Animas Forks, Colorado

Animas Forks

Location: 12 miles (19 km) Northeast of Silverton, San Juan County, CO  Map

Found: 1873

 

Animas Forks, Colorado, is a remarkably well-preserved ghost town nestled high in the San Juan Mountains, approximately 12 miles northeast of Silverton in San Juan County. Situated at an elevation of 11,200 to 11,584 feet—making it one of the highest mining camps in North America—this remote settlement is a testament to the resilience and ambition of the miners who once sought their fortunes in its gold and silver-rich hills. Established in the 1870s, Animas Forks flourished briefly as a bustling mining community before declining into abandonment by the 1920s. Today, it stands as a premier historical site along the Alpine Loop Scenic Byway, drawing over 250,000 visitors annually to explore its weathered structures and rugged, haunting beauty.

 

Historical Background

The story of Animas Forks begins with the Brunot Agreement of 1873, which ceded much of the San Juan Mountains from Ute territory to white settlers, opening the region to prospectors. In 1873, the first log cabin was erected at the confluence of the North and West Forks of the Animas River, initially earning the settlement the name "Three Forks of the Animas." By February 1875, a post office was established, and the U.S. Postal Service simplified the name to Animas Forks. The town’s strategic location near rich mineral deposits spurred rapid growth, and by 1876, it had transformed into a vibrant mining hub with 30 cabins, a hotel, a general store, a saloon, and a post office.

The late 1870s and early 1880s marked the town’s heyday. By 1883, Animas Forks boasted a summer population of around 450, with some estimates suggesting a peak of up to 1,500 residents. The town was incorporated in 1881 and supported a diverse array of businesses, including three general stores, two butcher shops, two boarding houses, the Mercer House hotel, the Flagstaff House restaurant and bakery, a drug store, two assay shops, a blacksmith, and a jail with two cells. The Animas Forks Pioneer, a newspaper published from 1882 to 1886, holds the distinction of being the highest-altitude newspaper ever printed in the United States. The Dakota and San Juan Mining Company’s large mill, built in 1876, fueled speculative investment, though it was never particularly profitable.

Life in Animas Forks was arduous due to its extreme elevation and harsh climate. Winters were so severe—with temperatures dropping below -30°F and snow accumulations reaching up to 25 feet—that most residents migrated to the “warmer” Silverton (9,308 feet) each fall, returning in spring. A infamous 1884 blizzard buried the town under 25 feet of snow for 23 days, forcing residents to dig tunnels between buildings to move about. Avalanches were a constant threat, frequently destroying structures and disrupting supply lines. In 1877, a massive snow slide demolished the San Juan smelting works, a sawmill, and three cabins, with losses estimated at $30,000.

The town’s prosperity was tied to speculative mining ventures rather than consistent production. Nearby mines, such as the Big Giant, Black Cross, Columbus, Eclipse, Iron Gap, Little Roy, Red Cloud, and the Gold Prince, supported the economy, alongside two smelting and reduction works. However, by the late 1880s, mining profits began to wane, and a devastating fire in October 1891 razed 14 buildings, including the Kalamazoo House hotel, causing $20,000 in damage. The silver market crash of 1893 further eroded the town’s viability, prompting many residents to leave.

A brief revival occurred in the early 1900s. In 1903, the Gold Prince Mine Company acquired the Sunnyside Extension claims, and in 1904, the Silverton Northern Railroad extended tracks from Eureka to Animas Forks, reducing transportation costs. The Gold Prince Mill, constructed at a cost of $500,000, was the largest in Colorado, featuring 100 stamps and a 500-ton daily capacity, with ore delivered via a 12,600-foot aerial tramway. Despite these investments, the mill underperformed and closed in 1910. By 1915, the post office shuttered, and in 1917, much of the mill’s equipment was dismantled for a new facility in Eureka. Another fire in 1913 burned a boarding house and several saloons, further hastening the town’s decline. By the 1920s, Animas Forks was effectively a ghost town.

 

Geography and Access

Animas Forks lies within the breathtaking San Juan Mountains, surrounded by peaks ranging from 11,000 to 14,000 feet, including Snowdon Peak, West Needles Mountain, and Kendall Mountain. The town is part of the 65-mile Alpine Loop, a rugged, unpaved scenic byway connecting Silverton, Ouray, and Lake City. Managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and the U.S. Forest Service, the loop attracts over 100,000 visitors yearly for its stunning vistas, wildflower meadows, and historical sites. The Animas River, whose headwaters lie in the snowfields above the town, flows through the area, adding to its scenic allure.

Reaching Animas Forks requires careful planning due to its remote location and challenging terrain. The 12.3-mile road from Silverton (County Road 2) is rocky and unpaved but passable in summer by high-clearance two-wheel-drive vehicles, though four-wheel-drive is strongly recommended. The route follows the Animas River, passing mining relics and old buildings in Howardsville and Eureka. Beyond Animas Forks, roads to Engineer Pass or Cinnamon Pass (leading to Lake City or Ouray) are strictly four-wheel-drive territory, with steep drop-offs and rough conditions. Visitors are advised to check road conditions, especially in spring or fall, as snow or mud can render paths impassable. Jeep rentals or guided tours from Silverton are popular options for those without suitable vehicles.

 

Preservation and Current State

Today, Animas Forks is one of Colorado’s best-preserved ghost towns, with nine standing buildings and the foundations of roughly 30 others. Key structures include the William Duncan House (also known as the Duncan/Walsh House or Bay Window House), the Gustavson Home, and the jail. The Duncan House, built in 1879, is the most iconic, featuring a distinctive bay window and picturesque architectural elements unusual for such a remote location. It was briefly owned by mining magnate Thomas Walsh, though his daughter Evalyn Walsh McLean, famously associated with the Hope Diamond, never lived there despite local lore. The Gustavson Home, constructed around 1906–1907, is notable for its indoor toilet—a rare luxury connected to an outhouse via a hallway. The 1882 jail, with its 6-inch-thick walls and barred windows, was designed to deter both escapes and vigilante mobs.

The BLM, in collaboration with San Juan County and private owners, has worked diligently to preserve the site. Stabilization efforts in 1997–1998, funded by a Colorado State Historical Fund grant, repaired roofs, porches, and windows. A comprehensive restoration from 2013–2014, overseen by the Mountain Studies Institute, improved drainage, graded paths, and installed shatterproof polycarbonate windows. The town was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2011, unlocking additional funding opportunities. Interpretive brochures and maps, available at the parking area, guide visitors through the site, though some buildings remain fragile, and caution is advised.

 

Visitor Experience

Animas Forks offers a visceral connection to Colorado’s mining past. Visitors can wander freely through the remaining buildings, where peeling wallpaper, 1907 newspapers, and abandoned shelves evoke the lives of its former inhabitants. The Duncan House’s steep, narrow staircase and small upstairs rooms hint at the cramped conditions endured by families. The jail’s sturdy construction reflects the rough justice of the era. The surrounding landscape—electric-green slopes, purple wildflowers, and jagged peaks—adds a layer of awe, though the thin air at 11,200 feet can cause altitude sickness, prompting warnings to descend if symptoms arise.

The site is accessible from May to October, with June through September being the most reliable months due to snowmelt. Summer visitors may encounter a chill, and layering is recommended. The Alpine Loop’s rugged beauty, with waterfalls, mining relics, and panoramic vistas, makes the journey as rewarding as the destination. However, increased tourism (250,000 annual visitors) has strained the site, with vandalism—such as graffiti and theft of artifacts—posing ongoing challenges. The BLM and local advocates urge respect for the historical integrity of the town, and some have suggested measures like hidden cameras to deter defacement.

 

Cultural and Historical Significance

Animas Forks embodies the boom-and-bust cycle of the American West’s mining frontier. Its residents, hailing from places as far-flung as Eastern Europe and Scandinavia, braved extreme conditions in pursuit of wealth, only to face avalanches, fires, and economic collapse. The town’s brief prosperity, fueled by speculative investment rather than sustained production, reflects the optimism and volatility of the era. Stories like that of Esther Ekkard, who ran a popular boarding house and extended credit to miners, or the vigilante pursuit of a debtor to Silverton, highlight the community’s grit and rough justice.

The town’s preservation efforts underscore a broader commitment to safeguarding Colorado’s mining heritage. With over 1,500 ghost towns in the state, Animas Forks stands out for its accessibility, intact structures, and dramatic setting. Its inclusion on the National Register and ongoing restoration work ensure that future generations can grapple with the same question posed by its weathered buildings: How did anyone endure such a harsh existence for the slim chance of striking it rich?

 

Practical Tips for Visitors

Transportation: Rent a high-clearance 4x4 vehicle in Silverton (e.g., from San Juan Backcountry or Rock Pirates Backcountry Adventures) or book a guided Jeep/UTV tour. Sedans are risky, especially beyond Eureka.
Timing: Visit in summer for the best road conditions. Allow 4–6 hours for the round trip from Silverton, including exploration time.
Safety: Bring water, sunscreen, and layers. Watch for altitude sickness (headaches, weakness). Tread carefully in buildings, as some floors are unstable. Keep dogs leashed due to broken glass.
Respect: Do not remove artifacts or deface structures. Report vandalism to the BLM.
Nearby Attractions: Explore the Mayflower Gold Mill (5 miles from Silverton) or continue on the Alpine Loop to Engineer or Cinnamon Pass for more mining ruins and scenery.