand portego.
Second Floor:
Similar Venetian windows appear, though some are partially boarded up,
indicating later modifications. Single rectangular windows with stone
frames and balusters fill the remaining bays, echoing the serliane’s
motifs.
Third Floor: Smaller rectangular windows, less ornate, mark
the upper level, capped by a dentilled cornice that crowns the facade.
Materials and Details: The facade is constructed from Istrian stone, a
hallmark of Venetian architecture for its durability and aesthetic
appeal. Elaborate cornices separate each level, enhancing the facade’s
verticality and rhythm.
The facade’s preservation is remarkable, as
it remains the best-conserved element of the palace, despite the loss of
interior grandeur. It is depicted in historical artworks, such as
Francesco Guardi’s View of the Cannaregio Canal (c. 1770) and Joseph
Nicholls’ 18th-century painting, now in the National Trust collection.
Interior
The interior of Palazzo Surian Bellotto has been
significantly altered since its 17th-century heyday. Originally, it
featured sumptuous decorations, including stuccoes, frescoes, luxurious
wooden doors, and marble-framed windows, typical of a Venetian piano
nobile. However, 19th-century neglect led to the loss of these features.
The palace follows a traditional Venetian layout:
Portego: A
grand central hall on the piano nobile, illuminated by the serliane
windows, served as the main reception area for social and diplomatic
functions.
Wings: Two lateral wings extend from the portego, housing
private rooms such as bedrooms, a kitchen, and a dressing room. The
right wing has been modified with a lowered section, creating a
mezzanine with a kitchenette and bathroom.
Entrance: An exclusive
stone staircase from the Fondamenta di Cannaregio leads to the piano
nobile, emphasizing the palace’s prestige.
Modern apartments retain
some Venetian elements, such as high ceilings, authentic marble floors,
and Istrian stone balconies, but the original opulence has been replaced
by functional residential spaces. The ground floor, now occupied by
Laguna Libre, features a restored open space designed for dining and
cultural events, with contemporary decor that respects the building’s
heritage.
Structural Notes
The palace’s shallow right wing and
the absence of its former garden reflect later modifications, possibly
due to spatial constraints or urban development. The original casinò (a
small private entertainment space) may have been located in an adjacent
building, though its exact position is unknown.
The Palazzo Surian Bellotto is not only an architectural gem but also
a cultural landmark with ties to significant historical figures and
artistic representations.
Jean-Jacques Rousseau: Rousseau’s
residency during 1743–1744 connects the palace to Enlightenment
intellectual history. His experiences in Venice, including his exposure
to opera and gondoliers’ songs, influenced his later writings on music
and society. The commemorative plaque on the facade draws visitors
interested in his legacy.
Artistic Depictions: The palace’s facade is
immortalized in Francesco Guardi’s View of the Cannaregio Canal (c.
1770), highlighting its prominence in Venetian cityscapes. It also
appears in Joseph Nicholls’ painting, underscoring its visual impact.
Cultural Venue: Since 2016, the ground-floor Laguna Libre has
transformed the palace into a vibrant cultural hub. It operates as:
A
restaurant serving high-quality, organic, and local cuisine.
The
leading jazz and world music club in northeastern Italy, in
collaboration with Veneto Jazz.
A venue for art and photography
exhibitions, book presentations, and public debates, often in
partnership with NGOs and networks.
The headquarters of Smart Venice,
a research and consultancy firm focused on gender equality, inclusive
innovation, and sustainability.
The 2020 Des Racines et des Ailes
documentary emphasized Laguna Libre’s role in Venice’s cultural and
economic rebirth, positioning the palace as a model for sustainable
heritage preservation.
Today, Palazzo Surian Bellotto balances its historical legacy with
modern functionality:
Private Residences: The upper floors are
divided into private apartments, some of which are available for
purchase or rent. A piano nobile apartment, described by Savills and
Views on Venice Estates, features spacious rooms, Venetian finishes, and
canal views, requiring minor upgrades.
Laguna Libre: The ground-floor
cultural and gastronomic space is open to the public, offering dining,
live music, and events. Its eco-conscious design and community-focused
programming make it a unique destination in Cannaregio.
Location:
Situated between the Ponte dei Tre Archi and Guglie Bridge, the palace
is in a characteristic, less touristy part of Cannaregio, close to
vaporetto stops (Crea and Tre Archi) and amenities like shops, cafes,
and restaurants. Its proximity to the Ghetto, Ca’ d’Oro, and Fondamente
Nove enhances its appeal.
Visiting Information:
The palace’s
exterior and Laguna Libre are accessible to the public, but the private
apartments are not open for tours.
Laguna Libre operates as a
restaurant and event space; check their website for hours and event
schedules.
The facade can be admired from the Fondamenta di
Cannaregio or by boat along the Cannaregio Canal.
The Palazzo Surian Bellotto is a must-visit for those interested in:
Baroque Architecture: Its facade is a standout example of Venetian
Baroque, rivaling other canal-side palaces.
Cultural History:
Connections to Rousseau and the French Embassy offer intellectual
intrigue.
Artistic Legacy: Its depiction in 18th-century paintings
highlights its visual prominence.
Modern Venice: Laguna Libre
provides a contemporary lens on Venetian culture, with organic dining
and live jazz in a historic setting.
Off-the-Beaten-Path Exploration:
Located in vibrant yet quieter Cannaregio, it offers an authentic
alternative to San Marco’s crowds.
Visitors can combine a visit with
nearby attractions like the Ca’ d’Oro, Basilica di San Zanipolo, or the
Jewish Ghetto, creating a rich itinerary in Cannaregio.