Cabrits National Park aka Fort Shirley

Cabrits National Park

Location: 20 mi (32 km) North of Roseau  Map

Area: 1,313 acres (531 ha)
Entrance Fee: $ 2.50
Open: 8am-6pm
Established: 1986

 

Cabrits National Park, located on the northwest coast of Dominica near the town of Portsmouth, is a historical and ecological treasure that encapsulates the island’s complex past and natural splendor. Covering approximately 1,313 acres (531 hectares), the park occupies a volcanic peninsula known as the Cabrits, derived from the Spanish word cabrito (goat), a nod to the animals once kept there by sailors. Established as a national park in 1986, it is best known for Fort Shirley, an 18th-century British garrison that stands as a testament to Dominica’s colonial struggles, alongside its rich biodiversity and strategic coastal position overlooking Prince Rupert Bay. As of April 10, 2025, Cabrits National Park remains a vital site, blending restored ruins, scenic trails, and marine reserves into a compelling narrative of Dominica’s history from indigenous times through European colonization to modern conservation efforts.

 

Name

"Cabrits" is the Spanish, French and Portuguese term for goats. Goats were released on the island by sailors so that there would be fresh meat for the next landing.

 

History

Pre-Colonial and Indigenous Roots

Before European arrival, the Cabrits peninsula was part of the domain of the Kalinago (Carib) people, who inhabited Dominica—called Waitukubuli in their language, meaning “tall is her body”—for centuries prior to 1493. Archaeological evidence, such as pottery shards and shell middens, suggests the Kalinago used the area for fishing and as a vantage point over Prince Rupert Bay, one of the Caribbean’s finest natural harbors. The peninsula’s twin volcanic domes—West Cabrit (560 feet) and East Cabrit (460 feet)—formed by eruptions millions of years ago, offered a defensible position and abundant resources, though no permanent settlements are documented there. The Kalinago’s presence persisted into the colonial era, shaping early interactions with Europeans and leaving a cultural imprint still felt in the park’s name and its role as the northern terminus of the Waitukubuli National Trail.

 

European Exploration and Early Colonial Period (1493–1700s)

Christopher Columbus sighted Dominica on November 3, 1493, naming it after the Latin word for Sunday (Dominica), but Spain made little effort to colonize the island due to its rugged terrain and fierce Kalinago resistance. The Cabrits area remained largely untouched until the 17th century, when French settlers began exploiting Dominica’s northern coast for timber—particularly the valuable gommier tree—and small-scale agriculture. By the late 1600s, French loggers and fishermen frequented Prince Rupert Bay, calling the peninsula “Les Cabrits” for the goats they released there as a food source, a practice that stuck despite minimal permanent settlement.

The Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle in 1748 declared Dominica a neutral territory between France and Britain, but this status was short-lived. The British formally claimed the island in 1763 under the Treaty of Paris, ending the Seven Years’ War, though French influence lingered. The Cabrits’ strategic location—guarding the bay and offering a clear view of approaching ships—made it a prime military site as colonial powers vied for control of the Caribbean sugar trade and countered piracy.

 

Construction of Fort Shirley and British Era (1765–1854)

The British began fortifying the Cabrits in 1765, initially erecting basic defenses to protect Portsmouth and Prince Rupert Bay from French incursions and privateers. Named Fort Shirley after Sir William Shirley, the British governor of Massachusetts who advocated Caribbean expansion, the site evolved into a major garrison between 1770 and 1778 under Governor Thomas Shirley (no relation). Construction peaked in the late 18th century, driven by fears of French retaliation during the American Revolutionary War (1775–1783), when France allied with the American colonies against Britain.

At its height, Fort Shirley spanned over 200 acres within the Cabrits peninsula, comprising more than 50 stone buildings—including barracks, officers’ quarters, powder magazines, and seven gun batteries mounting 35 cannons. The fort’s design leveraged the twin volcanic hills, with batteries positioned to command the bay and inland approaches. Enslaved Africans and local laborers built the fort under harsh conditions, their work evident in the sturdy limestone and volcanic rock walls that endure today. By 1802, over 600 troops were stationed there, making it one of Britain’s largest Caribbean garrisons, alongside smaller outposts like the Douglas Bay Battery.

The fort saw action during the Napoleonic Wars, notably repelling a French attack in 1805, but its military role waned after the 1815 Treaty of Paris stabilized British dominance. As steamships replaced sail and sugar declined, Fort Shirley was abandoned in 1854, its cannons silenced and buildings left to the encroaching jungle. The British withdrawal marked the end of its active military history, though its ruins remained a silent witness to Dominica’s colonial past.

 

Decline and Rediscovery (1854–1980s)

For over a century after its abandonment, Fort Shirley and the Cabrits peninsula fell into obscurity, overtaken by rainforest vegetation. The site’s isolation—accessible only by boat or rough trails—preserved its structures from looting or development, though hurricanes and tropical decay took a toll. Local communities in Portsmouth used the surrounding waters for fishing and the land for small-scale farming, but the fort itself was largely forgotten, its cannons rusting amid creeping vines.

In the 20th century, Dominica’s push toward independence—achieved on November 3, 1978—sparked renewed interest in its heritage. Historian Lennox Honychurch, a Dominican scholar, began advocating for the Cabrits’ preservation in the 1970s, recognizing Fort Shirley’s historical value. His efforts, coupled with growing eco-tourism interest in Dominica’s pristine landscapes, led to the area’s designation as a national park in 1986 under the National Parks and Protected Areas Act. The park’s creation aimed to protect both its natural and cultural assets, encompassing the peninsula, adjacent wetlands, and a marine reserve in Prince Rupert Bay.

 

Restoration and Modern Era (1980s–Present)

Restoration of Fort Shirley began in the 1990s, spearheaded by Honychurch and funded by the Dominican government, UNESCO, and private donors like the Cabrits Trust Fund. Initial efforts cleared overgrown vegetation, revealing the fort’s layout—officers’ quarters with panoramic views, a restored powder magazine, and several cannons repositioned on their mounts. By 2004, seven buildings were fully restored, including the Officers’ Quarters, now a visitor center with exhibits on the fort’s history and Kalinago artifacts. The project employed local masons, blending traditional techniques with modern conservation, earning praise as a model of heritage restoration.

The park’s broader ecosystem also gained attention. The Cabrits Swamp, a brackish wetland at the peninsula’s base, supports mangroves and migratory birds, while the marine reserve—home to coral reefs and sea turtles—extends its ecological reach. In 2006, the Waitukubuli National Trail’s Segment 14 was routed through the park, ending at Fort Shirley, cementing its status as a hiking destination. Cruise ship tourism boosted visitation, with 10,000–15,000 annual visitors by the 2010s, drawn by boat trips from Portsmouth and guided tours.

Hurricane Maria in September 2017, a Category 5 storm, severely damaged the park, toppling trees, flooding the swamp, and scattering debris across Fort Shirley. Restoration efforts resumed swiftly, with voluntourism and government funding repairing trails and structures by 2020. As of 2025, the park thrives, hosting events like the annual Cabrits Jazz Festival (launched post-Maria) and offering trails to West and East Cabrit peaks, where hikers enjoy 360-degree views of Dominica’s north coast and Guadeloupe on clear days.

 

Geography

Location and Regional Context

Cabrits National Park is situated at approximately 15.58°N latitude and 61.47°W longitude, on Dominica’s northwestern tip, about 25 miles (40 kilometers) north of the capital, Roseau. The park lies on a peninsula known as the Cabrits, which juts into Prince Rupert Bay, one of the Caribbean’s finest natural harbors. This bay, sheltered by the peninsula and the mainland, stretches 2 miles (3.2 kilometers) wide and serves as a vital anchorage for ships, historically and today. The park’s northern boundary aligns with the island’s coastline, facing the Dominica Channel, with views of Guadeloupe, 25 miles (40 kilometers) away on clear days. To the south and east, it borders Portsmouth, Dominica’s second-largest town, while the west opens to the Caribbean Sea.

The park’s position near the northern terminus of the Waitukubuli National Trail (Segment 14) ties it into Dominica’s broader network of natural attractions, connecting it to inland rainforests and volcanic peaks like Morne Diablotins, 10 miles (16 kilometers) southeast. Its coastal setting contrasts with the island’s mountainous interior, making it a unique ecological and scenic outlier.

 

Topography

The Cabrits peninsula is dominated by two volcanic domes, remnants of Dominica’s geologically active past:
West Cabrit: Rising to 560 feet (171 meters) above sea level, this is the taller and more prominent peak, offering panoramic views of Prince Rupert Bay and the Caribbean Sea.
East Cabrit: Slightly lower at 460 feet (140 meters), it complements its twin, creating a distinctive double-humped silhouette visible from Portsmouth.

These hills, formed by volcanic eruptions millions of years ago during the Miocene epoch, are part of a larger volcanic complex that shapes Dominica’s rugged landscape. The peninsula extends roughly 1 mile (1.6 kilometers) north-south and 0.5 miles (0.8 kilometers) east-west, connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus that widens into a low-lying swamp. The terrain slopes steeply from the peaks to the coast, with rocky cliffs dropping into the sea on the northern and western edges, while gentler inclines lead to the swamp and bay on the south and east.

Fort Shirley, the park’s historic centerpiece, occupies a saddle between the two hills at about 150–200 feet (45–60 meters) elevation, its stone structures blending into the volcanic rock. Trails wind up both peaks, with the West Cabrit trail offering a strenuous 45-minute climb to a lookout tower, while East Cabrit’s path is shorter but equally rewarding, both revealing the park’s dramatic topography.

 

Coastal and Marine Features

The park’s coastline is a mix of rugged cliffs and sheltered bays:
Northern and Western Shores: Steep, rocky cliffs plunge into the Caribbean Sea, fringed by narrow black sand beaches formed from volcanic ash and basalt. These shores are exposed to ocean swells, limiting swimming but offering dramatic vistas.
Eastern Shore: Facing Prince Rupert Bay, the coastline softens into a gentle curve, with calmer waters ideal for kayaking and snorkeling near the marine reserve.

The Cabrits Marine Reserve, encompassing 1,053 acres (426 hectares) of the park’s total area, extends offshore from the peninsula’s western and northern edges. This underwater zone features vibrant coral reefs—branching and brain corals—teeming with tropical fish (parrotfish, sergeant majors), sea turtles, and occasional dolphins. The bay’s depth reaches 60–100 feet (18–30 meters), dropping off sharply beyond the reefs, while shallow areas near the shore host seagrass beds and marine nurseries. The reserve’s boundary aligns with Douglas Bay to the north, enhancing its ecological connectivity.

 

Wetlands and Isthmus

The Cabrits Swamp, a brackish wetland at the peninsula’s base, spans the isthmus linking it to the mainland. Covering about 20–30 acres (8–12 hectares), this low-lying area—barely above sea level—floods seasonally, blending freshwater runoff from the hills with tidal saltwater from the bay. Mangroves (Rhizophora mangle and Avicennia germinans) dominate, their tangled roots stabilizing the swamp and supporting a rich ecosystem of crabs, fish, and wading birds like herons and egrets. The swamp’s muddy expanse contrasts with the park’s uplands, acting as a natural buffer and biodiversity hotspot.

 

Vegetation and Ecology

Cabrits National Park showcases Dominica’s ecological diversity across its varied zones:
Dry Scrub Forest: The hillsides, exposed to coastal winds and less rainfall, feature drought-resistant vegetation—cacti, acacias, logwood, and sea grape trees. This contrasts with the island’s wetter interior rainforests.
Rainforest Pockets: Shaded ravines and northern slopes host wetter microclimates, with mahogany, gommier, and giant ferns, draped in vines and epiphytes like bromeliads.
Wetlands: Mangroves and swamp grasses thrive in the brackish isthmus, interspersed with wildflowers and sedges.
Coastal Vegetation: Coconut palms and sea almonds line the bay’s edge, adding a tropical flair.

The park’s biodiversity includes over 50 bird species—Sisserou parrots, hummingbirds, frigatebirds—alongside iguanas, anole lizards, and land crabs. The marine reserve adds sea turtles, rays, and reef fish, making Cabrits a compact yet rich ecological tapestry.

 

Climate

Cabrits National Park experiences a tropical rainforest climate (Köppen Af), moderated by its coastal location:
Temperature: Averages 75–85°F (24–29°C) year-round, with cooler nights on the hills (70–75°F or 21–24°C).
Rainfall: Annual precipitation ranges from 60–80 inches (1,500–2,000 mm), lower than Dominica’s interior (up to 300 inches), due to a partial rain shadow from Morne Diablotins. The wet season (June–November) brings heavy showers, while the dry season (December–May) offers clearer skies.
Winds: Trade winds from the northeast buffet the cliffs, tempering humidity and shaping the scrub forest.

Hurricanes, like Maria in 2017, occasionally reshape the landscape, felling trees and flooding the swamp, though recovery is swift in this resilient ecosystem.

 

Human Geography and Infrastructure

The park’s layout integrates natural and historical features:
Fort Shirley: Nestled between the hills, the restored 18th-century British fort includes stone buildings, cannons, and trails, covering 200 acres of the terrestrial zone.
Trails: The Waitukubuli National Trail (Segment 14) ends here, with paths to West and East Cabrit peaks (1–2 hours round-trip) offering rugged hikes and scenic overlooks.
Access: Entry is via Portsmouth, with a short boat ride from Indian River or a 15-minute walk from town to the park’s southern gate near the swamp. A visitor center at Fort Shirley provides maps and exhibits.

The park’s isolation—no roads penetrate the peninsula—preserves its wildness, though a jetty at the bay facilitates cruise ship access.

 

Recreational opportunities

The national park has a network of walking trails and the final stage of the Waitukubuli Trail (segment 14) runs from Capuchin to Cabrits.[2] There are also guided tours for tourists. There is a jetty and a diving school on the southern coast.