Location: Hyde Parish, Bedfordshire Map
Constructed: 15th century
Someries Castle, located in the Parish of Hyde near Luton, Bedfordshire, England, is a Scheduled Ancient Monument with a rich history and unique architectural significance. Despite its name, Someries Castle is not a traditional castle but a fortified manor house, constructed in the 15th century. Its historical importance, early use of brick, and surviving ruins make it a fascinating site, though it remains somewhat overlooked due to its proximity to Luton Airport and its state of disrepair.
The name "Someries Castle" derives from William de
Someries, who owned a moated manor house on or near the site in the 13th
century. The site’s current structure, however, was commissioned by Sir
John Wenlock, a prominent figure in 15th-century England. Wenlock, born
around 1400, was a soldier, statesman, Knight of the Garter, Member of
Parliament, Speaker of the House of Commons, and High Sheriff of
Bedfordshire and Buckinghamshire. He acquired the Someries estate in
1430 and began constructing the mansion soon after, with work likely
starting around 1448.
Wenlock’s career was marked by political
volatility during the Wars of the Roses. He initially fought for the
Lancastrian cause but switched allegiance to the Yorkists after the
Battle of Towton in 1461, earning titles such as Baron Wenlock and Chief
Butler of England. However, he returned to the Lancastrian side and met
his demise at the Battle of Tewkesbury in 1471. According to tradition,
Wenlock was killed by his own commander, the Duke of Somerset, who
blamed his indecisiveness for the Lancastrian defeat. Wenlock’s death
halted construction of Someries Castle, leaving the mansion incomplete,
as noted by Tudor historian John Leland during his visit in the 1530s.
After Wenlock’s death, the estate passed to the Rotheram family,
with Thomas Rotherham, Bishop of Lincoln and later Archbishop of York,
among its notable owners. By 1606, the mansion had at least 25 rooms,
and the 1671 Hearth Tax Returns recorded 23 hearths, indicating
significant size. King James I reportedly visited in 1605 when the
property was owned by a Rotherham descendant. The estate later became
part of the Luton Hoo estate in 1724, and much of the structure was
demolished in 1742, possibly to create a romantic folly within the
landscaped grounds of Luton Hoo. The surviving gatehouse and chapel,
along with adjacent garden earthworks, are what remain today.
Someries Castle is celebrated as one of the earliest
brick buildings in England, a distinction that underscores its
architectural importance. While brick had been used in England since
around 1330, the elaborate brickwork at Someries, particularly in the
gatehouse, represents an early and sophisticated application of the
material in residential architecture. The mansion’s construction began
in the 1430s, with the gatehouse built around 1448 and the chapel in the
1460s.
The surviving structures include:
Gatehouse: Styled
like a castle barbican, the gatehouse features bastions flanking an
entrance passage that once led to a courtyard. It incorporates a lodge
and includes a brick-built newel stair with steps supported by a
spiraling barrel vault, showcasing advanced masonry techniques. The
gatehouse’s machicolated design and polygonal flanking towers, though
partially ruined, reflect a blend of defensive aesthetics and
residential grandeur.
Chapel: Attached to the northeast end of the
gatehouse, the chapel measures approximately 16 meters by 5 meters. It
features a large Perpendicular Gothic window in the gable end, a
hallmark of late medieval ecclesiastical architecture. The chapel’s
walls, though roofless, remain nearly full height, preserving much of
their original form.
Main Residence Platform: The main block of the
residence, now reduced to a raised platform with low, irregular
earthworks, lies northeast of the garden earthworks. Traces of a
substantial brick wall are visible in the northeast corner, hinting at
the mansion’s former extent.
Formal Garden Earthworks: Adjacent to
the ruins, a 16th- or 17th-century garden survives as a rectangular
earthwork (100m x 80m) enclosed by a bank and ditch. It contains a
central square mound (40m x 40m, 1m high), quartered by raised walkways
that once defined flower beds. This garden may have been laid out on the
site of William de Someries’ 13th-century fortified house.
The
mansion’s incomplete state and partial demolition in the 18th century
have left only fragments of its original layout, but the surviving
brickwork is notable for its craftsmanship. The gatehouse and chapel, in
particular, demonstrate the transition from stone to brick in English
architecture, a shift that became more common in the Tudor period.
Today, Someries Castle is a ruin, with only the
gatehouse, chapel, and adjacent earthworks remaining. The walls of the
gatehouse and chapel survive nearly to their full height, though they
lack a roof, exposing them to the elements. The site’s condition has
deteriorated over time, with reports of graffiti, overgrowth, and damage
from weeds and nettles. In February 2007, the castle was closed to the
public for safety repairs, during which scaffolding was erected,
inadvertently damaging some of the original brickwork. It reopened in
2008, but maintenance remains minimal, and some visitors have criticized
the lack of care, noting that the site is “starting to show damage from
undergrowth” and is not wheelchair accessible.
The site’s
location, adjacent to the runway of London Luton Airport, adds to its
challenges. The noise of planes overhead and the urban sprawl of modern
Luton contrast sharply with the site’s medieval origins, making it feel
isolated yet oddly juxtaposed with modernity. Access is via a poorly
maintained, pothole-ridden farm track off Copthall Road, which visitors
describe as “horrendous” and suitable only for 4x4 vehicles. Limited
verge parking is available near the site, but the track’s condition
deters some visitors.
Despite these issues, Someries Castle
retains its status as a Scheduled Ancient Monument, recognized for its
historical and architectural significance. Historic England lists it as
“Someries Castle: a medieval magnate’s residence and formal garden
remains” (List Entry 1008452), emphasizing its value as a rare example
of early brick architecture and medieval garden design.
Someries Castle holds a unique place in local history
and folklore. Its association with Sir John Wenlock has fueled rumors
that his ghost haunts the ruins, particularly the chapel and gatehouse,
where visitors have reported strange noises. These tales, while
unverified, add an element of intrigue, making the site a draw for those
interested in the paranormal.
The castle’s proximity to Luton
Airport also creates an unusual cultural juxtaposition. Visitors can
watch planes take off and land while exploring the ruins, blending
medieval history with modern aviation. This contrast has made Someries a
niche destination for plane spotters and history enthusiasts alike. The
site’s quiet, often deserted nature—described as a “hidden gem” by
locals—enhances its appeal as a peaceful retreat, ideal for picnics or
photography, despite its state of disrepair.
Visiting Someries Castle is a unique but modest
experience. The site is freely accessible, with no admission fee, and
parking is available next to the farm for free, though visitors must
navigate the rough track. There are no facilities, such as restrooms or
visitor centers, and signage is limited, with a few informational boards
providing basic historical context. Visitors are advised to photograph
the signs to better visualize the site’s original layout, as the ruins
alone can feel underwhelming without context.
The site is popular
for walks, with trails like the 10.6 km Someries Castle Walk (an
out-and-back route) and a shorter circular route offering easy,
family-friendly paths through the surrounding fields. These routes can
be muddy after rain, so sturdy shoes are recommended. The walk from
Someries Arch Road or London Road provides a scenic approach, with
rolling hills and views of the manor’s ruins. Cyclists can also access
the site via a partly paved, partly gravel track, which offers a cardio
workout due to small hills.
Reviews on platforms like Tripadvisor
highlight mixed experiences. Some praise the “interesting history” and
“amazing views,” appreciating the site’s quiet charm and free access.
Others lament its neglect, describing it as “in dreadful condition” with
“no care and attention” from local authorities. The ruins are compact,
with only the gatehouse and chapel to explore, so visits typically last
less than an hour. The site’s proximity to Luton Airport (a 15-minute
drive from M1 Junction 10a) makes it a convenient stop for travelers,
but its off-the-beaten-track location requires planning.
Preparation: Bring sturdy shoes, long sleeves, and
pants to avoid stinging nettles. A camera or smartphone is useful for
photographing signs and ruins.
Access: Drive cautiously on the farm
track or park at the junction with Copthall Road and walk the remaining
550 meters. Alternatively, take public transport to Luton (5 miles away)
and walk or cycle.
Activities: Combine a visit with the Someries
Castle Walk for a longer outing. Bring a picnic to enjoy the grassy
areas, which remain dry even after rain.
Expectations: Temper
expectations for a grand castle; the site is a small, ruined manor
house. Focus on its historical significance and the unique brickwork.