Location: 45 mi (72 km) West of Miami Map
Area: 2,500 sq mi (6,216 sq km)
Average rainfall: 60 in (152 cm)
There are no entrance fees. An annual ORV permit, displayed on the inspected vehicle, is required for ORV operation along preserve trails ($50 in 2006). The permit can be obtained at the Oasis Visitor Center.
Big Cypress National Preserve is a vast protected area in
southwest Florida, encompassing approximately 729,000 acres of
diverse wetland ecosystems. Established on October 11, 1974, it
holds the distinction of being the first national preserve in the
United States, a unique designation under the National Park Service
(NPS) that balances conservation with multiple human uses. Spanning
Collier, Lee, and Monroe counties, the preserve is situated adjacent
to
Everglades National Park and serves as a critical
hydrological link in the Greater Everglades system. It conserves the
freshwater flows of the Big Cypress Swamp, which are essential for
maintaining the health of the neighboring Everglades and supporting
nutrient-rich marine estuaries along Florida's southwest coast. The
preserve's rugged terrain includes a mosaic of swamps, prairies, and
forests, making it a biodiversity hotspot and a haven for endangered
species like the Florida panther. Annually, it attracts over one
million visitors who come to experience its wild, subtropical beauty
through hiking, wildlife viewing, and cultural immersion.
Unlike
traditional national parks, which prohibit activities such as
hunting or resource extraction, Big Cypress allows a broader range
of uses to accommodate local traditions and economies. This includes
regulated hunting, off-road vehicle (ORV) trails, limited oil and
gas leasing, private land inholdings, cattle grazing, and
traditional practices by the Miccosukee and Seminole Tribes. This
"one land, many uses" philosophy was a deliberate compromise to
protect the ecosystem while respecting the needs of stakeholders who
had long utilized the area.
The story of Big Cypress National Preserve is deeply intertwined with
the broader environmental and cultural history of south Florida. For
thousands of years, the region was a thriving habitat for Native
American peoples, including ancestors of the Seminole and Miccosukee
Tribes, who navigated its dense mangroves, cypress strands,
alligator-filled sloughs, and tropical fauna for sustenance, travel, and
spiritual practices. These indigenous groups developed intimate
knowledge of the swamp's rhythms, using it for hunting, fishing, and
seasonal migrations along ancient trails like the Nike Missile Base
trail, which still echoes their presence today.
European contact in
the 16th century brought profound changes. Spanish explorers and later
American settlers viewed the wetlands as obstacles to expansion, leading
to aggressive drainage projects in the early 1900s. Visionary developers
like Hamilton Disston and the Florida Fruit Lands Company promoted the
Everglades as fertile farmland, constructing canals that diverted water
flows from the Kissimmee River through Lake Okeechobee and southward.
This transformed the once-vast 11,000-square-mile ecosystem of sawgrass
prairies, pinelands, hardwood hammocks, and mangrove forests into
agricultural plots and urban developments. The area also played a role
in U.S. military history, serving as a training ground during wars due
to its challenging terrain.
By the mid-20th century, unchecked
development threatened the entire Greater Everglades. A pivotal moment
came in the 1960s when plans for the world's largest jetport—proposed
directly over the swamp—sparked widespread opposition. Local
conservationists, sportsmen, scientists, environmental advocates, and
the Seminole and Miccosukee Tribes united against the project, fearing
irreversible ecological damage. Their advocacy, bolstered by figures
like Marjory Stoneman Douglas (author of The Everglades: River of
Grass), led to the jetport's cancellation and paved the way for federal
protection. In 1974, President Gerald Ford signed legislation creating
Big Cypress as the nation's first national preserve, conserving over
729,000 acres while permitting compatible uses like tribal traditions
and limited extraction. This innovative model influenced future
preserves, such as the Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve in Alaska.
The preserve's cultural significance endures through the stories of its
human inhabitants—from indigenous canoe routes to the "swamp rats" who
eked out livings as hunters and trappers. Today, interpretive programs
at visitor centers highlight these narratives, fostering appreciation
for the diverse groups that shaped the landscape.
Big Cypress National Preserve occupies a transitional zone between
the temperate north and tropical south, creating a unique blend of
ecosystems within its freshwater swamp framework. Geographically, it
lies at sea level, with subtle elevations from 0 to 25 feet, dominated
by slow-moving blackwater rivers, sloughs, and solution holes formed by
limestone dissolution. The preserve is part of the larger Big Cypress
Watershed, historically channeling seasonal floodwaters from central
Florida southward to Florida Bay. Its hydrology is driven by heavy
summer rains (up to 60 inches annually) and dry winters, resulting in a
pulse of life that sustains the food web.
The ecosystems form a
patchwork of habitats:
Cypress Swamps and Domes: Iconic strands of
bald cypress trees rise from shallow, tea-colored waters, forming
"domes" where taller trees create circular canopies. These areas flood
seasonally, supporting acid-tolerant plants.
Pinelands and Prairies:
Slash pines dominate fire-adapted sandy soils, interspersed with wet
prairies of muhly grass and sawgrass. Prescribed burns maintain these
open areas, preventing hardwood encroachment.
Hardwood Hammocks and
Mangroves: Elevated "islands" of tropical hardwoods like gumbo-limbo,
strangler fig, and royal palms provide dry refuges. Coastal fringes
include red, black, and white mangroves, buffering against storms.
Sloughs and Marshes: Shark River Slough and other channels carry water
through grassy marshes, teeming with wading birds.
Vegetation
reflects this subtropical diversity, with over 1,000 plant species,
including 120 state-listed rare ones. Orchids, ferns, and air plants
epiphyte on trees, while carnivorous plants like sundews thrive in
nutrient-poor soils. The mix of tropical (e.g., mahogany) and temperate
(e.g., oaks) flora underscores the preserve's role as an ecotone.
Big Cypress is a biodiversity jewel, harboring over 200 bird species,
39 mammal species, and countless reptiles and amphibians. It protects 9
federally listed threatened or endangered animals and 31 state-listed
species of special concern. The elusive Florida panther, with fewer than
250 individuals left, roams here, using the swamp's cover for hunting
white-tailed deer and feral hogs. Conservation has boosted their numbers
through habitat corridors linking Big Cypress to other protected areas.
American alligators, once endangered due to hunting, have rebounded
dramatically—now numbering in the thousands—thanks to federal
protections lifted in 1987. They act as "ecosystem engineers," creating
ponds that benefit fish, otters, and birds like the great blue heron and
roseate spoonbill. Other highlights include the manatee in coastal
waters, the snail kite (a marsh hawk reliant on apple snails), and the
invasive Burmese python, which poses a threat to native prey. Amphibians
like the pig frog chorus at night, while butterflies and dragonflies add
color to the prairies. The preserve's isolation fosters endemism, with
species adapted to fire, flood, and predation.
Unique natural
phenomena include "tree islands" that serve as wildlife oases during
floods and bioluminescent fungi in the understory. The annual "green-up"
after rains transforms the landscape into a vibrant mosaic.
Big Cypress offers immersive outdoor experiences tailored to its wild
character. Key activities include:
Scenic Drives and Trails: The
38-mile Loop Road and Turner River Road provide off-the-beaten-path
views of cypress strands. Over 200 miles of ORV trails (permit required)
allow 4x4 exploration, while 47 miles of designated hiking paths, like
the Florida National Scenic Trail, wind through hammocks.
Water-Based
Adventures: Canoeing or kayaking on the Turner River or Blackwater Canal
reveals hidden sloughs. Fishing for largemouth bass and snook is
popular, with regulated seasons.
Wildlife Viewing and Ranger
Programs: Boardwalks at the NPS Visitor Center offer gator-spotting;
guided canoe tours and night sky programs highlight astronomy in the
low-light-pollution swamp. Discovery hikes focus on ecology and history.
Hunting and Camping: Seasonal hunting for deer, turkey, and hogs occurs
in designated zones. Eight primitive campgrounds (e.g., Midway,
Pinecrest) provide backcountry sites with no facilities—permits needed.
Nearby developed options exist in adjacent areas.
There is no
entrance fee, but ORV and camping permits cost $20–$50. Directions:
Access via U.S. 41 (Tamiami Trail) from Miami (1.5 hours west) or Naples
(45 minutes east); GPS can be unreliable in remote areas. Visitor
centers in Ochopee and Everglades City offer maps and exhibits (open
daily, 9 a.m.–4:30 p.m.). Safety tips include bug spray (mosquitoes peak
June–October), sun protection, and caution around wildlife—panthers and
gators are shy but present. Flooding and heat exhaustion are risks;
check weather and carry water. Contact: 239-695-2000 or nps.gov/bicy.
Despite protections, Big Cypress faces mounting pressures. Oil and
gas exploration remains the most acute threat, with seismic testing and
drilling fragmenting habitats for endangered species like the panther
and eastern indigo snake. Leases from the 1940s allow extraction, but
advocacy groups like the National Parks Conservation Association (NPCA)
and Conservancy of Southwest Florida are pushing for a permanent ban,
citing spills and noise pollution risks. As of 2025, mitigation projects
address past drilling impacts, including habitat restoration.
Other
challenges include invasive species (pythons, melaleuca trees),
sea-level rise eroding mangroves, ORV damage to soils, and a proposed
immigration detention center dubbed "Alligator Alcatraz," which could
pollute waters and disrupt wildlife corridors. Vehicle strikes and
habitat loss continue to imperil panthers, though U.S. Geological Survey
(USGS) efforts expand corridors and monitor populations.
Conservation
successes abound: Alligator recovery exemplifies effective policy, and
the South Florida Natural Resources Center integrates science into
management, using prescribed fires and water restoration to mimic
natural processes. Tribal access rights ensure cultural continuity,
while nonprofits like the Florida National Parks Association educate
visitors. Ongoing Comprehensive Everglades Restoration Plan (CERP)
investments aim to reconnect water flows, bolstering resilience. With
vigilant stewardship, Big Cypress can endure as a living testament to
balanced conservation.