The Bear Paw Battlefield, located 16 miles south of Chinook, Montana, on County Route 240 (Cleveland Road) in Blaine County, is a sacred and historically significant site marking the final engagement of the Nez Perce War of 1877. Known to the Nez Perce as C’aynnim Alikinwaaspa ("Place of the Manure Fire," named for the use of buffalo chips as fuel), this remote prairie landscape was the culmination of the Nez Perce’s epic 1,170-mile flight from their homeland in northeast Oregon and Idaho, pursued by the U.S. Army. The five-day battle and siege, fought from September 30 to October 5, 1877, ended with Chief Joseph’s surrender and his iconic words: “From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever.” Today, managed by the National Park Service as part of the Nez Perce National Historical Park and the Nez Perce National Historic Trail, the battlefield is a poignant reminder of Native American resilience and the tragic consequences of U.S. policies toward Indigenous peoples.
The Nez Perce War of 1877 stemmed from the U.S. government’s efforts
to force nontreaty Nez Perce bands onto the Lapwai Reservation in Idaho,
stripping them of their ancestral lands in the Wallowa Valley of
northeast Oregon. In June 1877, tensions escalated when young Nez Perce
warriors, enraged by settler violence, raided white settlements,
prompting a poorly planned Army attack at White Bird Canyon. The Nez
Perce, under leaders including Chief Joseph, Ollokot, Looking Glass, and
White Bird, decisively defeated the Army, sparking a four-month,
1,200-mile flight across Oregon, Idaho, Wyoming, and Montana.
Approximately 800 Nez Perce—men, women, and children—sought refuge first
with Crow allies and later in Canada, pursued relentlessly by U.S.
forces under Brigadier General Oliver O. Howard.
After skirmishes
at Big Hole, Camas Meadows, and Canyon Creek, the Nez Perce, exhausted
and reduced to about 700 people, camped at Bear Paw on September 29,
1877, just 42 miles from the Canadian border. The site, a sheltered
basin along Snake Creek, offered abundant game, fresh water, and
protection from the wind, making it ideal for resting and preparing for
the final push to Canada. Believing Howard’s forces were far behind, the
Nez Perce, led by Looking Glass, underestimated the threat of a rapidly
approaching U.S. Army detachment under Colonel Nelson A. Miles.
On September 30, 1877, Miles, commanding 520 soldiers, civilian
scouts, and about 30 Cheyenne and Lakota scouts, launched a surprise
attack at 9:15 a.m. The assault came in two wings: the 2nd Cavalry
targeted the Nez Perce horse herd to the west, capturing most of their
800 horses in a five-mile running battle, while the 7th Cavalry charged
the bluffs above the camp. Nez Perce warriors, warned minutes earlier by
scouts, took defensive positions just below the bluff’s edge, halting
the 7th Cavalry’s charge in intense close-combat fighting. The 5th
Infantry secured the southern bluff, but the warriors prevented the Army
from reaching the camp, protecting their families. The first day was
devastating for the Nez Perce, with 26 killed, including key leaders
Ollokot (Joseph’s younger brother), Lean Elk, and Toohoolhoolzote. Ten
soldiers also died.
A stalemate ensued. The Nez Perce, entrenched
in dug-out pits and rifle pits, could not escape without their horses,
while the Army could not dislodge them. Freezing conditions, with
several inches of snow falling on September 29, compounded the
suffering. On October 1–3, Miles bombarded the camp with a 12-pounder
Napoleon gun, killing a woman and a young girl but causing little
strategic damage. Snipers on both sides kept the pressure on. On October
4, General Howard arrived with an escort but allowed Miles to retain
tactical control. The Nez Perce were divided on surrender: Joseph,
concerned for the wounded, women, and children, leaned toward
capitulation, while White Bird advocated a breakout to Canada. Joseph
later remarked, “We could have escaped from Bear Paw Mountain if we had
left our wounded, old women, and children behind. We were unwilling to
do this.”
On October 5, after negotiations facilitated by Nez
Perce intermediaries Captain John and Old George, Joseph rode to the
Army’s lines and surrendered his rifle to Miles, ending the siege. Over
400 Nez Perce surrendered, though 30–50, led by White Bird, escaped to
Canada that night, joining Sitting Bull’s camp. The battle resulted in
significant losses: approximately 23–26 Nez Perce and 24 soldiers
killed, with 46 soldiers and an unknown number of Nez Perce wounded.
Nine U.S. soldiers received Medals of Honor for their actions.
Despite Miles’s promise of a safe return to Idaho, the U.S. government sent the surrendered Nez Perce to Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, and later to Indian Territory (Oklahoma), where many died from disease and harsh conditions. This betrayal, described as “one of the blackest records in our dealing with the Indians,” fueled lasting resentment. Chief Joseph and a small group were eventually allowed to return to the Colville Reservation in Washington in 1885, but he never saw his Wallowa homeland again. The Nez Perce’s 1,170-mile flight, marked by tactical brilliance against overwhelming odds, remains one of the most remarkable retreats in U.S. history.
The Bear Paw Battlefield, designated a National Historic Landmark in
1988 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1970,
remains largely unchanged since 1877, its open prairie and rolling hills
preserving the solemnity of the site. A 1.25-mile interpretive trail,
moderately difficult, winds through the battlefield, marked by wayside
exhibits and stakes indicating key events, such as where Ollokot fell,
the Nez Perce encampment, and the site of Joseph’s surrender. A spur
trail leads to Death Rock, where several chiefs were killed, and
visitors can see dug-out pits used for cover. The trail also passes a
soldier burial area, though exact grave locations are unknown, as the
entire site is considered sacred ground by the Nez Perce.
Facilities include a picnic shelter, vault toilets, and parking, but
there is no visitor center or on-site staff except during summer, when
rangers offer guided tours (contact: 406-357-3130). Visitors are urged
to bring water, hats, and weather-appropriate clothing, as the exposed
prairie can be hot in summer or cold and windy in fall. Camping, pets,
and vehicles (including bicycles) are prohibited on the trail to
preserve the site’s integrity. Offerings left by visitors, such as sage
or ribbons, should not be disturbed, and removing artifacts is strictly
forbidden. The site is open from sunrise to sunset, with no entry fee.
The battlefield’s isolation—surrounded by farmland and distant from
major highways—enhances its reflective atmosphere. Visitors often
describe a profound sense of solemnity walking the trail, reading
inscriptions about the fallen, and imagining the desperate conditions of
late September 1877, with snow, hunger, and gunfire. The landscape,
dotted with grassy hills and Snake Creek, looks much as it did during
the battle, offering a tangible connection to the past. The annual Bear
Paw Commemoration, held in early October, hosted by the Nez Perce Tribe
and supported by the National Park Service, draws attendees for
speeches, prayers, and traditional meals, reinforcing the site’s
cultural significance.
The nearby Blaine County Museum in Chinook
(501 Indiana Avenue) complements a visit with its “Forty Miles from
Freedom” multimedia presentation, artifacts like a cavalry horse hoof
with a Burden-style horseshoe, and paintings by Lorenzo Ghiglieri
depicting the battle. The museum also offers National Park Service
cancellation stamps and Junior Ranger activity books. Joint tours of the
museum and battlefield can be arranged (406-357-2590).
The battlefield is accessible only by car via a paved road from Chinook. From Havre, Montana (38 miles northwest), take US-2 East for 24.4 miles, turn right onto Cleveland Road/Route 240, and continue 16 miles to the site. The nearest Amtrak station is in Havre, and the closest Greyhound station is in Great Falls (151 miles southwest), but public transportation to the site is unavailable. The Fort Belknap Reservation, encompassing the battlefield, hosts an annual powwow honoring Chief Joseph, adding cultural context for visitors.
Bear Paw Battlefield is a testament to the Nez Perce’s courage and the devastating impact of U.S. expansionist policies. The Nez Perce’s refusal to abandon their wounded, elderly, and children, even at the cost of freedom, underscores their communal values, as articulated by Joseph: “We had never heard of a wounded Indian recovering while in the hands of white men.” The site also highlights the U.S. Army’s relentless pursuit and the betrayal of promises made to the surrendered, reflecting broader patterns of broken treaties. For the Nez Perce, the battlefield remains a place of mourning and resilience, where descendants continue to fight for cultural preservation and rights.
Preparation: Bring water, sunscreen, and layered clothing. The trail
is exposed, and fall weather can be cold and windy. Check conditions, as
snow may affect access in October.
Respect: Stay on the trail, avoid
touching offerings, and do not collect artifacts. The site is sacred,
and the Nez Perce consider it a memorial to their ancestors.
Timing:
Allow 1–2 hours for the trail and reflection. Summer ranger tours
provide deeper insights; call ahead to confirm availability.
Nearby:
Visit the Blaine County Museum for context. The Big Hole National
Battlefield, another Nez Perce War site, is 355 miles south.
Events:
Attend the October commemoration for a cultural experience, but bring
chairs and prepare for variable weather.