The Church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker "Red Ringing" (also known as "Krasnaya Zvonitsa" or "Red Chime" in Russian) is a historic Russian Orthodox church located in Moscow’s Kitay-gorod district, one of the city’s oldest and most culturally significant neighborhoods. Its name, "Red Ringing," derives from the Russian word "krasniy" (meaning "beautiful" or "red") and refers to the distinctive and melodious sound of its bells.
Location: 9A Nikolsky Lane, Moscow, Russia (Metro station:
Kitay-gorod).
Historical Names: Also referred to as the Church of St.
Nicholas in Zvonary (after the Kremlin bell ringers who lived nearby) or
St. Nicholas Bozhedomsky (linked to the Vorontsov estate).
Dedication: The church is dedicated to St. Nicholas the Wonderworker, a
4th-century bishop revered in the Russian Orthodox Church as a
miracle-worker, patron of travelers, sailors, and children.
Significance: The church is a notable example of Moscow’s religious
architecture, reflecting the city’s historical and spiritual heritage.
Its location in Kitay-gorod places it near major landmarks like the
Kremlin and Red Square, making it a point of interest for cultural and
religious tourism.
The Church of St. Nicholas "Red Ringing" has a rich history dating
back to at least the 16th century, with multiple reconstructions and
significant events shaping its development.
Origins (16th
Century):
The church was first mentioned in 16th-century chronicles,
likely as a wooden structure, a common building material in early
Moscow.
Its nickname "Red Ringing" stems from the beautiful sound of
its bells, which were crafted as early as 1473 or 1573, according to
some sources. One notable bell, inscribed in a foreign language, was
later donated to the Kolomenskoye Museum after the church’s closure in
the Soviet era.
The church served the local community, including
Kremlin bell ringers (hence the name "in Zvonary"), who were responsible
for ringing the Kremlin’s bells.
Stone Reconstruction (1561 and
Beyond):
In 1561, merchant Grigory Tverdikov funded the construction
of a stone church to replace the wooden one, which had likely burned
down, as fires were frequent in Moscow at the time.
The stone church
was rebuilt and restored in 1657, marking a significant milestone in its
architectural evolution.
Between 1762 and 1781, the church underwent
a major reconstruction, overseen by architect Karl Blank and financed by
Senator Ivan Vorontsov, whose estate was nearby. This project
transformed the church into its current form, incorporating Baroque and
Classical elements.
Soviet Era (1927–1994):
Like many Russian
churches, St. Nicholas "Red Ringing" was closed by the Soviet
authorities in 1927 (some sources cite 1933). Its bell tower was
dismantled, and the building was repurposed as a warehouse, a common
fate for religious sites during the Soviet anti-religious campaigns.
The church suffered significant damage, with its domes and upper bell
tower tiers removed, and its interior stripped of religious artifacts.
Post-Soviet Restoration (1994–Present):
The church was returned
to the Russian Orthodox Church in 1994, and restoration efforts began to
revive its religious and architectural heritage.
By the early 2000s,
the church was fully restored, with services resuming and the interior
redecorated with icons and frescoes. The bell tower was rebuilt, though
the original bell was not returned from the Kolomenskoye Museum.
Today, it functions as an active parish church, hosting regular
liturgies and attracting both worshippers and visitors interested in its
history and architecture.
The Church of St. Nicholas "Red Ringing" is a fine example of Russian
ecclesiastical architecture, blending Baroque and Classical styles from
its 18th-century reconstruction.
Exterior:
Structure: The main
building is rectangular, a common form in Russian church architecture,
with a single apse on the eastern side for the altar.
Style: The
church features Baroque elements, such as ornate detailing and curved
lines, combined with Classical influences, including symmetry and
restrained elegance, reflecting the architectural trends of the
1760s–1780s under Karl Blank.
Bell Tower: The reconstructed bell
tower, originally destroyed in the Soviet era, is a prominent feature.
It historically housed the famous bell responsible for the "Red Ringing"
nickname. The tower is simpler in design compared to the main building
but complements its aesthetic.
Domes: The church has a single dome,
typical of smaller parish churches, topped with a golden cross. The
dome’s green roofing contrasts with the whitewashed walls, a classic
Russian Orthodox color scheme.
Garden: A small, well-maintained
garden surrounds the church, adding to its serene atmosphere. Visitors
note blooming crocuses in early spring, enhancing the site’s charm.
Interior:
Icons and Decorations: The interior is richly decorated
with precious icons, many of which were restored or newly commissioned
after 1994. The iconostasis (the screen separating the altar from the
nave) is a focal point, featuring traditional Russian Orthodox
iconography.
Frescoes: The walls are adorned with frescoes depicting
scenes from the life of St. Nicholas and other biblical narratives,
painted in the vibrant colors typical of Orthodox churches.
Atmosphere: Reviewers describe the interior as intimate and spiritually
moving, with a well-appointed layout that feels welcoming despite the
church’s small size. The space is designed to foster a sense of
reverence, with candlelit icons and a quiet ambiance.
Location
Context:
Situated in Nikolsky Lane (formerly Yushkov Drive or
Vladimirova Drive), the church connects Varvarka and Ilyinka Streets,
two historic thoroughfares in Kitay-gorod. Its proximity to the
pedestrian Kuznetsky Most area makes it easily accessible.
The
church’s urban setting contrasts with its tranquil garden, creating a
peaceful oasis amidst Moscow’s bustling center.
St. Nicholas the Wonderworker:
St. Nicholas, a 4th-century bishop
of Myra (modern-day Turkey), is one of the most venerated saints in the
Russian Orthodox Church, known for his miracles and kindness. He is the
patron saint of travelers, sailors, children, and prisoners, and his
legacy inspired the modern Santa Claus.
In Russia, St. Nicholas is
particularly beloved, with numerous churches dedicated to him, including
over a dozen in Moscow alone. The "Red Ringing" church is one of these,
reflecting his enduring popularity.
The church’s dedication to St.
Nicholas aligns with its historical role as a spiritual center for local
merchants and bell ringers, who saw him as a protector.
Historical Role:
The church was closely tied to the Vorontsov family,
serving as their private chapel (a "house church") during the 18th
century. This connection to the aristocracy underscores its historical
prominence.
Its association with Kremlin bell ringers highlights
Moscow’s medieval musical and religious traditions, as bell ringing is a
significant art form in Russian Orthodoxy
Soviet and Post-Soviet
Context:
The church’s closure and repurposing during the Soviet era
reflect the broader suppression of religion under communism. Its
restoration in the 1990s symbolizes the resurgence of Orthodoxy in
post-Soviet Russia, a trend supported by both the state and the public
under leaders like Vladimir Putin.
The return of religious services
in 1994 and the church’s inclusion in Moscow’s cultural heritage sites
demonstrate its role in preserving Russian identity and spirituality.
Modern Significance:
The church hosts regular Divine Liturgies,
baptisms, and other Orthodox services, serving a small but active
parish.
Its location near major tourist attractions makes it a stop
for visitors exploring Kitay-gorod’s historic churches and the nearby
Kremlin, Red Square, and St. Basil’s Cathedral.
Operational Status: The church is fully operational as a Russian
Orthodox parish, with daily or weekly services (schedules vary; check
the church’s official website or contact the parish for details).
Condition: The church is in excellent condition following its post-1994
restoration. The exterior and interior are well-maintained, and the
garden adds to its appeal.
Accessibility:
Public Access: The
church is open to visitors during non-service hours, though photography
may be restricted inside, as is common in active Orthodox churches.
Visitors are expected to dress modestly (e.g., headscarves for women, no
shorts).
Proximity: Its location near the Kitay-gorod metro station
and Kuznetsky Most pedestrian area makes it easily accessible by public
transport or on foot from central Moscow landmarks.
Events: In 2017,
Moscow’s churches, including those dedicated to St. Nicholas,
participated in a citywide bell-ringing event to welcome a relic of St.
Nicholas from Bari, Italy, highlighting the saint’s enduring importance.
Similar events may occur for major Orthodox feasts.
What to Expect:
The church’s small size creates an intimate
atmosphere, ideal for quiet reflection or attending a service. Visitors
praise the beauty of its icons and the serene garden.
Services are
conducted in Church Slavonic, with a traditional Orthodox format, which
may be moving even for non-believers due to the chanting and candlelit
ambiance.
The surrounding Kitay-gorod district offers additional
attractions, including other historic churches, the Zaryadye Park, and
dining options like the Lilienthal Bar (0.09 km away).
Practical
Tips:
Getting There: Take the Moscow Metro to Kitay-gorod
(Tagansko-Krasnopresnenskaya or Kaluzhsko-Rizhskaya lines). The church
is a short walk from the station, along Nikolsky Lane.
Nearby
Accommodations: The Boris Godunov Hotel (0.20 km away) is a convenient
option for visitors.
Visiting Hours: Check the church’s schedule
online or via the Russian Orthodox Church’s Moscow diocese website, as
hours vary. Services are typically held in the morning and evening.
Cultural Sensitivity: Respect Orthodox customs, such as covering
shoulders and knees, and avoid loud conversations or flash photography
inside.
Currency and Payments: Donations to the church are typically
in Russian Rubles (RUB). Due to sanctions, Western credit cards
(Visa/Mastercard) may not work; carry cash or use UnionPay cards.
Nearby Attractions:
Kremlin and Red Square: Approximately 1 km
away, a 10–15 minute walk.
Zaryadye Park: A modern park with stunning
views, about 0.5 km away.
Kuznetsky Most: A pedestrian shopping
street with cafes and boutiques, just steps from the church.
Other
Churches: The Church of St. John the Baptist at the Shoryginsky
Almshouse and other Kitay-gorod churches are nearby, offering a broader
exploration of Moscow’s religious heritage.
Soviet Legacy: The church’s closure and damage during the Soviet era
reflect the challenges faced by religious sites in Russia. Its
successful restoration is a testament to post-Soviet efforts to reclaim
cultural heritage, though some original artifacts (like the historic
bell) remain in museums.
Urban Pressures: Located in a busy district,
the church faces challenges from urban development and tourism, but its
small garden and historic status help preserve its tranquil character.
Geopolitical Context: Sanctions and travel restrictions in 2025 may
limit Western visitors, but the church remains accessible to domestic
tourists and pilgrims from "friendly" countries (e.g., China, India).