El Salvador

El Salvador is located in Central America. Its neighboring countries are Guatemala and Honduras. Most of the natural beauties are in the department around Santa Ana.

El Salvador is only a "banana republic" in a figurative sense and as such has repeatedly been the victim of US interventions. Instead, in the 19th century it was dependent on indigo cultivation and later on coffee as the main monoculture product for the world market. Today, the only evidence of the numerous German immigrants of the late 19th century is the place name Berlin (Berlín) in the department of Usulután.

Since the coup by the fascist Maximiliano Hernández Martínez in 1931 (in office until 1944), all subsequent presidents until 1980, with one exception, were army officers who manipulated the elections held. In 1932, La Matanza began - "the massacre," which brought an end to the physical and cultural existence of the indigenous peoples of El Salvador. The unrest was triggered by the fall in coffee prices caused by the global economic crisis.

The 100-hour football war in July 1969 is better known internationally. It was triggered by the forced remigration of hundreds of thousands of Salvadorans who had occupied undeveloped Honduran land as a result of the Honduran land reform since 1966. Since around 1972, several progressive guerrilla groups have been operating, and the paramilitary Organización Democrática Nacionalista fought them. At this time, Catholic liberation theology gained importance, driven forward by local Jesuits and Archbishop Óscar Romero as a leading figure. He was canonized in 2018, although the Roman Curia had had great difficulty with the positions he represented during his lifetime.

In the first few years after the Peace of Chapultepec in 1992, there was a small amount of land reform and improved living conditions for the general public. Since the end of the civil war, the political landscape had developed from an authoritarian system to a democratic state. However, the right-wing conservative ARENA party, which practiced nepotism, was mostly in power. This ended with the election of the radical market liberal Nayib Bukele, who converted to Islam and became internationally known when he made Bitcoin legal tender. The "hard hand" in combating gang crime is also attracting attention. The measures that mock any rule of law have made the streets safer, but the neoliberal "economic reforms" initiated in parallel ensured that in 2024, in absolute terms, twice as many Salvadorans will live below the poverty line than when Bukele took power in 2019. Even then, the poverty rate was 48%.

 

Regions

El Salvador, about the size of Hesse and barely larger than Lower Austria, is a beautiful country with friendly people, a stunning palm-lined coastline, huge volcanic craters and cool waterfalls in green forests. The coastal region on the Pacific is spoiled by waves and dotted with beaches that look like dark sand and steep cliffs. Water birds and fish as well as sea turtles are plentiful. The higher regions are mostly cooler and characterized by forests.

 

Cities

1 San Salvador - capital.
2 Ahuachapán in the west.
3 Puerto de la Libertad, beach destination on the Pacific.
4 San Miguel the largest city in the east. Known for its carnival in November.
5 Santa Tekla
6 Sonsonate
7 Suchitoto , the "cultural capital" and former heartland of the revolution. Today one of the most important centers of tourism in El Salvador. Spanish colonial architecture and the old cobblestone streets attract many visitors. Lake Suchitlán is the largest dammed body of water in the country and is located nearby.
8 Zacatecoluca

 

Other destinations

Mayan ruins

Joya de Cerén .
Tazumal

 

Prehistoric settlements

Gruta del Espiritu Santo (Cueva del Espíritu Santo) infoedit near Corinto.

 

Nature reserves

El Boquerón National Park (Parque nacional El Boquerón, ​Crater del Volcán de San Salvador; ascent from Álvarez, a village 20 km from the center of San Salvador). Information center with marked hiking trail to the two craters.
El Impossible National Park (Parque nacional El Imposible). The name "impossible" comes from a gorge here through which the coffee harvest had to be carried under the most difficult conditions.
The Ruta de las Flores connects nearby, picturesque mountain villages.
In the mountains at the border triangle with Guatemala and Honduras is the Trifinio Fraternidad Biosphere Reserve, the Salvadoran part of which includes the Montecristo National Park (Montecristo Trifinio NP in Honduras). On the flanks of the three peaks over 2000 meters high, temperatures are pleasant at 6-18 °C. The information center with campsite opens from 7:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. You can get there via Metapán on National Road 12.
Cerro Verde National Park (Parque nacional Los Volcanes; 1 hour by bus from Sta. Ana). Here are the volcanoes Cerro Verde, Izalco and Santa Ana. Throughout history, the Izalco was called the "lighthouse of the Pacific" because it served as a guide at night for ships sailing along the Salvadoran coast during 196 years of uninterrupted activity. The Cerro Verde has long been extinct, with cloud forest on its slopes. Since the last eruption of Santa Ana in 2005, unaccompanied visits have been prohibited. The cloud forests are home to a number of tropical bird species, including hummingbirds. The latter are numerous in the area around the visitor center in the middle of the park. It gets busy on the last weekend in September, when the Festival del Jocote Corona takes place. Food made from the red Mombin plum is served. Open: 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Price: Foreigners' price US$6, payable at the Caseta de Colecturía below the Cerro Verde peak.

There are three tourist zones:
Cerro Verde sector, easily accessible via a paved road from the town of Izalco. There is a tourist center, hiking trails, an orchidarium, viewpoints, a cafeteria, local guides and a mountain hotel (Casa 1800 at the summit, luxurious) as well as three campsites. From here, hikes to the other volcanoes are organized with the accompaniment of the tourist police (POLITUR) (which, due to the poor security situation, served primarily to protect against attacks until the end of 2022).
The San Blas sector can be reached by car via a 200-meter-long gravel bypass road, 11 kilometers after the turnoff to Cerro Verde. Here, too, there is a park ranger station, cafeteria, simple huts, including igloo-shaped ones, for overnight stays. Hiking trails start from here.
Los Andes sector, 6.5 km along a dirt road (four-wheel drive required) from the country road to Cerro Verde (8.4 kilometers after it begins in the village), is the quietest sector with a park ranger station, a visitor center. A biological station provides information. There are well-equipped camping and picnic areas, orchidarium, an eco-lodge for "deck camping" and the hiking trail to the Santa Ana crater with its lake. To hike the other two peaks (challenging) you need 4+ hours there and back. Guides wait at the parking lot in the morning.

Coatepeque Caldera (Lago de Coatepeque; 25 km from Sta. Anan to El Poevnir. First on the CA-1 to El Congo, then turn off). At an altitude of 745 m, 18 km south of Santa Ana. The "Coatepeque" means "mountain of snakes" in the Nahuatl language. It is up to 115 m deep and measures 25.3 km². At the southern end of the lake is the island of Teopan (= Isla del Cerro) with some Mayan ruins. The development of a tourist infrastructure has only just begun. A few hotels are mainly on the north and northeast shore. For swimming, you can get into the water via piers. Private excursion boats also sail from the village of El Poevnir.
San Marcelino volcano (from Izalco or San Isidro (9 km), possibly with a guided tour). Loose tree population, a good 1200 meters high, about 500 towering over the surrounding landscape. No longer part of the national park, but is accessible.
If you take the southern route from San Isisdrio you come to Cueva El Escorpión ("Scorpion Cave"), a large cavern on the hillside.

 

Waterfalls

Cascada de Tamanique, La Libertad
Cascadas Los Tercios, Suchitoto
Cascada La Golondrinera, Sonsonate
Salto San Antonio

 

Museums in the countryside

Revolution Museum (Museo de la Revolución Salvadoreña; in Perquín, a mountain village near the Honduran border). Shows the activities of the FMLN liberation movement. Open: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Revolutionary Museum (Museo de la Revolución Héroes de La Sabana), Oyushtada.

 

Things to do

Events
Various places hold a harvest festival, the Festival de Maíz, every year. The largest and most famous is in 13 Chalatenango.

Every August 31st, the Festival de las Bolas de Fuego is celebrated in 14 Nejapa, where burning fabric balls dipped in kerosene are thrown between two groups on the street. This commemorates the volcanic eruption of 1658.

Water sports
There are usually no lifeguards or rescue boats. Underwater currents near the coast often lead to accidents.

The coastal strip near El Tunco (with three good surfing spots), Playa San Blas and Playa San Diego is marketed as Surf City. There are many hostels for backpackers, but also hotels for slightly higher demands. At weekends, many locals come from the city to relax in El Tunco. In the hinterland is the Walter Thilo Deininger Nature Park, where five circular trails provide information about nature and lead to caves. El Tunco is a small town on the Pacific coast about an hour's drive from San Salvador and about 15 minutes' drive from El Puerto de La Libertad. The town is well developed for tourism, safe with its own police station and offers an exciting nightlife with bars and restaurants right by the sea and in the lively, bright streets. From Latino to house in the various bars to live jazz and rock concerts in the bar of the Hotel La Guitarra, there is something for everyone.

Other seaside resorts on the Pacific are Amatecampo, Playa El Pimental and El Zapote, located on a headland

Las Flores - popular with surfers.

If you are looking for a calmer sea and sandy beaches, you are better off on the islands in the Gulf of Fonseca, which are not always easy to reach. Boats mainly leave from La Unión at the Muelle Municipal. The tax-free private city of Bitcoin City is also to be built near this town. There is also El Zonte (Bitcoin Beach).

Isla Conchagüita . 8.5 km² of volcanic origin. Nature reserve. There are two resorts with holiday apartments.
Meanguera del Golfo (neighboring island of Conchagüita. Boats from La Uníon, approx. 1 hour). A village with accommodation and a boat dock is in the southeast of the island. In the middle of the entrance to the Gulf of Fonseca there is also a border police station. In the south, the sandy beach of El Mahahual is only a 500m walk away. Right up in the north is Playa Peladero. On the east coast are El Zambullido (village) and the sandy beach of Las Cuevitas.
Isla Zacatillo (9 kilometers southeast of Pueto La Uníon). The 4 km² Zacatillo was a prison island in the past. A well-known beach is Playa de Caguamo.
The boats from La Unión dock at Playa Playona after a stop in the village of Playa La Pesa (two shops and the Hotel Los Coquitos). Here is the simple Hostal Crustaceo del Pacifico, Tel. +50379098537 with a restaurant.
Isla Martín Pérez (entry only with the permission of the military commander in El Unión). The island's beaches were considered the most beautiful in the Gulf. However, for some time now, this has been a protected area (protección verde) for pelicans, raccoons, iguanas and armadillos. The population has been relocated.

 

History

Pre-Columbian to Early Independence

El Salvador's civilization dates back to pre-Columbian times, around 1500 BC, according to evidence provided by the ancient structures of Tazumal in Chalchuapa.

The Spanish admiral Andrés Niño led an expedition to Central America and landed on Meanguera Island, located in the Gulf of Fonseca, on May 31, 1522. This was the first Salvadoran territory visited by the Spanish. In June 1524, the Spanish captain Pedro de Alvarado began a predatory war against the native tribes of Cuzcatlán. During 17 days of bloody battles many natives and Spaniards died. Pedro de Alvarado was defeated and, with an injury to his left hip, abandoned the fight and fled to Guatemala, appointing his brother, Gonzalo de Alvarado, to continue the conquest of Cuzcatlán. Later, his cousin Diego de Alvarado established the Villa de San Salvador in April 1525. King Charles I of Spain (who also ruled in what is now Germany as Karl V) granted San Salvador the title of City in the year 1546. During the next few years,

Towards the end of 1810, the criollos (descendants of Europeans born in the Spanish colonies), who had long been excluded from more real power in the colonies, wanted to overthrow the small elite of the peninsulares (people born on the peninsula) and the colonial administration. The moment to fight for independence from Spain came in the early morning of November 5, 1811, when the Salvadoran priest, José Matías Delgado, rang the bells of the La Merced Church in San Salvador, calling for insurrection. As with most former Spanish colonies, independence was made more likely by the fact that Spain was occupied by Napoleonic troops and the colonial administration was unsure whether they should be loyal to the previous king or the new king chosen by Napoleon. After much infighting and setbacks that made independence seem unlikely, the Acta de Independencia (Central American Act of Independence) was signed in Guatemala on September 15, 1821. Like the other four Central American states that gained independence that day,

While independence brought more political participation (at least in theory) to the (white) landed elites and the urban middle class, the indigenous population did not benefit at all and in fact continued to be further disenfranchised and dispossessed. By 1900, over 90% of the land was held by just 0.01% of the population, a situation that would prove to threaten the country's political stability for much of the time to come.

 

20th and 21st centuries

The fraudulent elections of January 1932 were the trigger for the social upheaval. Several polling stations were suspended in towns where the Communist Party had a strong presence. A new insurrection began. After rebel forces carried out two unsuccessful assaults on the Cavalry Barracks, the government ordered martial law. Strict press censorship was implemented. In the following days, thousands of farmers and workers, carrying machetes and some "Mauser" rifles, attacked police stations, municipal offices, telegraph stations, warehouses and the properties of wealthy landowners. This insurrection was crushed. On January 31, Manuel Antonio Castañeda sentenced Farabundo Martí to death. He was shot dead on February 1, 1932. Another sad consequence of the uprising and its suppression was "la Matanza" (the Matanza), a mass massacre of indigenous people (many of them sympathizers of Martí but many of them not) simply for being indigenous, looking indigenous, wearing clothes considered indigenous, or speaking indigenous languages. While not all indigenous people were actually killed, it dealt a major blow to indigenous culture and even today less than 1% of Salvadorans self-identify as indigenous, the lowest number in all of Central America. While this is partly due to fear of being discriminated against or stereotyped by identifying as indigenous, there are some people of indigenous descent who have lost all ties to the culture of their ancestors and do not self-identify as indigenous because of this. a mass killing of indigenous people (many of them sympathizers of Martí but many of them not) simply for being indigenous, looking indigenous, wearing clothes considered indigenous, or speaking indigenous languages. While not all indigenous people were actually killed, it dealt a huge blow to indigenous culture and even today less than 1% of Salvadorans self-identify as indigenous, the lowest number in all of Central America. While this is partly due to fear of being discriminated against or stereotyped for identifying as indigenous, there are some people of indigenous descent who have lost all ties to the culture of their ancestors and do not self-identify as indigenous because of this. There was a mass killing of indigenous people (many of them sympathetic to Martí but many of them not) simply for being indigenous, looking indigenous, wearing clothes considered indigenous, or speaking indigenous languages. While not all indigenous people were actually killed, it dealt a huge blow to indigenous culture and even today less than 1% of Salvadorans self-identify as indigenous, the lowest number in all of Central America. While this is partly due to the fear of being discriminated against or stereotyped by identifying as indigenous, there are some people of indigenous descent who have lost all ties to the culture of their ancestors and do not self-identify as indigenous so they wear clothing that is considered indigenous or speak indigenous languages. While not all indigenous people were actually killed, it dealt a huge blow to indigenous culture and even today less than 1% of Salvadorans self-identify as indigenous, the lowest number in all of Central America. While this is partly due to the fear of being discriminated against or stereotyped by identifying as indigenous, there are some people of indigenous descent who have lost all ties to the culture of their ancestors and do not self-identify as indigenous so they wear clothing that is considered indigenous or speak indigenous languages. While not all indigenous people were actually killed, it dealt a huge blow to indigenous culture and even today less than 1% of Salvadorans self-identify as indigenous, the lowest number in all of Central America. While this is partly due to fear of being discriminated against or stereotyped when identifying as indigenous, there are some people of indigenous descent who have lost all ties to the culture of their ancestors and do not self-identify as indigenous because of that.

Over the next few decades, many coups followed, including the one that overthrew General Maximiliano Hernández Martínez.

Relations with Honduras deteriorated in the late 1960s. There was a border clash in 1967, and a so-called four-day football war, as it was called by the international media, broke out in July 1969 after a FIFA World Cup qualifying match between the two countries. The war ended with a ceasefire driven by pressure from the United States and the Organization of American States. Salvadoran forces that had invaded Honduras were withdrawn. They were just a few kilometers from Tegucigalpa, the capital of Honduras.

An organized leftist guerrilla movement emerged in 1974 and 1975, amidst increasing political violence. In 1980, three of the leftist organizations joined together to coordinate a struggle against the government. This movement was called FMLN (Frente Farabundo Martí para la Liberación Nacional. English: Farabundo Martí National Liberation Front). In March of the same year, Monsignor Oscar Arnulfo Romero, the archbishop of San Salvador, was assassinated while celebrating mass. It is widely believed that the order for his execution came from Major Roberto D'Abuisson, the founder and leader of ARENA, a right-wing party. D'Abuisson is best known for his alleged involvement in death squad killings. He died of cancer in 1992. On January 16, 1992, the government of El Salvador and the FMLN signed the Chapultepec Peace Accords. Mexico, putting an end to one of the most painful chapters in El Salvador's history. The 12-year armed conflict claimed the lives of more than 75,000 people and caused the exodus of hundreds of thousands more who fled to the United States, Canada and other countries to escape the violence.

The FMLN has become a legal political party and won between 30 and 40% of the vote in elections from 1997 to 2015, but won less than a quarter of the vote in 2018. Aside from economic problems, a big problem the country still faces is also something of a legacy of the war, as some people who left El Salvador ended up in US prisons and, upon release, were deported to El Salvador bringing with them the US-style gang culture. As many of these people were very young when they left El Salvador, more or less their only source of identity was the gang culture, so combating these extremely violent groups has proven to be extremely difficult.

Today, El Salvador is stable and with a growing economy, leaving its painful history behind.

 

Climate

Tropical; rainy season (May to October); dry season (November to April); tropical on the coast; temperate in the highlands.

As this is a tropical country, the temperature does not depend much on the season, but on the altitude and time of day. If you have never been to the tropics and want to capture a sunrise or sunset, be very quick, as the sun sets and rises much faster than in temperate or even polar areas.

 

Language

Apart from the official language, Spanish, little Nahuatl is spoken. English is often spoken in hotels. Being able to speak Spanish is a great advantage, because if you speak English you are immediately mistaken for an American, and they are not popular everywhere.

 

Getting here

Citizens from Germany, Austria and Switzerland do not need a visa or tourist card to enter the country. They can benefit from the 4-country zone (CA-4): the entry permit is also valid for a 90-day stay in Honduras, Nicaragua and Guatemala. On arrival, a tourist card (tarjeta migratoria) costs US$ 12. However, this is not required for all visa-exempt nationals (not Schengen-EU in 2023) and is generally free of charge for children and young people. Nor if you spend less than 48 hours in transit.

Children who are only travelling with one parent need the other parent's certified permission in Spanish.

When entering directly from countries with a risk of yellow fever (South America!), you need the international vaccination certificate.

Airplane
The only international airport is the Aeropuerto Internacional "Monseñor Óscar Arnulfo Romero" (= El Salvador International Airport, formerly Comalapa International Airport) in San Salvador. Since 2014 it has been named after Óscar Romero, the Archbishop of San Salvador who was murdered in 1980.

In 2024, you can only fly directly from Europe from Madrid. Otherwise you have to change in Mexico or the USA. For the latter, you need a biometric passport as well as a “visa waiver” and ESTA.

Train
As in all of Central America, there is no rail service. It is not yet clear whether and when the Acajutla – Sitio del Niño route, which was decided to reopen in 2022, will take place.

Bus
Entry into San Salvador by bus with the Tica Bus company is convenient and safe. There are also other companies such as Cristobal Colón. Entry can be made from Guatemala City or Nicaragua. From the terminal in the capital, taxis from Tica Bus Terminal drive to your destination at affordable prices (1 hour around $30). There are air-conditioned minibuses that travel a fixed route for $1.50 and are monitored by video cameras. These are a very cheap alternative to taxis, which are considered safe.

Entry and exit is extremely easy. At Cristobal Colón, the information on a list is compared with the passport (without a stamp).

Car/motorcycle/bicycle
The Pan-American Highway runs through El Salvador and is a good way to enter by car. The border crossing with Guatemala is in Guevara/San Cristobal.

Ship
Ruta del Golfo operates a 28-seat passenger ferry between Potosí (Nicaragua) and La Unión in El Salvador. The office there is 17 Avenida Norte #3, Santa Tecla, La Libertad (Tel. +503 2525-6464). This allows you to bypass Honduras and two border crossings. Departures are at least once a week.

For sports sailors there are marinas in Bahia del Sol and Isla Meanguera in the Gulf of Fonseca. Barrilas can no longer be used for international arrivals. The ports of Acajutla and Puerto La Unión are for commercial use and are not suitable for yachts.

 

Transport around the region

To avoid criminal taxi drivers, use hotel taxis or radio taxis ordered by phone. Journeys should only be made in licensed taxis (the first character of the license plate is an "A") or buses with their own security personnel or a surveillance camera.

Private bus companies are considered safer (in terms of crime, not vehicle quality) than the state-run ones.

Bicycle tours are not recommended.

Driving yourself
Rental cars are a good way to get from A to B. You can usually get one from the age of 21, provided you have had your driving license for a year. The European card driving license is valid, but it is still advisable to carry the international one.

It is important to remember to adapt to the flow of traffic and not to be surprised if you are overtaken on the right, for example. The roads are quite good, but you should watch out for potholes and animals on the road. In contrast to neighboring countries, corruption in the police force in El Salvador is uncommon.

The traffic signs are based on the American model, but with Spanish lettering, which is used uniformly for the Sistema de la Integración Centroamericana in Costa Rica, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Panama and El Salvador.

In the event of an accident involving personal injury, the driver may be detained for up to 72 hours and have his documents and vehicle confiscated.

 

Buy

The Yanqui dollar (US$) has been the country's currency since 2001.

In July 2021, Bitcoin also became legal tender, with the use of the government-controlled app Chivos being declared the standard for payment (its 5 million user data was hacked online in April 2024). Acceptance in everyday life remains low, although shops must in principle have a corresponding reader available.

Particular caution should be exercised when withdrawing money from banks or ATMs. Only do this inside secure buildings. Most machines have a withdrawal limit of US$ 400 (2023). Copying credit card data is also a common occurrence.

The price level is higher than in Guatemala and Honduras, but the quality is not.

Fruit and vegetables: cheapest on the side of the road, at the market or from traveling traders.

Fish: on the beach directly from the boat when the fishermen return; from traveling traders or at the "Confederacion de los Pescadores", better not at the market as it is often not refrigerated.
Puerto de La Libertad: Lots of shopping opportunities and places of interest with a fish market on the pier, a collection of countless market stalls and shops (clothes, fruit, vegetables, lentils, beans, eggs, flour, pharmacy, supermarket etc.) and an American supermarket, ice cream parlor nearby
You should not buy jewelry or similar that is being offered by children. They should actually be going to school instead of having to sell things.

 

Eat

As everywhere in Central America, corn is the staple food. The dishes are similar to those of the neighboring countries Guatemala and Nicaragua.

A typical dish in El Salvador is pupusas: round corn flatbreads filled with cheese, beans, chicken, shrimp, loroco (a native flower similar to asparagus), ayote (a type of pumpkin), spinach, etc. They are available on many corners and are eaten with sauerkraut and carrots. Three pieces - the usual portion size - for just over a dollar will already make you feel full. In tourist regions, the flatbreads are significantly more expensive, at up to $2.50 for three pieces. They taste good everywhere.

You can have a hearty breakfast in restaurants on every corner. We recommend the typical local first meal of the day with fried or scrambled eggs, frijoles (mashed beans), rice, avocado and fried bananas.

In touristy places like El Tunco you can get pretty much anything your stomach desires, from sushi (which you can eat there without worrying about stomach problems), pizza, pasta, waffles, delicious fresh fish to falafel.

In San Rafael Obrajuelo the Festival del Cerdo takes place on the Sunday closest to the traditional name day (October 24th) of this archangel. Vegetarians and Muslims should avoid the streets of the town on this day. The old town is also worth a visit during the rest of the year.

 

Drinks

There are many places to go out in San Salvador, as the range of culturally interesting activities is surprisingly large. However, some areas should be avoided, especially at night. The best way to get around is by taxi and ask at your hotel about places that you can visit without any worries as a tourist.

 

Hotels

Luxurious resorts can be found on the beaches that cater to American surfers.

As in neighboring countries, motels are primarily used for discreet trysts, so hourly rentals are not unusual. In some establishments, the gentleman does not have to bring his lady with him.

 

Holidays

Semana Santa, Holy Week, is celebrated extensively, as everywhere in Latin America. This is when the beaches of the Pacific coast are at their peak for locals. New Year's Eve is celebrated vigorously in El Salvador. The music starts in the middle of the night and blares until the early hours when it gets light again. It is tradition to welcome the New Year with the sunrise. Many celebrations last until midday on January 1st or later.

 

Safety

Tourist Police (POLITUR): 911 or (503) 2511-8300

The possession of firearms and other weapons is widespread. There is a risk of violent crime: theft, robbery, rape, etc. The "policy of the hard hand" (Manos Duras), which began in 2014 and has been tightened since mid-2022, has led to the arrest of tens of thousands of gang members (and many innocent people). There are no prevention and reintegration measures, instead the focus is on escalating violence and funding weapons and security forces. In the large Terrorism Confinement Center prison, which is designed to hold 100,000 prisoners, there are 100 m² cells for (as planned) the same number of inmates. Until the beginning of 2022, Quetzaltepeque, Mejicanos, Ilopango, Soyapango and the districts of San Salvador were considered particularly dangerous. Two years later, it is reported that the large cities are "as safe as the USA" - which, at least from a European perspective, is not necessarily a recommendation. Shooting is often done during robberies. The murder rate from 2001 to 2020 fluctuated around 70 per 100,000 inhabitants, more than twice as high as in the rest of Central America, which is also a serious crime-ridden area. For comparison, the value for the EU is below 1!

One can only speculate whether the improved security situation will survive the end of the state of emergency or Bukele's presidency, as it can be assumed that the former conservative, corrupt cliques will then again exploit the state for their own benefit, while the underlying social problems linked to poverty are not addressed.

 

Health

The hygiene standards are considerably lower than in the western world. Medical care is adequate in terms of medical specialists and medication, i.e. better than in neighboring countries. Hospitals usually require an advance payment before treatment.

It is recommended not to drink tap water and to brush your teeth with bottled water. Vegetables and fruit should be peeled and/or cooked. Hands should be washed frequently, especially before meals. When swimming in the sea near rivers, make sure not to swallow any water.

Good mosquito protection is recommended, especially during the day, as various diseases are transmitted by the stinging insects. It is best to inquire about symptoms and treatments at the Tropical Institute before traveling.

The country, like all of Central America, is in an earthquake zone. In the east near San Miguel is the imposing Chaparrastique volcano: the last eruption occurred in November 2022. The highest volcano in the west near Santa Ana, at 2381m, is Ilamatepec in Cerro Verde National Park.

What was said about poisonous snakes in Guatemala also applies here.

 

Climate and travel time

The climate is tropical with a dry season from November to April and a rainy season from May/June to October. During the rainy season, heavy rain can lead to flooding within a short period of time. Hurricanes occur from June to November, but especially between mid-August and mid-October. As a result of Hurricane Mitch in 1998, large parts of the country were severely damaged by floods and landslides.

The year-round warm temperatures of around 30°C (on the plains) and high humidity mean that bathing is possible at any time. The sea has temperatures between 25°C and 28°C.

At the higher elevations of the volcanoes, it cools down to 6–8°C at night, and during the day it is 16–24°C.

The weather service website provides current weather forecasts, with subpages for earthquake, tsunami and volcano warnings. The earthquakes in January and February 2001 caused severe damage.

 

Rules and respect

The people in El Salvador are relatively conservative and, despite the high temperatures, usually wear long trousers (also to protect themselves from mosquitoes). Women rarely wear clothing that shows their legs and, if they do, it usually reaches down to their knees. In general, the locals are somewhat reserved and polite. Loud behavior and boasting about wealth is not appropriate.

The country has one of the strictest abortion bans in the world.

 

Post and telecommunications

Small post offices handle mail reliably. Internet and telephony are common, but in smaller towns with few accommodations there is often no WiFi.

As in neighboring countries, Claro and Tigo are the two largest mobile phone providers. If you need data, Claro is the better choice. Both have good 4G coverage in the cities and along the country roads. In 2024, coverage will remain poor outside of the city. There are also Digizell and Movistar. The use of the messenger Telegram has been blocked by Salvadoran ISPs since June 2024.

 

Practical information

Foreign representations
See also: Consulates in San Salvador

Although Switzerland and Austria have consular representation, their offices have very limited powers. Passport matters for Swiss and Liechtenstein citizens are handled in San José (Costa Rica). For Austrians, Mexico City is the place of responsibility.