Wrangell – St. Elias National Park

Wrangell – St. Elias National Park

Description

Location: Copper Center, Alaska  Map

Area: 13,175,901 acres (53,321 km²)

Official site

Fees and ermits
There are no entrance stations or required fees to enter Wrangell-St. Elias National Park.

 

Wrangell–St. Elias National Park and Preserve, located in south-central Alaska, is the largest national park in the United States, spanning 13.2 million acres (20,625 square miles)—an area larger than Switzerland or Yellowstone, Yosemite, and Glacier National Parks combined. Established as a national monument in 1978 and designated a national park and preserve in 1980 under the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA), it protects a vast wilderness of towering mountains, massive glaciers, pristine rivers, and diverse ecosystems. Shared with Canada’s Kluane National Park as part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it encompasses some of North America’s highest peaks, including Mount St. Elias (18,008 feet), and the continent’s largest glacial system. Named for the Wrangell and St. Elias mountain ranges, the park is a geological and ecological marvel, rich with Indigenous history, mining heritage, and unparalleled recreational opportunities.

 

Ranger stations and visitor centers

1 Wrangell-St. Elias National Park Visitor Center, Mile 106 Richardson Highway, Copper Center, ☎ +1 907-822-5234. All Year: M-F 8AM-4:30PM. Memorial Day-Labor Day: Daily 8AM-6PM. The Headquarters and Visitor Center provides information about the entire park in addition to the administration and management facilities. This new facility between Glennallen and Copper Center. Movie theater, exhibits, and a short nature trail to a spectacular view of the Wrangell Mountains. Park rangers provide guided talks and walks daily during the summer months. Subsistence fishing and hunt permits are also available. Services available in nearby Copper Center include a post office, lodging, gas station, food store, tire repair, and telephone.
2 Slana Ranger Station, Mile 0.5 Nabesna Road, ☎ +1 907-822-7401. Summer: 8AM-5PM; Winter: Open, but call ahead. The Slana Visitor Contact Station provides information about the northern side of the park and the Nabesna Road. ATV permits, and subsistence permits are also issued here. Bookstore, phone, restrooms, maps, and park film shown on TV by request. Guided ranger interpretive programs available.
3 Kennecott Visitor Center, in the historic train depot building within the Kennecott Mill Town, ☎ +1 907-960-1027. Memorial Day through Labor Day 9AM-5:30PM. Information hub for the Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark in the heart of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve. Pick up maps and brochures, join a ranger for a history talk or nature walk, or plan your wilderness excursion. The visitor center also hosts a small branch of the Alaska Natural History Association's bookstore.
4 The McCarthy Road Information Station, mile 59 McCarthy Road. Open Memorial Day to Labor Day 9:30AM-5PM. The information gateway to the communities of McCarthy and Kennecott. As you arrive in McCarthy stop by to get the latest information on parking, shuttle service and park and community events. Rangers are also available to help plan backcountry trips and answer questions. Restrooms and day-use parking are available at this site. Overnight parking and camping can be found at a variety of local private companies.
5 Chitina Ranger Station, Chitina, ☎ +1 907-823-2205. Summer Only: Staffed with assistance from the Chitina Chamber of Commerce Th-M 2PM-6PM. Historic log cabin. Explore the exhibits and watch the 22-minute park movie. Services available in Chitina include a post office, gas station, store, tire repair, cafe and payphone. The log cabin station is decorated with historic photographs featuring the town of Chitina as a transportation hub, "where the rails meet the trails." Trains, stagecoaches, dog sleds, and steamboats all passed through Chitina on their way to the mining and commerce centers of Alaska during Chitina's boom years, 1910-1938.
6 Dry Bay Ranger Station, Yakutat, ☎ +1 907-784-3295. 8:30AM-4:30PM all year. This Ranger Station and Visitor Center serves both Wrangell-St. Elias and Glacier Bay National Park. Exhibits, information, park video, bookstore, and trip planning. Located at the base of the St. Elias Mountains, the city of Yakutat (pop. 633) is a Tlingit settlement on the Gulf of Alaska. Outdoor guide services and commercial fishing are the primary sources of income for most residents. Yakutat is approximately 220 air miles northwest of Juneau, 218 air miles southeast of Cordova and 342 air miles southeast of Anchorage.

 

Getting here

Unlike most other national parks in Alaska, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park has relatively good road access, although there are only two short stretches of road within the park itself. The nearest international airport is in Anchorage. The national park can be reached by road in about four hours via the Glenn Highway. At Glennallen, where the national park's main visitor center is located a little south, the Glenn Highway merges into the Richardson Highway and continues south to Valdez, where larger car ferries via the Alaska Marine Highway also dock.

There are only two gravel roads within the boundaries of the national park, although some car rental companies prohibit driving on these roads. One (McCarthy Road) runs 98 km from Chitina on the west side of the park along the Chitina River to McCarthy, the other (Nabesna Road) runs 73 km from Slana in the north to Nabesna.

 

History

Within the park is Kennicott, an abandoned mining settlement for five copper mines nearby. Kennecott Copper Corporation began construction of the mine in 1908, which began operating in 1911 and quickly attracted large numbers of workers. In 1938 the last mines were shut down. From there, the copper mined in this way was transported via McCarthy to Cordova on the Gulf of Alaska via the Copper River and Northwestern Railway. McCarthy became a ghost town after the copper mines were shut down and the railroad stopped. Only in the 1970s, when the region around Kennicott was developed for tourism, did people settle again. The ruins of the Kennicott mines survive to this day and are on the National Register of Historic Places. In addition to copper mining, gold was also mined at Nabesna in the north.

Established in 1980 by the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act, the national park is almost six times the size of Yellowstone National Park. Three different protection zones have been designated within the park; part is designated as a National Preserve, where the level of protection is lowest. Here, mining or hunting is permitted both as a traditional use of the indigenous people, as well as for non-residents and commercially. Mining continues today on a small scale in private parts of the National Preserve. The 36,732.3 km² Wrangell-Saint Elias Wilderness is designated a Wilderness Area, the strictest class of protected area in the United States. It is the core zone of the national park and at the same time the largest wilderness area in the USA, accounting for ten percent of the entire National Wilderness Preservation System.

Together with Canada's Kluane National Park in the Yukon Territory, Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve in extreme southeast Alaska on the Gulf of Alaska and Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Park in British Columbia (Canada), the park has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1994 . With a total area of 97,124 km², this protected area is one of the largest in the world.

 

Geography

Wrangell–St. Elias straddles south-central Alaska, bordering Canada’s Yukon Territory and British Columbia. It extends from the Gulf of Alaska’s coast to the interior, encompassing diverse landscapes across several physiographic regions.

Major Regions:
Coastal Zone: The park’s southern boundary touches the Gulf of Alaska, featuring fjords, tidewater glaciers, and the Icy Bay area. Malaspina Glacier, larger than Rhode Island, dominates this zone, spilling from the St. Elias Mountains to the coast.
St. Elias Mountains: This rugged range, one of the world’s highest coastal mountain systems, forms the park’s core. Mount St. Elias, the second-highest peak in the U.S., and other giants like Mount Bear (14,831 feet) rise dramatically from sea level, creating extreme vertical relief.
Wrangell Mountains: Located in the park’s northern interior, these volcanic peaks include Mount Wrangell (14,163 feet), an active shield volcano with steam vents, and Mount Drum (12,010 feet). The range is older and less glaciated than the St. Elias.
Chugach Mountains: In the southwest, these mountains transition to the coastal zone, hosting glaciers and alpine terrain.
Copper River Basin: A broad, forested lowland in the north, drained by the Copper River and its tributaries, supports wetlands and boreal forests.
Bagley Icefield and Interior Highlands: The Bagley Icefield, North America’s largest subpolar icefield (100 miles long, 6 miles wide), feeds glaciers like Nabesna and Bering. Interior highlands include rolling tundra and valleys.

Key Features:
The park contains nine of the 16 highest peaks in the U.S., including Mount St. Elias, Mount Bona (16,421 feet), and Mount Blackburn (16,390 feet).
Glaciers cover 25% of the park, with Hubbard Glacier (76 miles long, North America’s largest tidewater glacier) and Bering Glacier (118 miles long, the longest in North America) as standouts.
Rivers like the Copper, Chitina, and Nabesna carve deep valleys, supporting salmon runs and human travel corridors.
Access Points: The park has only two unpaved roads: the 42-mile Nabesna Road in the north and the 60-mile McCarthy Road in the south, leading to the historic towns of McCarthy and Kennecott. Most of the park is accessible only by bush plane, boat, or foot, emphasizing its wilderness character.

Geology
Wrangell–St. Elias is a geological showcase, shaped by tectonic collisions, volcanism, and glaciation over millions of years.

Tectonic Setting:
The park lies at the convergence of the Pacific and North American plates, where subduction and strike-slip faulting drive mountain-building. The St. Elias Mountains formed as the Yakutat microplate collided with North America, creating extreme uplift (up to 1 inch per year).
The Wrangell Mountains are part of a volcanic arc formed 26–10 million years ago, with Mount Wrangell still active (last minor eruption in 1900). Intrusive granites and volcanic rocks dominate the range.

Glacial Sculpting:
The park’s 5,000+ glaciers, covering over 3 million acres, have carved U-shaped valleys, cirques, and fjords. The Bagley Icefield feeds massive glaciers like Malaspina and Bering, which deposit vast moraines and reshape coastal landscapes.
Glacial surges, where glaciers rapidly advance (e.g., Hubbard Glacier’s periodic damming of Russell Fjord), are a dynamic feature.

Rock Types:
The St. Elias range features metamorphic rocks (schist, gneiss) and sedimentary layers uplifted from ancient ocean floors.
The Wrangell range includes volcanic rocks (basalt, andesite) and ash deposits.
The Copper River Basin contains alluvial sediments from glacial and riverine processes.

Fossils and Minerals:
While not as fossil-rich as Badlands National Park, marine fossils in the St. Elias range indicate its oceanic origins. The park’s copper deposits, among the world’s richest, fueled the Kennecott mining boom (1900–1938).
Gold, silver, and other minerals are also present, though less economically viable today.
Geohazards: The park is seismically active, with frequent earthquakes along faults like the Denali and Totschunda. Climate change accelerates glacial retreat, altering river systems and coastal landscapes.

 

Ecology

Wrangell–St. Elias encompasses diverse ecosystems, from coastal rainforests to alpine tundra, supporting a wealth of flora and fauna adapted to extreme conditions.

Flora:
Coastal Zone: Temperate rainforests of Sitka spruce and western hemlock thrive in the wet, mild climate near Icy Bay.
Interior Lowlands: Boreal forests of white spruce, black spruce, and paper birch dominate the Copper River Basin, with willow and alder in wetlands.
Alpine and Tundra Zones: Above treeline (2,500–3,000 feet), alpine meadows and tundra feature dwarf shrubs, lichens, and wildflowers like mountain avens and arctic lupine.
Glacial silt and harsh soils limit vegetation in many areas, but nutrient-rich river valleys support lush growth.

Fauna:
Mammals: The park hosts grizzly and black bears, moose, Dall sheep, mountain goats, caribou, wolves, lynx, and wolverines. Coastal areas support sea otters and harbor seals.
Birds: Over 200 bird species, including bald eagles, trumpeter swans, and peregrine falcons, migrate or nest here. The Copper River Delta, just outside the park, is a critical stopover for millions of shorebirds.
Fish: Salmon (sockeye, coho, chinook) spawn in rivers, sustaining wildlife and human communities. Trout and grayling inhabit lakes and streams.
Conservation: The park’s intact ecosystems support stable populations of large mammals, unlike fragmented habitats elsewhere. Black bear populations, however, face pressures from human activity near McCarthy.

Environmental Challenges:
Climate change drives rapid glacial retreat (e.g., Malaspina Glacier has thinned significantly), altering hydrology and habitats.
Invasive species, like white sweetclover, threaten native plants. Mining legacies (e.g., Kennecott’s tailings) pose localized pollution risks.
The park’s remoteness aids conservation, but warming temperatures increase wildfire risks in boreal forests.

Climate:
The park spans multiple climate zones: coastal areas are wet (100–200 inches of precipitation annually) and mild (20–60°F), while interior regions are drier (10–20 inches) with extreme temperatures (-50°F in winter, 80°F in summer).
High elevations receive heavy snowfall, feeding glaciers and perennial snowfields.

 

Cultural and Historical Significance

Wrangell–St. Elias has a rich human history, from Indigenous stewardship to industrial mining and modern conservation.

Indigenous History:
The Ahtna, Tlingit, Upper Tanana, and Eyak peoples have inhabited the region for at least 10,000 years, relying on salmon, game, and trade networks. The Ahtna, centered in the Copper River Basin, used copper for tools and ornaments, naming the river Atna’tuu (“copper river”).
Indigenous place names, like Chitistone (“stone heart”), reflect deep cultural ties. The park’s rivers and passes were trade routes connecting coastal and interior tribes.
Today, Ahtna and other tribes maintain subsistence rights under ANILCA, fishing, hunting, and gathering within the park. Cultural sites, including fish weirs and village remnants, are protected but sensitive to disturbance.

European and American Exploration:
Russian explorers, including Vitus Bering, mapped the coast in the 1740s, naming Mount St. Elias. The Russian-American Company traded with Tlingit communities but focused on coastal Alaska.
After the U.S. purchased Alaska in 1867, American prospectors explored the interior. The 1898–1899 Klondike Gold Rush brought attention to the region, though Wrangell–St. Elias saw less activity than the Yukon.
Early climbers, like the 1897 Italian expedition led by Prince Luigi Amedeo to summit Mount St. Elias, marked the start of mountaineering in the park.

Mining Era (1900–1938):
The discovery of massive copper deposits in 1900 led to the Kennecott Copper Mine, a National Historic Landmark within the park. The mine, operational until 1938, produced 591,535 tons of copper and 9 million ounces of silver, worth over $1 billion in today’s dollars.
The company town of Kennecott and nearby McCarthy thrived, with the Copper River and Northwestern Railway (CR&NW) linking the mine to Cordova. The railway’s construction, crossing glaciers and rivers, was an engineering feat.
Mining left environmental scars, including tailings and abandoned infrastructure, but Kennecott’s preserved buildings (e.g., the 14-story concentration mill) draw visitors today.

Park Establishment:
Conservation efforts began in the 1920s, with proposals for a national park. ANILCA (1980) established Wrangell–St. Elias as a park and preserve, balancing wilderness protection with subsistence and limited sport hunting in the preserve portion.
Its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site (1979, with Kluane) recognizes its global geological and ecological significance.

 

Recreational Opportunities

Wrangell–St. Elias offers unparalleled wilderness adventures, from mountaineering to backcountry hiking, though its remoteness requires preparation. The park is open year-round, with a $10 entrance fee (often waived due to limited staffed entrances).

Scenic Drives:
McCarthy Road: A 60-mile gravel road from Chitina to McCarthy, following the old CR&NW railway bed. It offers views of the Wrangell Mountains, glaciers, and wetlands but requires caution due to rough conditions and railway spikes.
Nabesna Road: A 42-mile road from Slana to Nabesna, accessing the northern park. It features views of Mount Wrangell and opportunities for hiking and wildlife viewing. High-clearance vehicles are recommended.

Hiking and Backpacking:
Trails are limited near roads, but the park’s vast backcountry is a hiker’s paradise. Popular routes include:
Root Glacier Trail (4 miles round-trip, moderate): From Kennecott, this trail leads to the Root Glacier’s white ice, with options to join guided ice-climbing tours.
Bonanza Mine Trail (9 miles round-trip, strenuous): A steep climb from Kennecott to historic mine ruins, with views of Root and Kennicott Glaciers.
Skookum Volcano Trail (5 miles round-trip, moderate): Off Nabesna Road, this trail crosses volcanic terrain with ash fields and tundra.
Backcountry routes, like the Goat Trail or Donoho Peak, require navigation skills and permits (free, available at visitor centers). Hikers must be bear-aware and prepared for river crossings.

Mountaineering and Climbing:
The St. Elias and Wrangell ranges are a global mountaineering destination. Mount St. Elias, Mount Blackburn, and Mount Sanford are challenging, multi-week expeditions requiring technical skills and logistics (often via bush plane).
Easier peaks, like Mount Donoho, offer non-technical climbs. Guided expeditions are available from outfitters in McCarthy.

Glacier Tours and Ice Climbing:
Guided tours on Root and Kennicott Glaciers include day hikes, ice climbing, and multi-day treks. Outfitters provide crampons and training for beginners.
Flightseeing tours by bush plane offer aerial views of glaciers like Hubbard and Malaspina, often landing on remote icefields.

Wildlife Viewing:
Moose, bears, and Dall sheep are common along roads and trails. The Copper River Basin and coastal areas are prime for birdwatching. Guided rafting trips on the Chitina or Copper River increase wildlife sightings.

Rafting and Kayaking:
The Copper, Chitina, and Kennicott rivers offer Class II–IV rapids for experienced rafters. Coastal kayaking in Icy Bay provides glacier and marine wildlife views. Permits and guides are recommended.

Camping:
Developed Campgrounds: Limited to small sites near McCarthy and Nabesna (e.g., Kendesnii Campground). Fees are minimal or free.
Backcountry Camping: Allowed park-wide with no designated sites. Campers must follow Leave No Trace principles, store food securely, and obtain permits for extended trips.
Winter camping is possible but requires extreme cold-weather gear.

Flightseeing and Air Taxis:
Bush planes from McCarthy, Gulkana, or Glennallen provide access to remote areas, including drop-offs for climbers and backpackers. Scenic flights over the Bagley Icefield or Mount St. Elias are popular.

Cultural and Historical Tours:
Guided tours of Kennecott’s mine buildings, offered by the National Park Service or private operators, explore the mining era. McCarthy’s museums and historic structures provide context.
Indigenous-led tours, when available, highlight Ahtna and Tlingit heritage.

Winter Activities:
Cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and snowmobiling are possible along Nabesna and McCarthy roads (weather permitting). Aurora viewing is spectacular in winter, though access is limited.

 

Visitor Information

Access: The park is remote, with no public transportation. Visitors drive via the Glenn Highway (to Nabesna) or Richardson/Edgerton Highways (to McCarthy). Anchorage (250–300 miles) is the nearest major airport. Bush planes serve McCarthy and remote airstrips.
Visitor Centers:
Wrangell–St. Elias Visitor Center (Copper Center, Mile 106.8 Richardson Highway): Open year-round (seasonal hours), with exhibits, films, and ranger programs on geology, wildlife, and culture.
Kennecott Visitor Center (Kennecott, seasonal): Offers mine tours, maps, and permits.
Slana Ranger Station (Nabesna Road, seasonal): Provides backcountry information and permits.
Best Times to Visit: Summer (June–August) offers mild weather (50–70°F), long daylight, and accessible roads, though mosquitoes are intense. Spring (April–May) and fall (September) provide fewer crowds and vibrant colors but colder temperatures. Winter (October–March) is harsh, with limited access but ideal for aurora viewing.
Amenities: McCarthy and Kennecott offer lodging (e.g., Ma Johnson’s Hotel), dining, and outfitters. No gas or groceries are available in the park; stock up in Glennallen or Chitina. Cell service and Wi-Fi are unreliable.
Safety: Visitors must be self-sufficient, carrying water, food, bear-proof containers, and navigation tools. Weather changes rapidly, and rivers can flood. Bear encounters are common; carry bear spray and make noise while hiking. Backcountry travelers should register with rangers.