Cholmondeley Castle

Location: Cholmondeley, Cheshire  Map

 

Cholmondeley Castle, located in the civil parish of Cholmondeley near Malpas, Cheshire, England, is a striking Gothic Revival mansion that, despite its name, functions as a grand country house rather than a defensive fortress. Built in the early 19th century, it replaced earlier structures on a site occupied by the Cholmondeley family since the 12th century. Renowned for its romantic architecture, extensive ornamental gardens, and historical significance, the castle is a Grade II* listed building, with its park and gardens listed as Grade II in the Register of Historic Parks and Gardens.

 

Historical Background

The Cholmondeley family, one of Cheshire’s prominent gentry, has held the estate since at least the 12th century, with Robert de Cholmondeley recognized as the first Lord of Cholmondeley around 1200. The name "Cholmondeley" (pronounced "CHUM-lee") derives from an Old English forename, Ceolmund, meaning "ship" and "protection." The family’s enduring presence is reflected in their hereditary role as Lord Great Chamberlain, a position currently held by David Cholmondeley, the 7th Marquess, responsible for royal affairs in the Palace of Westminster.

The earliest recorded structure was a timber-framed hall on a moated platform, built in the 16th century. In 1571, Sir Hugh Cholmondeley rebuilt this medieval home in the Elizabethan style, a timber-framed structure surrounded by a moat, constructed by master carpenter William Fawcomer. During the English Civil War (1641–1651), the Cholmondeley family, staunch Royalists, faced significant challenges. Positioned between the Royalist stronghold of Chester and the Parliamentarian town of Nantwich, the hall was besieged multiple times and surrendered in 1644, with estates sequestered and rents diverted to parliamentary coffers.

In 1688, the family’s fortunes improved when the 1st Earl of Cholmondeley supported William of Orange during the Glorious Revolution. By 1701, Hugh Cholmondeley, 1st Earl, commissioned William Smith of Warwick to encase the hall in brick, adding classical features like giant columns and balustraded parapets. In 1712, the Earl consulted John Vanbrugh for a new design, though it was never executed. By 1722, wrought-iron gates and railings by Robert Bakewell enclosed the forecourt.

The 18th century saw neglect, with the estate nearly bankrupted by the 3rd Earl. In 1770, George Cholmondeley, 4th Earl and later 1st Marquess, inherited the property and opted to demolish most of the old hall. Construction of the current Gothic-style castle began in 1801, designed primarily by the Marquess himself in collaboration with William Turner of Whitchurch, Shropshire. After the Marquess’s death, architect Robert Smirke extended the house between 1817 and 1819, adding turrets and towers to complete its castellated appearance.

During World War II, Cholmondeley Castle served multiple military purposes. From July to October 1940, its grounds housed troops of the Czechoslovak government-in-exile, and it later supported preparations for Operation Anthropoid, the assassination attempt on Nazi official Reinhard Heydrich. The castle also functioned as a Royal Naval Auxiliary Hospital, treating servicemen with severe nervous conditions.

Until her death in November 2015, the castle was occupied by Lavinia, Dowager Marchioness of Cholmondeley, mother of the current 7th Marquess, who resides at the family’s other seat, Houghton Hall in Norfolk. The castle remains a private residence and is not open to the public, but its gardens and parkland are accessible during the summer season.

 

Architectural Significance

The gardens and parkland, covering approximately 240 hectares, are a highlight of Cholmondeley Castle and listed as Grade II in the Register of Historic Parks and Gardens since June 10, 1985. The formal gardens were first laid out in the 17th century by George London, but after 18th-century neglect, they were reorganized by William Emes, who also designed the landscape park. In the 20th century, Lavinia, Dowager Marchioness, transformed the gardens into one of the north of England’s best-kept secrets, cultivating diverse plant collections over 60 years.

Spanning 70 acres, the gardens feature:
Temple Water Garden: The centerpiece, with a lake housing two islands, a sandstone temple, a rotunda, and a dolphin-carved bridge. It includes a rock garden, cascade, and architectural entrances, framed by magnolias, rhododendrons, and camellias.
Rose Garden: Recently redesigned with over 800 plantings, it features two contrasting “Rose Rooms” with vibrant blooms and a fragrant ambiance.
Lavinia Walk: A double herbaceous border showcasing seasonal color and botanical diversity.
Silver Garden: A reimagined terrace garden with silver foliage, salvia, and eryngium spikes for textural contrast.
Arboretum and Tower Hill: Ornamental woodlands with panoramic views of the Cheshire countryside, including glimpses of four castles and an Iron Age fort.
Lakeside and Nature Trails: Paths around lakes and woodlands, rich with daffodils in spring and vivid autumn foliage.
The parkland, originally designed in the late 17th century, includes 500 acres with two lakes, mixed woodlands (e.g., Moss Wood, Long Plantation), and farmland supporting rare-breed cattle, sheep, and goats, such as longhorn cattle. The gardens participate in the National Garden Scheme, offering plants for sale and hosting events like Shakespeare performances, jazz evenings, and vintage car rallies.

 

Current State and Preservation

Cholmondeley Castle remains a well-maintained private residence, though inaccessible to the public. The gardens and parkland, open from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Sundays, and bank holidays, are the primary visitor attraction. The estate is managed by the Cholmondeley family, with the 7th Marquess overseeing its legacy. The gardens are meticulously cared for, with ongoing projects like the Rose Garden’s redesign ensuring their vibrancy.

Challenges include uneven terrain, shallow drops, tree roots, and water hazards, requiring sensible footwear and supervision for children. Some areas are restricted for wheelchair access, but staff assistance is available. The estate’s infrastructure, including the farm shop, café, and converted lodges (e.g., one used as a holiday cottage), supports visitor amenities.

 

Cultural Significance and Local Impact

Cholmondeley Castle is a cultural and historical landmark in Cheshire, embodying the region’s aristocratic heritage and Gothic Revival aesthetics. Its gardens, described as a “hidden gem,” attract horticulture enthusiasts, families, and event-goers. The estate hosts diverse events, including Deva Fest, equestrian competitions, and weddings, leveraging its picturesque setting. The Cholmondeley Arms, a converted schoolhouse on the A49, and the Castle Farm Shop enhance local tourism.

The castle’s World War II role, particularly its connection to the Czechoslovak forces and Operation Anthropoid, adds a layer of international significance. Personal anecdotes, such as a visitor recalling their father’s time as a Czechoslovak soldier stationed there, highlight its emotional resonance. The estate’s rare-breed farm, children’s play areas (e.g., The Den with natural features and a bug hotel), and wildlife (e.g., koi carp, llamas, African pygmy goats) make it family-friendly.

 

Visitor Experience

Visiting Cholmondeley Castle Gardens is a rewarding experience, particularly for those interested in horticulture, history, or leisurely outdoor activities. Key details include:

Access: Located at SY14 8AH, off the A49 near the Cholmondeley Arms pub. The What3Words location is “relatives.urban.solution.” Parking is available, but vehicles share routes, so caution is advised.
Tickets: A £50 Cholmondeley Gardens Membership offers unlimited access on open days (excluding certain events). Historic Houses Association members and RHS members (in May and September) enter free with valid cards. Blue Light discounts and Gardeners World 2-for-1 cards are accepted.
Facilities: The Tea Room, open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., serves specialist teas, homemade cakes, and light lunches, catering to dietary needs. The Castle Farm Shop sells estate produce and includes a post office. Picnic spots, a plant shop, and children’s play areas enhance the experience.
Activities: Visitors can explore the Temple Water Garden, Rose Garden, and nature trails, ideal for walks or photography. The Den and traditional play areas entertain children, while events like vintage car rallies or outdoor Shakespeare performances add variety.
Best Times: Early spring for bulbs, late spring for rhododendrons, summer for flowers, and autumn for tree colors.
Tripadvisor reviews praise the gardens’ beauty and the farm shop’s quality, with highlights like the “stunning” azaleas and delicious brunch bagels. Some visitors inquire about insect repellent due to gnats and horse flies, recommending general repellents. The gardens’ cascading layout and castle backdrop create a serene, photogenic setting, though the castle’s closure to the public may disappoint some.

 

Recommendations for Visitors

Preparation: Wear sturdy shoes for uneven terrain and bring insect repellent in warmer months. A camera is ideal for capturing the gardens and castle exterior.
Planning: Check opening days and event schedules at www.cholmondeleycastle.com. Combine a visit with nearby attractions like Beeston Castle or Nantwich, both within 11.5 miles.
Experience: Opt for a guided group tour for deeper insights, or enjoy a leisurely picnic by the lake. Families should explore The Den for creative play.
Accessibility: Request staff assistance for mobility needs, as some paths are challenging. Keep dogs on leads and supervise children near water hazards.