Location: Amman Citadel, Amman
The Umayyad Open Cistern, located at the Amman Citadel on Jebel Al-Qala’a in Amman, Jordan, is a remarkable example of early Islamic engineering and water management from the Umayyad period (661–750 CE). Often referred to as the "Birka" or "Shrij" in Arabic, this large, circular reservoir was constructed around 730 CE to supply water to the Umayyad palatial complex, including baths, latrines, and other facilities. Situated to the east of the Umayyad Palace, the cistern is one of the best-preserved structures at the Citadel, offering insight into the sophisticated hydraulic systems of the Umayyad dynasty.
The Umayyad Open Cistern was built during the Umayyad Caliphate, a
period when Amman, then known as Philadelphia, served as a provincial
capital within the vast Islamic empire that stretched from Spain to
Central Asia. The Citadel, perched on Jebel Al-Qala’a, was a strategic
and administrative center, housing the Umayyad Palace, a governor’s
residence, and other structures. Constructed around 730 CE, the cistern
was part of a broader water management system designed to support the
palace’s needs in a semi-arid region where water scarcity was a constant
challenge.
The Umayyads, the first great Muslim dynasty (661–750
CE), were renowned for their architectural and engineering innovations,
drawing on Roman, Byzantine, and Persian traditions. The cistern’s
design reflects this synthesis, incorporating elements of earlier Roman
cisterns, such as those found in Petra and Jerash, while adapting them
to Islamic administrative needs. The cistern was critical to the
palace’s operations, supplying water for domestic use, hygiene, and
possibly small-scale irrigation. Its construction predates the
devastating earthquake of 749 CE, which destroyed much of the Umayyad
complex, though the cistern’s robust design ensured its survival.
The cistern’s historical significance lies in its role as a lifeline
for the Citadel’s inhabitants, demonstrating the Umayyads’ ability to
adapt advanced water technologies to their urban centers. After the
Umayyad period, the Citadel continued to be used by the Abbasids, who
rebuilt parts of the complex, but the cistern remained a functional
component, highlighting its enduring utility.
The Umayyad Open Cistern is a circular, uncovered reservoir
engineered to collect and store rainwater efficiently. Its design is
both functional and monumental, reflecting the Umayyads’ engineering
prowess. Below are the key architectural features, based on
archaeological descriptions and visitor accounts:
1. Structure
and Dimensions
Shape and Size: The cistern is circular, with a
diameter of 17.5 meters (approximately 58 feet) and a depth of 5–6
meters (16–20 feet). Its capacity is estimated at 1,370 cubic meters
(approximately 48,000 cubic feet or 360,000 gallons), making it a
substantial water storage facility for the palace complex.
Walls: The
stone walls are up to 2.5 meters thick (8 feet) and constructed from
local limestone, a durable material widely used in Jordanian
architecture. The thickness ensured structural stability and minimized
water loss.
Sloped Floor: The cistern’s floor is sloped toward the
center, allowing sediment and silt to settle at the bottom, which
facilitated cleaning and maintenance. This design improved water quality
by separating debris from the stored water.
2. Waterproofing
Hydraulic Plaster: The interior surface was coated with a thick layer of
hydraulic plaster, a waterproof material that prevented leakage. Traces
of this ancient plaster are still visible near the staircase, testifying
to the Umayyads’ advanced knowledge of hydraulic engineering.
Construction Techniques: The plaster was likely a lime-based mixture,
similar to Roman and Byzantine practices, which hardened into a durable,
watertight seal. This technique was common in the region, as seen in
cisterns at Petra and Quseir Amra.
3. Water Collection System
Inlet Channels: The cistern was fed by rainwater diverted from the roofs
of surrounding buildings and paved surfaces through channels entering
from the north and west sides. This system maximized the capture of
seasonal rainfall, critical in Amman’s semi-arid climate.
Central
Column: A stone column in the center, now reduced to a stump, served as
a depth gauge to measure water levels. This practical feature allowed
administrators to monitor the cistern’s capacity.
Adjacent Well: A
deep well to the north may have supplemented the cistern, possibly
feeding water to the nearby Umayyad bath complex. This suggests an
integrated water management system.
4. Access and Maintenance
Stone Staircase: A staircase along the western wall provides access to
the cistern’s interior, enabling workers to clean out silt and debris
and prepare the cistern for the rainy season. The steps are still
intact, allowing visitors to appreciate the structure’s scale.
Discharge Shaft: A hole partway up the eastern wall connects to a shaft
that discharged excess water through the Citadel’s fortification wall,
preventing overflow and structural damage.
5. Reused Materials
The cistern incorporates earlier architectural elements, such as
columns, shafts, and capitals from Roman or Byzantine structures, used
as building materials. For example, the central depth-gauge column was
likely repurposed from an older structure, a common Umayyad practice
also seen in the nearby Byzantine Basilica.
6. Architectural
Style
The cistern’s circular design is stylistically related to local
rectangular cisterns but bears a superficial resemblance to Aghlabid
cisterns in Kairouan, Tunisia, suggesting a broader Islamic
architectural influence. However, its construction is firmly rooted in
the Levantine tradition, adapted to the Citadel’s topography.
The use
of thick stone walls and hydraulic plaster aligns with Roman and
Byzantine cisterns, such as those in Jerash and Petra, indicating a
continuity of engineering knowledge.
The Umayyad Open Cistern is a testament to the Umayyads’ ingenuity in
addressing water scarcity, a perennial challenge in Jordan. Its
significance spans several dimensions:
Engineering Innovation:
The cistern demonstrates the Umayyads’ mastery of hydraulic engineering,
blending Roman and Byzantine techniques with Islamic administrative
needs. Its capacity to store 1,370 cubic meters of water ensured the
palace’s self-sufficiency, supporting baths, latrines, and possibly
gardens.
Cultural Synthesis: The reuse of Roman columns and the
adoption of plaster waterproofing reflect the Umayyads’ ability to
integrate pre-Islamic technologies into their architecture, a hallmark
of their rule. This synthesis is also evident in the nearby Umayyad
Palace and Quseir Amra bathhouse.
Water Management in a Semi-Arid
Region: In a region with limited water resources, the cistern was a
critical infrastructure, highlighting the Umayyads’ prioritization of
sustainable water use. This aligns with broader Jordanian traditions, as
seen in Nabataean cisterns at Petra and Roman water systems in Jerash.
Archaeological Value: The cistern’s excellent preservation, compared to
other Citadel structures damaged by the 749 CE earthquake, makes it a
key artifact for studying Umayyad urban planning. Its design informs our
understanding of water systems in Islamic cities, complementing sites
like Quseir Amra and Umm ar-Rasas.
Historical Context: The cistern’s
construction around 730 CE places it at the height of Umayyad power,
just before the dynasty’s collapse in 750 CE. Its survival through
subsequent Abbasid and later periods underscores its enduring utility
and the Citadel’s continuous occupation.
The cistern’s role in
supporting the Umayyad Palace underscores Amman’s importance as a
provincial capital, connecting it to the broader Islamic empire. Its
preservation today, alongside other Citadel structures like the Temple
of Hercules and Byzantine Basilica, highlights Amman’s layered history,
spanning Ammonite, Roman, Byzantine, and Islamic civilizations.
The Umayyad Open Cistern is one of the best-preserved structures at
the Amman Citadel, thanks to its robust construction and minimal
exposure to urban development. Key aspects of its current condition
include:
Preservation: The cistern’s stone walls, staircase, and
plaster lining remain largely intact, with visible traces of the
original hydraulic plaster near the staircase. The central column stump
and discharge shaft are also preserved, providing a clear picture of its
functionality.
Restoration: Archaeological excavations since the
1920s, involving Italian, British, French, Spanish, and Jordanian teams,
have maintained the cistern’s integrity. Since the mid-1990s, the
Jordanian Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities, in partnership with
USAID, has worked to conserve and restore the Citadel, including the
cistern, to enhance its value for tourists.
Environmental Challenges:
The cistern is exposed to the elements, and while the plaster has
preserved much of its waterproofing, weathering and dust accumulation
may affect its appearance. Visitor reviews note its “impressive” and
“mind-boggling” state, but maintenance is ongoing to prevent further
deterioration.
Integration with Citadel: The cistern is part of the
Citadel’s open-air museum, located near the Umayyad Palace and Audience
Hall. Its proximity to these structures enhances its context, though it
is sometimes overshadowed by more visually striking ruins like the
Temple of Hercules.
The cistern’s accessibility and preservation make
it a highlight of the Citadel, though it is not as iconic as the Roman
Theatre or Umayyad Palace dome.
Visiting the Umayyad Open Cistern offers a fascinating glimpse into
Umayyad engineering within the broader context of the Amman Citadel.
Here’s what visitors can expect:
Duration of Visit: Exploring the
cistern takes 10–15 minutes, as it is a single, compact structure. A
full visit to the Citadel, including the Temple of Hercules, Umayyad
Palace, Byzantine Basilica, and Jordan Archaeological Museum, typically
takes 1–2 hours.
Accessibility: The cistern is located within the
Amman Citadel on Jebel Al-Qala’a, accessible by a steep 10–15-minute
walk from downtown Amman or a short taxi ride (1–2 JOD) from the Roman
Theatre. The cistern is near the Audience Hall; from the hall, a narrow
passage leads to the cistern.
Entry Requirements:
Admission:
Entry to the Citadel costs 2 JOD (~2.82 USD) for tourists, free with the
Jordan Pass. Jordanian residents pay ~0.25 JOD.
Hours: Open
Saturday–Thursday, 8:00 AM–7:00 PM (April–September) or 8:00 AM–4:00 PM
(October–March); Fridays, 10:00 AM–4:00 PM. Confirm with the Jordan
Tourism Board
(www.visitjordan.com).[](https://www.memphistours.com/jordan/jordan-travel-guide/amman-attraction/wiki/amman-citadel)
Highlights:
Cistern Structure: The large, circular “well-like”
structure, with its thick walls and staircase, is visually striking.
Visitors can peer into the 6-meter-deep reservoir and see the central
column stump and plaster traces.
Information Board: A signboard next
to the cistern provides detailed information in English and Arabic,
explaining its history, dimensions, and function, including the “rain
harvesting” system and “waterproof plaster.”
Citadel Context: The
cistern’s proximity to the Umayyad Palace and Audience Hall enhances its
historical context, illustrating the palace’s self-contained
infrastructure. The Citadel’s panoramic views of Amman, including the
Roman Theatre, are a bonus.
Atmosphere: The Citadel is an open-air
site with a quiet, reflective ambiance, though it can be busy with
tourists and school groups. The cistern, often described as “impressive”
and “ingenious,” evokes awe for its engineering, with reviews praising
its “mind-boggling” capacity.
Photography: Photography is permitted,
and the cistern’s circular form and staircase make for compelling shots,
especially with the Citadel’s skyline in the background. Morning or late
afternoon light enhances the stone’s texture.
Guided Tours: On-site
signage is informative, but English-speaking guides near the ticket
office ( ~15 JOD/hour) can provide deeper context about the cistern’s
role in Umayyad life. Audio tours or apps like GPSmyCity offer
additional details.
Nearby Attractions:
Temple of Hercules (within Citadel):
A 2nd-century Roman temple with massive columns.
Umayyad Palace
(within Citadel): An 8th-century complex with a domed audience hall.
Byzantine Basilica (within Citadel): A 6th-century church with
Corinthian columns.
Jordan Archaeological Museum (within Citadel):
Houses artifacts like the Ain Ghazal statues (note: some artifacts, like
the Dead Sea Scrolls, are now at the Jordan Museum).
Roman Theatre (1
km downhill): A 6,000-seat amphitheater from the 2nd century CE.
Roman Nymphaeum (1.5 km): A public fountain from 191 CE.
Downtown
Amman (Al-Balad) (1–2 km): Markets, the Grand Husseini Mosque, and
cafes.
Limitations:
The cistern’s exposed nature means it can
be dusty, and the lack of shade requires sun protection.
As a
functional rather than decorative structure, it may be less engaging for
visitors uninterested in engineering or archaeology.
Limited signage
beyond the information board may leave some visitors wanting more
context without a guide.
The Citadel’s steep climb can be challenging
for those with mobility issues, though the cistern itself is easily
accessible once inside.
Location: Umayyad Open Cistern, Amman Citadel, Jabal Al-Qala’a, K.
Ali Ben Al-Hussein St., Amman, Jordan.
Opening Hours:
Saturday–Thursday, 8:00 AM–7:00 PM (April–September); 8:00 AM–4:00 PM
(October–March); Fridays, 10:00 AM–4:00 PM. Confirm with the Jordan
Tourism Board
(www.visitjordan.com).(https://www.memphistours.com/jordan/jordan-travel-guide/amman-attraction/wiki/amman-citadel)
Admission: 2 JOD (~2.82 USD) for the Citadel, free with the Jordan Pass.
Reduced rates for Jordanian residents.
Getting There:
On Foot:
A steep 10–15-minute walk from downtown Amman (e.g., Roman Theatre).
By Taxi/Rideshare: Costs 1–2 JOD from downtown. Uber or Careem are
reliable.
By Car: Limited parking near the Citadel entrance.
Public Transport: Buses or shared taxis from the Raghdan Tourist
Terminal serve the area.
Tips for Visitors:
Visit early
morning or late afternoon for cooler temperatures and better lighting
for photos.
Wear comfortable shoes for the Citadel’s uneven terrain
and steep paths.
Bring water, sunscreen, and a hat, as the site is
exposed to the elements.
Use a guide or audio tour for deeper
historical context, as signage is limited beyond the cistern’s board.
Combine with the Roman Theatre, Nymphaeum, or Jordan Museum for a
half-day itinerary.
Contact: Check the Jordan Tourism Board website
(www.visitjordan.com) or contact the Citadel administration via local
tourism offices for updates.
The Umayyad Open Cistern is a remarkable example of early Islamic
engineering, but its appeal may be niche compared to the Citadel’s more
visually striking structures, such as the Temple of Hercules or Umayyad
Palace dome. Its functional design, while “ingenious” and
“mind-boggling” to some, lacks the decorative elements of sites like
Quseir Amra’s frescoed bathhouse or Madaba’s mosaics, potentially
limiting its draw for casual visitors. The information board provides
valuable details, but the lack of additional interpretive materials or
interactive elements may leave some wanting more context.
The
cistern’s preservation is a testament to Umayyad engineering, but its
exposed state requires ongoing maintenance to combat weathering.
Compared to Roman cisterns in Petra or Jerash, which benefit from more
extensive archaeological documentation, the Umayyad cistern is less
studied, and some sources may overstate its uniqueness by comparing it
to Aghlabid cisterns in Tunisia without sufficient evidence. The
narrative of the Umayyads as the sole innovators should also be
tempered; their water systems built on Roman and Nabataean precedents,
as seen in Petra’s sophisticated channels and cisterns.
For
visitors with an interest in hydraulic engineering or Islamic history,
the cistern is a highlight, but it may be overshadowed by the Citadel’s
broader historical narrative or Amman’s more iconic sites like the Roman
Theatre. Its integration into the Citadel’s open-air museum, however,
ensures it remains a key component of the site’s appeal, particularly
for those exploring Jordan’s layered past.