Location: Amman Citadel, Amman
The Byzantine Basilica at the Amman Citadel in Amman, Jordan, is a significant archaeological site that offers a window into the Christian heritage of the region during the Byzantine period (4th–7th centuries CE). Located on Jebel Al-Qala’a (Citadel Hill), the highest point in Amman at approximately 850 meters above sea level, the basilica is part of the Amman Citadel, an open-air museum that includes remains from the Ammonite, Roman, Byzantine, and Umayyad periods. Though heavily damaged by earthquakes and time, the basilica’s ruins provide valuable insights into Byzantine architecture, religious practices, and the cultural transitions in Jordan.
The Byzantine Basilica is dated to the 6th or possibly 7th century
CE, during the height of Byzantine influence in Jordan, then part of the
Provincia Arabia within the Eastern Roman (Byzantine) Empire. This
period, following Emperor Constantine I’s establishment of Christianity
as the state religion in 324 CE, saw a profound transformation in
Jordan’s urban and religious landscape. Amman, known as Philadelphia
during classical antiquity, was a key city in the Decapolis, a league of
Greco-Roman cities, and remained significant under Byzantine rule due to
its strategic location and economic prosperity.
The basilica was
constructed during a time of intense church-building activity in Jordan,
particularly under Emperor Justinian I (r. 527–565 CE), when
basilica-style churches with semicircular apses and mosaic floors became
widespread. The basilica likely served as a central place of worship for
Amman’s Christian community, which flourished alongside the region’s
agricultural and trade-based economy, supported by the fertile Hawran
plains and trade routes.
The basilica’s decline began with a
series of disasters in the 5th and 6th centuries, including earthquakes
and the plague of 541–542 CE, which weakened Byzantine society. The
Persian invasion of 614 CE and the subsequent Islamic conquests,
culminating in the Battle of Yarmouk in 636 CE, marked the end of
Byzantine control in Jordan. By the 7th century, the basilica was likely
abandoned as the region transitioned to Muslim rule, with some sources
suggesting that Christians were forced to leave or convert, though this
narrative may oversimplify the complex cultural shifts of the period.
The Byzantine Basilica at the Amman Citadel is a modest structure
compared to larger Byzantine churches in Jordan, such as those in Jerash
or Umm ar-Rasas, but it adheres to the standard basilica plan typical of
early Christian architecture. Despite its small size, the ruins suggest
a once-majestic building, with elements reused from earlier Roman
structures, reflecting the Byzantine practice of repurposing materials.
Below are the key architectural features:
1. Layout and Plan
Basilica Plan: The basilica follows the classic early Christian basilica
layout, consisting of a central nave flanked by two side aisles,
separated by rows of columns. This design, standardized during the
Byzantine period, facilitated large congregations and liturgical
processions.
Dimensions: The basilica is relatively small, measuring
approximately 9–10 meters in width and 15–20 meters in length, though
exact dimensions vary slightly across sources. Its compact size suggests
it served a modest congregation, possibly a few dozen worshippers at a
time.
Semicircular Apse: At the eastern end, a semicircular apse
served as the focal point for the altar, a common feature in Byzantine
churches oriented toward the east for liturgical purposes. The apse is
partially reconstructed, with a chancel screen separating it from the
nave, indicating a space reserved for clergy.
2. Columns and
Capitals
Corinthian Columns: The nave is flanked by two rows of
Corinthian columns, some of which have been restored to their original
positions during archaeological excavations. These columns, originally
supporting a higher roof over the nave, are notable for their Corinthian
capitals decorated with acanthus leaves, a style borrowed from classical
Greco-Roman architecture.
Reused Materials: Many of the columns and
capitals were taken from the nearby Temple of Hercules, a Roman
structure built in the 2nd century CE. This reuse of materials,
including marble drums and architectural elements, reflects the
Byzantine practice of recycling pagan structures for Christian purposes,
a common practice in Jordan as seen in Jerash’s Cathedral of St. Mary.
Damage and Restoration: Earthquakes have toppled many columns, and some
lie broken at the site. Archaeological efforts have re-erected several
columns, providing a partial sense of the basilica’s original
appearance.
3. Mosaic Floor
Mosaic-Paved Nave: The nave
features a mosaic floor, a hallmark of Byzantine ecclesiastical
architecture in Jordan. These mosaics, now covered for protection,
likely included geometric patterns, floral motifs, or religious scenes,
similar to those found in Madaba’s Map of the Holy Land or Umm
ar-Rasas’s Church of St. Stephen. The mosaics’ preservation is limited,
and they are described as “dusty” in some accounts, suggesting exposure
to the elements.
Cultural Significance: Mosaics were a major artistic
expression in Byzantine Jordan, adorning both religious and secular
buildings. The basilica’s mosaics, though not as elaborate as those in
Madaba or Petra, reflect the region’s thriving mosaic-making tradition,
with centers in Amman, Jerash, and Madaba.
4. Additional
Structures
Rectangular Rooms: Adjacent to the aisles are rectangular
rooms, some of which may have been added by the Umayyads in the 7th–8th
centuries. These rooms could have served as chapels, storage spaces, or
administrative areas, indicating the site’s continued use after the
Islamic conquest.
Chancel Screen: A low wall or screen separated the
apse from the nave, a feature designed to demarcate sacred space for the
clergy, typical of Byzantine church design.
Greek Inscriptions: Some
columns bear Greek inscriptions, likely commemorative or dedicatory,
reflecting the linguistic and cultural influence of the Byzantine Empire
in Philadelphia.
5. Construction Materials
The basilica was
built primarily from limestone and marble, with reused elements from the
Temple of Hercules. The use of local stone aligns with Jordanian
architectural traditions, while the incorporation of Roman materials
highlights the continuity between Roman and Byzantine periods.
The
flagstone-paved aisles contrast with the mosaic nave, suggesting a
functional distinction between the central worship area and the side
aisles.
The Byzantine Basilica at the Amman Citadel is a testament to the
Christianization of Jordan during the Byzantine period and the region’s
role as a cultural and religious crossroads. Its significance can be
understood through several lenses:
Religious Transformation: The
basilica reflects the shift from paganism to Christianity under
Byzantine rule. Built near the Roman Temple of Hercules, it symbolizes
the repurposing of pagan sites for Christian worship, a common practice
in Jordan, as seen in Jerash’s conversion of the Temple of Dionysus into
a cathedral.
Byzantine Prosperity: The basilica was constructed
during a period of economic and demographic growth in Jordan, driven by
agriculture (wheat, barley, olives, and vines) and trade. The presence
of mosaics and reused Roman materials indicates the wealth and
craftsmanship available in Philadelphia.
Cultural Continuity: The
reuse of Roman columns and the basilica’s integration into the Citadel,
later used by the Umayyads, highlight the continuity of Amman as a
significant urban center across empires. The rectangular rooms added by
the Umayyads suggest the site’s adaptation to Islamic governance.
Archaeological Value: The basilica contributes to our understanding of
Byzantine ecclesiastical architecture in Jordan, complementing
better-preserved sites like Umm ar-Rasas (a UNESCO World Heritage Site)
and Madaba. Its mosaics, though covered, are part of Jordan’s rich
mosaic tradition, which includes the famous Madaba Map.
Historical
Transition: The basilica’s abandonment in the 7th century marks the
transition from Byzantine to Islamic rule in Jordan. The Islamic
conquests, including the Battle of Mutah (629 CE) and Battle of Yarmouk
(636 CE), reshaped the region’s religious and political landscape, with
Amman reverting to its Semitic name, Ammon.
The basilica’s modest
size compared to larger churches in Jerash or Umm ar-Rasas suggests it
was a local rather than regional center, but its location within the
Citadel underscores its importance to Amman’s Christian community.
The Byzantine Basilica is in a ruined state, with significant damage
caused by earthquakes and neglect over centuries. Key aspects of its
current condition include:
Preserved Elements: The most visible
remains are the semicircular apse, re-erected Corinthian columns, and
flagstone aisles. The mosaic floor in the nave is covered for
protection, limiting visibility but preserving the delicate artwork.
Damage: Earthquakes in the 5th and 6th centuries, common in Greater
Syria, destroyed much of the basilica, toppling columns and damaging the
roof and walls. The site’s exposure to the elements has further eroded
the mosaics and stonework.
Restoration: Archaeological excavations
since the 1920s, involving Italian, British, French, Spanish, and
Jordanian teams, have partially restored the basilica. Re-erected
columns and the reconstructed apse provide a sense of the original
layout, though much of the site remains unexcavated.
Integration with
Citadel: The basilica is part of the broader Amman Citadel, alongside
the Temple of Hercules, Umayyad Palace, and Jordan Archaeological Museum
(now partially relocated to the Jordan Museum). Its proximity to these
sites enhances its appeal as part of a historical complex.
The
basilica’s ruins are modest compared to the better-preserved Roman
Theatre below the Citadel or the churches in Jerash, but they remain a
popular photo spot due to their scenic location and the panoramic views
of Amman from the Citadel.
Visiting the Byzantine Basilica offers a chance to explore a
lesser-known aspect of Amman’s history within the iconic Amman Citadel.
Here’s what visitors can expect:
Duration of Visit: Exploring the
basilica takes 15–30 minutes, as the ruins are compact. A full visit to
the Citadel, including the Temple of Hercules, Umayyad Palace, and
Jordan Archaeological Museum, typically takes 1–2 hours.
Accessibility: The basilica is located within the Amman Citadel on Jebel
Al-Qala’a, accessible by a short but steep walk from downtown Amman or
by taxi (1–2 JOD). The Citadel is a 5–10-minute drive from the Roman
Theatre or Hashemite Plaza.
Entry Requirements:
Admission:
Entry to the Citadel costs 2 JOD (~2.82 USD) for tourists, free with the
Jordan Pass. Jordanian residents pay a reduced fee (~0.25 JOD).
Hours: Open Saturday–Thursday, 8:00 AM–7:00 PM (April–September) or 8:00
AM–4:00 PM (October–March); Fridays, 10:00 AM–4:00 PM year-round. Check
with the Jordan Tourism Board for updates.
Highlights:
Corinthian
Columns: The re-erected columns with acanthus-leaf capitals are a focal
point, offering a glimpse of Byzantine craftsmanship and Roman reuse.
Apse and Nave: The partially reconstructed apse and nave layout provide
a sense of the basilica’s original function as a Christian worship
space.
Citadel Views: The basilica’s location offers stunning
panoramic views of Amman, including the Roman Theatre and downtown
skyline, making it a popular photo spot.
Proximity to Other Sites:
The basilica is steps from the Temple of Hercules, Umayyad Palace, and
Jordan Archaeological Museum, which houses artifacts like the Ain Ghazal
statues (though some, like the Dead Sea Scrolls, have moved to the
Jordan Museum).
Atmosphere: The Citadel is an open-air site with a
quiet, reflective ambiance, though it can be busy with tourists and
school groups. The basilica’s ruins are less crowded than the Temple of
Hercules, offering a peaceful experience.
Photography: Photography is
permitted, and the basilica’s columns and apse are photogenic,
especially at sunrise or sunset when the light enhances the stonework
and city views.
Guided Tours: On-site signage is limited, so a guide
(available through tour operators or the Citadel’s visitor center) can
provide deeper context about the basilica’s history and architecture.
Self-guided audio tours or apps like GPSmyCity offer additional
information.
Nearby Attractions:
Temple of Hercules (within
Citadel): A 2nd-century Roman temple with massive columns.
Umayyad
Palace (within Citadel): An 8th-century Islamic complex with a cistern
and mosque.
Jordan Archaeological Museum (within Citadel): Displays
artifacts from Jordan’s history, though some have moved to the Jordan
Museum.
Roman Theatre (1 km downhill): A 6,000-seat amphitheater from
the 2nd century CE.
Roman Nymphaeum (1.5 km): A public fountain from
191 CE.
Downtown Amman (Al-Balad) (1–2 km): Vibrant markets, the
Grand Husseini Mosque, and cafes.
Limitations:
The basilica’s
small size and ruined state may disappoint visitors expecting grander
structures like those in Jerash or Petra.
The covered mosaics are not
visible, limiting the artistic experience compared to sites like Madaba.
Limited signage means casual visitors may miss the basilica’s historical
context without a guide or prior research.
The Citadel’s exposed
location can be hot and windy, so sun protection and water are
essential.
Location: Byzantine Basilica, Amman Citadel, Jabal Al-Qala’a, K. Ali
Ben Al-Hussein St., Amman, Jordan.
Opening Hours: Saturday–Thursday,
8:00 AM–7:00 PM (April–September); 8:00 AM–4:00 PM (October–March);
Fridays, 10:00 AM–4:00 PM. Confirm with the Jordan Tourism Board
(www.visitjordan.com) for updates.
Admission: 2 JOD (~2.82 USD) for
the Citadel, free with the Jordan Pass. Reduced rates for Jordanian
residents.
Getting There:
On Foot: A steep 10–15-minute walk
from downtown Amman (e.g., Roman Theatre).
By Taxi/Rideshare: Costs
1–2 JOD from downtown. Uber or Careem are widely available.
By Car:
Limited parking near the Citadel entrance.
Public Transport: Buses or
shared taxis from the Raghdan Tourist Terminal serve the area.
Tips for Visitors:
Visit early morning or late afternoon for cooler
temperatures and better lighting for photos.
Wear comfortable shoes
for the uneven terrain and steep paths.
Bring water, sunscreen, and a
hat, as the Citadel is exposed to the elements.
Hire a guide or use
an audio tour for deeper historical context, as signage is minimal.
Combine with the Roman Theatre and Nymphaeum for a half-day itinerary.
Contact: Check the Jordan Tourism Board website (www.visitjordan.com) or
contact the Citadel administration via local tourism offices for
updates.
The Byzantine Basilica at the Amman Citadel is a valuable historical
site, but its modest size and state of ruin make it less striking than
other Byzantine churches in Jordan, such as the Church of St. Stephen in
Umm ar-Rasas or the Madaba Map in St. George’s Church. The covered
mosaics and limited interpretive materials can leave visitors wanting
more, particularly those unfamiliar with Byzantine architecture.
Compared to the Citadel’s Temple of Hercules or Umayyad Palace, which
are more visually imposing, the basilica may feel understated.
However, its significance lies in its context within the Citadel, which
spans multiple civilizations, and its role in illustrating the
Christianization of Amman. The reuse of Roman materials and the addition
of Umayyad rooms highlight the site’s adaptability across cultures,
making it a microcosm of Jordan’s layered history. For visitors with a
keen interest in Byzantine or early Christian history, the basilica is a
rewarding stop, but casual tourists may find it overshadowed by the
Citadel’s other attractions or more intact sites like Jerash.
The
narrative of the basilica’s abandonment due to forced conversions during
the Islamic conquests, as suggested by some sources, should be
approached critically. Historical evidence indicates a more gradual
transition, with Christian communities persisting in Jordan under
Umayyad rule, as seen in the continued use of churches in Madaba and Umm
ar-Rasas. This complexity adds depth to the basilica’s story but is not
well-represented in on-site materials.