Location: Al Shareef Hussein, Amman
The Ammonite Watch Tower, known as Rujm Al-Malfouf (Arabic for "Hill of the Twisted" due to its circular shape), is a significant archaeological site in Amman, Jordan. Located on Jabal Amman near the Jordanian Ministry of Antiquities, it is one of the best-preserved remnants of the Ammonite Kingdom, which thrived during the Iron Age II (ca. 1000–500 BCE). This circular stone structure, built primarily in the first millennium BCE, offers a glimpse into the architectural and cultural practices of the Ammonites, a Semitic-speaking people who made Rabbath-Ammon (modern Amman) their capital.
The Ammonite Watch Tower, specifically Rujm Al-Malfouf (North), was
constructed during the Iron Age II, likely between 1000 and 500 BCE,
with evidence suggesting later use or reconstruction during the Roman
period (ca. 1st century BCE–4th century CE). The Ammonites, descendants
of Lot according to biblical accounts (Genesis 19:37–38), occupied the
Central Trans-Jordanian Plateau east of the Jordan River, with their
capital at Rabbath-Ammon. Their kingdom flourished from the late second
millennium BCE to at least the 2nd century CE, maintaining independence
by paying tribute to empires like the Neo-Assyrian and Neo-Babylonian.
Rujm Al-Malfouf is one of approximately 30 similar structures in the
Amman region, with 18 others identified in close proximity, suggesting a
network of towers across the Ammonite frontier. Initial excavations,
conducted intermittently since the 19th century, dated the tower to the
early Roman period based on pottery finds (e.g., Eastern Sigillata A)
and architectural features like Roman-Byzantine corbel arching. However,
comparisons with other regional towers and Iron Age ceramic evidence
point to an earlier Ammonite origin, likely in the 7th century BCE or
earlier.
The tower’s historical significance lies in its
association with the Ammonite Kingdom, which played a key role in
regional trade along the King’s Highway, connecting Egypt to
Mesopotamia. The Ammonites were known for agriculture, herding, and
resource extraction (sandstone and limestone), contributing to their
economic prosperity. The tower’s construction reflects their need to
secure their territory, whether for defense, agriculture, or storage,
during a period marked by power struggles with neighboring kingdoms and
invasions by Assyrian, Babylonian, and later Hellenistic powers.
Rujm Al-Malfouf is a circular tower complex with a diameter of
approximately 22 meters and a preserved height of about 5.5 meters,
constructed from large, roughly hewn limestone slabs sourced locally.
Its robust design and elaborate substructures distinguish it as one of
the largest and best-preserved tower complexes in Amman.
Key
architectural features include:
Circular Structure: The tower’s round
shape, unusual for military fortifications, gives it the name “Twisted
Stone.” It consisted of multiple rooms across at least two floors,
suggesting a complex interior layout.
Annex: An adjacent annex,
preserved only at the foundation level, likely served as the entrance to
the tower. This annex may have housed additional storage or living
spaces.
Ventilation System: Elaborate substructures, possibly
including channels or air shafts, indicate a sophisticated ventilation
system, potentially for preserving stored goods like grain or
maintaining habitable conditions.
Construction Materials: The use of
large limestone blocks reflects Ammonite construction techniques, though
the craftsmanship is considered less refined than Roman standards seen
in sites like Gerasa (Jerash).
Roman Modifications: Pottery and
architectural elements (e.g., corbel arching) suggest Roman-period
renovations or reuse, possibly as a military outpost or storage
facility.
The tower’s isolated location, without connections to city
walls or other fortifications, has fueled debate about its function, as
it lacks the defensive features of traditional military structures. Its
elevated position on Jabal Amman, overlooking valleys, provided
strategic visibility, whether for monitoring trade routes, protecting
farmlands, or signaling.
The precise function of Rujm Al-Malfouf remains a subject of
scholarly debate, with evidence suggesting multifunctional uses that
evolved over time. Several theories exist:
Agricultural Storage
(Granary): Many archaeologists argue that the tower served as a granary
or farmstead during the Ammonite period, designed to store grain and
protect harvests from nomadic raids or thieves. The ventilation system
and lack of defensive walls support this hypothesis, as does the tower’s
location in a fertile region. Similar structures in Madaba, Irbid, and
Palestine are interpreted as agricultural installations.
Watchtower
or Signal Post: The Jordanian Ministry of Antiquities and some sources
describe it as a watchtower, part of a network to monitor Ammonite
territory and warn of approaching threats, such as Israelite or Assyrian
forces. Its elevated position supports this role, though its isolation
from settlements weakens the military argument.
Military Fortress:
Some propose it was a defensive structure within a chain of
fortifications, likened to a “Limes Ammonites” frontier system, similar
to later Roman Limes Arabicus. However, the absence of walls or barracks
makes this less likely.
Multifunctional Use: The most widely accepted
view is that the tower served multiple purposes depending on the period
and needs. During peacetime, it likely functioned as an agricultural
hub, while in times of conflict, it could have been repurposed for
surveillance or defense. Its Roman-period use suggests adaptation for
military or administrative purposes.
The tower’s design, with
multiple rooms and floors, suggests it could support a small community
or workforce, possibly farmers or guards, reinforcing its role as a
rural outpost rather than a purely military structure.
The Ammonite Watch Tower is a vital link to the Ammonite Kingdom,
offering insights into a civilization often overshadowed by its
neighbors (Israel, Judah, Moab, and Edom). Its significance includes:
Ammonite Legacy: As one of the few surviving Ammonite structures in
Amman, alongside parts of the Amman Citadel, Rujm Al-Malfouf preserves
the memory of a people who shaped Jordan’s early history. The Ammonites’
capital, Rabbath-Ammon, was a hub of trade and culture, and the tower
reflects their architectural and organizational capabilities.
Archaeological Value: The tower’s preservation and associated finds
(e.g., Iron Age ceramics) provide evidence of Ammonite life, challenging
earlier assumptions that the region declined after Babylonian conquests.
Recent studies show continuity into the Persian period (550–330 BCE).
Trade and Economy: The tower’s location near the King’s Highway
underscores the Ammonites’ role in regional trade, managing resources
like sandstone, limestone, and agricultural goods. Its potential as a
granary highlights their sophisticated resource management, as noted in
a bronze bottle inscription from Tell Siran celebrating King Amminadab’s
agricultural success.
Cultural Identity: The tower connects to
Ammonite religion and identity, centered on gods like Milcom (likely an
epithet for El) and possibly lunar deities, as suggested by finds at
sites like Rujm Kursi. While the tower itself lacks religious artifacts,
its context within Ammonite territory ties it to their Levantine
religious traditions.
Tourist and Educational Role: Though less
prominent than the Amman Citadel or Roman Theatre, the tower attracts
history enthusiasts and archaeologists, offering a tangible link to
Jordan’s pre-Hellenistic past. Its proximity to modern Amman highlights
the city’s deep historical roots.
However, the tower’s significance
is tempered by its obscurity. Biblical accounts often portray the
Ammonites negatively, as hostile neighbors to Israel (e.g., Amos 1:13,
Judges 10:6–9), which may bias historical perceptions. Additionally, the
lack of public access limits its cultural impact, as discussed below.
Location: Sultan Al-Atrash St. at the corner of Mahmoud Al-Abedi St.,
Jabal Amman, across from the Jordanian Ministry of Antiquities. It is
near Zahran Park and the King Abdullah I Mosque (1 km northeast).
Access: The tower is fenced off and not open to the public, managed by
the Department of Antiquities. Visitors can view it from outside the
gate, but entry is restricted, reportedly due to its proximity to
government offices. Taxi is the easiest way to reach it, as public
transport options are limited in this residential area. A 28-minute walk
from the Museum of Parliamentary Life or 14-minute walk from the King
Abdullah I Mosque is feasible.
Opening Hours: No official hours, as
the site is closed to visitors. Viewing from the exterior is possible
during daylight.
Admission: Free to view from outside; no entry fees
apply due to restricted access.
Best Time to Visit: Spring
(March–May) or fall (September–November) for mild weather. Sunrise or
sunset enhances visibility of the stonework.
Nearby Attractions: King
Abdullah I Mosque (1 km), Museum of Parliamentary Life (28-minute walk),
Abdali Mall, and the Amman Citadel (2–3 km). The Jabal Amman
neighborhood, one of Amman’s seven hills, offers cultural sites like the
Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts.
Contact: Inquiries can be made
through the Department of Antiquities (no direct number listed) or local
tour operators like Wonders Travel and Tourism.
Visitors typically
spend 10–20 minutes observing the tower from outside, often combining it
with nearby historical or cultural sites. Its inaccessibility is a
significant drawback, as noted by bloggers who express frustration at
being unable to explore the site closely.
While Rujm Al-Malfouf is a valuable archaeological site, several
aspects invite critical scrutiny:
Restricted Access: The tower’s
closure to the public, enforced by the Department of Antiquities, limits
its educational and cultural impact. Unlike the Amman Citadel or Roman
Theatre, which welcome tourists, Rujm Al-Malfouf remains a
“look-but-don’t-touch” site, possibly due to its proximity to government
facilities or preservation concerns. This exclusivity contrasts with
Jordan’s efforts to promote its heritage tourism.
Uncertain Function:
The ongoing debate over the tower’s purpose—granary, watchtower, or
fortress—reflects a broader gap in understanding Ammonite society. The
lack of definitive artifacts (e.g., weapons or religious items) hinders
a clear interpretation, and assumptions about its military role may stem
from outdated narratives prioritizing conflict over agriculture.
Narrative Bias: Biblical and Assyrian sources often depict the Ammonites
as antagonistic or subordinate, potentially skewing modern
interpretations. For example, the Bible condemns Ammonite hostility
(Amos 1:13) and links them to controversial deities like Moloch,
possibly a misidentification of Milcom. Archaeological evidence, such as
the Tell Siran inscription, suggests a more prosperous and organized
society, which the tower’s agricultural role supports.
Urban
Encroachment: The tower’s location in a residential area, surrounded by
modern buildings, risks its preservation and diminishes its historical
ambiance. Unlike the Amman Citadel, which benefits from its open-air
museum setting, Rujm Al-Malfouf feels disconnected from its original
context, as noted by visitors.
Understudied Heritage: The Ammonite
period remains poorly understood due to limited excavations and the
dominance of Roman and Umayyad sites in Jordan’s tourism narrative.
Recent discoveries, like the Ammonite structure at the Amman Citadel,
highlight untapped potential, but Rujm Al-Malfouf’s obscurity suggests
underinvestment in pre-Hellenistic history.
These critiques
underscore the need for greater public engagement and further research
to elevate the tower’s status as a cultural asset.