The Colonnaded Street, or Cardo Maximus, of Jerash, Jordan, is one of the most iconic and well-preserved features of this ancient Roman city, known as Gerasa in antiquity. As a central artery of a prominent Decapolis city, the street encapsulates the grandeur, urban sophistication, and cultural vibrancy of Roman-era Jerash, which thrived from the 1st to 3rd centuries CE.
Jerash, located about 48 kilometers north of Amman, was one of the
ten cities of the Decapolis, a league of Greco-Roman cities in the
eastern Roman Empire. Founded in the Hellenistic period (circa 2nd
century BCE), possibly by Alexander the Great or his successors, Gerasa
reached its zenith under Roman rule, particularly during the 1st and 2nd
centuries CE. The Colonnaded Street was constructed in the 1st century
CE and significantly enhanced during the reign of Emperor Trajan (98–117
CE), a period of prosperity marked by extensive urban development across
the empire.
The Cardo Maximus was the primary north-south
thoroughfare of Gerasa, serving as the city’s economic, social, and
ceremonial spine. It connected key civic and religious sites,
facilitating trade, governance, and public life. Its design reflects the
standardized Roman urban planning model, seen in cities like Pompeii,
Palmyra, and Antioch, but its state of preservation makes it one of the
finest examples of a Roman colonnaded street in the world.
The Colonnaded Street stretches approximately 800 meters from the
North Gate to the Oval Plaza, a monumental public space that served as
the city’s forum. Its design and construction showcase Roman engineering
prowess and aesthetic sensibilities, with meticulous attention to both
function and beauty. Below are its key architectural elements:
1.
Pavement and Layout
The street is paved with large, rectangular
limestone slabs, quarried locally, laid in a slightly diagonal pattern
to enhance stability and drainage. The stones, polished by centuries of
foot and chariot traffic, bear visible ruts from chariot wheels,
offering a tangible connection to the past.
The street is remarkably
straight, adhering to Roman urban planning principles, with a consistent
width of about 7–8 meters. This allowed for the passage of pedestrians,
carts, and ceremonial processions.
Beneath the pavement lies an
advanced drainage system, with underground channels and visible manholes
(some still intact) designed to manage rainwater and wastewater, a
hallmark of Roman urban infrastructure.
2. Columns and
Entablature
The street is flanked by two parallel rows of Corinthian
columns, originally numbering over 500, with approximately 260 still
standing or restored. Each column, carved from local limestone, stands
about 5–6 meters tall and is topped with intricately designed Corinthian
capitals featuring acanthus leaf motifs.
The columns supported an
entablature, which may have held a partial roof, awnings, or decorative
elements to provide shade and enhance the street’s grandeur. Some
columns bear inscriptions or carvings, including dedications to emperors
or local benefactors.
The spacing of the columns is regular, creating
a rhythmic visual effect that emphasizes the street’s symmetry and
scale. The columns are slightly elevated on plinths, adding to their
imposing presence.
3. Sidewalks and Porticos
Elevated
sidewalks, approximately 2–3 meters wide, run along both sides of the
street, providing pedestrian pathways separate from vehicular traffic.
These sidewalks were paved with smaller stones or mosaics in some areas,
though much of the original surfacing has worn away.
The sidewalks
were lined with porticos—covered walkways supported by additional
columns or walls—that housed shops, workshops, and public spaces. These
porticos served as commercial hubs where merchants sold goods ranging
from textiles to spices, and where locals gathered for social
interaction.
Niches and small altars along the sidewalks suggest that
some areas were used for religious or commemorative purposes, possibly
housing statues or offerings to deities.
4. Intersections and
Tetrapylons
The Colonnaded Street intersects with two major east-west
streets (decumani) at right angles, creating a grid-like urban layout
typical of Roman cities. These intersections are marked by tetrapylons,
monumental gateways with four arches, which served as both decorative
landmarks and functional traffic dividers.
The North Tetrapylon, near
the North Gate, and the South Tetrapylon, closer to the Oval Plaza, are
notable for their architectural elegance. The South Tetrapylon, in
particular, is well-preserved and features intricate carvings,
highlighting its role as a ceremonial focal point.
These
intersections connected the Cardo to other key sites, such as the Temple
of Artemis, the South Theater, and the Nymphaeum (a monumental public
fountain).
5. Associated Structures
The street is lined with
significant buildings that reflect its central role in Gerasa’s civic
life:
Oval Plaza: At the southern end, the Cardo opens into the Oval
Plaza, a large elliptical forum (90 x 80 meters) surrounded by 56 Ionic
columns. This plaza was a gathering place for markets, public speeches,
and festivals.
Nymphaeum: A beautifully preserved public fountain,
dedicated to the nymphs, lies along the western side of the street. Its
ornate facade, with niches for statues and a large basin, provided water
and added to the street’s aesthetic appeal.
Propylaeum: Near the
Temple of Artemis, a grand gateway (propylaeum) connects the Cardo to
the sacred precinct, underscoring the street’s role in religious
processions.
The Colonnaded Street was far more than a roadway; it was the beating
heart of Gerasa’s economic, social, and cultural life. Its multifaceted
roles included:
Commercial Hub: The porticos and shops along the
sidewalks were bustling with activity. Merchants sold goods such as
olive oil, wine, pottery, and imported luxuries from across the Roman
Empire. The street’s proximity to trade routes linking the Mediterranean
to the Arabian Peninsula made it a vital commercial artery.
Social
Space: The shaded porticos and open plazas were gathering spots for
residents, where they discussed politics, philosophy, or daily affairs.
The street’s design encouraged social interaction, with benches and
public spaces fostering a sense of community.
Ceremonial Route: The
Cardo was used for religious and civic processions, particularly during
festivals honoring deities like Artemis, the city’s patron goddess. Its
monumental scale and alignment with sacred sites made it ideal for such
events.
Administrative Center: The street’s proximity to public
buildings, such as the macellum (market) and administrative offices,
meant it was a hub for governance and civic activities.
The street’s
design also reflected Roman social hierarchies. Wealthy elites likely
used the sidewalks and porticos, while lower classes and carts occupied
the central pavement. The presence of statues, inscriptions, and
decorative elements suggests that the street was a showcase of civic
pride and imperial loyalty, with dedications to emperors like Trajan and
Hadrian.
The Colonnaded Street is exceptionally well-preserved, thanks to
Jerash’s gradual abandonment after the 8th century CE, when earthquakes
and shifting trade routes led to its decline. Buried under sand for
centuries, the street was rediscovered and excavated in the 19th and
20th centuries, with ongoing restoration efforts by Jordanian
authorities and international teams.
Current State: Many of the
limestone slabs, columns, and associated structures remain intact,
though some sections have been restored or reconstructed. The ruts in
the pavement, weathered columns, and surviving inscriptions provide an
authentic sense of the street’s ancient use.
Restoration: Modern
interventions have focused on stabilizing columns, repaving damaged
sections, and protecting the drainage system. Some columns have been
re-erected, but care has been taken to preserve the site’s authenticity.
Visitor Experience: Today, visitors can walk the entire length of the
street, from the North Gate to the Oval Plaza, experiencing its scale
and grandeur. The surrounding ruins, including the Nymphaeum and
tetrapylons, enhance the immersive experience, making it feel like
stepping into a living Roman city.
The Colonnaded Street is a testament to the sophistication of Roman
urban planning and the cultural richness of the Decapolis. Its key
significance includes:
Architectural Mastery: The street
exemplifies Roman engineering, with its precise construction, durable
materials, and integration of aesthetic and functional elements. The
Corinthian columns, in particular, reflect the empire’s architectural
opulence.
Urban Planning: The Cardo’s grid layout, drainage system,
and integration with public spaces highlight the Romans’ advanced
approach to city design, prioritizing accessibility, hygiene, and civic
pride.
Cultural Crossroads: Jerash’s location made it a melting pot
of Greco-Roman, Nabataean, and local Semitic influences. The Colonnaded
Street, as a commercial and social hub, facilitated this cultural
exchange, evident in its art, inscriptions, and architecture.
Touristic and Scholarly Value: As part of the Jerash Archaeological
Site, a UNESCO World Heritage Site candidate, the street draws thousands
of tourists and researchers annually. Its preservation offers insights
into Roman urban life, trade, and governance.
The Colonnaded Street remains a highlight of Jerash, often described
by visitors as awe-inspiring for its scale and historical resonance.
Recent posts on X (as of my last data) frequently highlight its
photogenic quality, with travelers sharing images of the sun setting
behind the columns or the street’s perspective view toward the Oval
Plaza. Visitors note the site’s accessibility, with clear pathways and
informative signage, though some recommend early morning visits to avoid
crowds and heat.
For those planning a visit, the street is part
of the broader Jerash ruins, accessible via a single entry ticket
(around 10 JOD, or $14 USD, as of recent web data). Guided tours are
available, offering deeper insights into the street’s history and
context. The Jerash Festival, held annually, sometimes uses the
Colonnaded Street as a backdrop for cultural performances, adding a
modern layer to its ancient legacy.