Boarstall Tower, located in the village of Boarstall, Buckinghamshire, England, is a remarkable 14th-century moated gatehouse that stands as a testament to medieval architecture, fortification, and history. Now a Grade I listed building and a National Trust property, it is the sole surviving remnant of a once-larger fortified manor house, Boarstall House, which was demolished in 1778. With its moat, gardens, and storied past spanning over seven centuries, Boarstall Tower offers a fascinating glimpse into medieval life, the English Civil War, and the evolution of a historic site.
Origins and Legend
Boarstall Tower’s history is intertwined with
local legend and documented records. According to tradition, in the 11th
century, King Edward the Confessor granted land in the area to a man
named Nigel (or Neil) for slaying a ferocious wild boar that had been
terrorizing Bernwood Forest. Nigel is said to have built a mansion on
the land, naming it "Boar-stall" (from Old English, meaning "Boar
House") in memory of the beast. As part of the reward, he received a
horn crafted from the boar’s tusk, described as "of a dark brown colour,
variegated and veined like tortoise-shell," measuring two feet four
inches long, tipped with silver gilt, and fitted with a leather strap
for wearing around the neck. The legend claims that possession of this
horn signified lordship over the manor of Boarstall. While the horn’s
current whereabouts are unclear, manorial records from 1265 confirm that
the lord of Boarstall was the ceremonial keeper of Bernwood Forest,
lending credence to the legend’s connection to the area’s history.
The name "Boarstall" itself derives from Old English burh
("fortification") and steall ("settlement" or "site"), suggesting a
fortified location, which aligns with the manor’s later development. The
proximity to the royal palace at Brill further supports the plausibility
of royal grants and ceremonial roles in the area.
Construction
and Fortification
The existing gatehouse, known as Boarstall Tower,
was constructed in 1312 by John de Haudlo, lord of Boarstall Manor,
after receiving a "licence to crenellate" from King Edward II. This
royal permission allowed him to fortify his residence with a defensive
wall of lime and stone, a privilege that underscored his wealth and
status. Dendrochronology (tree-ring dating) of the tower’s internal
beams confirms construction began around 1312, indicating rapid work
following the licence. The gatehouse was designed to protect Boarstall
House, a fortified manor, and was unusually grand for its time, likely
serving as both a defensive structure and a symbol of prestige. Its
design is thought to resemble the gatehouse of Tonbridge Castle in Kent,
where de Haudlo or his father served as custodian, suggesting
architectural influences from other fortifications.
The moat,
which surrounds three sides of the property and likely once enclosed the
entire site (about three acres), is believed to predate the gatehouse,
possibly originating in the 13th century. This indicates that a
substantial manor existed at Boarstall before de Haudlo’s
fortifications.
English Civil War
Boarstall Tower played a
significant role during the English Civil War (1642–1651), reflecting
its strategic importance due to its proximity to Royalist-held Oxford (8
miles away) and Parliamentarian bases like Aylesbury. In 1643, King
Charles I, who controlled the nearby village of Brill, established a
Royalist garrison at Boarstall. When Brill fell to Parliamentarian
forces in 1643, the Boarstall garrison was also captured. John Hampden,
a prominent Parliamentarian leader, used the fortified manor as a base
to launch attacks on Oxford. In 1644, Hampden abandoned the site, and
Royalist Colonel Henry Gage recaptured it, reportedly subjecting the
manor to heavy cannon fire. The incumbent, Penelope, Lady Dynham, was
forced to flee in disguise. Cannon damage is still visible above the
tower’s entrance.
In May 1645, Parliamentarian forces under Sir
Thomas Fairfax attacked Boarstall but failed to take it. A year later,
in 1646, Fairfax returned, besieging the Royalist garrison led by Sir
William Campion for nearly 10 weeks. On June 10, 1646, Campion
surrendered after learning of the king’s imminent surrender at Oxford.
To prevent Parliamentarian use of the village, the Royalists demolished
Boarstall’s church and houses, leaving only the tower, manor house, and
a nearby farmhouse standing.
Post-War and Demolition
After the
Civil War, the manor was restored by Lady Dynham, but tragedy struck in
1777 when the young son of Sir John Aubrey, then-owner, died from
suspected ergotism (a disease caused by contaminated rye grain, mistaken
at the time for poisoning or witchcraft). Convinced the house was
cursed, Sir John and Lady Aubrey demolished Boarstall House in 1778,
leaving only the gatehouse. The couple relocated to Dorton House, and
the tower fell into disuse.
Modern History
In 1691, the Aubrey
family had acquired the estate, and around 1769, landscape designer
Lancelot "Capability" Brown visited Boarstall, advising Sir John Aubrey
on garden enhancements, possibly including tree planting (e.g., a group
of sweet chestnut trees still standing). However, no major landscape
changes were implemented. By 1901, the last Aubrey heir died, and the
tower was left empty, with its gardens used for pasture.
In 1925,
Bertha Jennings-Bramley leased the tower, converting it into a residence
and hosting notable figures like actors Laurence Olivier and Vivien
Leigh, who considered purchasing it but were deterred by the spiral
staircases’ safety risks for their children. In 1941, philanthropist
Ernest Cook, founder of the Ernest Cook Trust, purchased the tower and
moated area, donating it to the National Trust in 1943. The Trust
restored the tower in 1998–1999, and it is now tenanted, with limited
public access.
Boarstall Tower is a three-story moated gatehouse, constructed from
stone with a crenelated parapet, arrow slits, and gargoyles, embodying
medieval defensive architecture. Its design, while functional, was
ostentatious for its time, reflecting John de Haudlo’s wealth and status
rather than purely military needs. Key architectural elements include:
Moat and Drawbridge: Originally accessed via a drawbridge over the
moat, the tower’s entrance was fortified for defense. In 1615, the
drawbridge was replaced with a wooden bridge, and new windows were
added, reflecting a shift toward residential use. The moat, now a scenic
feature with gardens and a duck decoy, enhances the tower’s picturesque
setting.
Defensive Features: The gatehouse retains medieval elements
like a belfry, cross loops (slits for archers), and crenellations
(battlements). These features, while practical, were also symbolic of
power. A stone-lined "secret passage" reportedly linked the tower to the
moat or manor, though its exact purpose remains speculative.
Interior: The interior chambers, particularly the first-floor banqueting
and entertaining hall, have remained largely unaltered since the 17th
century. The hall, modified in 1615 for use as a hunting lodge or
pavilion, features period windows and a medieval ambiance. Spiral
staircases lead to upper floors and the roof, though access to the roof
is restricted for safety reasons due to steep stairs.
Exterior: The
tower’s exterior is virtually unchanged since its 1615 modifications,
preserving its medieval character. Cannon damage from the Civil War is
visible above the entrance, adding to its historical authenticity.
Gardens: The surrounding gardens, restored by the National Trust,
include formal elements and a moat that now serves as a duck decoy. A
group of mature sweet chestnut trees, possibly planted on Capability
Brown’s advice, stands southeast of the tower.
The tower’s
resemblance to Tonbridge Castle’s gatehouse (built 1260) suggests de
Haudlo drew inspiration from contemporary fortifications, adapting their
style to create a grand yet functional structure.
Boarstall Tower is significant for several reasons:
Medieval
Architecture: As a well-preserved 14th-century gatehouse, it offers
insight into medieval fortification practices and the social aspirations
of the gentry. Its grandeur reflects the era’s emphasis on status
through architecture.
English Civil War: The tower’s role as a
contested garrison highlights its strategic importance and the region’s
volatility during the conflict. Stories of sieges, cannon fire, and Lady
Dynham’s escape add a human dimension to its military history.
National Trust Stewardship: As a National Trust property, the tower is
preserved for public education and enjoyment. Its donation by Ernest
Cook underscores the importance of philanthropy in heritage
conservation.
Cultural Connections: The tower’s association with
figures like Laurence Olivier and Vivien Leigh, as well as its
appearance in the TV series Midsomer Murders (as Ingrid Lockston’s home
in the episode "Crime and Punishment"), ties it to 20th-century cultural
history.
Local Legend: The boar-slaying legend, while possibly
apocryphal, enriches the site’s folklore and connects it to Anglo-Saxon
traditions of land grants and ceremonial roles.
Boarstall Tower is a tenanted property, meaning it is privately
occupied, which limits public access. The National Trust offers guided
tours on select dates, primarily on Wednesdays and Bank Holidays between
May and September, typically from 2:00 PM to 5:00 PM. Visitors are
advised to check the National Trust website
(www.nationaltrust.org.uk/boarstall-tower) for current opening times and
ticket prices, as the tower is not open year-round. Tours are
informative, led by knowledgeable guides who cover the tower’s history,
including its Civil War sieges and notable visitors. The gardens and
moat are accessible during tours, and a small chapel and graveyard are
located nearby.
Accessibility: The tower requires climbing steep
spiral staircases, making it unsuitable for wheelchairs, pushchairs, or
those with limited mobility. Sturdy footwear is recommended.
Facilities: A toilet is available, but amenities are minimal due to the
site’s small size. Parking is provided in a grass car park near the
entrance.
Experience: Reviews praise the tower’s unique setting,
informative tours, and well-maintained gardens but note its limited
opening hours and small scale, suggesting it may not warrant a dedicated
visit unless combined with nearby attractions like Boarstall Duck Decoy
or Brill’s windmill.
The tower’s Grade I listing ensures its
preservation, and ongoing National Trust efforts maintain its structural
integrity and historical authenticity. Archaeological investigations,
such as those led by Gary Marshall in recent years, aim to uncover more
about the manor’s layout and gardens, enhancing understanding of the
site’s evolution.