Honduras is the second largest country in Central America,
bordering Guatemala to the northwest, El Salvador to the west
and Nicaragua to the southeast. Honduras has a long coastline on
the Caribbean side and a small access to the Pacific, the Gulf
of Fonseca. Around a third of the country is jungle.
Honduras is the proverbial banana republic. Since the Banana
Wars of 1903, 1907, 1911, 1912, 1919, 1924 and 1925, American
economic interests have led to interventions by the USA in favor
of their economic interests - primarily for the United Fruit
Company ("Chiquita") and Dole. Since the 1950s, any attempt by
the exploited masses to improve their situation has been cruelly
suppressed by a dirty, American-financed war. The 100-hour
football war in July 1969 is better known internationally. It
was triggered by the forced remigration of hundreds of thousands
of Salvadorans who had occupied undeveloped Honduran land as a
result of land reform since 1966. Unrest broke out around three
qualifying matches for the 1970 World Cup, which led to war. In
the 1980s, as part of the Reagan Doctrine, the border area with
Nicaragua became the base of the so-called Contras, who were
supposed to bring about a coup in the neighboring country. The
USA's current claim to intervene in the country is derived from
the investment protection agreement of 2001. The population has
tripled in the forty years from 1980 to 2020. Most of them are
mestizos, seven percent are Indians and two percent are Negroid.
The moderately reformist President Manuel Zelaya, often
referred to as a "farmer" but actually a large landowner, was
ousted from office in 2009 and replaced by an even more
market-capitalist puppet of the military. At that time, laws
were passed on the so-called "private cities" (ZEDE). The model
is based on the ideology of economic liberalism in a largely
unbridled form. "Investors" are given legislative power in these
cities, and the state renounces its sovereignty there in return
for the jobs created. The right-wing libertarian political
activist Peter Thiel ("PayPal") is the driving force behind the
society behind Próspera (Roatan). The equally corrupt,
authoritarian Juan Orlando Hernández was in office from 2013 to
22. The establishment of an additional paramilitary police force
did little to improve the security situation. He was succeeded
by Xiomara Castro as the first woman to hold the presidency. She
was seen as a beacon of hope. Their balance sheet remained poor
until 2024, with nepotism the norm.
The population is concentrated in the highlands of the northwestern
part of the country, the area around Tegucigalpa and the Pacific south.
Honduras is divided into eighteen administrative districts
(departments) in three regions. These are:
Caribbean coast
(Honduras)
The Caribbean coast with beaches, port cities and a large
jungle region, including the Rio Plátano biosphere reserve
Atlántida
· Colón · Cortés · Gracias a Dios · Islas de la Bahía
Highlands
The capital, Begre, Mayan ruins and Spanish colonial mountain towns
Comayagua · Copán · El Paraíso · Francisco Morazán · Intibucá · La Paz ·
Lempira · Ocotepeque · Olancho · Santa Barbara · Yoro
Pacific
coast
Small region with ports.
Choluteca · Valle
1 Comayagua – Founded on December 8, 1537 by the conqueror Alonso de
Cáceres, Comayagua is a major tourist attraction due to its historical
significance. It was the seat of the colonial administration until the
mid-18th century.
2 La Ceiba – It is the fourth largest city in
Honduras and has a population of around 250,000. The city has good
hotels, ATMs and internet cafes. Many people who visit La Ceiba use the
city as a base to visit the Pico Bonito National Park, the Cuero and
Salado Wildlife Refuge or the beaches and ethnic Garífuna villages
nearby. Or people simply stop for a night on their way to the Bay
Islands or the Cayos Cochinos (Hog Islands).
3 San Pedro Sula –
Focused on industry, the city is largely a modern city (as opposed to
the more picturesque Comayagua, Tegucigalpa, etc.). It is a good base
for entering the country and visiting other parts, and offers modern
amenities.
4 Tegucigalpa – Capital and the country's largest city
with over a million inhabitants.
5 Omoa – The city is located on a
narrow bay of the same name near the largest bastion in Central America,
the San Fernando de Omoa fortress. The fortress was built in 1759 and
used by the Spanish to ward off pirates. Today, robber barons sit at the
ticket office and charge foreigners 3½ times the entrance fee.
6 Tela
– a popular Caribbean beach resort. An observation deck offers an
unforgettable view over Tela Bay.
7 Trujillo – This is where Columbus
first landed on the American mainland. The Santa Bárbara fortress dates
from colonial times.
Islas de la Bahía . Útila, Roatán and Guanaja. Three islands on the
Caribbean side that are an absolute must for snorkeling and/or diving.
The spoken language here is English.
Yojoa (lago de Yojoa) . The
largest lake in Honduras, which is unfortunately heavily polluted today.
There are nature reserves with untouched rainforest nearby.
These are
the Cerro Azul Meámbar National Park and, to the south, the two forest
reserves (Reserva de Vida Silvestre) of Mixcure and Montaña Verde. From
Tegucigalpa, drive 160 km on the CA-5 to Pito Solo.
Copán . One of the most impressive ruins from the Mayan period,
particularly known for its well-preserved sculptures. Foreigners pay 4-5
times the entrance fee. infoedit
6km from Copán is the Mayan city of
Rastrojón
another Mayan settlement was La Castellona or La Canteada
(Rio Amarillo)
11km from the city of La Entrada is El Puente, another
Mayan city.
A visit can easily be combined with the nearby ruined
city of Quiriguá in Guatemala.
Cuevas de Talgua Cuevas de Talgua,
near Catacamas. A short section of the stalactite cave in which
skeletons of early inhabitants have been found is accessible with a
guide, the way out of the village is arduous. Foreigners pay 3½ times
the entrance fee.
El Curruste in San Pedro Sula is an archaeological
site that is associated with the Payas culture.
Los Naranjos
Tenampúa is a pre-Columbian settlement of the Lenca.
Yarumela (El
Chircal) prehistoric settlement. The best finds are in the Comayagua
Museum.
Nature reserves charge an entrance fee. Some are run by foundations.
Foreigners are charged several times the price for locals.
Rio
Plátano Biosphere Reserve (Reserva de la biosfera de Río Plátano) .
covers an area of tropical rainforest with its diverse flora and
fauna. In its mountainous landscape, over 2000 Indians have preserved
their traditional way of life.
Pico Bonito National Park (Parque
nacional Pico Bonito) . Due to years of poaching, there are hardly any
large animals left. Anyone who wants to deal with plants, geckos,
insects or similar will find what they are looking for.
The
landscape is beautiful along the Rio Cangrejal between the Pico Bonito
and Nombre de Dios national parks.
Jungle River Lodge. Tel.:
+50495421383. Price: average.
Omega Tours and Lodge (9.5km del Puente
Saopin en la Calle del Rio Cangrejal). Tel.: +50496310295. Under German
management. Price: high.
Tigra National Park (Parque Nacional La
Tigra; 25km north of Tegucigalpa). Cloud and fog forest around a
mountain peak at 2200+ meters. 240 km² in size with eight designated
hiking trails totaling 23 kilometers long. There are two visitor
centers. Open: 6 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Cusuco National Park (Parque nacional
Cusuco; between San Pedro Sula (30 km) and the border with Guatemala).
Mountain range of the Sierra del Merendón, a cloud and fog forest region
at an altitude of 1500–2450 meters. The average annual temperature is a
pleasant 19°C. In addition to colorful birds, you can see tree ferns
that grow up to twenty meters high.
Jeannette Kawas National Park
(Parque nacional Jeanette Kawas, initially Punta Sal National Park;
accessible via Tela). 781 km². Established in 1995 to protect the
coastal wetland on the north coast from the expansion of palm oil
plantations. Renamed in memory of a murdered environmental activist.
Capiro Calentura National Park (Parque nacional Capiro y Calentura;
accessible from Trujillo). 81 km² of tropical rainforest on the north
coast. The mantled howler monkey (Alouatta palliata) is protected, among
other things. Tours with bilingual guides by arrangement. Price:
Entrance tickets from FUCAGUA in the Biblioteca Municipal at the central
park in Trujillo.
In the tourist areas by the sea, equipment for various water sports
is rented out. The prices are then at western levels.
The second
largest reef in the world, the UNESCO World Heritage Belize Barrier
Reef, stretches from Yucatan to Utíla (Utila), which is why it is a
popular destination for divers. There are also diving schools here. You
can get there by ferry or with CM propeller planes to the airport (IATA:
UII), also directly from Guatemala City.
Organized white water
trips (“rafting”) take place on the Rio Cangrejal.
Almost all Europeans can stay in the CA-4 area, including Guatemala,
Nicaragua and El Salvador, for 90 days at a time without a visa.
Nevertheless, you should ask for an entry stamp when travelling by land
to be on the safe side. A detour to Costa Rica of at least 72 hours
interrupts the deadline. From May 2024, the Prechequeo Migratorio form
only has to be filled out in advance if you are coming from Nicaragua.
Children who are only travelling with one parent need the other parent's
certified permission in Spanish.
Border controls at land borders
are fussy and time-consuming by Central American standards. The queue
can go through the hall twice and hardly moves. The locals take it with
humor to give fingerprints and photos again. Non-residents of the CA-4
area are charged a small fee for entry. If you arrive directly from
South America, a yellow fever vaccination may be required.
Customs
Free quantities are (from 18): 5 liters of alcohol; 500 grams
of tobacco or tobacco products; 2 kg of sweets. Cash amounts over US$
10,000 must be declared.
A customs form must be filled out when
entering and leaving the country. The form is available online. There is
also a paper form at land border crossings (as of March 2024).
Fresh meat and fruit, dairy products, etc. are not allowed to be
imported. Weapons and harpoons for spearfishing are also prohibited,
which are generally not permitted.
When exporting plants or
animals, you must inquire in advance about the permits that are usually
required. The export of pre-Columbian objects and corals is punishable
by law.
Drones can be flown "as a hobby" up to 400 feet high (122
m). There are restrictions around airfields and authorities. Devices
that weigh more than 250 grams must be declared. The aviation authority
provides details (legal regulation, sp.).
Airplane
Comayagua
Airport (Aeropuerto Internacional de Comayagua, IATA: XPL; 10km
southeast of Comayagua near Plamerola. 86km from Tegucigalpa on the
CA-5). Tel.: +504 2758-0700 . The airport is manageable with one
terminal. Opened in 2021 after an accident at the cramped Tegucigalpa
airfield as a replacement at an air force base built by the Americans in
1985 (Soto Cano). infoedit
San Pedro Sula (SAP) is served from Madrid
and otherwise from the same domestic American destinations as Comayagua.
Domestic flights are offered by CM and Aerolíneas Sosa. The smaller
landing sites in Honduras are often reached by propeller planes.
Train
Passenger rail traffic has been completely stopped in Honduras.
Bus
The Ticabus offers direct connections between the Central
American countries. In addition, there are now several daily bus
connections to the capital. In addition to Pullmantur, Platinum
Centroamerica (together with Cristobal Colon) and Trans Nica are
companies worth mentioning.
Car/motorcycle/bicycle
The roads
are in poor condition and renting a car (preferably an off-road vehicle)
is only advisable for experienced drivers. Only the highway between
Tegucigalpa and San Pedro Sula is in good condition. Driving at night is
not a good idea.
Maximum speed in town is 40 km/h, on country
roads 80 km/h. The blood alcohol limit is 0.7. Seat belts are
compulsory.
There are many road checks in Honduras and it is not
unusual to be stopped 2 or 3 times a day. This is purely for safety
reasons and usually happens quickly. Police officers often try to sell
you something. You should politely but firmly refuse this.
The
traffic signs are based on the American model, but with Spanish
lettering, which is used uniformly for the Sistema de la Integración
Centroamericana in Costa Rica, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Panama
and El Salvador.
An international driving license is required.
Border crossings
See also: Border crossings with Nicaragua
Guatemala
1 El Corinto border crossing (114 kilometers by road
from San Pedro Sula, because the mountain range of the Cusuco National
Park must be avoided). Open: 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.
2 El Florido border
crossing, Dept. Copán (2 buses daily from Litegua to Guatemala City on
the Guatemalan side)
3 Santa Cruz border crossing, El Paraíso,
Guatemala.
El Salvador
4 Amatillo border crossing (on the
CA-1). Open: 24 hours.
5 Pasamono border crossing. Open: 6 a.m. to 6
p.m.
6 El Poy border crossing. Open: 24 h.
At all land
borders, smugglers make themselves heard loudly immediately after
clearance.
Ship
In the "hostels", diving schools, etc. on the
Islas de la Bahía, there are regular offers to sail to other Caribbean
regions. To do this, look for notices or ask the locals.
Around
half of the 2.8 million tourists who came in 2019 were cruise
passengers. The main destination here is Roatán.
Sailing yachts
Advance notification must be made at least 48 hours before arrival. The
proper deregistration (zarpe) from the last port is checked by the
border police.
The ports of entry for sports sailors on the
Atlantic side are Roatan, Utíla, Guanaja, Puerto Cortés and La Ceiba. In
the latter, the Lagoon Marina is well guarded. On the Pacific, you can
clear in Amapala and San Lorenzo.
The fees vary in individual
ports. In order to travel between Honduran ports, you must register and
obtain permission from the harbor master. The Islas del Cisne (Swan
Islands) have a small military post, so a special permit is required.
Before leaving the country, you need another Zarpe form.
Buses
Information on timetables can be found at
horariodebuses.com. As with Deutsche Bahn, timetables are at best to be
understood as loose guidelines, especially with regard to arrival times.
A distinction must be made between direct, air-conditioned buses and
the chicken bus - these are the ones the locals use. They are called
that because animals often travel with them, not just chickens, but also
pigs, etc.
The Hedman y Alas bus line allows comfortable travel
between the capital Tegucigalpa and the tourist destinations in the
north.
Colectivo - shared taxis that travel on set routes in all
cities and larger towns and are a safer alternative to individual taxis,
as they usually only travel with four or more passengers, which means
that there are always passengers in the vehicle.
A special police
unit (Policía Turística), which was formed specifically to protect
tourists, offers tour groups an escort on cross-country trips.
Ferries
The most common ferries to the islands in the Bahía are from
La Ceiba, and to Guanaja from Trujillo. There are direct ferries between
Utíla and West End, Roatán and Guanaja and Oakridge (Roatán).
Spanish is the official language. Other languages spoken include English (on the Caribbean islands), indigenous languages and Garifuna (the language of the ethnic group of the same name, mainly of West African origin).
The Lempira exchange rate is tied to the US dollar within a range of
± 7 %. At the beginning of July 2024, there were 27.6 L per euro.
Money can be exchanged in banks, exchange offices and, in my
opinion, hotels. Not all banks accept euro cash. American dollars are
the foreign currency of choice.
Just as culturally, the food is also similar to that of its neighbors
Guatemala and Nicaragua. The use of beans, corn and plantains is
typical.
A simple meal is, for example, tortilla con frijoles,
small corn flatbreads spread with bean puree. The more luxurious version
is sprinkled with grated cheese and garnished with avocado slices.
Tamales are also made from corn: corn dough prepared with lard and
filled with pieces of meat, olives, raisins and peas, which are then
wrapped in banana leaves and cooked.
Plantains that are still
green are thinly sliced and fried as a popular snack like potato chips
(with salt and lemon juice). These "tajadas" are sold in bags at bus
stops, traffic lights and other busy places. Plantains are also cooked
when ripe and used as a soup garnish. In particular, "Tapado", a soup
made from beef and a variety of vegetables, is a Honduran Sunday dish.
A ten percent tip is only expected in better restaurants. It is
customary in the country that when you go out for a drink, the empty
bottles remain at the table until you pay.
Nightlife takes place in the Zona VIVA of the larger cities. Be careful! Women who approach you in clubs are usually prostitutes, as men are usually still expected to make the first move in Honduras.
Hotels are usually of low to medium standards or absolutely top class. This is because most hotels target locals and therefore have to be cheap. The few hotels that are aimed directly at foreigners are usually chains such as Hilton or Intercontinental. As a result, there are almost no mid-range hotels (3 and 4 stars). Rooms are usually plentiful. Advance booking is only essential at Easter and Christmas. In Tegucigalpa, it is also advisable to book in advance, as there are only a few hotels in good and safe neighborhoods that do not cost too much. There is also a hostel culture in the country. In these accommodations, an overnight stay in a dormitory will be available from around 10 euros in 2023. Mid-range double rooms cost 35-45 euros.
There are three recommended places in Honduras with Spanish language
schools where you can learn Spanish in private lessons: Copán, La Ceiba
and Trujillo.
In addition to language lessons, Copán offers one
of the most impressive Mayan sites in Central America (Copán Ruinas). La
Ceiba is a lively, if somewhat dingy, city on the Caribbean coast and
the gateway to the Islas de la Bahia (Roatan, Utila), which are
considered a diving paradise and have beautiful beaches and coral reefs
to offer. There are also small Spanish schools on the islands, although
the majority of the islands are English-speaking. Trujillo is a somewhat
sleepy provincial town in a very charming bay with a beautiful sandy
beach and nature reserve as well as a very hospitable population. Both
La Ceiba and Trujillo are home to many Garífunas or Black Caribbeans,
i.e. descendants of freed slaves of African origin.
The courses,
which are a little more expensive than in Guatemala, can be booked with
accommodation and meals in a family.
The Spanish in Honduras is a
little harder to understand (more unclear) than in Guatemala or Mexico,
but the teachers usually make an effort to speak clearly. One advantage
over Guatemala is the slightly better security situation in Honduras and
(especially in Trujillo) that there are significantly fewer tourists and
language students, which makes it easier to immerse yourself in the
Spanish-speaking environment.
The carnival in La Ceiba is celebrated with particular lavishness.
Police checks are frequent, and ID should always be carried.
Due to the history of unbridled exploitation, three quarters of the
population live below the poverty line, which in 2024 will be US$ 6.85
per day. If you take US$ 5.50 as a benchmark, more than half of the
population is still poor. Compulsory schooling is only for five grades.
In the cities, more than eleven percent of the population is illiterate,
and among the Indians in rural areas, the figure is up to fifty percent.
Because there is no social security outside of the civil service,
similar to a citizen's allowance, and no state-run, free education, many
unemployed people are forced to engage in criminal activity to earn a
living. The armed private security apparatus built up by the opposing
side leads to an endlessly escalating spiral of violence, which
particularly affects tourists as supposedly easy and rich targets.
As a result, Honduras has a very bad reputation when it comes to
security in the country. Contrary to the official travel
recommendations, which always assume the worst case scenario, Honduras
is a relatively safe country to travel to during the day. However, you
should not travel through the country carelessly. Hotels, shopping
centers, banks, nightlife districts and city centers in general are very
well guarded by the Policia Nacional and are therefore relatively safe.
Of course, pickpocketing does occasionally occur, as in every country in
the world. You should be particularly careful with your valuables in
nightclubs with lots of people (e.g. keep money in your front pocket).
As in any larger city, it is important to avoid unsafe city districts
(especially in Tegucigalpa, San Pedro Sula and La Ceiba), especially
after dark. In Tegucigalpa, almost all bus stations are in the
relatively unsafe district of Comayaguela. Here it is important not to
be at the bus station more than 15 minutes early for the early
departures (the first buses leave at 5:30 a.m.), as it only opens then.
Contrary to general fears, until 2022 the criminal youth gangs
(Maras) only occurred in certain, mostly very poor districts of
Tegucigalpa, San Pedro Sula and La Ceiba. If you are attacked, you
should under no circumstances resist and give the perpetrator what he
wants. Do not expect anyone to intervene to help if they see an attack.
The willingness of the very small, criminal minority to use violence is
high, because they belong to the part of the population that actually
has nothing to lose. In the 2010s, San Pedro Sula, especially the Rivera
Hernández district, was the "world capital of murders," but in recent
years it has been "overtaken" by Mexican cities. In 2021 there were
"only" 41.2 murders per 100,000 inhabitants. For comparison: in 2023
there were 0.8 in Germany.
In short: you should avoid dark,
deserted, poor neighborhoods, but you can stay in the city centers, the
"Zonas Vivas" (nightlife districts) and the slightly wealthier areas
without great danger. Young people (12-18) who drink alcohol in public
are guilty of "gangster activities."
You should avoid going to
the beach after dark. Attacks on travelers are reported time and again,
especially on the north coast, on the Caribbean coast (around Tela, La
Ceiba and San Pedro Sula), in the cities, as well as in nature parks and
hiking areas. In the province of Olancho, there are occasional police
checks by fake police officers.
Medical care in rural areas is poor. For basic care, go to the IHSS
hospitals in the larger cities. For simple complaints, the more than a
thousand state-run polyclinics called CESAR (CESAMO in rural areas),
which also offer dental care, are there for initial care. The question
of costs should be clarified in advance. Lists of lawyers, doctors and
translators (as of Jan 2023)
Vaccinations against hepatitis A,
tetanus, polio and diphtheria are recommended. There is a risk of
malaria in the northeast of the country (Garcias a Dios) and to a lesser
extent on the Islas de la Bahia.
Honduras, like all of Central
America, is in an earthquake zone.
What was said about poisonous
snakes in Guatemala also applies in Honduras. The deadly poisonous
animals, e.g. Agkistrodon bilineatus, are found mainly at low altitudes
in the forests.
The climate is tropical and varies greatly depending on the altitude
of the region. Daytime temperatures fluctuate between 27 and 33 °C. It
is hottest from mid-March to May. Then the rainy season begins. In
autumn, tropical cyclones can be expected on the Caribbean coast.
High season for Americans and Europeans is December to March.
Officially, smoking has been banned indoors since 2011. On paper, this goes so far that even in your own home, a distance of 1.80 meters from a non-smoker would have to be maintained in order to protect them. Tobacco can be bought from the age of 21.
The tourist information office can be reached free of charge
nationwide on ☎ 800-222-8687.
Clothes can be washed at the
reception of your accommodation.
The postal service is provided by Honducor (postal rates)
The
state-run Hondutel offers mobile, landline and internet services. Claro
and Tigo, which are active in neighboring countries, also compete in the
mobile phone sector. Good coverage is only available in the big cities
and along the main roads. Claro is a little better here. Tigo offers a
payment service for mobile phones, Tigo Money.