The Roman Theatre, often referred to as the Roman Amphitheatre, in Amman, Jordan, is one of the city’s most iconic and well-preserved archaeological landmarks, dating to the 2nd century CE. Located in the heart of downtown Amman at the foot of Jebel Al-Joufah, opposite the Amman Citadel, this 6,000-seat theatre is a testament to the grandeur of Roman urban planning and the cultural significance of ancient Philadelphia, as Amman was known during Roman times. Constructed between 138–161 CE during the reign of Emperor Antoninus Pius, the theatre is part of a larger complex that includes the adjacent Roman Forum and Odeon, reflecting the city’s role as a key hub in the Decapolis, a league of ten Greco-Roman cities in the Levant.
The Roman Theatre was built when Amman, then called Philadelphia
after the Ptolemaic ruler Philadelphus, was a thriving city under Roman
rule. As a member of the Decapolis, Philadelphia was a center of trade,
culture, and administration in the Provincia Arabia, established by
Emperor Trajan in 106 CE. The theatre’s construction, dated to 138–161
CE, aligns with the reign of Antoninus Pius, a period of relative
stability and prosperity in the Roman Empire. An inscription dedicating
the theatre to Antoninus Pius, discovered during excavations, confirms
this timeline.
The theatre served as the primary venue for public
entertainment in Philadelphia, hosting theatrical performances,
gladiatorial contests, musical events, and civic gatherings. Its
location at the base of Jebel Al-Joufah, integrated with the Roman Forum
(a public square) and the nearby Odeon (a smaller 500-seat auditorium),
reflects Roman urban design, where cultural and civic spaces were
central to city life. The theatre’s northern orientation ensured that
spectators were shaded from the harsh sun, a practical consideration in
Jordan’s climate.
Following the Roman period, the theatre fell
into disuse during the Byzantine era (4th–7th centuries CE) and the
subsequent Islamic conquests, including the Battle of Yarmouk (636 CE).
Over centuries, sediment from the adjacent hills buried much of the
structure, preserving it from looting and urban development. The theatre
was rediscovered and excavated in the 20th century, with major
restoration efforts beginning in the 1940s under the Jordanian
Department of Antiquities and continuing into the 1990s with
international support, including from USAID. Today, it remains a
functional venue, hosting cultural events like the Jordan Festival and
Al-Balad Music Festival, bridging ancient heritage with modern Jordanian
culture.
The Roman Theatre is a classic example of Roman amphitheatre
architecture, carved into the hillside of Jebel Al-Joufah to minimize
construction costs while maximizing acoustic and visual effects. With a
capacity of 6,000 spectators, it is one of the largest and steepest
theatres in Jordan, rivaling those in Jerash and Bosra. Below are the
key architectural features, based on archaeological descriptions and
visitor accounts:
1. Layout and Structure
Semicircular Design:
The theatre follows the standard Roman amphitheatre plan, with a
semicircular seating area (cavea) facing a raised stage (scaena) and
orchestra pit. The cavea is carved directly into the hillside, reducing
the need for extensive substructures common in freestanding theatres
like Rome’s Colosseum.
Dimensions: The theatre spans approximately
100 meters in diameter at its widest point, with the cavea rising to a
height of about 30 meters. The stage area is 30 meters wide, and the
orchestra pit is a semicircular space between the stage and seating.
Three-Tiered Seating (Cavea): The seating is divided into three
horizontal sections (maeniana), separated by walkways (praecinctiones):
Ima Cavea: The lowest tier, closest to the stage, reserved for the
elite, including Roman officials and wealthy citizens. It features 14
rows of seats.
Media Cavea: The middle tier, with 20 rows, for the
general public.
Summa Cavea: The upper tier, with 10 rows, for lower
classes, women, and possibly slaves. This tier offers panoramic views of
Amman but is the steepest climb.
Access Tunnels (Vomitoria): Two
vaulted tunnels on either side of the cavea provide access to the upper
tiers, allowing efficient crowd movement. These tunnels are still
functional, with visitors entering through them.
2. Stage and
Backdrop (Scaenae Frons)
Stage Platform: The raised stage,
constructed from limestone, was used for performances, with a proscenium
(front wall) decorated with niches and statues, though most have been
lost. The stage floor, partially restored, likely featured wooden panels
in antiquity for acoustic enhancement.
Scaenae Frons: The elaborate
backdrop, a two-story facade, was adorned with Corinthian columns,
niches, and statues depicting gods, emperors, or mythological figures.
Only fragments remain, but the facade’s grandeur is evident in the
surviving columns and bases.
Shrines: Two small shrines dedicated to
gods, possibly Dionysus (patron of theatre) or local deities, are
located at the stage’s ends, reflecting the religious context of Roman
performances.
3. Orchestra and Seating
Orchestra Pit: The
semicircular area between the stage and cavea, reserved for musicians or
dignitaries, is paved with limestone slabs. It served as a focal point
for acoustic projection.
Stone Seating: The seats are carved from
local limestone, with some inscribed with names or markings, possibly
indicating reserved spots for prominent citizens. The steep incline (up
to 45 degrees in the summa cavea) maximizes visibility and acoustics but
can be challenging to climb.
Acoustics: The theatre’s design ensures
excellent sound projection, allowing actors’ voices to reach the upper
tiers without amplification. Modern performances confirm this acoustic
precision, a hallmark of Roman engineering.
4. Construction
Materials
Local Limestone: The theatre is primarily built from white
and pink limestone quarried locally, giving it a cohesive aesthetic that
blends with Amman’s hills. The stone’s durability has contributed to the
theatre’s preservation.
Reused Elements: Some columns and decorative
elements may have been repurposed from earlier structures, a common
Roman practice seen in the nearby Temple of Hercules at the Citadel.
Restoration Materials: Modern restorations use concrete and new
limestone to stabilize the structure, though efforts preserve the
original stonework where possible.
5. Adjacent Structures
Roman Forum: Directly in front of the theatre, the Roman Forum (100 x 50
meters) was a public square with colonnades, serving as a gathering
space for pre- and post-performance activities. A row of Corinthian
columns remains, partially restored.
Odeon: To the east, the Odeon, a
500-seat auditorium built in the 2nd century CE, hosted smaller
performances like poetry readings and concerts. Its proximity to the
theatre underscores the cultural vibrancy of Roman Philadelphia.
Museums: The theatre complex houses two small museums:
Jordan
Folklore Museum: Displays traditional Jordanian clothing, crafts, and
cultural artifacts.
Jordanian Museum of Popular Traditions: Showcases
jewelry, mosaics, and historical objects, complementing the theatre’s
historical context.
6. Orientation and Environment
Northern
Orientation: The theatre faces north to shield spectators from the sun,
a practical design choice in Jordan’s hot climate. This orientation also
aligns with the natural slope of Jebel Al-Joufah, minimizing
construction effort.
Integration with Landscape: Carved into the
hillside, the theatre harmonizes with Amman’s topography, offering views
of the Amman Citadel and Temple of Hercules from the upper tiers,
enhancing its scenic appeal.
The Roman Theatre is a cultural and historical treasure, reflecting
Amman’s importance in the Roman world and its enduring legacy in modern
Jordan. Its significance spans several dimensions:
Roman Cultural
Hub: As a Decapolis city, Philadelphia was a melting pot of Greco-Roman
and local Semitic cultures. The theatre hosted performances of Greek
tragedies, Roman comedies, and gladiatorial contests, fostering cultural
exchange and civic pride.
Architectural Mastery: The theatre’s design
showcases Roman engineering, with its acoustic precision, efficient
crowd management, and integration into the landscape. Its preservation
rivals theatres in Jerash and Bosra, making it a key example of
provincial Roman architecture.
Historical Continuity: Buried by
sediment after the Roman period, the theatre’s rediscovery and
restoration highlight Amman’s layered history, from Ammonite and
Hellenistic times to Roman, Byzantine, and Islamic eras. Its proximity
to the Umayyad Palace and Byzantine Basilica at the Citadel underscores
this continuity.
Modern Cultural Venue: Restored to functionality,
the theatre hosts events like the Jordan Festival, Al-Balad Music
Festival, and concerts, with performers like Omar Al-Abdallat and
international artists. This revival connects ancient heritage with
contemporary Jordanian identity.
Tourism and Identity: The theatre is
a top tourist attraction, symbolizing Amman’s historical depth and
Jordan’s commitment to preserving its past. Its inclusion in the Jordan
Pass and proximity to downtown make it a gateway to exploring the city’s
heritage.
Compared to other Roman theatres in Jordan, such as
Jerash’s North Theatre (smaller, 2,000 seats) or Bosra’s (larger, 15,000
seats), Amman’s theatre stands out for its urban integration,
preservation, and modern use, though it lacks the decorative mosaics of
sites like Madaba.
The Roman Theatre is exceptionally well-preserved, thanks to its
burial under sediment for centuries and extensive restoration efforts.
Key aspects of its current condition include:
Preservation: The
cavea, stage, orchestra, and access tunnels are largely intact, with
80–90% of the original limestone seating surviving. The scaenae frons is
partially reconstructed, with some columns and niches restored to evoke
its original grandeur.
Restoration: Excavations began in the 1940s,
with major work in the 1950s–1960s by the Jordanian Department of
Antiquities and in the 1990s with USAID and international support.
Restorations used modern materials to stabilize the structure while
preserving authenticity, though some purists note visible concrete
patches.
Modern Use: The theatre is a functional venue, hosting up to
6,000 people for events like the Jordan Festival (July–August) and
Al-Balad Music Festival. Its acoustics remain excellent, and modern
lighting enhances evening performances.
Environmental Challenges:
Exposure to weather and urban pollution requires ongoing maintenance,
with cleaning and repairs noted in recent reviews. The steep steps can
be slippery, and safety railings have been added in some areas.
Associated Museums
Jordan Folklore Museum: Located in the theatre’s
western vault, it displays traditional Jordanian costumes, musical
instruments, and household items, offering insights into
19th–20th-century Bedouin and village life.
Jordanian Museum of
Popular Traditions: In the eastern vault, it showcases mosaics, jewelry,
and artifacts from Jordan’s Islamic and pre-Islamic periods, including
Nabataean and Roman pieces. Both museums are small but enhance the
theatre’s cultural context.
The theatre’s integration with the
Hashemite Plaza (modernized Roman Forum) and Odeon creates a cohesive
historical complex, making it a focal point of downtown Amman.
Visiting the Roman Theatre is a highlight of Amman, offering a blend
of historical exploration, stunning views, and cultural immersion.
Here’s what to expect:
Duration of Visit: Exploring the theatre
takes 30–60 minutes, including climbing the tiers, viewing the stage,
and visiting the museums. Combining with the Odeon, Roman Forum, and
nearby sites like the Amman Citadel extends the visit to 2–3 hours.
Accessibility: Located in downtown Amman on Taha’a Al-Husseini Street,
opposite the Amman Citadel, the theatre is easily reached by:
On
Foot: A 5-minute walk from Hashemite Plaza or Grand Husseini Mosque.
Taxi/Rideshare: Costs 1–2 JOD from areas like Rainbow Street or Al
Abdali. Use Uber, Careem, or GPS coordinates (e.g., XW62+5Q).
Public
Transport: Buses or shared taxis from Raghdan Tourist Terminal stop near
the theatre.
Car: Limited parking is available near the Hashemite
Plaza.
Entry Requirements:
Admission: 2 JOD (~2.82 USD) for
tourists, includes the theatre and two museums; 0.25 JOD for Jordanian
residents; free with the Jordan Pass.
Hours: Open 7:00 AM–6:00 PM
daily (April–September); 7:00 AM–4:00 PM (October–March). Extended hours
may apply during festivals. Confirm via www.visitjordan.com.
Highlights:
Seating Tiers: Climbing to the summa cavea offers
breathtaking views of Amman, the Citadel, and Temple of Hercules. The
steep incline is a physical challenge but rewarding, with the “best view
in Amman” noted by visitors.
Stage and Orchestra: The restored stage
and orchestra pit are photogenic, with niches and columns evoking Roman
grandeur. Standing in the orchestra demonstrates the theatre’s
acoustics—whispers carry to the upper tiers.
Museums: The Folklore
Museum and Museum of Popular Traditions, located in the vaults, are
compact (10–15 minutes each) but offer cultural context, with displays
like Bedouin textiles and Nabataean jewelry.
Hashemite Plaza: The
adjacent plaza, with its fountains and Corinthian columns, is a lively
public space for people-watching and photos, especially at sunset.
Atmosphere: The theatre is described as “awe-inspiring” and “beautifully
preserved,” with a vibrant yet relaxed ambiance. Locals and tourists
mingle, and children often play in the lower tiers, creating a communal
feel. Evening visits during performances are magical, with lighting
enhancing the stonework.
Photography: Permitted throughout, with the
upper tiers, stage, and columns offering iconic shots. Sunset provides
dramatic lighting, capturing the Citadel’s silhouette.
Guided Tours:
On-site signage is minimal, but English-speaking guides (~10–15
JOD/hour) at the ticket office provide context about Roman life and the
theatre’s history. Audio tours or apps like GPSmyCity offer self-guided
options. Group tours often combine the theatre with the Citadel,
Nymphaeum, and Rainbow Street.
Nearby Attractions:
Roman Forum
(Hashemite Plaza) (adjacent): A 2nd-century public square with
Corinthian columns.
Odeon (adjacent): A 500-seat auditorium for
musical performances.
Roman Nymphaeum (0.5 km): A 191 CE public
fountain with restored features.
Amman Citadel (1 km uphill): Home to
the Temple of Hercules, Umayyad Palace, and Byzantine Basilica.
Grand
Husseini Mosque (0.5 km): A historic mosque rebuilt in 1932.
Rainbow
Street (2 km): A trendy area with cafes, galleries, and nightlife.
Jordan Museum (3 km): Houses the Dead Sea Scrolls and Ain Ghazal
statues.
Limitations:
The steep steps (up to 45 degrees) can
be challenging, especially in the summa cavea, requiring caution and
fitness. No elevators are available, limiting accessibility for those
with mobility issues.
Minimal signage means casual visitors may miss
historical context without a guide or research.
The museums are small
and lack extensive English labels, potentially underwhelming for some.
Crowds during festivals or peak tourist seasons (March–May,
September–November) can detract from the experience, and the open site
offers little shade, requiring sun protection.
Location: Roman Theatre, Taha’a Al-Husseini St., Downtown Amman,
Jordan (XW62+5Q).
Opening Hours: 7:00 AM–6:00 PM (April–September);
7:00 AM–4:00 PM (October–March). Extended hours during festivals.
Confirm via www.visitjordan.com.
Admission: 2 JOD (~2.82 USD) for
tourists, includes theatre and museums; 0.25 JOD for Jordanian
residents; free with Jordan Pass.
Getting There:
On Foot:
5-minute walk from Hashemite Plaza, Grand Husseini Mosque, or Roman
Nymphaeum.
By Taxi/Rideshare: Costs 1–2 JOD from Rainbow Street, Al
Abdali, or Citadel. Use Uber, Careem, or GPS coordinates.
By Public
Transport: Buses or shared taxis from Raghdan Tourist Terminal (0.5–1
JOD) stop near the theatre.
By Car: Limited parking at Hashemite
Plaza or nearby streets.
Tips for Visitors:
Visit early
morning or late afternoon for cooler temperatures, fewer crowds, and
better lighting for photos.
Wear sturdy shoes for the steep, uneven
steps, and bring water, sunscreen, and a hat for sun protection.
Climb to the summa cavea for panoramic views, but use caution on the
steep incline.
Check the Jordan Festival or Al-Balad Music Festival
schedule (July–August) for evening performances, booking tickets via
www.ticket.jo or local vendors.
Hire a guide or use an audio tour for
historical context, as signage is limited.
Combine with the Citadel,
Nymphaeum, and Rainbow Street for a full-day itinerary.
Contact:
Jordan Tourism Board (www.visitjordan.com); ticket office inquiries via
local tourism agencies like Viator or Evendo. No direct phone listed,
but the Department of Antiquities can be reached at +962 6 463 8795.
The Roman Theatre is a magnificent example of Roman architecture and
a cultural cornerstone of Amman, but it has limitations. Its
preservation is remarkable, but modern restorations using concrete and
new limestone can feel inauthentic to purists, though necessary for
structural integrity. Compared to Jerash’s theatres, which benefit from
a larger archaeological park, Amman’s theatre is constrained by its
urban setting, with modern buildings encroaching on its historical
ambiance.
The museums, while charming, are small and lack the
depth of the Jordan Museum or Jordan Archaeological Museum, with limited
English signage noted in reviews. The steep seating poses accessibility
challenges, and the lack of shade or seating areas for rest can deter
older visitors. Claims that it is the “best-preserved Roman theatre in
the world” are exaggerated; sites like Aspendos (Turkey) or Bosra
(Syria) are comparably intact, though Amman’s theatre excels in its
urban integration and modern use.
The narrative of the theatre as
a purely Roman creation should be nuanced; its design reflects
Hellenistic influences from the Decapolis, and its reuse of local
limestone ties it to Jordanian traditions. The theatre’s revival as a
cultural venue is a strength, but overcrowding during festivals and
occasional litter, noted in some reviews, suggest a need for improved
management. For visitors, the theatre’s accessibility, affordability,
and scenic views make it a must-see, but its full historical
significance shines with guided context.