The Church of St. Maximus the Confessor, also known as the Church of St. Maxim the Blessed, is a historic Russian Orthodox church located at 4 Varvarka Street in Moscow’s Kitay-gorod district, near the Kremlin and Red Square. Dedicated to two saints—St. Maximus the Confessor, a 7th-century Byzantine theologian, and St. Maxim the Blessed, a 15th-century Moscow holy fool (yurodivy)—the church is a cultural and architectural gem on one of Moscow’s oldest streets. Built in its current form between 1698 and 1699, with later additions like its iconic leaning bell tower (1827–1829), the church stands as a testament to Moscow’s medieval and early modern heritage, surviving fires, Soviet desecration, and urban development.
Location: 4 Varvarka Street, Moscow, Russia, 109012, in the
Kitay-gorod district, a short walk east of the Church of St. Varvara and
near Zaryadye Park (closest metro stations: Kitay-gorod, Ploshchad
Revolyutsii).
Dedication: Consecrated to St. Maximus the Confessor
(c. 580–662), a Byzantine monk and theologian who defended Orthodox
Christology against Monothelitism, and St. Maxim the Blessed (d. 1434),
a Moscow holy fool known for his asceticism and prophetic sayings.
Construction: The current structure was built in 1698–1699,
incorporating parts of a 1568 church, with renovations in the 1730s
(Baroque style) and a bell tower added in 1827–1829. Earlier churches on
the site date back to the 14th century.
Significance: An active
Russian Orthodox church and a federal cultural heritage site, it is
notable for its historical continuity, architectural evolution, and the
“leaning tower” bell tower, a Moscow curiosity. It forms part of
Varvarka Street’s historic ensemble, often called an “open-air museum.”
Current Status: Fully operational, hosting regular liturgies under the
Moscow Patriarchate’s Zaryadye deanery. Open to visitors during
non-service hours, with free admission (donations encouraged).
Nickname: Known as Moscow’s “leaning tower” due to the bell tower’s
visible tilt, caused by structural settling.
The Church of St. Maximus the Confessor has a complex history, rooted
in Moscow’s medieval religious landscape and shaped by fires,
reconstructions, and Soviet-era challenges.
Early Origins
(14th–16th Centuries):
The church’s site was originally occupied by a
wooden church dedicated to Saints Boris and Gleb, documented in the 14th
century. This church was significant as the burial place of St. Maxim
the Blessed (d. 1434), a holy fool revered for enduring heat and cold in
near-nakedness, with sayings like “The winter is fierce, but Paradise is
sweet.” His relics, uncovered incorrupt in 1547, became a pilgrimage
focus.
In 1568, a stone church was built, likely incorporating parts
of the earlier structure. It was rededicated to St. Maxim the Blessed,
reflecting his growing veneration. The church’s proximity to Varvarka
Street, a major trade route, tied it to Kitay-gorod’s merchant
community.
Current Structure (1698–1829):
The present church
was constructed in 1698–1699, funded by Moscow merchants Maxim
Sharovnikov and Maxim Verkhovitinov, with support from Tsaritsa Natalya
Kirillovna, mother of Peter the Great. An unknown architect designed it,
incorporating remnants of the 1568 church.
A devastating fire in 1737
damaged the church, leading to renovations in the Baroque style, which
added ornate detailing to the interior and exterior.
Between 1827 and
1829, a new bell tower was built in the Empire style, reflecting the
neoclassical trends of the post-Napoleonic era. Its tilt, noticed soon
after construction, was likely due to uneven soil settling, earning it
the moniker “Moscow’s leaning tower.”
Soviet Era (1920s–1991):
In the 1930s, the Soviet regime closed the church, desecrating it by
removing icons, relics, and liturgical items. It was repurposed for
secular use, possibly as a warehouse or office, a common fate for
religious sites. The relics of St. Maxim the Blessed were lost, likely
destroyed or hidden, and their current status remains unknown.
Varvarka Street, renamed Razin Street (1933–1993) after the Cossack
rebel Stepan Razin, saw significant destruction, with the Zaryadye
district razed for the Rossiya Hotel. The church’s heritage status,
bolstered by its architectural value, spared it from demolition.
Between 1965 and 1967, Soviet authorities restored the exterior as a
cultural monument, preserving its Baroque and Empire features, though it
remained closed for worship.
Post-Soviet Revival (1991–Present):
In the early 1990s, the church was returned to the Russian Orthodox
Church, resuming its religious function. Restoration efforts revived the
interior with new icons and frescoes, though the original relics of St.
Maxim the Blessed were not recovered.
The church was rededicated to
both St. Maxim the Blessed and St. Maximus the Confessor, reflecting its
historical ties to the former and the theological importance of the
latter, a key figure in Orthodox Christology.
The opening of Zaryadye
Park in 2017, adjacent to Varvarka, has boosted the church’s visibility,
drawing tourists exploring the street’s historic temples, including the
Church of St. Varvara and the Znamensky Cathedral.
The Church of St. Maximus the Confessor is a striking example of late
17th-century Russian architecture, with Baroque renovations and an
Empire-style bell tower, notable for its tilt.
Exterior:
Form
and Style: The church is a rectangular, single-domed structure, typical
of Moscow’s parish churches, with a white plaster exterior that
contrasts with Varvarka’s red-brick buildings. Its green dome, topped
with a golden Orthodox cross, is modest, reflecting its community role.
Main Volume: The rectangular nave, built in 1698–1699, incorporates
brickwork from the 1568 church, visible in the lower walls. The apse,
housing the altar, extends eastward, while a refectory connects to the
bell tower on the west.
Bell Tower: The two-tiered bell tower, added
in 1827–1829, is the church’s most distinctive feature. Designed in the
Empire style with neoclassical elements (e.g., pilasters, cornices), it
leans noticeably to one side, a result of soil instability. The tilt,
while structurally safe, gives it a whimsical charm, often compared to
Pisa’s Leaning Tower.
Decorative Elements: Baroque renovations in the
1730s added ornate window frames and plasterwork to the façade, with
subtle curves and flourishes. The white walls are accented with green
and gold, enhancing its visual appeal, especially in snowy or autumnal
settings.
Interior:
Layout: The interior is compact, with a
small worship hall, altar, and refectory, designed for intimate parish
services. A staircase may lead to an upper room, used for smaller
gatherings, as seen in similar churches like St. Varvara’s.
Iconostasis and Icons: The iconostasis, restored post-1991, features
modern icons of St. Maximus the Confessor, St. Maxim the Blessed, and
other saints. While the original 16th–17th-century icons were lost,
replacements maintain traditional Orthodox iconography, with vibrant
colors and gold backgrounds.
Frescoes: The walls and ceiling likely
have post-Soviet frescoes depicting scenes from the lives of the two
saints and biblical narratives. Visitors describe the interior as
“simple but spiritual,” with candlelight enhancing the ambiance.
Condition: The interior is well-maintained, though its simplicity
reflects the church’s parish status rather than the opulence of
cathedrals like the Dormition in the Kremlin. The loss of St. Maxim’s
relics is a noted absence.
Architectural Context:
The church’s
design bridges Muscovite traditions (rectangular plan, single dome) with
Baroque influences (ornate detailing) and Empire-style additions (bell
tower). It complements Varvarka’s eclectic ensemble, from the
16th-century Old English Court to the neoclassical Church of St.
Varvara.
The leaning bell tower, while unintentional, adds a unique
character, making it a point of interest in architectural studies and
tourist guides.
Saints Honored:
St. Maximus the Confessor (c. 580–662): A
Byzantine monk, theologian, and scholar, Maximus is celebrated for
defending dyophysitism (Christ’s two natures, human and divine) against
Monothelitism, a heresy claiming Christ had only one will. Tortured and
exiled for his faith, he died in 662 in Georgia, earning the title
“Confessor” for suffering without martyrdom. His feast days are January
21 and August 13 in the Orthodox Church. His writings, including the
Philokalia and Mystagogy, profoundly influenced Orthodox theology.
St. Maxim the Blessed (d. 1434): A Moscow holy fool, Maxim lived
ascetically, wandering nearly naked and offering prophetic wisdom.
Buried at the original Boris and Gleb church, his incorrupt relics,
uncovered in 1547, made the site a pilgrimage center until their loss in
the Soviet era. His feast day is November 11.
The dual dedication
reflects the church’s historical role as a shrine to Maxim the Blessed
and its later theological alignment with Maximus the Confessor,
emphasizing Orthodoxy’s intellectual and ascetic traditions.
Historical Role:
The church’s 14th-century origins tie it to Moscow’s
early Christianization, with the Boris and Gleb church marking
Kitay-gorod’s religious landscape. Its rededication to Maxim the Blessed
in the 16th century reflects the Russian veneration of holy fools, seen
as spiritual guides.
Varvarka Street, a trade and pilgrimage route,
placed the church at the heart of Moscow’s merchant community, with
patrons like Sharovnikov and Verkhovitinov underscoring its economic
ties.
The 1698–1699 rebuilding, supported by Tsaritsa Natalya,
highlights the church’s favor under the Romanovs, while the 1827–1829
bell tower reflects post-Napoleonic architectural trends.
Soviet
and Post-Soviet Context:
The church’s closure and desecration in the
1930s mirror the Soviet assault on religion, yet its survival and 1960s
restoration as a monument show selective preservation of cultural
heritage. The loss of St. Maxim’s relics remains a poignant loss.
Its
1990s revival aligns with Russia’s post-Soviet Orthodox resurgence, with
the church serving as a spiritual anchor in a gentrifying Kitay-gorod.
The nearby Zaryadye Park, opened in 2017, has revitalized the area,
making the church a cultural bridge between Moscow’s past and present.
Cultural Landmark:
The church is part of Varvarka’s “Street of
Churches,” alongside St. Varvara, St. George, and the Znamensky
Cathedral, forming a historic ensemble that evokes medieval Moscow. Its
leaning bell tower adds a whimsical note, featured in guidebooks and
social media.
The church’s dual dedication enriches its spiritual
narrative, linking local devotion (Maxim the Blessed) with universal
Orthodox theology (Maximus the Confessor), appealing to both pilgrims
and scholars.
Operational Status: An active parish church under the Moscow
Patriarchate, hosting liturgies (typically mornings and evenings),
baptisms, and special services, such as akathists to St. Maximus the
Confessor and St. Maxim the Blessed. Open to visitors during non-service
hours, generally 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM, though schedules vary (check via
patriarchia.ru or +7-495-698-3378).
Condition: The exterior is in
excellent condition, with white walls, green dome, and leaning bell
tower well-maintained, as seen in recent photos. The interior, restored
post-1991, is functional but simpler than grander churches, with modern
icons and frescoes. Minor wear (e.g., faded paint) is addressed through
ongoing upkeep.
Access: Free entry, with donations (~100–200 RUB)
supporting maintenance. Photography without flash is permitted, but
visitors must avoid disrupting services. A small gift shop may sell
icons and prayer books.
Events: The church celebrates feast days for
St. Maximus the Confessor (January 21, August 13) and St. Maxim the
Blessed (November 11), with special liturgies. It may participate in
citywide Orthodox events, such as bell-ringing festivals.
What to Expect:
The church’s white façade, green dome, and leaning
bell tower create a striking presence on Varvarka Street, especially
against Zaryadye Park’s modern backdrop. The tilt of the bell tower,
visible from the street, is a popular photo opportunity, often described
as “quirky” and “charming.”
The interior is compact and spiritual,
with a candlelit iconostasis and frescoes fostering a serene atmosphere.
Visitors note its simplicity compared to the Kremlin’s cathedrals but
appreciate its authenticity as a working parish church.
The church’s
location on Varvarka, a pedestrian-friendly street lined with historic
sites, makes it part of a rich cultural walk. Nearby Zaryadye Park
offers modern attractions like the Floating Bridge, contrasting with the
church’s medieval roots.
The absence of St. Maxim’s relics, likely
lost in the Soviet era, is a noted disappointment for pilgrims, but the
church’s historical significance and active worship compensate.
Practical Tips:
Getting There: Take the metro to Kitay-gorod
(Tagansko-Krasnopresnenskaya or Kaluzhsko-Rizhskaya lines) or Ploshchad
Revolyutsii (Arbatsko-Pokrovskaya Line), a 5–7-minute walk. From Red
Square, walk past St. Basil’s, turn left at Vasilyevsky Spusk, and
proceed east on Varvarka past the Church of St. Varvara. Buses (e.g.,
No. 255, M5) stop at Zaryadye.
Cost: Free entry; donations (~100–200
RUB) are appreciated. Gift shop items (if available) cost ~500–2000 RUB
($5–20 USD).
Language: Signage is in Russian, with minimal English.
Guided tours of Varvarka (e.g., via mos-tour.moscow) in English include
the church, costing ~1000 RUB ($10 USD). Basic English may be spoken by
clergy or staff.
Dress Code: Modest attire is required (headscarves
for women, no shorts or bare shoulders). Shoe covers may be provided
(small fee, ~50 RUB).
Currency: Cash in Russian Rubles (RUB) for
donations or purchases, as Western credit cards (Visa/Mastercard) may
not work due to sanctions. UnionPay cards are an alternative.
Photography: Allowed without flash; avoid photographing worshippers. The
leaning bell tower and Varvarka’s historic skyline are popular for
photos.
Best Time: Weekday mornings for fewer crowds. Spring or
autumn offer pleasant walks, while winter’s snow enhances the church’s
white exterior. Services provide an authentic Orthodox experience (check
schedules).
Safety: The area is safe, with police patrols near the
Kremlin. Be cautious of pickpockets in tourist-heavy Zaryadye.
Amenities: No on-site restrooms or cafe; use Zaryadye Park’s facilities
(2-minute walk) or Gostiny Dvor cafes (5-minute walk).
Nearby
Attractions:
Zaryadye Park: Modern park with Floating Bridge and Ice
Cave (2-minute walk).
Church of St. Varvara: Neoclassical church at 2
Varvarka (1-minute walk).
Old English Court: 16th-century museum
(2-minute walk).
Red Square: St. Basil’s Cathedral, Lenin’s
Mausoleum, GUM (5-minute walk).
Kremlin: Cathedral Square, Armory
Chamber (10-minute walk).
Romanov Chambers: Boyar residence museum
(3-minute walk).
Visitor Feedback:
Positives: Tripadvisor
reviews highlight the church’s “unique” leaning bell tower and
“peaceful” interior, calling it a “hidden gem” on Varvarka. Its free
entry and historical context are praised, with the street’s ensemble
evoking “old Moscow.”
Critiques: Some note the small size and lack of
English signage, with the interior’s simplicity less impressive than
grander churches. The loss of St. Maxim’s relics disappoints pilgrims,
and the bell tower’s tilt can be hard to spot without guidance.
Soviet Legacy: The loss of St. Maxim’s relics and original icons in
the 1930s is a significant cultural gap. While the interior has been
restored, its modern furnishings lack the historical depth of pre-Soviet
artifacts.
Urban Pressures: Varvarka’s tourist influx, amplified by
Zaryadye Park, strains the church’s quiet character. Nearby construction
noise (e.g., park expansions) can disrupt services or visits.
Maintenance: As a parish church, it relies on donations and limited
state funding, leading to occasional wear (e.g., faded plaster). The
bell tower’s tilt, while stable, requires monitoring to prevent further
settling.
Geopolitical Context: Sanctions in 2025 may reduce Western
visitors, but the church attracts domestic and Asian tourists. Russia’s
visa requirements necessitate advance planning for international
travelers.