Location: Jerash Governorate
Tel: 635 1272 (info)
Hours: Oct-Apr: 8am- 4pm May-Sep: 8am - 7pm
Jerash, located in northern Jordan approximately 48 kilometers north of Amman and 20 kilometers south of Irbid, is one of the world’s best-preserved Greco-Roman cities and a premier archaeological site. Known as Gerasa in antiquity, it was a prominent member of the Decapolis, a league of ten Hellenistic cities under Roman rule. Situated in the fertile Gilead Hills at an elevation of 600 meters, Jerash spans 800,000 square meters and features monumental architecture, including colonnaded streets, theaters, temples, and arches. Today, it is Jordan’s second-most visited tourist destination after Petra, drawing over 250,000 visitors annually. Beyond its ruins, modern Jerash is a vibrant city of ~50,000 residents, blending ancient heritage with contemporary life.
Ancient Origins
Jerash’s history spans over 6,500 years, rooted in
its strategic location on trade routes connecting the Mediterranean,
Mesopotamia, and Arabia:
Neolithic Period (c. 4500 BCE): Early
settlements near the Wadi Jerash spring indicate agricultural activity,
with flint tools and pottery uncovered.
Bronze and Iron Ages (c.
3000–539 BCE): The area was part of the Ammonite kingdom, with Tell
Jerash showing evidence of fortified villages. Biblical Gilead,
encompassing Jerash, appears in narratives like Judges 11.
Hellenistic Period (333–63 BCE): Founded or refounded by Seleucid
rulers, possibly under Antiochus IV, Gerasa (meaning “settlement of the
old”) emerged as a Hellenistic town. Alexander the Great’s conquests
brought Greek culture, evidenced by early temples and coinage.
Roman
Period (63 BCE–330 CE): After Pompey’s conquest, Gerasa joined the
Decapolis, flourishing under Roman rule. The 1st–2nd centuries CE saw
monumental construction, including the Arch of Hadrian, South Theater,
and Cardo Maximus. Gerasa’s wealth came from trade (spices, incense) and
agriculture (olives, wheat), with a population peaking at 20,000–25,000.
Byzantine Period (330–636 CE): Christianity transformed Gerasa into a
bishopric, with 15 churches built, featuring intricate mosaics. The city
remained prosperous, though its walls were fortified against Sassanid
threats.
Islamic Period (636–1516 CE): After the Battle of Yarmouk
(636 CE), Gerasa, renamed Jerash, became a regional center under the
Umayyads. Mosques and markets coexisted with churches, but earthquakes
in 659 and 749 CE caused significant damage, reducing its size.
Crusader and Mamluk Periods (1099–1516): Jerash was briefly occupied by
Crusaders, with a small castle built (now lost). Mamluks used it as a
minor outpost, but the city was largely abandoned by the 13th century.
Ottoman Period (1516–1918): Jerash was resettled by Circassian and
Chechen refugees in the 1870s, who built stone houses near the ruins.
The modern town grew around the ancient site, with olive groves and
orchards.
Modern History: Excavations began in the 1920s under
British and Jordanian archaeologists, accelerating after Jordan’s
independence (1946). UNESCO listed Jerash as a tentative World Heritage
Site in 1984, and restoration continues today.
Jerash’s ruins, covering ~70 hectares, are exceptionally preserved due
to their burial under sediment after 8th-century earthquakes, protecting
them from looting and erosion. Key sites include:
Hadrian's
Arch (129 CE): A 11-meter-high triple arch at the city’s
southern entrance, built for Emperor Hadrian’s visit. Its ornate
Corinthian columns and inscriptions are iconic.
Hippodrome: A
245-meter-long stadium for chariot races, seating 15,000. Partially
restored, it hosts reenactments like the Roman Army and Chariot
Experience (RACE).
South Theater (90–92 CE): A 3,000-seat theater
with superb acoustics, hosting the Jerash Festival. Its upper tiers
offer views of the Oval Plaza.
North Theatre
(165 CE): Smaller (1,600 seats), used for civic meetings and
performances, with restored mosaics and columns.
Oval Plaza (Forum):
A 90x80-meter plaza surrounded by 56 Ionic columns, connecting the Cardo
to the Temple of Zeus. Its elliptical shape is unique in Roman
architecture.
Cardo Maximus: A 800-meter colonnaded street lined with
500 columns, shops, and side streets (decumani). Ancient wheel ruts and
manholes for a sewer system are visible.
Temple of Artemis (150 CE): Dedicated
to Gerasa’s patron goddess, this hilltop complex features 12 Corinthian
columns and a massive altar. Its precinct housed workshops and markets.
Temple of
Zeus (162 CE): Overlooking the Oval Plaza, with a large
altar and restored columns, offering panoramic views.
Nymphaeum (191
CE): A decorative fountain with a two-story facade, adorned with
lion-head spouts and marble cladding, fed by an aqueduct.
Macellum: A
food market with octagonal courtyards, showcasing Roman urban planning.
Byzantine Churches: Over 15 churches, including the Cathedral (4th
century) and Church of St. Cosmos and Damian (6th century), with
colorful mosaics depicting animals and geometric patterns.
Umayyad
Mosque: A small mosque near the South Decumanus, reflecting early
Islamic presence.
Artisan Village: Excavations have revealed
Roman-era potters’ kilns and glass-blowing workshops, indicating
Gerasa’s industrial role.
The Jerash Archaeological Museum, near the
South Gate, displays artifacts like mosaics, statues, and coins, open
8:00 AM–4:00 PM (JOD 1 entry).
Jerash’s cultural heritage blends Greco-Roman, Byzantine, Islamic, and
modern Jordanian elements:
Greco-Roman Legacy: Gerasa’s
architecture, with its Corinthian and Ionic columns, reflects
Hellenistic urban ideals, while theaters and festivals highlight Roman
entertainment culture.
Byzantine Christianity: Mosaics and churches
underscore Jerash’s role as a Christian center, with inscriptions
honoring bishops and donors.
Islamic Influence: Umayyad mosques and
houses show continuity of urban life, with Arabic inscriptions on reused
Roman stones.
Modern Jordanian Culture: The Circassian and Chechen
communities, settled in the 19th century, maintain traditions like dabke
dance and shashlik (grilled meat). Modern Jerash hosts Bedouin and Arab
families, with souqs selling olives, za’atar, and crafts.
Jerash
Festival of Culture and Arts: Held annually in July, this 10-day event
in the South Theater features Arab music (e.g., Omar Al-Abdallat),
poetry, ballet, and theater, attracting ~20,000 visitors. It’s one of
Jordan’s largest cultural events.
Local Traditions
Cuisine:
Jerash is known for mansaf (lamb with yogurt sauce), falafel, and
knafeh, available at restaurants like Artemis Restaurant or street
stalls near the souq.
Crafts: Local artisans produce olive-wood
carvings, embroidered textiles, and pottery, sold at the Artisan Market
near Hadrian’s Arch.
Community Life: The town’s weekly Friday market
and religious festivals (e.g., Eid al-Fitr, Christmas for the Christian
minority) foster a tight-knit community.
Modern Jerash is a small but bustling city in the Jerash
Governorate (pop. ~270,000), balancing tourism with
agriculture and small-scale industry:
Tourism: Jerash
generates ~10% of Jordan’s tourism revenue, with the ruins
as the main draw. The Jordan Pass (JOD 70–80) includes
entry, reducing costs for multi-site visits.
Agriculture:
The governorate produces 20% of Jordan’s olives, plus figs,
grapes, and wheat, irrigated by springs and the Zarqa River.
Olive oil is a key export.
Industry: Small factories
produce textiles and food products, with the nearby
Al-Hassan Industrial Estate (in Irbid) providing additional
jobs.
Urban Development: Jerash has expanded with modern
housing, schools, and a hospital (Jerash Government
Hospital). The Greater Jerash Municipality manages
conservation, ensuring the ruins remain unencroached by
urban sprawl.
Water Scarcity: Jerash
relies on groundwater and the Zarqa River, with agriculture
consuming 65% of the governorate’s 50 million cubic meters
annually. Rationing occurs in summer.
Refugee Impact:
~30,000 Syrian refugees (2023 estimate) strain resources,
though they contribute to the labor market and cultural
diversity.
Site Preservation: Weathering, earthquakes,
and tourist footfall threaten the ruins. The Jordanian
Department of Antiquities and UNESCO fund restoration, but
funding gaps persist.
Economic Dependence: Tourism’s
seasonality (peaking in spring/autumn) and regional
instability (e.g., Syria conflict) affect visitor numbers,
impacting local businesses.
Visitor Experience
Jerash is a must-visit for history enthusiasts, offering a
walkable archaeological park, vibrant modern town, and
proximity to northern Jordan’s attractions.
Jerash Archaeological Site:
Highlights:
Arch of Hadrian, Oval Plaza, Cardo Maximus, South Theater,
Temple of Artemis, and Nymphaeum are must-sees. The site
takes 2–4 hours to explore fully.
Roman Army and Chariot
Experience (RACE): Daily shows (except Tuesdays) at the
Hippodrome feature gladiator battles and chariot races (JOD
12 extra).
Jerash Archaeological Museum: Near the South
Gate, it displays statues, mosaics, and coins, providing
context for the ruins.
Modern Jerash:
Souq: A lively
market on Al-Sharq Street sells spices, olives, and
handicrafts. Try knafeh at Abu Jbara or shawarma at Green
Valley.
Visitor Centre: At the South Gate, it offers
maps, guides, and a small café, open 8:00 AM–5:00 PM.
Nearby Sites:
Dibeen Forest Reserve (20 km south,
25-minute drive): Pine-oak forest trails and eco-chalets,
ideal for nature lovers.
Ajloun Castle (20 km west,
30-minute drive): A 12th-century Ayyubid fortress with views
of the Jordan Valley.
Irbid (20 km north, 25-minute
drive): Jordan’s educational hub with museums and Beit Ras
ruins.
Umm Qais (40 km north, 50-minute drive): Decapolis
city with Roman theaters and Golan Heights vistas.
Access: Jerash is a 45-minute drive from Amman via Route 35 or a
20-minute bus from Irbid (JOD 1). Taxis from Amman cost ~JOD 15–20.
Within Jerash, walking or taxis (JOD 1–3) suffice.
Hours and
Admission: The archaeological site is open daily, 8:00 AM–6:00 PM
(winter: 8:00 AM–4:00 PM). Entry is JOD 10, included in the Jordan Pass.
Guided tours (JOD 20–30) are available at the Visitor Centre.
Accommodation: Options include budget hotels (e.g., Hadrian’s Gate
Hotel, JOD 25–40/night) and guesthouses (e.g., Olive Branch Hotel, JOD
40–60). For luxury, Amman’s 5-star hotels are 45 minutes away. Airbnb
offers local homes.
Dining: Restaurants near the ruins (e.g.,
Lebanese House, Artemis) serve mezze, mansaf, and grills (JOD 5–15).
Street food in the souq is cheaper (JOD 1–3).
Best Time to Visit:
Spring (March–May) for mild weather (15–25°C) and wildflowers; autumn
(September–November) for the Jerash Festival and cooler hikes. Summer
(June–August) is hot (up to 35°C), while winter (December–February)
brings rain and occasional frost.
Tips: Wear comfortable shoes for
uneven cobblestones, bring water and sunscreen, and visit early to avoid
crowds. Combine with Dibeen or Ajloun for a day trip. Respect local
customs (modest dress) in the modern town.
Positive: Travelers rave about Jerash’s “Pompeii-like” preservation,
with the Cardo and theaters evoking Roman life. The RACE show and
festival performances are highlights. Locals are welcoming, and the
site’s compactness suits all ages.
Challenges: Some note limited
signage, requiring guides for context, and summer heat, which demands
early visits. The modern town’s quieter vibe may disappoint those
expecting Amman’s buzz. Littering near the souq is a minor issue,
addressed by municipal cleanups.
Cultural Preservation: The Jordanian Department of Antiquities and
RSCN promote Jerash’s heritage through restoration and festivals. The
Jerash Heritage Company manages the site, ensuring tourist facilities
align with UNESCO standards.
Community Engagement: Over 200 local
families work in tourism, guiding, and crafts, with women’s cooperatives
producing embroidery and pottery. The Circassian community hosts
cultural events, like Adyghe dance performances.
Tourism Impact:
Jerash supports ~5,000 jobs, from guides to vendors, but relies on
stable regional politics. The 2015–2019 Syria crisis reduced visitors,
though numbers have rebounded to pre-crisis levels (~260,000 in 2023).
Global Recognition: Jerash’s tentative UNESCO status and inclusion in
the Decapolis network highlight its universal value. Collaborations with
institutions like Yale and the British Museum support excavations and
conservation.
Environmental Concerns: Water scarcity affects
agriculture, with the Zarqa River’s flow reduced by upstream damming.
The RSCN’s nearby Dibeen Forest Reserve promotes sustainable land use to
mitigate desertification.