Location: 16 mi (25 km) from Iquitos, Maynas Province
Area:
58,069.9 ha
Tel. 065 265 515
Info: Oficina IIAP, Av. A
Quinones KM2.5, Iquitos
The Allpahuayo-Mishana National
Reserve (Reserva Nacional Allpahuayo-Mishana, or RNALM) is a
protected area in northeastern Peru, renowned for its exceptional
biodiversity and unique ecosystems within the Amazon rainforest.
Established on January 15, 2004, by Supreme Decree No. 002-2004-AG,
the reserve spans 58,069.9 hectares (approximately 580.7 km² or
143,500 acres) in the Loreto Region, specifically within the Maynas
province. It is located about 23 km (14 miles) southwest of the city
of Iquitos, along the Nanay River basin and accessible via the
Iquitos-Nauta highway or by boat from Puerto Bellavista. The
reserve's primary objectives include conserving the biological
diversity of rare white-sand forests (known as "varillales" or
"chamizales"), black-water flooded forests (igapó), and the habitats
surrounding the Nanay River, while supporting sustainable resource
use by local communities and providing drinking water to Iquitos. It
is classified under IUCN Category VI, allowing for managed resource
extraction to balance conservation with human needs. The reserve was
initially proposed in 1999 to protect areas threatened by urban
expansion and resource exploitation, and it has since become a key
site for scientific research and ecotourism.
Geographically, the reserve features a diverse topography, including
seasonally flooded lowlands, well-drained hills, and riverine areas
influenced by the Nanay River and its black-water tributaries. The soils
are highly varied, with up to six types in less than a square kilometer,
ranging from nutrient-poor white quartz sands to red clays and fertile
alluvium. This soil diversity creates distinct microhabitats, including
rare white-sand forests that cover a significant portion of the area.
The Nanay River causes periodic flooding, with water levels peaking in
May (high season) and dropping to their lowest in September (low
season), varying by about 6 meters. Hidden lakes and beaches emerge
during low water periods, adding to the landscape's dynamism.
The
climate is tropical, with an average annual temperature of 26°C (79°F)
and rainfall between 2,500 and 3,000 mm (98–118 inches), distributed
fairly evenly throughout the year but with a wetter season from December
to May. This humid environment supports dense rainforest growth, but the
nutrient-poor sands in varillales areas lead to specialized adaptations
in vegetation.
The reserve protects some of the most diverse ecosystems in the
Peruvian Amazon, particularly the largest concentration of white-sand
varillales forests, which are rare globally and host endemic species
adapted to low-nutrient conditions. Other ecosystems include black-water
igapó forests flooded by tannin-rich waters, periodically inundated
plains, and upland terra firme forests on clay soils. Over 90% of the
forests remain in good conservation status, providing essential
environmental services like carbon sequestration, oxygen production, and
water regulation for the Nanay River, which supplies potable water to
over 500,000 people in Iquitos.
Flora diversity is extraordinary,
with over 1,900 plant species recorded, including nearly 100 unique to
the reserve and more than 500 tree varieties per 2.5 acres—a world
record for tree density. Key species include palms like irapay
(Lepidocaryum tenue), aguaje (Mauritia carana), aguajillo (Mauritiella
aculeata), and huasai, as well as trees such as carachacaspi (Tachigalia
sp.), aceite de caspi (Caraipa tereticaulis), and rodal caimito
(Pouteria sp.). Other notable plants are Hevea guianensis (rubber tree),
Syagrus smithii (palm), Epistephium parviflorum (orchid), Pachira
insignis (kapok relative), Oenocarpus bataua (patawa palm), Cordia
nodosa (boraginaceae), Aspidosperma excelsum (tall tree), Micrandra
spruceana (euphorbiaceae), Iriartea deltoidea (stilt palm), Diclinanona
tessmannii (annonaceae), Bactris simplicifrons (palm), Pagamea coriacea
(rubiaceae), Theobroma subincanum (cacao relative), Parkia multijuga
(legume), Coryanthes alborosea (orchid), Annona montana (soursop
relative), Brosimum utile (breadnut), Euterpe precatoria (açaí palm),
and Iryanthera juruensis (nutmeg relative). Many of these are endemic to
white-sand soils and used sustainably by locals for fruits, fibers, and
medicine.
Biodiversity in the reserve is among the highest in the Amazon, with
records including over 1,700 plant species, 145 mammals, 498 birds (with
239 sighted in a single Global Big Day event), 120 reptiles, 83
amphibians, 155 fish, and more butterfly species than any other site
worldwide. In one small plot, over 500 animal species larger than 2.5 cm
were documented, another world record.
Mammals include endangered
species like the yellow-handed titi monkey (Callicebus lucifer),
equatorial saki (Pithecia aequatorialis)—endemic to the reserve in
Peru—and brown woolly monkey (Lagothrix lagotricha), as well as the red
brocket deer (Mazama americana), brown-mantled tamarin (Saguinus
fuscicollis), lowland paca (Cuniculus paca), South American coati (Nasua
nasua), Northern Amazon red squirrel (Sciurus igniventris), kinkajou
(Potos flavus), jaguar (Panthera onca), and the rare rodent Scolomys
melanops.
Birdlife is a highlight, with 475–498 species, including 21
exclusive to white-sand forests and nine endemic to the Napo Ecoregion.
Notable birds are the Iquitos gnatcatcher (Polioptila
clementsi)—discovered in 2005 and found only here—the ancient antwren
(Herpsilochmus gentryi), Mishana tyrannulet (Zimmerius villarejoi),
Allpahuayo antbird (Percnostola arenarum), northern chestnut-tailed
antbird (Sciaphylax castanea), white-throated tinamou (Tinamus
guttatus), blue-and-yellow macaw (Ara ararauna), nocturnal curassow
(Nothocrax urumutum), reddish hermit (Phaethornis ruber), Connecticut
warbler (Oporornis agilis), fork-tailed woodnymph (Thalurania furcata),
white-throated toucan (Ramphastos tucanus), Spix's guan (Penelope
jacquacu), white-necked jacobin (Florisuga mellivora), and red-necked
woodpecker (Campephilus rubricollis).
Amphibians and reptiles number
71–83 and 120–143 species, respectively, including Boana geographica
(tree frog), Pristimantis acuminatus (rain frog), Ranitomeya reticulata
(poison dart frog), and Leptodactylus pentadactylus (smoky jungle frog).
Fish diversity includes 155 species in rivers and lakes. Invertebrates
are abundant, with over 90 parasitic wasp species and record butterfly
diversity.
Conservation is guided by a Master Plan (updated in 2022), Tourism
Use Plan, Surveillance and Control Plan, and Natural Resource Management
Plans, developed through participatory workshops with local communities.
Efforts focus on ecosystem monitoring, environmental education, capacity
building, and adaptive management to promote sustainable practices like
selective harvesting of palms and fruits. The reserve has helped recover
overexploited resources, defended against illegal extraction, and
integrated communities in tourism and surveillance. It demonstrates
potential for forest bird communities to recover post-logging.
Major
threats include illegal logging, agriculture, non-metallic mining (e.g.,
white sand extraction), dredge mining in the Nanay basin, deforestation
for firewood/charcoal, urban encroachment from Iquitos, and
overexploitation of flora/fauna. A former municipal dump in the buffer
zone and conflicts over resources have been addressed through community
involvement.
Tourism emphasizes nature-based, experiential, and adventure activities, supporting local economies. Popular options include hiking trails through varillales forests, birdwatching (especially for endemics), cycling in the buffer zone, sport fishing (seasonal), wildlife observation (e.g., river otters in hidden lakes), and visits to beaches during low water. New routes opened in 2019, and the reserve reopened in 2021 post-pandemic with enhanced proposals. Entry fee is 11 soles (about $2.80 USD), with transportation from Iquitos costing around 15 soles ($3.90 USD). Day trips are common, but overnight stays are available at basic lodges near Nueva Esperanza community or the Allpahuayo Research Center (CIA) at km 26, which offers bunkhouse accommodations, kitchens, WiFi, and educational exhibits on medicinal plants and native fruits. Guided tours, such as 6-day birding itineraries, include meals and excursions. Rules prohibit unguided entry, littering, or resource extraction; visitors must follow sustainable practices. Communities like Mishana, spanning five generations, offer cultural insights and accommodations.
The reserve's uniqueness lies in its endemism: it's the only global habitat for the Iquitos gnatcatcher and protects Peru's only populations of certain primates like the equatorial saki. It hosts the Amazon's highest soil and microhabitat diversity, making it a "biodiversity hotspot within a hotspot." Research is facilitated by the Instituto de Investigaciones de la Amazonía Peruana (IIAP) at the CIA and EBJAA-IIAP station, focusing on biodiversity, soils, forests, and water systems. It serves as an educational site for students and researchers, with studies on forest dynamics and species like parasitic wasps. In 2024, it was recognized in the Green Destinations Top 100 for sustainable practices.